24 research outputs found

    Vegetation control allows autocyclic formation of multiple dunes on prograding coasts

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    We investigate the formation of multiple dunes using a >15 yr record of dune growth from Long Beach Peninsula, Washington State (USA), and a recently published coastal dune model modified to include a feedback between vegetation growth and local dune slope. In the presence of shoreline progradation, we find that multiple dune ridge formation can be autocyclic, arising purely from internal dune dynamics rather than requiring variations in external conditions. Our results suggest that the ratio of the shoreline progradation rate and the lateral dune growth rate is critical in determining the height, number, and form of multiple dunes, allowing the development of testable predictions. Our findings are consistent with observations and imply that caution is required when using dune ridges as proxies for past changes in climate, sea level, land use, and tectonic activity because the relationship between external events and the formation of multiple dunes may not be one to one as previously thought

    Barrier island bistability induced by biophysical interactions

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    Barrier islands represent about 10% of the world’s coastline1, sustain rich ecosystems, host valuable infrastructure and protect mainland coasts from storms. Future climate-change-induced increases in the intensity and frequency of major hurricanes and accelerations in sea level rise will have a significant impact on barrier islands—leading to increased coastal hazards and flooding—yet our understanding of island response to external drivers remains limited. Here, we find that island response is intrinsically bistable and controlled by previously unrecognized dynamics: the competing, and quantifiable, effects of storm erosion, sea level rise, and the aeolian and biological processes that enable and drive dune recovery. When the biophysical processes driving dune recovery dominate, islands tend to be high in elevation and vulnerability to storms is minimized. Alternatively, when the effects of storm erosion dominate, islands may become trapped in a perpetual state of low elevation and maximum vulnerability to storms, even under mild storm conditions. When sea level rise dominates, islands become unstable and face possible disintegration. This quantification of barrier island dynamics is supported by data from the Virginia Barrier Islands, U.S. and provides a broader context for considering island response to climate change and the likelihood of potentially abrupt transitions in island state

    Stochastic properties of coastal flooding events – Part 1: convolutional-neural-network-based semantic segmentation for water detection

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    The frequency and intensity of coastal flooding is expected to accelerate in low-elevation coastal areas due to sea level rise. Coastal flooding due to wave overtopping affects coastal communities and infrastructure; however, it can be difficult to monitor in remote and vulnerable areas. Here we use a camera-based system to measure beach and back-beach flooding as part of the after-storm recovery of an eroded beach on the Texas coast. We analyze high-temporal resolution images of the beach using convolutional neural network (CNN)-based semantic segmentation to study the stochastic properties of flooding events. In the first part of this work, we focus on the application of semantic segmentation to identify water and overtopping events. We train and validate a CNN with over 500 manually classified images and introduce a post-processing method to reduce false positives. We find that the accuracy of CNN predictions of water pixels is around 90 % and strongly depends on the number and diversity of images used for training.</p

    Sediment Budget Controls on Foredune Height: Comparing Simulation Model Results with Field Data

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    The form, height and volume of coastal foredunes reflects the long-term interaction of a suite of nearshore and aeolian processes that control the amount of sand delivered to the foredune from the beach versus the amount removed or carried inland. In this paper, the morphological evolution of foredune profiles from Greenwich Dunes, Prince Edward Island over a period of 80 years is used to inform the development of a simple computer model that simulates foredune growth. The suggestion by others that increased steepness of the seaward slope will retard sediment supply from the beach to the foredune due to development of a flow stagnation zone in front of the foredune, hence limiting foredune growth, was examined. Our long-term data demonstrate that sediment can be transferred from the beach to the foredune, even with a steep foredune stoss slope, primarily because much of the sediment transfer takes place under oblique rather than onshore winds. During such conditions, the apparent aspect ratio of the dune to the oncoming flow is less steep and conditions are not favourable for the formation of a stagnation zone. The model shows that the rate of growth in foredune height varies as a function of sediment input from the beach and erosion due to storm events, as expected, but it also demonstrates that the rate of growth in foredune height per unit volume increase will decrease over time, which gives the perception of an equilibrium height having been reached asymptotically. As the foredune grows in size, an increasing volume of sediment is needed to yield a unit increase in height, therefore the apparent growth rate appears to slo

    An evolving research agenda for human–coastal systems

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    Constitutive relations for the isotropic deformation of frictionless packings of polydisperse spheres

