UBathy: a new approach for bathymetric inversion from video imagery

A new approach to infer the bathymetry from coastal video monitoring systems is presented. The methodology uses principal component analysis of the Hilbert transform of video images to obtain the components of the wave propagation field and their corresponding frequency and wavenumber. Incident and reflected constituents and subharmonics components are also found. Local water depth is then successfully estimated through wave dispersion relationship. The method is first applied to monochromatic and polychromatic synthetic wave trains propagated using linear wave theory over an alongshore uniform bathymetry in order to analyze the influence of different parameters on the results. To assess the ability of the approach to infer the bathymetry under more realistic conditions and to explore the influence of other parameters, nonlinear wave propagation is also performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model over a complex bathymetry. In the synthetic cases, the relative root mean square error obtained in bathymetry recovery (for water depths 0.75m¿h¿8.0m) ranges from ~1% to ~3% for infinitesimal-amplitude wave cases (monochromatic or polychromatic) to ~15% in the most complex case (nonlinear polychromatic waves). Finally, the new methodology is satisfactorily validated through a real field site video.Postprint (published version

Developing a remote sensing system based on X-band radar technology for coastal morphodynamics study

New data processing techniques are proposed for the assessment of scopes and limitations from radar-derived sea state parameters, coastline evolution and water depth estimates. Most of the raised research is focused on Colombian Caribbean coast and the Western Mediterranean Sea. First, a novel procedure to mitigate shadowing in radar images is proposed. The method compensates distortions introduced by the radar acquisition process and the power decay of the radar signal along range applying image enhancement techniques through a couple of pre-processing steps based on filtering and interpolation. Results reveal that the proposed methodology reproduces with high accuracy the sea state parameters in nearshore areas. The improvement resulting from the proposed method is assessed in a coral reef barrier, introducing a completely novel use for X-Band radar in coastal environments. So far, wave energy dissipation on a coral reef barrier has been studied by a few in-situ sensors placed in a straight line, perpendicular to the coastline, but never been described using marine radars. In this context, marine radar images are used to describe prominent features of coral reefs, including the delineation of reef morphological structure, wave energy dissipation and wave transformation processes in the lagoon of San Andres Island barrier-reef system. Results show that reef attenuates incident waves by approximately 75% due to both frictional and wave breaking dissipation, with an equivalent bottom roughness of 0.20 m and a wave friction factor of 0.18. These parameters are comparable with estimates reported in other shallow coral reef lagoons as well as at meadow canopies, obtained using in-situ measurements of wave parameters.DoctoradoDoctor en Ingeniería Eléctrica y Electrónic

Evaluation of video-based linear depth inversion performance and applications using altimeters and hydrographic surveys in a wide range of environmental conditions

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 136 (2018): 147-160, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.01.003.The performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3 < significant wave height < 4.3 m) on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, North Carolina. Comparisons of video-based cBathy bathymetry with surveyed bathymetry were similar to previous studies (root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.75 m, bias = −0.26 m). However, the cross-shore locations of the surfzone sandbar in video-derived bathymetry were biased onshore 18–40 m relative to the survey when offshore wave heights exceeded 1.2 m or were greater than half of the bar crest depth, and broke over the sandbar. The onshore bias was 3–4 m when wave heights were less than 0.8 m and were not breaking over the sandbar. Comparisons of video-derived seafloor elevations with in-situ altimeter data at three locations onshore of, near, and offshore of the surfzone sandbar over ∼1 year provide the first assessment of the cBathy technique over a wide range of wave conditions. In the outer surf zone, video-derived results were consistent with long-term patterns of bathymetric change (r2 = 0.64, RMSE = 0.26 m, bias = −0.01 m), particularly when wave heights were less than 1.2 m (r2 = 0.83). However, during storms when wave heights exceeded 3 m, video-based cBathy over-estimated the depth by up to 2 m. Near the sandbar, the sign of depth errors depended on the location relative to wave breaking, with video-based depths overestimated (underestimated) offshore (onshore) of wave breaking in the surfzone. Wave speeds estimated by video-based cBathy at the initiation of wave breaking often were twice the speeds predicted by linear theory, and up to three times faster than linear theory during storms. Estimated wave speeds were half as fast as linear theory predictions at the termination of wave breaking shoreward of the sandbar. These results suggest that video-based cBathy should not be used to track the migration of the surfzone sandbar using data when waves are breaking over the bar nor to quantify morphological evolution during storms. However, these results show that during low energy conditions, cBathy estimates could be used to quantify seasonal patterns of seafloor evolution.This research was funded by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Field Data Collection Program, the Deputy Assistant Secretary of the Army for Research and Technology under ERDC's research program titled “Force Projection Entry Operations, STO D.GRD.2015.34”, the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory base program from the Office of Naval Research, a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship funded by the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering, and the National Science Foundation

