Analysis of relations between spatiotemporal movement regulation and performance of discrete actions reveals functionality in skilled climbing

In this review of research on climbing expertise, we focus on different measures of climbing performance, including spatiotemporal measures related to fluency and activity states (i.e., discrete actions), performed by climbers toward achieving the overall goal of getting to the end of a route efficiently and safely. Currently a broad range of variables have been reported, however, many of these fail to capture how climbers adapt to a route whilst climbing. We argue that spatiotemporal measures should be considered concurrent with evaluation of activity states (such as reaching or exploring) in order gain a more comprehensive picture of how climbers successfully adapt to a route. Spatial and temporal movement measures taken at the hip are a traditional means of assessing efficiency of climbing behaviors. More recently, performatory and exploratory actions of the limbs have been used in combination with spatiotemporal indicators, highlighting the influence of limb states on climbing efficiency and skill transfer. However, only a few studies have attempted to combine spatiotemporal and activity state measures taken during route climbing. This review brings together existing approaches for observing climbing skill at outcome (i.e., spatiotemporal assessments) and limb (i.e., activity states) levels of analysis. Skill level is associated with a spatially efficient route progression and lower levels of immobility. However, more difficult hold architecture requires significantly greater mobility and more complex movement patterning to maintain performance. Different forms of functional, or goal-supportive, movement variability including active recovery and hold exploration, have been implicated as important adaptations to physiological and environmental dynamics that emerge during the act of climbing. Indeed, recently it has also been shown that when climbing on new routes, efficient exploration can improve the transfer of skill. Ultimately, this review provides insight into how climbing performance and related actions can be quantified to better capture the functional role of movement variability

Expertise and intuition: A tale of three theories

Several authors have hailed intuition as one of the defining features of expertise. In particular, while disagreeing on almost anything that touches on human cognition and artificial intelligence, Hubert Dreyfus and Herbert Simon agreed on this point. However, the highly influential theories of intuition they proposed differed in major ways, especially with respect to the role given to search and as to whether intuition is holistic or analytic. Both theories suffer from empirical weaknesses. In this paper, we show how, with some additions, a recent theory of expert memory (the template theory) offers a coherent and wide-ranging explanation of intuition in expert behaviour. It is shown that the theory accounts for the key features of intuition: it explains the rapid onset of intuition and its perceptual nature, provides mechanisms for learning, incorporates processes showing how perception is linked to action and emotion, and how experts capture the entirety of a situation. In doing so, the new theory addresses the issues problematic for Dreyfus’s and Simon’s theories. Implications for research and practice are discussed

Understanding a Player’s Decision-Making Process in Team Sports: A Systematic Review of Empirical Evidence

Three perspectives have been taken to explain decision making within team sports (information processing, recognition primed decision making and ecological dynamics perspectives) resulting in conceptual tension and practical confusion. The aim of this paper was to interrogate empirical evidence to (1) understand the process of decision making within team sports and (2) capture the characteristics of decision making expertise in a team sport context. Nine electronic databases (SPORTdiscus, PsycINFO, PsycArticles, Psych-tests, PubMed, SAGE journals online, Web of knowledge, Academic search complete and Web of science) were searched until the final return in March 2021. Fifty-three articles satisfied the inclusion criteria, and were analysed thematically and synthesisd using a narrative approach. Findings indicate that the relative absence or presence of mental representation within the decision making process depends on factors including complexity, typicality, time available and contextual priors available in the game situation. We recommend that future research should integrate concepts and methodologies prevalent within each perspective to better understand decision making within team sports before providing implications for practitioners

Identifying the visual information and processes underlying expert judgements of deceptive intent

This thesis was submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy and awarded by Brunel UniversityThe aims of the current research programme were, first, to examine expertise effects with regard to anticipation skill and the perception of deceptive movement, and, second, to examine how knowledge of the probability of behavioural events influences anticipation performance and visual search behaviour. In addition, this thesis sought to test the predictions of attentional control theory (ACT) in examining how anxiety affects the influence of top-down probability information on anticipation skill and visual search behaviour. In Chapter 3, skill-based differences in anticipation and decision making were examined using judgement accuracy and confidence ratings. High-skilled soccer players demonstrated superior anticipatory performance and were less susceptible to deception compared with low-skilled players. In Chapters 4 and 5 Posner’s spatial cueing paradigm was adapted to examine the influence of top-down probability information on anticipation skill and visual search behaviour. High-skilled participants were found to be more accurate and demonstrate more efficient visual search behaviour compared to low-skilled participants. However, findings demonstrated that both groups benefited from the provision of probability information, and performance was moderated by the degree of certainty conveyed through the probability information. In Chapter 6, the same anticipation task and process tracing measures were used to examine the effects of heightened anxiety on the processing of probability and visual information. The findings supported the predictions of ACT, as the influence of top-down information was suppressed during high-pressure conditions, owing to an increased influence of the stimulus-driven attentional control system. The series of studies in this thesis are the first to explore the influence of top-down probability information on anticipation performance and the perception of deception. Study 4 is also the first to test the predictions of ACT regarding the processing of (top-down) explicit knowledge and (bottom-up) visual information under pressure during a simulated soccer anticipation task. The use of probability information through performance analysis feedback plays a prominent role across a number of sports, and the present findings highlight the importance of understanding the costs and benefits associated with such information. It is concluded that future perceptual training interventions should incorporate context-specific information that mimics the real-life demands of competitive sport, and should be directed towards enhancing players' ability to detect deception rather than training players to become attuned to non-deceptive movement