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    The isotropic compression of polydisperse packings of frictionless spheres is modeled with the Discrete Element Method (DEM). The evolution of coordination number, fraction of rattlers, isotropic fabric, and pressure (isotropic stress) is reported as function of volume fraction for different system parameters. The power law relationship, with power ≈1/2, between coordination number and volume fraction is confirmed in the jammed state for a broad range of volume fractions and for different (moderate) polydispersities. The polydispersity in the packing causes a shift of the critical volume fraction, i.e., more heterogeneous packings jam at higher volume fractions. Close to jamming, the coordination number and the jamming volume fraction itself depend on both history and rate. At larger densities, neither the deformation history nor the loading rate have a significant effect on the evolution of the coordination number. Concerning the fabric tensor, comparing our DEM results to theoretical predictions, good agreement for different polydispersities is observed. An analytical expression for the pressure as function of isotropic (volumetric) strain is proposed for polydisperse packings, based on the assumption of uniform deformation. We note that, besides the implicit proportionality to contact number density (or fabric), no single power-law is evidenced in the relation between pressure and isotropic strain. However, starting from zero pressure at the jamming point, a linear term with a quadratic correction describes the stress evolution rather well for a broad range of densities and for various polydispersities. Finally, an incremental evolution equation is proposed for both fabric and stress, as function of isotropic strain, and involving the coordination number and the fraction of rattlers, as starting point for further studies involving anisotropic deformations

    Micro-mechanical analysis of deformation characteristics of three-dimensional granular materials

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    The deformation characteristics of idealized granular materials have been studied from the micro-mechanical viewpoint, using Bagi’s three-dimensional micro-mechanical formulation for the strain tensor [Bagi, K., 1996. Mechanics of Materials 22, 165–177]. This formulation is based on the Delaunay tessellation of space into tetrahedra. The set of edges of the tetrahedra can be divided into physical contacts and virtual contacts between particles. Bagi’s formulation expresses the continuum, macro-scale strain as an average over all edges, of their relative displacements (between two successive states) and the complementary-area vectors. This latter vector is a geometrical quantity determined from the set of edges, i.e. from the structure of the particle packing. Results from Discrete Element Method simulations of isotropic and triaxial loading of a three-dimensional polydisperse packing of spheres have been used to investigate statistics of the branch vectors and complementary-area vectors of edges (subdivided into physical and virtual contacts) and of the relative displacements of edges. The investigated statistics are probability density functions and averages over groups of edges with the same orientation. It is shown that these averages can be represented by second-order Fourier series in edge orientation. Edge orientations are distributed isotropically, contrary to contact orientations. The average lengths of the branch vectors and the normal component of the complementary-area vectors are distributed isotropically (with respect to the edge orientation) and their average values are related to each other and to the volume fraction of the assembly. The other two components of the complementary-area vector are zero on average. The total deformation of the assembly, as given by the average of the relative displacements of the edges of the Delaunay tessellation follows the uniform-strain prediction. However, neither the deformation of the physical contact network nor of the virtual contact network has this property. The average relative displacement of physical edges in the normal direction (determined by the branch vector) is smaller than that according to the uniform-strain assumption, while that of virtual contacts is larger. This is caused by the high interparticle stiffness that hinders compression. The reverse observation holds for the tangential component of the relative displacement vector. The contribution of the deformation of the empty space between physical contacts to the continuum, macro-scale strain tensor is therefore very important for the understanding and the prediction of the macro-scale deformation of granular materials

    Analysis of three-dimensional micro-mechanical strain formulations for granular materials: evaluation of accuracy

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    An important objective of recent research on micro-mechanics of granular materials is to develop macroscopic constitutive relations in terms of micro-mechanical quantities at inter-particle contacts. Although the micro-mechanical formulation of the stress tensor is well established, the corresponding formulation for the strain tensor has proven to be much more evasive, still being the subject of much discussion. In this paper, we study various micro-mechanical strain formulations for three-dimensional granular assemblies, following the work of Bagi in two dimensions (Bagi, 2006). All of these formulations are either based on an equivalent continuum approach, or follow the best-fit approach. Their accuracy is evaluated by comparing their results, using data from Discrete Element Method simulations on periodic assemblies, to the macroscopic deformation. It is found that Bagi’s formulation (Bagi, 1996), which is based on the Delaunay tessellation of space, is the most accurate. Furthermore, the best-fit formulation based on particle displacements only did unexpectedly well, in contrast to previously reported results for two-dimensional assemblies
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