Development of a flexible customised compression garment pattern design system

The paper investigated a new method that can be used to develop a 3D customized compression garment model for athlete.The developed system is able to design the compression garment based on the athlete body data, type of fabric and pressure for their top performance.The outcome of the research is a system that not only can design a customized compression garment, but also flexible enough to be used to create a variety of compression garment that can exert different pressure

Development of a flexible customized compression garment design system

The paper investigated a new method that can be used to develop a 3D customized compression garment model for athlete. The developed system is able to design the compression garment based on the athlete body data, type of fabric and pressure for their top performance. The outcome of the research is a system that not only can design a customized compression garment, but also flexible enough to be used to create a variety of compression garment that can exert different pressure

An investigation on the framework of dressing virtual humans

This thesis was submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy and awarded by Brunel University.Realistic human models are widely used in variety of applications. Much research has been carried out on improving realism of virtual humans from various aspects, such as body shapes, hair, and facial expressions and so on. In most occasions, these virtual humans need to wear garments. However, it is time-consuming and tedious to dress a human model using current software packages [Maya2004]. Several methods for dressing virtual humans have been proposed recently [Bourguignon2001, Turquin2004, Turquin2007 and Wang2003B]. The method proposed by Bourguignon et al [Bourguignon2001] can only generate 3D garment contour instead of 3D surface. The method presented by Turquin et al. [Turquin2004, Turquin2007] could generate various kinds of garments from sketches but their garments followed the shape of the body and the side of a garment looked not convincing because of using simple linear interpolation. The method proposed by Wang et al. [Wang2003B] lacked interactivity from users, so users had very limited control on the garment shape.This thesis proposes a framework for dressing virtual humans to obtain convincing dressing results, which overcomes problems existing in previous papers mentioned above by using nonlinear interpolation, level set-based shape modification, feature constraints and so on. Human models used in this thesis are reconstructed from real human body data obtained using a body scanning system. Semantic information is then extracted from human models to assist in generation of 3 dimensional (3D) garments. The proposed framework allows users to dress virtual humans using garment patterns and sketches. The proposed dressing method is based on semantic virtual humans. A semantic human model is a human body with semantic information represented by certain of structure and body features. The semantic human body is reconstructed from body scanned data from a real human body. After segmenting the human model into six parts some key features are extracted. These key features are used as constraints for garment construction.Simple 3D garment patterns are generated using the techniques of sweep and offset. To dress a virtual human, users just choose a garment pattern, which is put on the human body at the default position with a default size automatically. Users are allowed to change simple parameters to specify some sizes of a garment by sketching the desired position on the human body.To enable users to dress virtual humans by their own design styles in an intuitive way, this thesis proposes an approach for garment generation from user-drawn sketches. Users can directly draw sketches around reconstructed human bodies and then generates 3D garments based on user-drawn strokes. Some techniques for generating 3D garments and dressing virtual humans are proposed. The specific focus of the research lies in generation of 3D geometric garments, garment shape modification, local shape modification, garment surface processing and decoration creation. A sketch-based interface has been developed allowing users to draw garment contour representing the front-view shape of a garment, and the system can generate a 3D geometric garment surface accordingly. To improve realism of a garment surface, this thesis presents three methods as follows. Firstly, the procedure of garment vertices generation takes key body features as constraints. Secondly, an optimisation algorithm is carried out after generation of garment vertices to optimise positions of garment vertices. Finally, some mesh processing schemes are applied to further process the garment surface. Then, an elaborate 3D geometric garment surface can be obtained through this series of processing. Finally, this thesis proposes some modification and editing methods. The user-drawn sketches are processed into spline curves, which allow users to modify the existing garment shape by dragging the control points into desired positions. This makes it easy for users to obtain a more satisfactory garment shape compared with the existing one. Three decoration tools including a 3D pen, a brush and an embroidery tool, are provided letting users decorate the garment surface by adding some small 3D details such as brand names, symbols and so on. The prototype of the framework is developed using Microsoft Visual Studio C++,OpenGL and GPU programming

A review of contemporary techniques for measuring ergonomic wear comfort of protective and sport clothing

