Application of NASA ERTS-1 satellite imagery in coastal studies

There are no author-identified significant results in this report. Review of ERTS-1 imagery indicates that it contains information of great value in coastal engineering studies. A brief introduction is given to the methods by which imagery is generated, and examples of its application to coastal engineering. Specific applications discussed include study of the movement of coastal and nearshore sediment-laden water masses and information for planning and construction in remote areas of the world

Application of ERTS-1 imagery in coastal studies

The basic ERTS output is four black-and-white photographs presenting the same scene recorded in each multispectral scanner band. Mosaics covering large regions at a 1:250,000 scale can be compiled from these photographs. Office study of the image of each band separately, in combination with other bands, and in conjunction with other available data (navigation charts, tide tables, etc.) permits extraction of data useful in coastal engineering planning and coastal processes studies. Specific examples in which significant information on regional shoreline configuration or nearshore water movements has been obtained from unenhanced ERTS imagery are: (1) tidal inlet configuration; (2) navigation information; and (3) nearshore water movements

New methodology for describing the equilibrium beach profile applied ti teh Valencia's beachs

[EN] Nuevo metodo de determinación de la profundidad de cierre del prfil de playa y su aplicación para ajustar el volumen de arenas de aportación en alimentaciones artificialesAragones, L.; Serra Peris, JC.; Villacampa, Y.; Saval, JM.; Tinoco, H. (2016). New methodology for describing the equilibrium beach profile applied ti teh Valencia's beachs. Geomorphology. 259:1-11. doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2015.06.049S11125

Downscaling Changing Coastlines in a Changing Climate: The Hybrid Approach

Shifts in the frequency of typical meteorological patterns in an ocean basin, over interannual to decadal time scales, cause shifts in the patterns of wave generation. Therefore, ocean basin-scale climate shifts produce shifts in the wave climates affecting the coastlines of the basin. We present a hybrid methodology for downscaling observed (or predicted) climate shifts into local nearshore wave climates and then into the associated coastline responses. A series of statistical analyses translate observed (or predicted) distributions of meteorological states into the deep water wave climate affecting a coastal region and dynamical modeling combined with statistical analyses transform the deep water wave climate into the nearshore wave climate affecting a particular coastline. Finally, dynamical modeling of coastline evolution hindcasts (or predicts) how coastline shapes respond to climate shifts. As a case study, we downscale from meteorological hindcast in the North Atlantic basin since 1870 to the responses of the shape of the coast of the Carolinas, USA. We test the hindcasts using shoreline change rates calculated from historical shorelines, because shifts in coastline shape equate to changes in the alongshore pattern of shoreline change rates from one historical period to another. Although limited by the availability of historical shorelines (and complicated by historical inlet openings), the observations are consistent with the predicted signal of ocean basin-scale climate change. The hybrid downscaling methodology, applied to the output of global climate models, can be used to help forecast future patterns of shoreline change related to future climate change scenarios.This work was partially funded by the “U.S. National Science Foundation, Coupled Natural Human Systems Program.” J. A. A. Antolínez is indebted to the MEC (Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte, Spain) for the funding provided in the FPU (Formación del Profesorado Universitario) studentship (BOE-A-2013-12235). J. A. A. Antolínez and F. J. Méndez acknowledge the support of the Spanish “Ministerio de Economia y Competitividad” under grant BIA2014-59643-R

