Reaproveitamento de materiais para acessórios de moda

Pretende-se com esta dissertação efetuar uma abordagem mais conceptual do design de moda, evidenciando o papel do designer para a sustentabilidade no mundo da moda e, ainda, como este se manifesta na contemporaneidade. Um dos principais problemas mundiais, em termos de sustentabilidade, é a existência de desperdícios provenientes das indústrias têxteis e do vestuário, que se transformam em resíduos se não forem reutilizados. Dada a dimensão do problema, assiste-se, assim, a uma tendência crescente para a incorporação dos desperdícios têxteis em novos produtos, reduzindo os resíduos. E isto é, claramente, um grande desafio para os designers de moda. E foi também a ideia impulsionadora desta dissertação. A leitura e tratamento da bibliografia permitiu um conhecimento alargado da temática da sustentabilidade, em termos gerais e, em particular, na área da moda, indústrias têxteis e do vestuário. Acrescentou-se a este conhecimento a análise de casos de produtos de moda sustentáveis. Como contributo desta dissertação para uma prova de conceito da temática em estudo, procurou-se desenvolver um produto (acessório de moda) com características sustentáveis, com base em desperdícios têxteis, ou seja, materiais descartados e recuperados de unidades fabris em Portugal. Utilizaram-se dois tipos de desperdícios completamente distintos, têxteis automotivos e aparas (pó) de pele natural. Com este último visou-se a obtenção de um material resistente e inovador, produzido e testado em laboratório. Cada material foi colocado no produto, estrategicamente no seu devido lugar, de modo a integrar as componentes estética e funcional. Por outro lado e seguindo a mesma filosofia, pretendeu-se igualmente a criação de um acessório de moda com características modulares para uma adaptação às várias fases do dia-a-dia do consumidor. Com o estudo teórico efetuado e a execução deste produto como prova de conceito foi possível contribuir para a demonstração do precioso trabalho que os designers de moda vêm fazendo na interligação da estética com a funcionalidade, numa lógica sustentável, favorecendo a redução dos resíduos através da reutilização dos desperdícios têxteis.The aim of this dissertation was to make a conceptual approach to fashion design, such as highlighting the role of the designer with sustainability in the fashion world and how to manifest itself in contemporary times. One of the world's major sustainability issues is the existence of waste from the textile and clothing industries, which become waste if it is not reused. Given the scale of the problem, there is a growing trend towards the incorporation of textile waste into new products, reducing waste. And this is clearly a big challenge for fashion designers. And it was also the driving force behind this dissertation. The reading and treatment of the bibliography allowed a broad knowledge of the subject of sustainability, in general terms, and in particular in the area of fashion, textile and clothing industries. It was added to this knowledge the case analysis of sustainable fashion products. As a contribution of this dissertation to a concept's proof of the theme under study, we sought to develop a product (fashion accessory) with sustainable characteristics, based on textile waste, that is, materials discarded and recovered from manufacturing units in Portugal. Using two completely different types of residues, such as automobile fabrics and skin scrap (powder), to produce a resistant and innovative material. The latter sought to obtain a resistant and innovative material, produced and tested in the laboratory. Each material was placed in the product, strategically in its proper place, in order to integrate the aesthetic and functional components. On the other hand and following the same philosophy, it was also intended to create a fashion accessory with modular features for an adaptation to the various phases of the daytime of the consumer. With the theoretical study carried out and the execution of this product as concept's proof it was possible to contribute to the demonstration of the precious work that fashion designers have been doing in the interconnection of aesthetics with functionality, in a sustainable logic, favoring the reduction of waste through reuse of textile waste

Complete blood count parameters as biomarkers of retinopathy of prematurity: a Portuguese multicenter study

© The Author(s) 2023. Open Access This article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons licence, and indicate if changes were made. The images or other third party material in this article are included in the article's Creative Commons licence, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in the article's Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. To view a copy of this licence, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/.Purpose: To evaluate complete blood count (CBC) parameters in the first week of life as predictive biomarkers for the development of retinopathy of prematurity (ROP). Methods: Multicenter, prospective, observational study of a cohort of preterm infants born with gestational age (GA) < 32 weeks or birth weight < 1500 g in eight Portuguese neonatal intensive care units. All demographic, clinical, and laboratory data from the first week of life were collected. Univariate logistic regression was used to assess risk factors for ROP and then multivariate regression was performed. Results: A total of 455 infants were included in the study. The median GA was 29.6 weeks, and the median birth weight was 1295 g. One hundred and seventy-two infants (37.8%) developed ROP. Median values of erythrocytes (p < 0.001), hemoglobin (p < 0.001), hematocrit (p < 0.001), mean corpuscular hemoglobin concentration (p < 0.001), lymphocytes (p = 0.035), and platelets (p = 0.003) of the group of infants diagnosed with ROP any stage were lower than those without ROP. Mean corpuscular volume (MCV) (p = 0.044), red blood cell distribution width (RDW) (p < 0.001), erythroblasts (p < 0.001), neutrophils (p = 0.030), neutrophils-lymphocytes ratio (p = 0.028), and basophils (p = 0.003) were higher in the ROP group. Higher values of MCV, erythroblasts, and basophils remained significantly associated with ROP after multivariate regression. Conclusion: In our cohort, the increase in erythroblasts, MCV, and basophils in the first week of life was significantly and independently associated with the development of ROP. These CBC parameters may be early predictive biomarkers for ROP.Open access funding provided by FCT|FCCN (b-on). This work was supported by the Laboratório de Genética and the Instituto de Saúde Ambiental (ISAMB) of the Faculdade de Medicina of Universidade de Lisboa and the Instituto de Investigação Científica Bento da Rocha Cabral. The writing of the manuscript was also supported by funds from Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia to ISAMB (ref. UIDB/04295/2020 and UIDP/04295/2020). This work was also part of a doctoral project funding by the company CUF with a PhD grant in Medicine awarded in 2021 and by the Portuguese Society of Ophthalmology with a PhD grant awarded in 2019.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Práticas artísticas no ensino básico e secundário

A mediação entre os conteúdos culturais e a Educação Artística formal tem emergido como uma distinta área de inovação e de intervenção, como o mostram os 18 artigos selecionados nesta nona edição da revista Matéria-Prima.Entre a identidade, fundada nos focos de conhecimento local, e uma inserção integrada nos problemas e conteúdos globais joga-se a problematização da Educação Artística. As propostas articulam quer discursos curatoriais (museu, bienal, exposição), como ações de mediação visando uma expansão das atividades, a que se juntam as reflexões sobre a realidade da formação de professores, nas suas diversas modalidades, em diversas realidades sociais.Propiciam-se oportunidades de ações de intervenção, concertadas ou não, entre os agentes artísticos e os educadores. O resultado pode ser potenciado se se conseguir uma perspetiva informada e integrada das realidades artísticas: pede-se a todos os intervenientes mais integração e disponibilidade para um conhecimento mútuo consequente.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Characterisation of microbial attack on archaeological bone

As part of an EU funded project to investigate the factors influencing bone preservation in the archaeological record, more than 250 bones from 41 archaeological sites in five countries spanning four climatic regions were studied for diagenetic alteration. Sites were selected to cover a range of environmental conditions and archaeological contexts. Microscopic and physical (mercury intrusion porosimetry) analyses of these bones revealed that the majority (68%) had suffered microbial attack. Furthermore, significant differences were found between animal and human bone in both the state of preservation and the type of microbial attack present. These differences in preservation might result from differences in early taphonomy of the bones. © 2003 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved