Guise et déguisement: L’enfant acteur vestimentaire dans la France moderne et contemporaine

Written by the adults and for the adults, the history of children’s fashion hardly ever mentions the interaction between children and their clothes. However, the restrospective review of the archives of childhood reveals to an aware observer the ability for the child to appropriate a material culture initially designed for a purpose of education and socialisation. Through the time, space and social groups, in their free play and in their supervised activities, children evidence an ability to divert the material culture conceived and made by the adults. Analysing the interactions between children as users and the adults as makers and from an object based perspective, this interdisciplinary research will question the ability for the child to appropriate their everyday clothes. It will explore the benefits of their inclusion as makers in a creative process handled by the adults and aiming to socialise a becoming adult

When West meets East: Towards an educative journey in nineteenth century Western Children’s Fashion

Based on the original study of French Museum collections and fashion archives, this paper explores the rationale behind the Eastern European trend identified from 1860 until 1915 in western children’s fashion. The mechanisms involved in this inspiration are analysed in the historical context of a conflicted European landscape, where the modernisation of society and the industrialisation of the fashion industry question the traditional social patterns. Exploring beyond this context, this paper will establish the meaning of this style for a socialising child and the educational role of clothing

TIMASSS: The IRAS16293-2422 Millimeter And Submillimeter Spectral Survey. I. Observations, calibration and analysis of the line kinematics

While unbiased surveys observable from ground-based telescopes have previously been obtained towards several high mass protostars, very little exists on low mass protostars. To fill up this gap, we carried out a complete spectral survey of the bands at 3, 2, 1 and 0.8 mm towards the solar type protostar IRAS16293-2422. The observations covered about 200\,GHz and were obtained with the IRAM-30m and JCMT-15m telescopes. Particular attention was devoted to the inter-calibration of the obtained spectra with previous observations. All the lines detected with more than 3 sigma and free from obvious blending effects were fitted with Gaussians to estimate their basic kinematic properties. More than 4000 lines were detected (with sigma \geq 3) and identified, yielding a line density of approximatively 20 lines per GHz, comparable to previous surveys in massive hot cores. The vast majority (~2/3) of the lines are weak and due to complex organic molecules. The analysis of the profiles of more than 1000 lines belonging 70 species firmly establishes the presence of two distinct velocity components, associated with the two objects, A and B, forming the IRAS16293-2422 binary system. In the source A, the line widths of several species increase with the upper level energy of the transition, a behavior compatible with gas infalling towards a ~1 Mo object. The source B, which does not show this effect, might have a much lower central mass of ~0.1 Mo. The difference in the rest velocities of both objects is consistent with the hypothesis that the source B rotates around the source A. This spectral survey, although obtained with single-dish telescope with a low spatial resolution, allows to separate the emission from 2 different components, thanks to the large number of lines detected. The data of the survey are public and can be retrieved on the web site http://www-laog.obs.ujf-grenoble.fr/heberges/timasss.Comment: 41 pages (26 pages of online Tables), 7 Tables and 6 Figure

Chanel and Scotland

Bernat Klein (1922-2014) was a designer of national and international standing who transformed the Borders textile industry during the 30 years throughout which he was an advocate for design. Throughout his career as a textile designer, but also as an artist, colourist and industrialist, Bernat Klein has contributed to the reputation of the Scottish Borders textile industry. Selling his creative tweeds around the globe, Bernat Klein supplied Haute Couture Houses such as Chanel with astonishing and highly recognizable colourful tweeds. This fabric, inspired by the texture and the colours of the Scottish Borders, and designated in the fashion magazines of the time as Scottish Mohair, contributed, for example, to the success of the iconic “Tailleur Chanel” in 1963 as mentioned in Bernat Klein’s memoires (Klein, 1965). However, despite the impact of this collaboration identified thanks to a couple of mentions and press cuts, very few is known about Bernat Klein activity with the Parisian Haute Couture in general and Chanel in particular

