Contravariant Boussinesq equations for the simulation of wave transformation, breaking and run-up

We propose an integral form of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations in contravariant formulation, in which Christoffel symbols are avoided, in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking and near shore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The motion equations retain the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity. A new Upwind Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory scheme for the solution of the fully non- linear Boussinesq equations on generalised curvilinear coordinate systems is proposed. The equations are rearranged in order to solve them by a high resolution hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The conservative part of the above-mentioned equations, consisting of the convective terms and the terms related to the free surface elevation, is discretised by a high-order shock- capturing finite volume scheme; dispersive terms and the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity are discretised by a cell-centred finite difference scheme. The shock-capturing method makes it possible to intrinsically model the wave breaking, therefore no additional terms are needed to take into account the breaking related energy dissipation in the surf zone. The model is applied on a real case regarding the simulation of wave fields and nearshore currents in the coastal region opposite Pescara harbour (Italy)

Finite volume methods for unidirectional dispersive wave models

We extend the framework of the finite volume method to dispersive unidirectional water wave propagation in one space dimension. In particular we consider a KdV-BBM type equation. Explicit and IMEX Runge-Kutta type methods are used for time discretizations. The fully discrete schemes are validated by direct comparisons to analytic solutions. Invariants conservation properties are also studied. Main applications include important nonlinear phenomena such as dispersive shock wave formation, solitary waves and their various interactions.Comment: 25 pages, 12 figures, 51 references. Other authors papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh

A numerical model for the simulation of a solitary wave in a coastal region

In this paper we propose a numerical model for the simulation of the tsunami wave propagation on coastal region. The model can simulate the wave transformation due to refraction, shoaling, diffraction and breaking phenomena that take place in the surf zone and can simulate the wet front progress on the mainland. The above mentioned model is based on the numerical integration of the Fully Non-linear Boussinesq Equations in the deep water region and of the Non-linear Shallow Water Equations in the surf zone. These equations are expressed in an integral contravariant formulation and are integrated on generalized curvilinear boundary conforming grid that can reproduce the complex morphology of the coast line. The numerical integration of the model equations is implemented by a high order Upwind WENO numerical scheme that involves an exact Riemann Solver. For the simulation of the wet front progress on the dry bed, the exact solution of the Riemann problem for the wet-dry front is used. The capacity of the proposed model to simulate the wet front progress velocity is tested by numerical reproducing the dam-break problem on a dry bed. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly simulate the tsunami wave evolution and propagation on the coastal region is tested by numerical reproducing a benchmark test case about the tsunami wave propagation on a conic island

Finite volume schemes for dispersive wave propagation and runup

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems. We focus mainly on the application of the method to bidirectional nonlinear, dispersive wave propagation in one space dimension. Special emphasis is given to important nonlinear phenomena such as solitary waves interactions, dispersive shock wave formation and the runup of breaking and non-breaking long waves.Comment: 41 pafes, 20 figures. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh

A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model

The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model for shallow water waves of large amplitude is studied. The original model is first recast under a new formulation more suitable for numerical resolution. An hybrid finite volume and finite difference splitting approach is then proposed. The hyperbolic part of the equations is handled with a high-order finite volume scheme allowing for breaking waves and dry areas. The dispersive part is treated with a classical finite difference approach. Extensive numerical validations are then performed in one horizontal dimension, relying both on analytical solutions and experimental data. The results show that our approach gives a good account of all the processes of wave transformation in coastal areas: shoaling, wave breaking and run-up

Finite volume methods for unidirectional dispersive wave model

We extend the framework of the finite volume method to dispersive unidirectional water wave propagation in one space dimension. In particular, we consider a KdV–BBM-type equation. Explicit and implicit–explicit Runge–Kutta-type methods are used for time discretizations. The fully discrete schemes are validated by direct comparisons to analytic solutions. Invariants’ conservation properties are also studied. Main applications include important nonlinear phenomena such as dispersive shock wave formation, solitary waves, and their various interaction

A discontinuous Galerkin method for a new class of Green-Naghdi equations on simplicial unstructured meshes

In this paper, we introduce a discontinuous Finite Element formulation on simplicial unstructured meshes for the study of free surface flows based on the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi equations. Working with a new class of asymptotically equivalent equations, which have a simplified analytical structure, we consider a decoupling strategy: we approximate the solutions of the classical shallow water equations supplemented with a source term globally accounting for the non-hydrostatic effects and we show that this source term can be computed through the resolution of scalar elliptic second-order sub-problems. The assets of the proposed discrete formulation are: (i) the handling of arbitrary unstructured simplicial meshes, (ii) an arbitrary order of approximation in space, (iii) the exact preservation of the motionless steady states, (iv) the preservation of the water height positivity, (v) a simple way to enhance any numerical code based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The resulting numerical model is validated through several benchmarks involving nonlinear wave transformations and run-up over complex topographies

Numerical simulation of strongly nonlinear and dispersive waves using a Green-Naghdi model

We investigate here the ability of a Green-Naghdi model to reproduce strongly nonlinear and dispersive wave propagation. We test in particular the behavior of the new hybrid finite-volume and finite-difference splitting approach recently developed by the authors and collaborators on the challenging benchmark of waves propagating over a submerged bar. Such a configuration requires a model with very good dispersive properties, because of the high-order harmonics generated by topography-induced nonlinear interactions. We thus depart from the aforementioned work and choose to use a new Green-Naghdi system with improved frequency dispersion characteristics. The absence of dry areas also allows us to improve the treatment of the hyperbolic part of the equations. This leads to very satisfying results for the demanding benchmarks under consideration