Nearshore Monitoring with X-Band Radar: Maximising Utility in Dynamic and Complex Environments

Coastal management and engineering applications require data that quantify the nature and magnitude of changes in nearshore bathymetry. However, bathymetric surveys are usually infrequent due to high costs and complex logistics. This study demonstrates that ground‐based X‐band radar offers a cost‐effective means to monitor nearshore changes at relatively high frequency and over large areas. A new data quality and processing framework was developed to reduce uncertainties in the estimates of radar‐derived bathymetry and tested using data from an 18‐month installation at Thorpeness (UK). In addition to data calibration and validation, two new elements are integrated to reduce the influence of data scatter and outliers: (a) an automated selection of periods of ‘good data’ and (b) the application of a depth‐memory stabilisation. For conditions when the wave height is >1 m, the accuracy of the radar‐derived depths is shown to be ±0.5 m (95% confidence interval) at 40x40 m spatial resolution. At Thorpeness, radar‐derived bathymetry changes exceeding this error were observed at timescales ranging from three weeks to six months. These data enabled quantification of changes in nearshore sediment volume at frequencies and spatial cover that would be difficult and/or expensive to obtain by other methods. It is shown that the volume of nearshore sediment movement occurring at timescale as short as few weeks are comparable with the annual longshore transport rates reported in this area. The use of radar can provide an early warning of changes in offshore bathymetry likely to impact vulnerable coastal locations

