17 research outputs found

    Establishing storm thresholds for the spanish gulf of Cádiz coast

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    In this study critical thresholds are defined for storm impacts along the Spanish coast of the Gulf of Cádiz. The thresholds correspond to the minimum wave and tide conditions necessary to produce significant morphological changes on beaches and dunes and/or damage on coastal infrastructure or human occupation. Threshold definition was performed by computing theoretical sea-level variations during storms and comparing them with the topography of the study area and the location of infrastructure at a local level. Specifically, the elevations of the berm, the dune foot and the entrance of existing washovers were selected as threshold parameters. The total sea-level variation generated by a storm event was estimated as the sum of the tidal level, the wind-induced setup, the barometric setup and the wave-associated sea-level variation (wave setup and runup), assuming a minimum interaction between the different processes. These components were calculated on the basis of parameterisations for significant wave height (Hs) obtained for the oceanographic and environmental conditions of the Gulf of Cadiz. For this purpose real data and reanalysis time-series (HIPOCAS project) were used. Validation of the obtained results was performed for a range of coastal settings over the study area. The obtained thresholds for beach morphological changes in spring tide conditions range between a significant wave height of 1.5 m and 3.7 m depending on beach characteristics, while for dune foot erosion are around 3.3 to 3.7 m and for damage to infrastructure around 7.2 m. In case of neap tide conditions these values are increased on average by 50% over the areas with large tidal range. Furthermore, records of real damage in coastal infrastructure caused by storms were collected at a regional level from newspapers and other bibliographic sources and compared with the hydrodynamic conditions that caused the damage. These were extracted from the hindcast database of the HIPOCAS project, including parameters such as storm duration, mean and maximum wave height and wave direction. Results show that the duration of the storm is not critical in determining the occurrence of coastal damage in the regional study area. This way, the threshold would be defined as a duration ≥30 hours, with moderate average wave height (≥3.3 m) and high maximum wave height (≥4.1 m) approaching from the 3rd and 4th quadrants, during mean or spring tide situation. The calculated thresholds constitute snapshots of risk conditions within a certain time framework. Beach and nearshore zones are extremely dynamic, and also the characteristics of occupation on the coast change over time, so critical storm thresholds will change accordingly and therefore will need to be updated

    Downwearing rates on shore platforms of different calcareous lithotypes

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    Vertical lowering (downwearing) of shore platform surfaces is a very important mechanism in their morphological evolution albeit much remains incompletely understood. The efficacy of mechanical and chemical weathering acting on a given substrate, together with erosional processes, influences downwearing rates. In order to determine the relationship between lithotypes and downwearing rates, data collected from a Transverse Micro-erosion Meter were obtained for shore platforms of three different calcareous lithotypes (biocalcarenite, calcarenite and carbonated siltstone) along the central Algarve coast (Southern Portugal). Downwearing rates ranged between 0.096 mm year−1 and 1.676 mm year−1 in biocalcarenite and weakly cemented calcarenite, respectively. In addition, physical properties of the rocks comprising the platforms were measured, including uniaxial compressive strength (as determined by the Point Load Test), porosity, and calcium carbonate content. The results show that downwearing depends primarily on the intrinsic properties of the substrate. Porosity, in particular, acts in two ways: (i) it tends to weaken the substrate; and, (ii) it controls the downward extent of the water percolation and therefore the depth of the weathering mantle subject to erosion by waves and currents.Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) through Research Projects PTDC/CTEGEX/70448/2006 (BISHOP) and PTDC/CTE-GIX/111230/2009 (EROS)

    Morphological features and processes in the central Algarve rocky coast (South Portugal)

