233 research outputs found

    An Enhanced Spectral Boundary Integral Method for Modeling Highly Nonlinear Water Waves in Variable Depth

    Full text link
    This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived based on the boundary integral equation considering the water depth variability. A successive approximation scheme is also proposed in this study for calculating the surface vertical velocity. With the usage of Fast Fourier Transform, the model can be efficiently used for simulating highly nonlinear water waves on large spatiotemporal scale in a phase-resolving approach. The new model is comprehensively verified and validated through simulating a variety of nonlinear wave phenomenon including free propagating solitary wave, wave transformations over submerged bar, Bragg reflection over undulating bars, nonlinear evolution of Peregrine breather, obliquely propagating uniform waves and extreme waves in crossing random seas. Good agreements are achieved between the numerical simulations and laboratory measurements, indicating that the new model is sufficiently accurate. A discussion is presented on the accuracy and efficiency of the present model, which is compared with the Higher-Order Spectral method. The results show that the present model can be significantly more efficient at the same level of accuracy. It is suggested that the new model developed in the paper can be reliably used to simulate the nonlinear evolution of ocean waves in phase-resolving approach to shed light on the dynamics of nonlinear wave phenomenon taking place on a large spatiotemporal scale, which may be computationally expensive by using other existing methods

    Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

    Full text link
    Effects of wave-wave interactions on ocean swell are studied. Results of extensive simulations of swell evolution within the duration-limited setup for the kinetic Hasselmann equation at long times up to 10610^6 seconds are presented. Basic solutions of the theory of weak turbulence, the so-called Kolmogorov-Zakharov solutions, are shown to be relevant to the results of the simulations. Features of self-similarity of wave spectra are detailed and their impact on methods of ocean swell monitoring are discussed. Essential drop of wave energy (wave height) due to wave-wave interactions is found to be pronounced at initial stages of swell evolution (of order of 1000 km for typical parameters of the ocean swell). At longer times wave-wave interactions are responsible for a universal angular distribution of wave spectra in a wide range of initial conditions.Comment: Submitted to Journal of Geophysical Research 18 July 201

    Experimental evidence of hydrodynamic instantons : the universal route to rogue waves

    Get PDF
    A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are mechanically generated and free to propagate along the flume. Strong evidence is given that the rogue waves observed in the tank are hydrodynamic instantons, that is, saddle point configurations of the action associated with the stochastic model of the wave system. As shown here, these hydrodynamic instantons are complex spatiotemporal wave field configurations which can be defined using the mathematical framework of large deviation theory and calculated via tailored numerical methods. These results indicate that the instantons describe equally well rogue waves created by simple linear superposition (in weakly nonlinear conditions) or by nonlinear focusing (in strongly nonlinear conditions), paving the way for the development of a unified explanation to rogue wave formation

    Storm Tide and Wave Simulations and Assessment

    Get PDF
    In this Special Issue, seven high-quality papers covering the application and development of many high-end techniques for studies on storm tides, surges, and waves have been published, for instance, the employment of an artificial neural network for predicting coastal freak waves [1]; a reproduction of super typhoon-created extreme waves [2]; a numerical analysis of nonlinear interactions for storm waves, tides, and currents [3]; wave simulation for an island using a circulation–wave coupled model [4]; an analysis of typhoon-induced waves along typhoon tracks in the western North Pacific Ocean [5]; an understanding of how a storm surge prevents or severely restricts aeolian supply [6]; and an investigation of coastal settlements and an assessment of their vulnerability [7]
    • …
    corecore