Du musée à la thèse: vers un modèle d’étude du vêtement de l’enfant

Children education consists in the socialisation of little people who, in constant interdependence with the adult, have to be brought into history and imbued with the habits defining our ethnicity. Through the analysis of the capacity of Fashion to dress the identities, this research approaches clothing as an education tool in the hands of the adults. In parallel, as a technical handling kit, a set of sensations and an object of desire, clothing is an adoptable system by the child. In order to avoid an adult focus, this article looks at the deconstruction of this socialisation process by analysing the appropriation of fashion by children. Therefore, this study of children’s clothing provides another approach to Childhood History and shows the essential contribution of the study of the Material Culture to a Childhood Sociology, source of knowledge of the mechanisms of our society

Heritage and contemporary children’s fashion: Case study - The repositioning of the socio-cultural values of the brand Jacadi Paris (2006-2010)

Echoing adult’s memories of childhood, the concept of nostalgia is intimately related to children’s material culture in the Global North. Children are educated in an environment referring to their family history and that way, they shape their own identity. As a socialising medium, children’s dress code is used to reinforce this linkage and contributes to the specificity of children’s fashion. This is reflected in contemporary childrenswear, where a lineage of brands offers a cyclical reinterpretation of a timeless repertoire inspired by centennial styles. As part of this landscape of “heritage” labels, Jacadi was created in 1976 and joined the holding IDKids.Community in 2005. This milestone coincides with a rebranding aiming to strengthen the D.N.A. of this company. This chapter presents the process undertaken to establish Jacadi’s anchorage in the history of children’s fashion, thanks to the repositioning of its socio-cultural values and the identification of its imagined heritage. The articulation between storytelling, visual analysis, and object-based research led to the creation of a consistent collaborative tool reinforcing the legacy of the brand. This reveals how consistent scientific methods can be used by the fashion industry to ground an emotional approach of children’s dress code aiming to bond the generations

Children’s clothing vs children’s fashion: the construction of childhood in fashion. Contextual and design approaches of the childrenswear apparel in the Global North.

This paper is based on the analysis of the design process in the contemporary childrenswear, combined with the study of the fashion apparel. The observation of an industry, maintained in a model inherited from the period of democratisation of fashion (prior to WW2), serves the understanding of a childrenswear apparel based on the distinction between genders. From this contextual approach, this research will measure the gap between the beliefs on consumers’ expectations, and the constant evolution of children’s education questioning this binary approach of childhood in the Global North. When policy makers and educational institutions are addressing these changes, the fashion industry remains behind. However, from high-end to high-street, from niche labels to mainstream offers, this research analyses a series of brands contributing to an innovative and visionary evolution of childrenswear. Meanwhile, a focus on children, as users, allows the understanding of their appropriation and diversion of a gendered fashion generated by adults as makers as well as co-consumers

Playing through clothes: Clothes as a creative tool in the School environment, an explorative approach of the role of clothing in the public primary education, in contemporary Northern Europe

Led by the French National Museum of Education and Heriot-Watt University (UK), “Dressed for School” involves a group of interdisciplinary researchers, educators and design practitioners, aiming to analyse the interactions between children and their clothes at school. As part of this project, a series of case studies and design projects focuses on the functional and creative approach of children’s clothing at school. This comparative approach – mixing anthropological methods and practice-based research with and on school aged children – offers a comparative approach between Scotland and France. This paper presents the findings gathered at an intermediary stage of an interdisciplinary project ongoing until 2022, and their evaluation thanks to cross-disciplinary and mixed methods. Placing the child at the heart of the process, in well identified contexts, this research provides educationally impactful pilots where clothes are considered as legitimate components of a “Learning through play” approach. This research highlights the need for more consideration of children as users and co-designers of their own clothes. Using the COVID-19 “opportunity” to observe children in unprecedented experiences, this impactful research project invites industry and policy makers to identify clothing with a different approach. Indeed, this project questions clothing as a support for learning, a socialising and creative tool, and as having a legitimate role to play in children’s education