Nearshore hydrodynamics and morphology derived from video imagery

Tese de doutoramento, Geologia (Geodinâmica Externa), Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências, 2018The coastal zone is the dynamic interface between the land and the ocean. Natural processes, including wave action, flooding and coastal erosion, often endanger human occupation and the use of the littoral. It is therefore essential to improve our understanding of the physical processes occurring at the coast, particularly those related with coastal morphodynamics. Due to the complexity of the coastal environment, littoral studies should be as comprehensive as possible, covering both hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response. However, conventional in-situ survey methods involve the use of instrumentation which, due to the logistical commitments, do not provide the required time-space scales. Remote sensing methods emerge in this context as an interesting alternative solution to yield simultaneous high temporal frequency and high spatial resolution observations of the nearshore processes. Among others, shore-based video remote sensing systems have been proved, over the last three decades, as a cost-efficient and high-quality tool to support coastal scientists and managers. Video monitoring installations offer excellent spatio-temporal resolutions, in combination with cost-efficient long-term data acquisition. This dissertation aims to present new conceptual models and video imagery tools to assess nearshore morphodynamics. This objective was accomplished through the development of a set of efficient computational tools to extract synoptic hydrodynamic and morphology information from video images. Data used in this work were acquired at five different study sites located worldwide. At three sites, video data were collected from dedicated video systems installed for scientific purpose. Two more additional video data sets were derived from the acquisition of online-streaming surfcams, which are camera infrastructures installed at the coast to provide remote visual information of sea state to surf users. A stand-alone set of algorithm was built to process and to geo-reference the acquired video sequence using already existing software. In addition, the automated processing is set to produce special images, namely Timex Variance and Timestack. A first video-based technique exploited the pixel intensity variation of Timestack images to characterize nearshore hydrodynamics. The standard deviation of pixel intensity was successfully related to the spatial distribution of wave transformation domains. Therefore, shoaling, surf and swash zones could be clearly identified in the nearshore profile covered by the image. This technique provides a new tool to study the nearshore dynamics, as the extent of wave domains can be related with distinctive morphodynamic behaviour. The method can be also directly applied to Variance images, hence it offers the possibility of extending such studies to the alongshore dimension. A second methodology developed in the scope of the present work exploited the use of pixel intensity average of Timestack images to estimate wave breaking height. Breakpoint locations and pixel intensity profiles were used to define the cross-shore breaking pattern length visible on a time-averaged image, here defined as the parameter. A first approach coupled to the available bathymetry to solve a simple conceptual model for finding breaker height. Wave breaking height estimates yield a Normalized Root Mean Square Error (NRMSE) of 14% when compared to numerical model results, for offshore wave heights ranging from 1.6 m to 3.5 m. A second approach proposed the relationship /24 to replace water depth parameter on the simplest wave height calculation formula, which multiplies water depth by the breaker index. The technique can be directly applied on Timex, therefore images from four different sites were used to test its validity, obtaining an NRMSE of about 22% for a wide range of wave heights. A third methodology aimed to investigate the possibility of combining two shorebased remote sensing techniques, 2D terrestrial LiDAR and video imagery to perform detailed beach intertidal topography. 2D LiDAR provided precise shoreline elevation along a cross-shore beach transect, while shoreline contour was detected on Timex images in the alongshore dimension. The dataset from both instruments were complemented to perform 3D beach intertidal topography mapping with a Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) of approximately 0.12 m. Finally, a method to assess nearshore bathymetry was developed. The method is based on a depth inversion technique, where wave celerity was estimated using wave trajectories visible on Timestacks. The procedure differentiates the waves in the shoaling and breaking zones and then estimates local depth from shallow or intermediate water equations. In the test case, bathymetry was mapped till a depth of 11 m with relative short time observations (5 hours), registering a RMSE of about 0.46 m when compared to ground truth data. The techniques herein developed allow to extract from video images some of the key drivers of nearshore morphodynamics, such as wave breaking height and wave period, as well as the main morphological features, namely subtidal bathymetry and intertidal beach topography. The combination of the methodologies presented in this thesis provides a comprehensive coverage of nearshore processes, enabling a synoptic representation of hydrodynamics and morphology. These methodologies may foster the implementation of new video-based operational systems and support the quasi-real time determination of coastal indicators and early warning systems for coastal hazards.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT), SFRH/BD/52558/201

Observations of storm morphodynamics using Coastal Lidar and Radar Imaging System (CLARIS): Importance of wave refraction and dissipation over complex surf-zone morphology at a shoreline erosional hotspot

Elevated water levels and large waves during storms cause beach erosion, overwash, and coastal flooding, particularly along barrier island coastlines. While predictions of storm tracks have greatly improved over the last decade, predictions of maximum water levels and variations in the extent of damage along a coastline need improvement. In particular, physics based models still cannot explain why some regions along a relatively straight coastline may experience significant erosion and overwash during a storm, while nearby locations remain seemingly unchanged. Correct predictions of both the timing of erosion and variations in the magnitude of erosion along the coast will be useful to both emergency managers and homeowners preparing for an approaching storm. Unfortunately, research on the impact of a storm to the beach has mainly been derived from pre and post storm surveys of beach topography and nearshore bathymetry during calm conditions. This has created a lack of data during storms from which to ground-truth model predictions and test hypotheses that explain variations in erosion along a coastline. We have developed Coastal Lidar and Radar Imaging System (CLARIS), a mobile system that combines a terrestrial scanning laser and an X-band marine radar system using precise motion and location information. CLARIS can operate during storms, measuring beach topography, nearshore bathymetry (from radar-derived wave speed measurements), surf-zone wave parameters, and maximum water levels remotely. In this dissertation, we present details on the development, design, and testing of CLARIS and then use CLARIS to observe a 10 km section of coastline in Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills on the Outer Banks of North Carolina every 12 hours during a Nor\u27Easter (peak wave height in 8 m of water depth = 3.4 m). High decadal rates of shoreline change as well as heightened erosion during storms have previously been documented to occur within the field site. In addition, complex bathymetric features that traverse the surf-zone into the nearshore are present along the southern six kilometers of the field site. In addition to the CLARIS observations, we model wave propagation over the complex nearshore bathymetry for the same storm event. Data reveal that the complex nearshore bathymetry is mirrored by kilometer scale undulations in the shoreline, and that both morphologies persist during storms, contrary to common observations of shoreline and surf-zone linearization by large storm waves. We hypothesize that wave refraction over the complex nearshore bathymetry forces flow patterns which may enhance or stabilize the shoreline and surf-zone morphology during storms. In addition, our semi-daily surveys of the beach indicate that spatial and temporal patterns of erosion are strongly correlated to the steepness of the waves. Along more than half the study site, fifty percent or more of the erosion that occurred during the first 12 hours of the storm was recovered within 24 hours of the peak of the storm as waves remained large (\u3e2.5 m), but transitioned to long period swell. In addition, spatial variations in the amount of beach volume change during the building portion of the storm were strongly correlated with observed wave dissipation within the inner surf zone, as opposed to predicted inundation elevations or alongshore variations in wave height