The World (of Warcraft) through the eyes of an expert

Negative correlations between pupil size and the tendency to look at salient locations were found in recent studies (e.g., Mathôt et al., 2015). It is hypothesized that this negative correlation might be explained by the mental effort put by participants in the task that leads in return to pupil dilation. Here we present an exploratory study on the effect of expertise on eye-movement behavior. Because there is no available standard tool to evaluate WoW players’ expertise, we built an off-game questionnaire testing players’ knowledge about WoW and acquired skills through completed raids, highest rated battlegrounds, Skill Points, etc. Experts (N = 4) and novices (N = 4) in the massively multiplayer online role-playing game World of Warcraft (WoW) viewed 24 designed video segments from the game that differ in regards with their content (i.e, informative locations) and visual complexity (i.e, salient locations). Consistent with previous studies, we found a negative correlation between pupil size and the tendency to look at salient locations (experts, r =  − .17, p < .0001, and novices, r =  − .09, p < .0001). This correlation has been interpreted in terms of mental effort: People are inherently biased to look at salient locations (sharp corners, bright lights, etc.), but are able (i.e., experts) to overcome this bias if they invest sufficient mental effort. Crucially, we observed that this correlation was stronger for expert WoW players than novice players (Z =  − 3.3, p = .0011). This suggests that experts learned to improve control over eye-movement behavior by guiding their eyes towards informative, but potentially low-salient areas of the screen. These findings may contribute to our understanding of what makes an expert an expert

Mental Imagery and Chunks: Empirical and Computational Findings

To investigate experts’ imagery in chess, players were required to recall briefly-presented positions in which the pieces were placed on the intersections between squares (intersection positions). Position types ranged from game positions to positions where both the piece distribution and location were randomized. Simulations were run with the CHREST model (Gobet & Simon, 2000). The simulations assumed that pieces had to be centered back one by one to the middle of the squares in the mind’s eye before chunks could be recognized. Consistent with CHREST’s predictions, chess players (N = 36), ranging from weak amateurs to grandmasters, exhibited much poorer recall on intersection positions than on standard positions (pieces placed on centers of squares). On the intersection positions, the skill difference in recall was larger on game positions than on the randomized positions. Participants recalled bishops better than knights, suggesting that Stroop-like interference impairs recall of the latter. The data supported both the time parameter in CHREST for shifting pieces in the mind’s eye (125 ms per piece) and the seriality assumption. In general, the study reinforces the plausibility of CHREST as a model of cognition

The influence of expertise on brain activation of the action observation network during anticipation of tennis and volleyball serves

In many daily activities, and especially in sport, it is necessary to predict the effects of others' actions in order to initiate appropriate responses. Recently, researchers have suggested that the action-observation network (AON) including the cerebellum plays an essential role during such anticipation, particularly in sport expert performers. In the present study, we examined the influence of task-specific expertise on the AON by investigating differences between two expert groups trained in different sports while anticipating action effects. Altogether, 15 tennis and 16 volleyball experts anticipated the direction of observed tennis and volleyball serves while undergoing functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI). The expert group in each sport acted as novice controls in the other sport with which they had only little experience. When contrasting anticipation in both expertise conditions with the corresponding untrained sport, a stronger activation of AON areas (SPL, SMA), and particularly of cerebellar structures, was observed. Furthermore, the neural activation within the cerebellum and the SPL was linearly correlated with participant's anticipation performance, irrespective of the specific expertise. For the SPL, this relationship also holds when an expert performs a domain-specific anticipation task. Notably, the stronger activation of the cerebellum as well as of the SMA and the SPL in the expertise conditions suggests that experts rely on their more fine-tuned perceptual-motor representations that have improved during years of training when anticipating the effects of others' actions in their preferred sport. The association of activation within the SPL and the cerebellum with the task achievement suggests that these areas are the predominant brain sites involved in fast motor predictions. The SPL reflects the processing of domain-specific contextual information and the cerebellum the usage of a predictive internal model to solve the anticipation task. © 2014 Balser, Lorey, Pilgramm, Naumann, Kindermann, Stark, Zentgraf, Williams and Munzert