A data set of sea surface stereo images to resolve space-time wave fields

Stereo imaging of the sea surface elevation provides unique field data to investigate the geometry and dynamics of oceanic waves. Typically, this technique allows retrieving the 4-D ocean topography (3-D space + time) at high frequency (up to 15–20 Hz) over a sea surface region of area ~104 m2. Stereo data fill the existing wide gap between sea surface elevation time-measurements, like the local observation provided by wave-buoys, and large-scale ocean observations by satellites. The analysis of stereo images provides a direct measurement of the wavefield without the need of any linear-wave theory assumption, so it is particularly interesting to investigate the nonlinearities of the surface, wave-current interaction, rogue waves, wave breaking, air-sea interaction, and potentially other processes not explored yet. In this context, this open dataset aims to provide, for the first time, valuable stereo measurements collected in different seas and wave conditions to invite the ocean-wave scientific community to continue exploring these data and to contribute to a better understanding of the nature of the sea surface dynamics

On the shape and likelihood of oceanic rogue waves

We consider the observation and analysis of oceanic rogue waves collected within spatio-Temporal (ST) records of 3D wave fields. This class of records, allowing a sea surface region to be retrieved, is appropriate for the observation of rogue waves, which come up as a random phenomenon that can occur at any time and location of the sea surface. To verify this aspect, we used three stereo wave imaging systems to gather ST records of the sea surface elevation, which were collected in different sea conditions. The wave with the ST maximum elevation (happening to be larger than the rogue threshold 1.25H s) was then isolated within each record, along with its temporal profile. The rogue waves show similar profiles, in agreement with the theory of extreme wave groups. We analyze the rogue wave probability of occurrence, also in the context of ST extreme value distributions, and we conclude that rogue waves are more likely than previously reported; the key point is coming across them, in space as well as in time. The dependence of the rogue wave profile and likelihood on the sea state conditions is also investigated. Results may prove useful in predicting extreme wave occurrence probability and strength during oceanic storms

Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs

International audienceWave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low-to-mild-sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < taní µí»½ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave parameters are used to force a high-resolution wave model, and nearshore wave parameters and high-resolution topographic data are analyzed concurrently with runup time series in order to assess the dependence of the runup on hydrodynamic conditions and morphological parameters. The wave runup is shown to be strongly related to the square root of the offshore significant wave height times the offshore wavelength. The measurements also reveal the depth dependence of the runup, which is mainly attributed to the curvature of the foreshore profile. In comparison to empirical relation obtained for a mild-sloping beach, the present data show a significant reduction in normalized wave runup, that is attributed to enhanced bottom friction over the rocky bottom

La Jument Lighthouse: a real scale laboratory for the study of giant waves and their loading on marine structures

International audienceThis paper presents results from an experiment designed to improve the understanding of the relation between extreme breaking waves and their mechanical loading on heritage offshore lighthouses. The experiment, conducted at La Jument, an iconic French offshore lighthouse, featured several records of wave, current and structure accelerations acquired during severe storm conditions, with individual waves as high as 24 m. Data analysis focuses on a storm event marked by a strong peak in the horizontal accelerations measured inside La Jument. Thanks to stereo-video wave measurements synchronized to the acceleration record we were able to identify and describe the breaking wave responsible for this intense loading. Our observations suggest that this giant wave (19 m high) had a crest elevation high enough to directly hit the lighthouse tower, above the substructure. This paper reveals the potential for conducting ambitious field experiments from offshore lighthouses in order to collect valuable storm waves and wave loading observations. This offers a possible second service life for these heritage structures as in situ laboratories dedicated to the study of the coastal hydrodynamics and its interaction with marine structures

Wave Turbulence: A Set of Stochastic Nonlinear Waves in Interaction

International audienceWave turbulence concerns the study of dynamical and statistical properties of a field of random nonlinear waves in interaction. Although it occurs in various situations (ocean surface waves, internal waves in geophysics, Alfvén waves in astrophysical plasmas, or nonlinear waves in optics), well-controlled laboratory experiments on wave turbulence are relatively scarce despite the experimental efforts of the last decade. At the ICAND2018 conference, I presented a short review on laboratory experiments on wave turbulence on the surface of a fluid. I notably discussed the role of strongly nonlinear waves to better describe the dynamics of ocean waves. Here, I report some results obtained by our group on wave turbulence, performed in different experimental systems

Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts

Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated “short waves” (typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1–10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently sloping beaches, IG waves can dissipate a substantial amount of energy through depth-limited breaking. When the bottom is very rough, such as in coral reef environments, a substantial amount of energy can be dissipated through bottom friction. IG wave energy that is not dissipated is reflected seaward, predominantly for the lowest IG frequencies and on steep bottom slopes. This reflection of the lowest IG frequencies can result in the development of standing (also known as stationary) waves. Reflected IG waves can be refractively trapped so that quasi-periodic along-shore patterns, also referred to as edge waves, can develop. IG waves have a large range of implications in the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of coastal zones. For example, they can modulate current velocities in rip channels and strongly influence cross-shore and longshore mixing. On sandy beaches, IG waves can strongly impact the water table and associated groundwater flows. On gently sloping beaches and especially under storm conditions, IG waves can dominate cross-shore sediment transport, generally promoting offshore transport inside the surfzone. Under storm conditions, IG waves can also induce overwash and eventually promote dune erosion and barrier breaching. In tidal inlets, IG waves can propagate into the back-barrier lagoon during the flood phase and induce large modulations of currents and sediment transport. Their effect appears to be smaller during the ebb phase, due to blocking by countercurrents, particularly in shallow systems. On coral and rocky reefs, IG waves can dominate over short-waves and control the hydro-sedimentary dynamics over the reef flat and in the lagoon. In harbors and semi-enclosed basins, free IG waves can be amplified by resonance and induce large seiches (resonant oscillations). Lastly, free IG waves that are generated in the nearshore can cross oceans and they can also explain the development of the Earth's “hum” (background free oscillations of the solid earth)

Laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed: Drifter measurements

International audienceThis study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated. The seabed varied from reasonably alongshore uniform to strongly alongshore nonuniform with crescentic patterns and bar-rip morphologies, representative of a full morphological down-state sequence. The same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker for the eight situations with the same mean water level to study the sensitivity of rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 30 to 60 min video run was used to track a large number of drifters released within the surf zone. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counterrotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet varying from shore-normal to strongly skewed. Wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviations of flow intensity and direction provide high-resolution information on the spatial variability of rip current instabilities. Highly pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow is observed in the rip neck for well-developed bar-rip morphologies that turns into a weakly pulsating and highly directional variable rip current flow with decreasing beach alongshore nonuniformity. Proposing a definition of rip current intensity based on the rip current circulation geometry, rip current intensity was found to linearly increase with increasing measure of beach alongshore nonuniformity within both the low-energy and moderate-energy rip current regimes. To date, our laboratory experiment provides the first extensive quantitative rip current information during a full down-state sequence for a given wave condition

Perspectives of European Patient Advocacy Groups on Volunteer Registries and Vaccine Trials: VACCELERATE Survey Study

Background: The VACCELERATE Pan-European Scientific network aims to strengthen the foundation of vaccine trial research across Europe by following the principles of equity, inclusion, and diversity. The VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry network provides access to vaccine trial sites across the European region and supports a sustainable volunteer platform for identifying potential participants for forthcoming vaccine clinical research. Objective: The aim of this study was to approach members of patient advocacy groups (PAGs) across Europe to assess their willingness to register for the VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry and their perspectives related to participating in vaccine trials. Methods: In an effort to understand how to increase recruitment for the VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry, a standardized survey was developed in English and translated into 8 different languages (Dutch, English, French, German, Greek, Italian, Spanish, and Swedish) by the respective National Coordinator team. The online, anonymous survey was circulated, from March 2022 to May 2022, to PAGs across 10 European countries (Belgium, Cyprus, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Spain, and Sweden) to share with their members. The questionnaire constituted of multiple choice and open-ended questions evaluating information regarding participants' perceptions on participating in vaccine trials and their willingness to become involved in the VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry. Results: In total, 520 responses were collected and analyzed. The PAG members reported that the principal criteria influencing their decision to participate in clinical trials overall are (1) the risks involved, (2) the benefits that will be gained from their potential participation, and (3) the quality and quantity of information provided regarding the trial. The survey revealed that, out of the 520 respondents, 133 individuals across all age groups were "positive" toward registering in the VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry, with an additional 47 individuals reporting being "very positive." Respondents from Northern European countries were 1.725 (95% CI 1.206-2.468) times more likely to be willing to participate in the VACCELERATE Volunteer Registry than respondents from Southern European countries. Conclusions: Factors discouraging participants from joining vaccine trial registries or clinical trials primarily include concerns of the safety of novel vaccines and a lack of trust in those involved in vaccine development. These outcomes aid in identifying issues and setbacks in present registries, providing the VACCELERATE network with feedback on how to potentially increase participation and enrollment in trials across Europe. Development of European health communication strategies among diverse public communities, especially via PAGs, is the key for increasing patients' willingness to participate in clinical studies