Video-Based Nearshore Bathymetric Inversion on a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach during Storm Events

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d’Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θp: (1) under deflection configuration (θp>0°), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration (θp<0°), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration (θp=0°), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions.Comprendre et prévoir l'évolution contemporaine du traite de côte dans un contexte de changement climatique par assimilation de données satellite dans les modèles hybride

Assessment and validation of bathymetric inversion techniques using synthetic waves

Bathymetric inversion using video images is a new and promising technique in order to monitor beach morphology. In this TFG, a Boussinesq model called FunWave and a linear wave propagation routine will be used to create synthetic wave propagation over different bathymetries. Two bathymetric inversion methodologies will be subsequently applied to retrieve the bathymetry, comparing their results and analysing their sensitivity to different aspects, in order to understand and improve their performance

Hybrid approach to estimating nearshore bathymetry using remote sensing

The characterization of bathymetry and its time evolution is very important for both oceanographic science applications, and for societal reasons relating to coastal engineering and development. Historically, the process of depth surveying has been costly and labor-intensive. This is especially true in nearshore regions, hence a method that is both economic and reliable is of great interest. In this regard, depth inversion techniques take advantage of the interaction between the surface wave field and the underlying bathymetry such that observations of surface wave propagation can be coupled with a dispersion relation to infer bathymetry. Using field measurements, several different types of wave observation data have been tested in inversion methods, e.g. arrays of pressure sensors (Holland, 2001), marine radar (Bell, 1999), aerial photogrammetry (Dugan et al., 2001) and video imagery (Stockdon and Holman, 2000). Typically, these studies use the linear wave dispersion relation and measured wave phase speeds (c) to perform the inversion, and agreement is generally good in intermediate water depths in the absence of currents; errors increase as waves enter shallow water, increase in nonlinearity, and eventually break. In addition, numerical techniques exist that account for some nonlinear processes (e.g. Kennedy et al., 2000b; Misra et al., 2003) but they require more input data, usually in the form of high resolution free surface measurements. These nonlinear methods can potentially make improved depth estimates, however, they have only been tested with synthetic data. In this study, we undertake a novel approach for investigating phase speeds of nonlinear waves and the potential for using them for depth inversions. The approach is novel in the sense that our observational data set consists of both in situ and remotely sensed data and also high resolution numerical data for interpolating between the in situ measurements. Our observations were made from a set of laboratory experiments conducted in large scale wave flume. Laboratory wave conditions included both regular and random waves and a range of wave heights and periods were considered. The final data set used for the depth inversion algorithm was reduced to regular cases only. The wave height profile H(x) is simulated with high spatial resolution using a combined refraction/difraction model REF/DIF1 (Kirby and Dairymple, 1994), where the in situ data is used for calibration. Next, wave parameters such as phase speed, wavenumber and frequency are estimated based on the remote video measurements. The resulting hybrid data set is used as input for performing depth inversion including nonlinearity using the composite dispersion relation of Kirby and Dalrymple (1986). Results indicate that inclusion of nonlinearity significantly improves the retrieved depths, especially in shallow water. The resulting degree of accuracy is comparable with previous observations for intermediate water. Analysis of the error suggests that the main source of error can be attributed to the phase speed estimation, thus it is apparent that the composite dispersion equation is capable of explaining the principal physical process well