Current effects on scattering of surface gravity waves by bottom topography

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal currents are often significant. A perturbation expansion of the wave action to second order in powers of the bottom amplitude yields an evolution equation for the wave action spectrum. A scattering source term gives the rate of exchange of the wave action spectrum between wave components, with conservation of the total action at each absolute frequency. With and without current, the scattering term yields reflection coefficients for the amplitudes of waves that converge, to the results of previous theories for monochromatic waves propagating in one dimension over sinusoidal bars. Over sandy continental shelves, tidal currents are known to generate sandwaves with scales comparable to those of surface waves. Application of the theory to such a real topography suggests that scattering mainly results in a broadening of the directional wave spectrum, due to forward scattering, while the back-scattering is generally weaker. The current may strongly influence surface gravity wave scattering by selecting different bottom scales with widely different spectral densities due the sharp bottom spectrum roll-off.Comment: submitted to Journal of Fluid Mechanics 7 Oct 200

Noise generation in the solid Earth, oceans, and atmosphere, from non-linear interacting surface gravity waves in finite depth

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface gravity waves. Most of this noise is explained by a nonlinear wave-wave interaction mechanism, and takes the form of surface gravity waves, acoustic or seismic waves. Previous theoretical works on seismic noise focused on surface (Rayleigh) waves, and did not consider finite depth effects on the generating wave kinematics. These finite depth effects are introduced here, which requires the consideration of the direct wave-induced pressure at the ocean bottom, a contribution previously overlooked in the context of seismic noise. That contribution can lead to a considerable reduction of the seismic noise source, which is particularly relevant for noise periods larger than 10 s. The theory is applied to acoustic waves in the atmosphere, extending previous theories that were limited to vertical propagation only. Finally, the noise generation theory is also extended beyond the domain of Rayleigh waves, giving the first quantitative expression for sources of seismic body waves. In the limit of slow phase speeds in the ocean wave forcing, the known and well-verified gravity wave result is obtained, which was previously derived for an incompressible ocean. The noise source of acoustic, acoustic-gravity and seismic modes are given by a mode-specific amplification of the same wave-induced pressure field near the zero wavenumber.Comment: Paper accepted for publication in the Journal of Fluid Mechanic

Comments on "The Depth-Dependent Current and Wave Interaction Equations: A Revision"

Equations for the wave-averaged three-dimensional momentum equations have been published in this journal. It appears that these equations are not consistent with the known depth-integrated momentum balance, especially over a sloping bottom. These equations should thus be considered with caution as they can produce erroneous flows, in particular outside of the surf zone. It is suggested that the inconsistency in the equations may arise from the different averaging operators applied to the different terms of the momentum equation. It is concluded that other forms of the momentum equations, expressed in terms of the quasi-Eulerian velocity, are better suited for three dimensional modelling of wave-current interactions.Comment: Paper submitted to J. Phys. Oceanog

Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: Part I, definition, calibration and validation

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, the swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and dissipation due to wave breaking is non-zero only when a non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced to represent the dissipation of short waves due to longer breaking waves. Several degrees of freedom are introduced in the wave breaking and the wind-wave generation term of Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from gentle swells to major hurricanes, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations yield the best overall results to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.Comment: revised version for Journal of Physical Oceanograph

Evolution of surface gravity waves over a submarine canyon

The effects of a submarine canyon on the propagation of ocean surface waves are examined with a three-dimensional coupled-mode model for wave propagation over steep topography. Whereas the classical geometrical optics approximation predicts an abrupt transition from complete transmission at small incidence angles to no transmission at large angles, the full model predicts a more gradual transition with partial reflection/transmission that is sensitive to the canyon geometry and controlled by evanescent modes for small incidence angles and relatively short waves. Model results for large incidence angles are compared with data from directional wave buoys deployed around the rim and over Scripps Canyon, near San Diego, California, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX). Wave heights are observed to decay across the canyon by about a factor 5 over a distance shorter than a wavelength. Yet, a spectral refraction model predicts an even larger reduction by about a factor 10, because low frequency components cannot cross the canyon in the geometrical optics approximation. The coupled-mode model yields accurate results over and behind the canyon. These results show that although most of the wave energy is refractively trapped on the offshore rim of the canyon, a small fraction of the wave energy 'tunnels' across the canyon. Simplifications of the model that reduce it to the standard and modified mild slope equations also yield good results, indicating that evanescent modes and high order bottom slope effects are of minor importance for the energy transformation of waves propagating across depth contours at large oblique angles

On the coupling of wave and three-dimensional circulation models : Choice of theoretical framework, practical implementation and adiabatic tests

Many theoretical approaches and implementations have been proposed for the coupling of the three-dimensional ocean circulation with waves. The theoretical models are reviewed and it is shown that the formulation in terms of the quasi-Eulerian velocity circumvents the essential difficulty of alternative formulations for the Lagrangian mean velocity. Namely, models based on this Lagrangian velocity require an estimation of wave-induced motions to first order in the horizontal gradients of the wave field in order to estimate the vertical flux of wave pseudo-momentum. So far, only three-dimensional wave models have been able to provide these estimates, and all published theories based on the simpler Airy theory are not consistent at the leading order, because they ignore or incorrectly estimate the vertical momentum flux. With an adiabatic example on a sloping bottom it is shown that this inconsistency produces very large spurious velocities. These errors are independent of the slope for the inviscid case, and are still significant when a realistic vertical mixing is applied. A quick diagnostic of the potential accuracy of a theoretical model is the vertical profile of the wave-induced forcing terms: if it is not uniform over depth in adiabatic conditions then it will produce spurious artificial flow patterns in conditions with shoaling waves. Although conceptually more challenging, the quasi-Eulerian velocity theories only introduce minor modifications of the solution procedure for the standard primitive equations: a modification of the surface boundary condition for the mass conservation, the addition of the Stokes drift in the tracer advection equations, and sources of momentum and turbulent kinetic energy with associated surface and bottom fluxes. All the necessary modifications of primitive equation models are given in detail. This implementation is illustrated with the MARS3D model, which passes the test of the adiabatic shoaling waves

Topographical scattering of waves: a spectral approach

The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra, and evaluates a Bragg scattering source term that is theoretically valid for small bottom and surface slopes and slowly varying spectral properties. The robustness of the model is tested for a variety of topographies uniform along one horizontal dimension including nearly sinusoidal, linear ramp and step profiles. Results are compared with reflections computed using an accurate method that applies integral matching along vertical boundaries of a series of steps. For small bottom amplitudes, the source term representation yields accurate reflection estimates even for a localized scatterer. This result is proved for small bottom amplitudes $h$ relative to the mean water depth $H$. Wave reflection by small amplitude bottom topography thus depends primarily on the bottom elevation variance at the Bragg resonance scales, and is insensitive to the detailed shape of the bottom profile. Relative errors in the energy reflection coefficient are found to be typically $2h/H$.Comment: Second revision for Journal of Waterways Ports and Coastal Engineerin