The Tropical Myth and Brazilian Textile Design

In 1930, the populist Vargas government embarked on a program of rapid industrialization and became responsible for the development and progress of the nation. Traditionally, the national textile industry had been associated with slaves and the poor and the wealthier classes despised Brazilian textile goods which they regarded as common and preferred imported goods instead. In modernizing the industrial sector, and diversifying production, the government and industry felt compelled to change people’s ideas about national products and in this way sought to stimulate the growth of internal consumption and encourage the nation to have a positive image of itself. To achieve this, national textiles had to be associated with a Brazilian aesthetic ideal and thus be clearly distinguished from any comparable foreign products. In this situation, certain patterns were chosen as genuinely nationalistic by embodying an iconographic repertoire drawn from the tropical environment, and based on the arts. In this way, ®Brazilian fabrics® took on simple forms and striking colors and recaptured features of tropical flora and fauna which made it exotic. However, it also spread the false idea that these creations were devoid of any foreign influences. This study seeks to show that there is nothing genuine in these representations and that they only reflect the illusions of populist political speeches. Although it is recognized that there is a need for a standard image, such as that of the tropical myth which could identify the people with unspoiled nature despite of the widely varying economic condition of the people

MODA: COMPOSIÇÃO, INDICAÇÕES, POSOLOGIAS E CONTRAINDICAÇÕES

Resenha de: DAVID, Alison Matthews. Fashion victims: the dangers of dress past and present, Londres, Nova Iorque: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2017, 220 páginas

Decorative fabrics for 19th century domestic interiors in english and north-american prescriptive literature

Os manuais e jornais de decoração publicados na Inglaterra e Estados Unidos durante o século XIX deram à escolha dos têxteis um papel fundamental na configuração dos ambientes. Têxteis artísticos, artesanais e industriais compartilharam o espaço doméstico, sendo recomendados, em cada situação, conforme seu valor social, diretamente proporcional ao seu valor artístico. Baseado na literatura destinada a auxiliar na decoração doméstica e na bibliografia prévia que explora o assunto, este artigo trata dessa relação e procura demonstrar que com o avanço da industrialização e o crescimento da utilização de tecidos industrializados, valores artísticos foram transmitidos aos tecidos produzidos pela indústria com a intenção de melhorar sua aceitação entre os consumidores.The handbooks and magazines about decorating that were published in England and North America during the19th Century meant that the choice of textiles played a key role in shaping the environment. Artistic, craftsman and industrial textiles shared domestic space and in each situation, it was advised that their social value should be directly proportional to their artistic value. This article is based on the literature designed to serve as an aid to house decoration and the bibliography of works that have previously explored this subject. It addresses this relationship and seeks to show that through industrial advances and the growth in the use of industrialized fabrics, artistic values were transmitted to the textiles produced by industry with the aim of ensuring they had a better acceptance among the customers

Princípios gerais de conservação têxtil

O objetivo maior deste artigo é analisar a conservação dos têxteis, nas suas diversas categorias, e oferecer subsídios para a maior compreensão dos materiais e estruturas que os compõem, auxiliando a sua salvaguarda, conservação e também a sua catalogação. Com isso, pretende- se aprofundar o estudo dos têxteis para fins de pesquisas históricas no Brasil, chamando a atenção de pesquisadores em diversos níveis para a importância documental deste tipo de material. O leitor que não é conservador encontrará instrumentos para que ele mesmo possa, na ausência de um profissional habilitado, contribuir para a preservação dos têxteis.The main objective of this article is to discuss the conservation of textiles, in their different categories and offer support for the understanding of materials and structures that are part of them, thus helping in the storage, conservation and cataloguing. It is intended to deepen the study of textiles in historic research in Brazil, driving the attention of researchers in different levels for the documental importance of this kind of material. The reader that is not a conservator may find suitable support so that he may, whenever a capable professional is not available, help in the preservation of textiles