Multi-timescale morphological modelling of a dune-fronted sandy beach

© 2018 The Authors Medium/long term trends (annual to decadal scale) of beach change are mostly used to make coastal management decisions. However, short term, extreme episodic events (short term) can erode the beach to exceed sustainable erosion thresholds thereby impacting long term trends of coastal change. Therefore, understanding coastal change at short and medium-long term (years to decades) timescales is essential to provide sustainable solutions to beach erosion. In this paper, we investigate and simulate the change of a beach-dune system for a megatidal coastline in the UK at storm timescale and at medium-long term timescale corresponding to sea level rise, in order to assess their significance in terms of beach management. The field site of choice is the Sefton coast, located in Liverpool Bay, United Kingdom. The approach used here involves process based modelling to determine storm-induced beach erosion and the application of modified Bruun Rule (Dean and Houston, 2016) to determine medium-long term evolution associated with climate change impacts. The application of the process-based model, XBeach, reveals that storm-induced short term beach erosion can be in the same scale or may surpass average medium/long term erosion thresholds and therefore, should be taken in to account when managing coastlines. Despite the complexities of the megatidal Sefton coast, the modified Bruun Rule proved to be capable of capturing long term beach profile change and assures that it can be confidently used to determine medium-long term beach-dune change due to sea level rise, once reliable estimates of longshore transport and sediment sources/sinks are made

Boulder deposition during major tsunami events

A remarkable accumulation of marine boulders located above the present spring tide level has occurred in two coastal lowlands of the Algarve (Portugal). The size-interval of the particles studied here is seldom reported in the literature in association with extreme events of coastal inundation, thus making this study of relevance to many other coasts worldwide. The spreads of boulders extend several hundred meters inland and well beyond the present landward limit of storm activity. The marine origin of the boulders is demonstrated by well-developed macro-bioerosion sculpturing and in situ skeletal remains of endolithic shallow marine bivalves. The good state preservation of the fossils within the boulders indicates that abrasion duringtransport and redeposition was not significant. We envisage boulder deposition as having taken place during the Lisbon tsunami of ad 1755 through the simultaneous landward entrainment of coarse particles from nearshore followed by rapid shoreward suspended-dominated transport and non-graded redeposition that excluded significant sorting by weight or boulder dimensions. We use numerical hydrodynamic modeling of tsunami (and storm) waves to test the observational data on boulder dimensions (density, size, distribution) on the most likely processes of sediment deposition. This work demonstrates the effectiveness of the study of boulder deposits in tsunami reconstruction. Copyright (C) 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd

Complexities in barrier island response to sea level rise : insights from numerical model experiments, North Carolina Outer Banks

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2010. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 115 (2010): F03004, doi:10.1029/2009JF001299.Using a morphological-behavior model to conduct sensitivity experiments, we investigate the sea level rise response of a complex coastal environment to changes in a variety of factors. Experiments reveal that substrate composition, followed in rank order by substrate slope, sea level rise rate, and sediment supply rate, are the most important factors in determining barrier island response to sea level rise. We find that geomorphic threshold crossing, defined as a change in state (e.g., from landward migrating to drowning) that is irreversible over decadal to millennial time scales, is most likely to occur in muddy coastal systems where the combination of substrate composition, depth-dependent limitations on shoreface response rates, and substrate erodibility may prevent sand from being liberated rapidly enough, or in sufficient quantity, to maintain a subaerial barrier. Analyses indicate that factors affecting sediment availability such as low substrate sand proportions and high sediment loss rates cause a barrier to migrate landward along a trajectory having a lower slope than average barrier island slope, thereby defining an “effective” barrier island slope. Other factors being equal, such barriers will tend to be smaller and associated with a more deeply incised shoreface, thereby requiring less migration per sea level rise increment to liberate sufficient sand to maintain subaerial exposure than larger, less incised barriers. As a result, the evolution of larger/less incised barriers is more likely to be limited by shoreface erosion rates or substrate erodibility making them more prone to disintegration related to increasing sea level rise rates than smaller/more incised barriers. Thus, the small/deeply incised North Carolina barriers are likely to persist in the near term (although their long-term fate is less certain because of the low substrate slopes that will soon be encountered). In aggregate, results point to the importance of system history (e.g., previous slopes, sediment budgets, etc.) in determining migration trajectories and therefore how a barrier island will respond to sea level rise. Although simple analytical calculations may predict barrier response in simplified coastal environments (e.g., constant slope, constant sea level rise rate, etc.), our model experiments demonstrate that morphological-behavior modeling is necessary to provide critical insights regarding changes that may occur in environments having complex geometries, especially when multiple parameters change simultaneously.This work was partially supported by the U.S. Geological Survey, Woods Hole Science Center and a sabbatical leave fellowship from Oberlin College to Laura Moore from the Mellon‐8 Consortium

