Influence of convex and concave curvatures in a coastal dike line on wave run-up

Due to climatic change and the increased usage of coastal areas, there is an increasing risk of dike failures along the coasts worldwide. Wave run-up plays a key role in the planning and design of a coastal structure. Coastal engineers use empirical equations for the determination of wave run-up. These formulae generally include the influence of various hydraulic, geometrical and structural parameters, but neglect the effect of the curvature of coastal dikes on wave run-up and overtopping. The scope of this research is to find the effects of the dike curvature on wave run-up for regular wave attack by employing numerical model studies for various dike-opening angles and comparing it with physical model test results. A numerical simulation is carried out using DualSPHysics, a mesh-less model and OpenFOAM, a mesh-based model. A new influence factor is introduced to determine the influence of curvature along a dike line. For convexly curved dikes (ad = 210° to 270°) under perpendicular wave attack, a higher wave run-up was observed for larger opening angles at the center of curvature whereas for concavely curved dikes (ad = 90° to 150°) under perpendicular wave attack, wave run-up increases at the center of curvature as the opening angle decreases. This research aims to contribute a more precise analysis and understanding the influence of the curvature in a dike line and thus ensuring a higher level of protection in the future development of coastal structures.Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version

A Lagrangian model for wave-induced harbour oscillations

A set of equations in the Lagrangian description are derived for the propagation of long gravity waves in two horizontal directions for the purpose of determining the response of harbours with sloping boundaries to long waves. The equations include terms to account for weakly nonlinear and dispersive processes. A finite element formulation for these equations is developed which treats the propagation of transient waves in regions of arbitrary shape with vertical or sloping boundaries. Open boundaries are treated by specifying the wave elevation along the boundary or by applying a radiation boundary condition to absorb the waves leaving the computational domain. Nonlinear aspects of the interaction of long gravity waves with sloping boundaries and frequency dispersion due to non-hydrostatic effects are investigated. Results from the model are then compared with laboratory experiments of the response to long-wave excitation of a narrow rectangular harbour with a depth that decreases linearly from the entrance to the shore line

Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics

Variational water-wave model with accurate dispersion and vertical vorticity

A new water-wave model has been derived which is based on variational techniques and combines a depth-averaged vertical (component of) vorticity with depth-dependent potential flow. The model facilitates the further restriction of the vertical profile of the velocity potential to n-th order polynomials or a finite-element profile with a small number of elements (say), leading to a framework for efficient modeling of the interaction of steepening and breaking waves near the shore with a large-scale horizontal flow. The equations are derived from a constrained variational formulation which leads to conservation laws for energy, mass, momentum and vertical vorticity. It is shown that the potential-flow water-wave equations and the shallow-water equations are recovered in the relevant limits. Approximate shock relations are provided, which can be used in numerical schemes to model breaking waves

Non-Reciprocal Geometric Wave Diode by Engineering Asymmetric Shapes of Nonlinear Materials

Unidirectional nonreciprocal transport is at the heart of many fundamental problems and applications in both science and technology. Here we study the novel design of wave diode devices by engineering asymmetric shapes of nonlinear materials to realize the function of non-reciprocal wave propagations. We first show analytical results revealing that both nonlinearity and asymmetry are necessary to induce such non-reciprocal (asymmetric) wave propagations. Detailed numerical simulations are further performed for a more realistic geometric wave diode model with typical asymmetric shape, where good non-reciprocal wave diode effect is demonstrated. Finally, we discuss the scalability of geometric wave diodes. The results open a flexible way for designing wave diodes efficiently simply through shape engineering of nonlinear materials, which may find broad implications in controlling energy, mass and information transports.Comment: 4 figure

A modified Galerkin/finite element method for the numerical solution of the Serre-Green-Naghdi system

A new modified Galerkin / Finite Element Method is proposed for the numerical solution of the fully nonlinear shallow water wave equations. The new numerical method allows the use of low-order Lagrange finite element spaces, despite the fact that the system contains third order spatial partial derivatives for the depth averaged velocity of the fluid. After studying the efficacy and the conservation properties of the new numerical method, we proceed with the validation of the new numerical model and boundary conditions by comparing the numerical solutions with laboratory experiments and with available theoretical asymptotic results

Symmetry Breaking in Jetting

In the bubble-jet printing process, it has been observed that the drop that ultimately pinches off from the ink jet sometimes moves sideways rather than straight relative to the symmetry axis of the liquid jet. We examined various mechanisms that might lead to the deflection of the ink drop. In particular, we focused on whether the liquid filament that connects the lead drop to the nozzle is capable of supporting lateral waves which might propagate from the nozzle toward the lead drop and break the symmetry at pinch-off

Directional Soliton and Breather Beams

Solitons and breathers are nonlinear modes that exist in a wide range of physical systems. They are fundamental solutions of a number of nonlinear wave evolution equations, including the uni-directional nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLSE). We report the observation of slanted solitons and breathers propagating at an angle with respect to the direction of propagation of the wave field. As the coherence is diagonal, the scale in the crest direction becomes finite, consequently, a beam dynamics forms. Spatio-temporal measurements of the water surface elevation are obtained by stereo-reconstructing the positions of the floating markers placed on a regular lattice and recorded with two synchronized high-speed cameras. Experimental results, based on the predictions obtained from the (2D+1) hyperbolic NLSE equation, are in excellent agreement with the theory. Our study proves the existence of such unique and coherent wave packets and has serious implications for practical applications in optical sciences and physical oceanography. Moreover, unstable wave fields in this geometry may explain the formation of directional large amplitude rogue waves with a finite crest length within a wide range of nonlinear dispersive media, such as Bose-Einstein condensates, plasma, hydrodynamics and optics