Lecturas

JAMES S. AMELANG, El vuelo de Ícaro. La autobiografía popular en la Europa Moderna (Por Vanessa de Cruz: «Empresa mui grande, ó loco atrevimiento...»).-- LARISSA BONFANTE, JOHN CHADWICK, B. F. COOK, W. V. DAVIES, JOHN F. HEALY, J. T. HOOKER y C. F. B. WALKER, Leyendo el pasado. Antiguas escrituras del cuneiforme al alfabeto (Por Luz Neira Jiménez: Un recorrido por las escrituras testimonio de los orígenes de la civilización occidental).-- ANTONIO CASTILLO GÓMEZ, Historia mínima del libro y la lectura (Por Verónica Sierra Blas: Un pequeño viaje al gran mundo de los libros).-- La conquista del alfabeto. Escritura y clases populares, coord. Antonio Castillo Gómez (Por Fabio Caffarena: Gente común y escritura: una mirada desde abajo).-- ANA MARTÍNEZ RUS, La política del libro durante la Segunda República: socialización de la lectura (Por Genaro Luis García López).-- JUAN PIMENTEL, Testigos del mundo: ciencia, literatura y viajes en la Ilustración (Por Enrique Villalba).-- VERÓNICA SIERRA BLAS, Los manuales epistolares en la España Contemporánea (1927-1945) (Por Vanessa de Cruz: Gran manual sobre manuales)Publicad

La consulta previa del reglamento de la ley forestal y fauna silvestre : un análisis de la participación de los pueblos indígenas en la toma de decisiones

La investigación La consulta previa del Reglamento de la Ley Forestal y Fauna Silvestre. Un análisis de la participación de los pueblos indígenas en la toma de decisiones identifica y analiza los elementos del proceso de consulta previa del Reglamento de la Ley Forestal y Fauna Silvestre (LFFS) que resultaron relevantes para la inclusión de los pueblos indígenas en la toma de decisiones con respecto a una política que los afecta directamente. El análisis de la consulta previa de la reglamentación de la LFFS radica fundamentalmente en que se trata de la implementación de una política pública con la participación de los pueblos indígenas y, sobre todo, desde una perspectiva intercultural, pues, como bien se puede constatar, la participación de los pueblos indígenas continúa siendo un gran desafío para los hacedores de políticas públicas, no solo por los niveles de exclusión a los que estos se encuentran sometidos, sino también porque se requiere desarrollar herramientas interculturales, las cuales son la clave para la gestión de la diversidad y del potencial para las naciones más justas y equitativas. La presente investigación es un estudio de caso, basado en el análisis de la información recogida a través de técnicas cualitativas como las siguientes: entrevistas semiestructuradas y un grupo focal a representantes de los pueblos indígenas, y entrevistas semiestructuradas a funcionarios públicos que participaron en el proceso de consulta previa; asimismo se realizó revisión y análisis documentario. En conclusión, el espacio de la consulta previa promovió la participación y el fortalecimiento de las organizaciones indígenas, gracias a su perspectiva intercultural y enfoque participativo. Ello generó, además, una nueva forma de relacionarse entre las instituciones del Estado y los pueblos indígenas a través de la escucha, y una mayor voluntad de diálogo entre las partes, lo cual configuró los elementos iniciales de un diálogo intercultural.Tesi

Diatomeas fósiles (Formación Zapallal, Cuenca Sechura) y sus aplicaciones como elementos de correlación regional

Se presentan los resultados del estudio de diatomeas fósiles registradas en la quebrada Nacupio, en la provincia de Sechura, al sureste de Bayóvar, departamento de Piura (Fig. 1) correspondiente al cuadrángulo de Sechura (12-b). Se trata de una secuencia de diatomitas pertenecientes a la Formación Zapallal cuyos niveles son asignados a tiempos miocénicos. La localidad tipo está en Salina, Zapallal, desierto de Sechura-Piura y está compuesta además por lutitas diatomáceas y fosfáticas friables de color gris a gris verdoso con intercalaciones de areniscas tobáceas y limolitas con menores cantidades de bentonitas, calizas fosfatadas con pirita diseminada y areniscas cuarzosas, con un espesor de unos 700 a 970 m (Mac Donald, 1956). Su amplia distribución, que comprende áreas desde Sullana por el norte hasta Pampa Namuc por el sur (Olsson, 1932; Caldas, 1980) y carácter homogéneo en su extensión, permite destacar el valor de su contenido diatomáceo para distinguir algunos elementos de aplicación regional para las comparaciones estratigráficas. El presente trabajo tiene como objetivo definir algunas diatomeas en sus rangos verticales de tiempo y establecer su comparación biozonal para establecer precisiones geocronológicas, como elemento de correlación regional con el sur del país, específicamente la cuenca Pisco