High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes : 1. Modeling of sand waves, flying spits, and capes

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2006. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 111 (2006): F04011, doi:10.1029/2005JF000422.Contrary to traditional findings, the deepwater angle of wave approach strongly affects plan view coastal evolution, giving rise to an antidiffusional “high wave angle” instability for sufficiently oblique deepwater waves (with angles between wave crests and the shoreline trend larger than the value that maximizes alongshore sediment transport, ∼45°). A one-contour-line numerical model shows that a predominance of high-angle waves can cause a shoreline to self-organize into regular, quasiperiodic shapes similar to those found along many natural coasts at scales ranging from kilometers to hundreds of kilometers. The numerical model has been updated from a previous version to include a formulation for the widening of an overly thin barrier by the process of barrier overwash, which is assumed to maintain a minimum barrier width. Systematic analysis shows that the wave climate determines the form of coastal response. For nearly symmetric wave climates (small net alongshore sediment transport), cuspate coasts develop that exhibit increasing relative cross-shore amplitude and pointier tips as the proportion of high-angle waves is increased. For asymmetrical wave climates, shoreline features migrate in the downdrift direction, either as subtle alongshore sand waves or as offshore-extending “flying spits,” depending on the proportion of high-angle waves. Numerical analyses further show that the rate that the alongshore scale of model features increases through merging follows a diffusional temporal scale over several orders of magnitude, a rate that is insensitive to the proportion of high-angle waves. The proportion of high-angle waves determines the offshore versus alongshore aspect ratio of self-organized shoreline undulations.This research was funded by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation and NSF grants DEB-05-07987 and EAR-04-44792

An integrated approach to coastal erosion problems in northern Tuscany (Italy): Littoral morphological evolution and cell distribution

Occupation of the coast has significantly increased in recent decades, mostly due to a greater demand for recreation and tourism. Today, erosion threatens many human-made structures and activities, requiring an integrated approach for the understanding of coastal dynamics and identification of alternatives to associated problems. This study investigates a 64 km-long coastal physiographic unit in the northern microtidal littoral of Tuscany (Italy). Vertical aerial photographs and direct field surveys were used to retrieve changes in shoreline position over 1938–1997 and 1997–2005 time intervals. Significant beach accretion was observed during the first period updrift of Carrara (84 m) and Viareggio (280 m) harbours and at Marina di Pietrasanta (100 m), whereas severe erosion occurred downcoast of Carrara harbour (−130 m, at Marina dei Ronchi) and on the northern side of Arno river mouth (−400 m). Similar trends were observed between 1997 and 2005; beach slope between the 1997 shoreline position and the closure depth correlated well with the distribution of erosion/accretion patterns from the 1938–1997 period (slopes were lower in eroded areas than at sites under accretion). Longshore distribution of erosion/accretion patterns was controlled by coastal compartmentalisation. Three of the main littoral cells were mostly formed by natural limits (i.e., Punta Bianca promontory, Marina di Pietrasanta, the Arno river mouth and the port of Livorno). Several sub-cells were created within these cells due to the introduction of human-made structures (such as Carrara and Viareggio harbours), which formed artificial fixed limits that allowed the transport of sediments (exclusively fines) in one direction only. Results will help improve the understanding of coastal processes and manage littoral sediment transport in a sustainable manner. This will reduce the need for structural interventions, such as breakwaters and groynes, which in the past decades prevented coastal retreat at local scale but shifted erosion downdrift, leading to degradation of the investigated area and requiring continuous maintenance