A Climate Index Optimized for Longshore Sediment Transport Reveals Interannual and Multidecadal Littoral Cell Rotations

A recent 35-year endpoint shoreline change analysis revealed significant counterclockwiserotations occurring in north-central Oregon, USA, littoral cells that extend 10s of kilometers in length.While the potential for severe El Niños to contribute to littoral cell rotations at seasonal to interannual scalewas previously recognized, the dynamics resulting in persistent (multidecadal) rotation were unknown,largely due to a lack of historical wave conditions extending back multiple decades and the difficulty ofseparating the timescales of shoreline variability in a high energy region. This study addresses this questionby (1) developing a statistical downscaling framework to characterize wave conditions relevant for longshoresediment transport during data-poor decades and (2) applying a one-line shoreline change model toquantitatively assess the potential for such large embayed beaches to rotate. A climateINdex was optimizedto capture variability in longshore wave power as a proxy for potentialLOngshore Sediment Transport(LOST_IN), and a procedure was developed to simulate many realizations of potential wave conditions fromthe index. Waves were transformed dynamically with Simulating Waves Nearshore to the nearshore asinputs to a one-line model that revealed shoreline rotations of embayed beaches at multiple time and spatialscales not previously discernible from infrequent observations. Model results indicate that littoral cellsrespond to both interannual and multidecadal oscillations, producing comparable shoreline excursions toextreme El Niño winters. The technique quantitatively relates morphodynamic forcing to specific climatepatterns and has the potential to better identify and quantify coastal variability on timescales relevant to achanging climate.This work would not have been possible without funding from the NSF Graduate Research Fellowship Program (GRFP) through NSF grant DGE-1314109, the Coastal and Ocean Climate Applications (COCA) program through NOAA grant NA15OAR4310243, NOAA’s Regional Integrated Sciences and Assessments Program (RISA), under NOAA grant NA15OAR4310145, and the Spanish Ministerio de Educación Cultura y Deporte FPU (Formación del Profesorado Universitario) studentship BOE-A-2013-12235. Beach survey data collection undertaken on the Oregon coast was made possible by the Northwest Association of Networked Ocean Observing Systems (NANOOS) through NOAA grant NA16NOS0120019

Data-driven and hybrid coastal morphological prediction methods for mesoscale forecasting

It is now common for coastal planning to anticipate changes anywhere from 70 to 100 years into the future. The process models developed and used for scheme design or for large-scale oceanography are currently inadequate for this task. This has prompted the development of a plethora of alternative methods. Some, such as reduced complexity or hybrid models simplify the governing equations retaining processes that are considered to govern observed morphological behaviour. The computational cost of these models is low and they have proven effective in exploring morphodynamic trends and improving our understanding of mesoscale behaviour. One drawback is that there is no generally agreed set of principles on which to make the simplifying assumptions and predictions can vary considerably between models. An alternative approach is data-driven techniques that are based entirely on analysis and extrapolation of observations. Here, we discuss the application of some of the better known and emerging methods in this category to argue that with the increasing availability of observations from coastal monitoring programmes and the development of more sophisticated statistical analysis techniques data-driven models provide a valuable addition to the armoury of methods available for mesoscale prediction. The continuation of established monitoring programmes is paramount, and those that provide contemporaneous records of the driving forces and the shoreline response are the most valuable in this regard. In the second part of the paper we discuss some recent research that combining some of the hybrid techniques with data analysis methods in order to synthesise a more consistent means of predicting mesoscale coastal morphological evolution. While encouraging in certain applications a universally applicable approach has yet to be found. The route to linking different model types is highlighted as a major challenge and requires further research to establish its viability. We argue that key elements of a successful solution will need to account for dependencies between driving parameters, (such as wave height and tide level), and be able to predict step changes in the configuration of coastal systems

Stades de développement et enseignement de la mathématique

Development stages and the teaching of mathematics. — A comparison established within one and the same class between efficiency levels as shown in the traditional teaching of mathematics and renewed pedagogics with regard to the children's intellectual development and basic attainments. Experimental procedure. Data- processing method. Related importance of each individual's intellectual development pace.Comparaison entre l'efficacité de la pédagogie traditionnelle des mathématiques et de la pédagogie rénovée au niveau du développement de la pensée et des acquisitions élémentaires chez les enfants d'une même classe. Le dispositif expérimental. La méthode de traitement des données. Importance du rythme individuel de développement intellectuel.Estadios de desarrollo y enseñanza de la matemática. — Comparación entre la eficacia de la pedagogía tradicional de las matemáticas y la de la pedagogía renovada al nivel del desarrollo del pensamiento y de las adquisiciones elementales en los alumnos de un mismo curso. El dispositivo experimental. El método de tratamiento de las conocidas. Importancia del ritmo individual de desarrollo intelectual.Levasseur Jacqueline, Pelnard-Considere Jacqueline. Stades de développement et enseignement de la mathématique. In: Revue française de pédagogie, volume 32, 1975. pp. 20-41

Pédagogie nouvelle en mathématiques et développement intellectuel

New pedagogy in mathemathics and mental development. — Report of an experiment based on comparison of groups of children from 9 to 13, contrasted as to the kind of mathematics teaching they received, in order to determine the existing connexions between mental level, evolution of logical thought and mathematical trainings, in accordance with hypotheses made from the reflexion on the origin of individual differences.Pédagogie nouvelle en mathématiques et développement intellectuel. — Relation d'une expérience basée sur la comparaison de groupes d'élèves de 9 à 13 ans, contrastés quant au type de pédagogie reçue en mathématiques, afin de déterminer les relations entre niveau d'intelligence, développement de la pensée logique et apprentissages mathématiques, en fonction d'hypothèses que soulève la réflexion sur l'origine des différences individuelles.Pedagogia nueva en matemáticas y desarrollo intelectual — Relación de una experiencia basada en la comparación de grupos de alumnos de los 9 a 13 años, diferenciado en cuanto al tipo de pedagogía recibida en matemáticas, para determinar relaciones entre nivel de inteligencia, desarrollo del pensamiento lógico y aprentizajes matemáticos con arreglo a hipotesis que suscita la reflexion sobre el origen de las diferencias individuates.Pelnard-Considere Jacqueline, Levasseur Jacqueline. Pédagogie nouvelle en mathématiques et développement intellectuel. In: Revue française de pédagogie, volume 23, 1973. pp. 5-30