Analysis of system dynamics in Vensim software

This document deals with the review of research articles related to Vensim software associated with system dynamics, in order to diagnose the application in different real cases within a modern context applied to the areas of engineering, medicine, population, food, marketing, advertising, environment, solutions, research, among other fields of action, differentiating the quality of the initial product with the final product with respect to conventional processes.En el presente documento trata de la revisión de artículos de investigación relacionados con el software Vensim asociados a la dinámica de sistemas, con el fin de diagnosticar la aplicación en diferentes casos reales dentro de un contexto moderno aplicado a las áreas de ingeniería, medicina, población, alimentos, mercadeo, publicidad, medio ambiente, soluciones, investigación, entre otros campos de acción, diferenciando la calidad del producto inicial con el producto final con respecto a los procesos convencionales

Genetic Variation in the TP53 Pathway and Bladder Cancer Risk. A Comprehensive Analysis

Introduction: Germline variants in TP63 have been consistently associated with several tumors, including bladder cancer, indicating the importance of TP53 pathway in cancer genetic susceptibility. However, variants in other related genes, including TP53 rs1042522 (Arg72Pro), still present controversial results. We carried out an in depth assessment of associations between common germline variants in the TP53 pathway and bladder cancer risk. Material and Methods: We investigated 184 tagSNPs from 18 genes in 1,058 cases and 1,138 controls from the Spanish Bladder Cancer/EPICURO Study. Cases were newly-diagnosed bladder cancer patients during 1998–2001. Hospital controls were age-gender, and area matched to cases. SNPs were genotyped in blood DNA using Illumina Golden Gate and TaqMan assays. Cases were subphenotyped according to stage/grade and tumor p53 expression. We applied classical tests to assess individual SNP associations and the Least Absolute Shrinkage and Selection Operator (LASSO)-penalized logistic regression analysis to assess multiple SNPs simultaneously. Results: Based on classical analyses, SNPs in BAK1 (1), IGF1R (5), P53AIP1 (1), PMAIP1 (2), SERINPB5 (3), TP63 (3), and TP73 (1) showed significant associations at p-value#0.05. However, no evidence of association, either with overall risk or with specific disease subtypes, was observed after correction for multiple testing (p-value$0.8). LASSO selected the SNP rs6567355 in SERPINB5 with 83% of reproducibility. This SNP provided an OR = 1.21, 95%CI 1.05–1.38, p-value = 0.006, and a corrected p-value = 0.5 when controlling for over-estimation. Discussion: We found no strong evidence that common variants in the TP53 pathway are associated with bladder cancer susceptibility. Our study suggests that it is unlikely that TP53 Arg72Pro is implicated in the UCB in white Europeans. SERPINB5 and TP63 variation deserve further exploration in extended studies.This work was supported by the Fondo de Investigacion Sanitaria, Spain (grant numbers 00/0745, PI051436, PI061614, G03/174); Red Tematica de Investigacion Cooperativa en Cancer (grant number RD06/0020-RTICC), Spain; Marato TV3 (grant number 050830); European Commission (grant numbers EU-FP7-HEALTH-F2-2008-201663-UROMOL; US National Institutes of Health (grant number USA-NIH-RO1-CA089715); and the Intramural Research Program of the Division of Cancer Epidemiology and Genetics, National Cancer Institute at the National Institutes of Health, USA; Consolider ONCOBIO (Ministerio de Economia y Competitividad, Madrid, Spain). The funders had no role in study design, data collection and analysis, decision to publish, or preparation of the manuscript