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    Morphological features along the Algarve rocky coast, South Portugal, are identified and described, with an emphasis on shore platforms and notches. The contributions of processes, such as wave attack, chemical weathering and bioerosion, to sculpting the shore platforms are discussed. The preferential localization of shore platforms on sites exposed to waves, and the lack of significant chemical weathering, point to wave erosion as the first-order factor in platform formation, whilst bioerosion/bioprotection, lithology and geological structure determine platform morphological variations. In addition, platforms above the present intertidal zone appear to have a polygenetic evolution, being inherited from former sea-level highstands and currently undergoing chemical weathering. The occurrence of notch features is independent of the degree of exposure to waves, but they mostly occur where the substratum is sand. Hydrostatic pressure appears to be an important factor in the formation of marine caves in the more sheltered sites.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia. COCHAL Project (POCTI/34162/CTA/00

    Holocene sea level fluctuations and coastal evolution in the central Algarve (southern Portugal)

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    In Armação de Pêra Bay, southern Portugal, environmental changes during the Holocene can be interpreted based on the morphological and sedimentological similarities between older geomorphic features (cemented beach and dune rocks) and present coastal features. Using knowledge of the present beach and dune processes, we propose a two-step model for the evolution of Armação de Pêra Bay. First, during the rapid sea level rise between about 8800 and 6600 yr cal BP, the bay changed from a positive to a negative budget littoral cell and transgressive dunes formed, favoured by drought conditions. At about 5000 yr cal BP, during a sea level maximum, beach width was less than the critical fetch and dunes stabilized and underwent cementation during the wetter Atlantic climatic event. The second phase of dune accumulation started at about 3200 yr cal BP, due to a regression of sea level during which the bay changed back to a positive budget littoral cell in which beach width was greater than the critical fetch. Currently, the beach width is less than the critical fetch, dunes are inactive, and the sedimentary budget is negative due to sediment storage in local river systems.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia. FEDER, and OE (Project POCTI/CTA/34162/2000

    Morphology of the Faial Island shelf (Azores): the interplay between volcanic, erosional, depositional, tectonic and mass-wasting processes

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    [1] The extents of volcanic island shelves result from surf erosion, which enlarges them, and volcanic progradation, which reduces them. However, mass‐wasting, tectonics and sediment deposition also contribute to their morphology. In order to assess the relative significance of these various processes, we have mapped in detail Faial Island's shelf in the Azores archipelago based on interpretation of geophysical and geological data. The nearshore substrates of the island, down to 30–50 m depth, are rocky and covered by volcaniclastic boulder deposits formed by surf action on now‐submerged lava flows. Below those depths, sandy and gravel volcaniclastic beds dominate, building clinoforms up to the shelf edge. In some sectors of the coast, prograding lava has narrowed the shelf, but, in contrast to nearby Pico Island, we find fewer submarine‐emplaced lavas on the shelf. In this island, we interpret the distance between the coastline and the shelf edge as almost entirely a result of a straightforward competition between surf erosion and lava progradation, in which erosion dominates. Therefore shelf width can be used as a proxy for coastline age as well as for wave energy exposure. The stratigraphy of shelf deposits in boomer seismic data is examined in detail to assess the roles of different sediment sources, accommodation space and wave exposure in creating these deposits. We also show evidence of mass‐wasting at the shelf edge and discuss the possible origins of slope instability. Finally, we discuss the contributing role of tectonics for the development of the shelf.publishe

    Anuario hidrográfico de la Marina de Chile.

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    Imprint varies: Valparaíso, <1901-1991>Mode of access: Internet.Vols. for 1875-1938-1940 issued by: Oficina Hidrográfica de Chile; 1941-1946-<1964-1969> issued by: Instituto Hidrográfico de la Armada; <1981-1986>- issued by: Servicio Hidrográfico y Oceanográfico.Vol. 1-33, in v. 34

    1934 : suplemento número 2 al derrotero de las costas de España y de Portugal ... : desde el cabo Trafalgar hasta el Puerto de la Coruña

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    Na capa: "Correcciones hechas hasta el 1º de enero de 1934"Na capa: "Este suplemento anula a los anteriores"F. impresas por unha soa car
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