Protective and sport clothing is governed by protection requirements, performance, and comfort of the user. The comfort and impact performance of protective and sport clothing are typically subjectively measured, and this is a multifactorial and dynamic process. The aim of this review paper is to review the contemporary methodologies and approaches for measuring ergonomic wear comfort, including objective and subjective techniques. Special emphasis is given to the discussion of different methods, such as objective techniques, subjective techniques, and a combination of techniques, as well as a new biomechanical approach called modeling of skin. Literature indicates that there are four main techniques to measure wear comfort: subjective evaluation, objective measurements, a combination of subjective and objective techniques, and computer modeling of human–textile interaction. In objective measurement methods, the repeatability of results is excellent, and quantified results are obtained, but in some cases, such quantified results are quite different from the real perception of human comfort. Studies indicate that subjective analysis of comfort is less reliable than objective analysis because human subjects vary among themselves. Therefore, it can be concluded that a combination of objective and subjective measuring techniques could be the valid approach to model the comfort of textile materials

Sonic City: Prototyping a wearable experience

Sonic City is a project exploring mobile interaction and wearable technology for everyday music creation. A wearable system has been developed that creates electronic music in real-time based on sensing bodily and environmental factors - thus, a personal soundscape is co-produced by physical movement, local activity, and urban ambiance simply by walking through the city. Applying multi-disciplinary methods, we have developed the wearable from a scenario-driven, aesthetic and lifestyle perspective. A garment has been crafted for 'trying on' interaction and wearabilty options with users on-site in the city. With this prototype, we have been able to expore and rapidly iterate context and content, social and human factors of the wearable application

SIZING FOR A SPECIAL GROUP OF PEOPLE: BEST PRACTICE OF HUMAN BODY SCANNING

Due to new circumstances of living, climate and environmental changes, varieties of human body shapes are growing. Therefore, obtaining uniformly clothes for special issues in the group of people with similar interests (dancing groups, choirs, etc.) are getting more and more complex. Besides the self-estimation and perception about the shape and size of the person varies due to different sizing from brand to brand. To dress-up the group of people with different sizes in uniformly way is not an easy task for the supplier – even if the model chosen for the gown is casual, most of the producers doesn’t apply a large scale of sizes. Frequently sizing systems do not fit to the needs of the end-users. Size marked on the clothing describes only some information about body size, if any. Therefore, part of clothing supplied is not suitable for end-user groups, but if already purchased it is decided to discard them. Such a set of circumstances, in contrast to global progress towards sustainable development, which is also based on environmental responsibility, can serve as a contributing factor to further growth in clothing consumption. The main purpose of this study is to make an insight into sizing approaches for a special group of people focusing on the best practice of human body 3D scanning. The paper outlines a certain target group’s understanding of the clothing size correspondence to their individual body characteristics. Advantages of human body scanning for analysing of body characteristics and solving sizing issues are discussed. Within the study, anthropometric data sets of 50 women group were obtained using a 3D scanner to develop the distribution of this special group into size groups and analyse individual body measurements that are significant for the design of appropriate garment patterns. Conclusions made in this paper acknowledge 3D scanning as an advantageous method for anthropometric data obtaining which are determinate for garment design and sizing system development

Textiles as Material Gestalt: Cloth as a Catalyst in the Co-designing Process

Textiles is the common language within Emotional Fit, a collaborative research project investigating a person-centred, sustainable approach to fashion for an ageing female demographic (55+). Through the co-designing of a collection of research tools, textiles have acted as a material gestalt for exploring our research participants' identities by tracing their embodied knowledge of fashionable dress. The methodology merges Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis, co-design and a simultaneous approach to textile and garment design. Based on an enhanced understanding of our participants textile preferences, particular fabric qualities have catalysed silhouettes, through live draping and geometric pattern cutting to accommodate multiple body shapes and customisation. Printedtextiles have also been digitally crafted in response to the contours of the garment and body and personal narratives of wear. Sensorial and tactile interactions have informed the engineering and scaling of patterns within zero-waste volumes. The article considers the functional and aesthetic role of textiles

The spiral relationship between suffering and the production of fashionable clothes

In this article, I explore relationships between suffering and the production of fashionable clothes. In the commercial struggle for survival many fashionable styles are discarded while some remain durable due to their adaptability to new trends and creative ideas. The aim of the research was to investigate how suffering initiates these changes in the creative process of fashion design. This was examined through a number of methodologies, which included object-based research and ethnography. The research findings indicate that suffering within the fashion industry can be a positive attribute. It can influence the way clothes are produced and the skills necessary to produce them. A model depicting the connection between suffering and fashion is posited as a tentative theory suggesting there is a spiral relationship in that changes in fashion production and consumption resulting from suffering evolve into a spiral of further suffering impacting on the future of fashion design and manufacture