Breaking waves on a dynamic Hele-Shaw beach

We report the formation of quasi-steady beaches and dunes via breaking waves in our tabletop ‘Hele-Shaw’ beach experiment. Breaking waves are generated by a wave maker, and zeolite particles act as sand. The tank is narrow, just over one-particle diameter wide, creating a quasi-2D set-up. Classical breaker types are observed on a time-scale of about a second. Beach formation under breakers occurs on a longer time-scale, and is a matter of minutes for a range of mono-chromatic wave frequencies. Alternating the wave maker motion between two frequencies generally leads to beach formation but occasionally to formation of a stable dune with water on either side. Finally, the Hele-Shaw configuration explored here experimentally lends itself to multi-scale modeling of beach dynamics

Revisiting Hele-Shaw dynamics to better understand beach evolution

Wave action, particularly during storms, drives the evo lution of beaches. Beach evolution by non-linear break ing waves is poorly understood due to its three-dimensional character, the range of scales involved, and our limited understanding of particle-wave interactions. We show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw” laboratory experiment can be designed that creates beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-two-dimensional setting. Our thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics: all dynamics become clearly visible and measurable. We show that beaches can be created in tens of minutes by several types of breaking waves, with about one-second periods. Quasi-steady beach morphologies emerge as function of initial water depth, at-rest bed level and wave-maker frequency. These are classified mathematically and lead to beaches, berms and sand bars

Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw conguration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classied. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach conguration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice

Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves: a mathematics-inspired experiment

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied experimentally in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking observed at real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and bar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach configuration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice, especially for shingle beaches

On wave-driven ``shingle'' beach dynamics in a table-top Hele-Shaw cell

The primary evolution of beaches by wave action takes place during storms. Beach evolution by non-linear breaking waves is 3D, multi-scale, and involves particle-wave interactions. We will show how a novel, three-phase extension to the classic “Hele-Shaw” laboratory experiment is designed to create beach morphologies with breaking waves in a quasi-2D setting. Idealized beaches emerge in tens of minutes due to several types of breaking waves, with about 1s periods. The thin Hele-Shaw cell simplifies the inherent complexity of three-phase dynamics by reducing the turbulence. Given the interest in the Hele-Shaw table-top demonstrations at ICCE2014, we will also discuss how different versions of the Hele-Shaw cell have been constructed. Construction can be inexpensive thus yielding an accessible and flexible coastal engineering demonstration as well as research tool. Beach evolution is sufficiently fast and can start very far from equilibrium, allowing an unusually large dynamical range to be investigated