Les Liaisons Dangereuses: The Productive Tensions among the Fields of Clothing and Textiles, Fashion Studies, and Cultural Studies

In this presentation, we explore the interplay among the overlapping fields of clothing and textiles, fashion studies, and cultural studies in Korea and the U.S. We note that there are a number of productive tensions at play when considering these fields together: for example, industry profit-making motives versus everyday style and resistance, “fast fashion” versus sustainable fashion, material versus image- or brand-based priorities, and critical-theoretical versus practical needs for individuals and the industry alike

Miejsca mody a usytuowanie podmiotu

Artykuł przedstawia rozważania Autorki na temat miejsca mody, którego konceptualizowanie jako pozycji podmiotu pozwala postrzegać je jako bardziej płynne w relacji do stylu i tożsamości. Takie myślenie rozluźnia również ścisły dotychczas związek między modą i miastem, umożliwiając rozumienie miejsca jako czegoś więcej niż wyłącznie scenerii dla modelek. Miejsce przyjmuje określoną postać wtedy, gdy jednostka ubiera własne ciało, podejmuje tym samym decyzje uwarunkowane przez płeć, związane z seksualnością, klasą społeczną, pochodzeniem etnicznym i innymi aspektami tożsamości. Innymi słowy miejsce staje się czymś więcej niż kategorią esencjalistyczną.Udostępnienie publikacji Wydawnictwa Uniwersytetu Łódzkiego finansowane w ramach projektu „Doskonałość naukowa kluczem do doskonałości kształcenia”. Projekt realizowany jest ze środków Europejskiego Funduszu Społecznego w ramach Programu Operacyjnego Wiedza Edukacja Rozwój; nr umowy: POWER.03.05.00-00-Z092/17-00

Genetic lines differ in Toll-like receptor gene expression in spleens of chicks inoculated with Salmonella enterica serovar Enteritidis

Toll-like receptors (TLR) recognize evolutionarily conserved molecular motifs (pathogen-associated molecular patterns) of infectious microbes and initiate innate immune response upon activation with relevant pathogens. This study investigated the acute effect of Salmonella Enteritidis challenge on TLR mRNA expression in cecum and spleen of birds from 3 distinct genetic lines. Chicks from broiler, Leghorn, and Fayoumi lines were inoculated or mock-inoculated with Salmonella Enteritidis. The mRNA expression levels of TLR2, TLR4, and TLR5 genes were assessed by quantitative reverse transcription-PCR of cecum and spleen tissue harvested at 2 or 18 h postinoculation (PI). There were no significant genetic line effects on TLR mRNA expression in spleen or cecum of mock-infected birds, or in the cecum of infected birds. Genetic line effect was significant (P \u3c 0.05) on TLR mRNA expression in the spleen of Salmonella Enteritidis- infected birds. The Fayoumi line had higher TLR2 and TLR4 expression than Leghorn, higher TLR2 mRNA expression than broiler, and the broiler line had higher TLR5 expression than Leghorn and Fayoumi. In Salmonella Enteritidis-infected birds, the TLR2 expression in both cecum and spleen and TLR4 expression in spleen were significantly higher at 18 h PI than 2 h PI. The results demonstrate a significant genetic line effect on TLR expression in the spleen of Salmonella Enteritidis-infected birds, which may partly explain genetic variability in immune response to Salmonella Enteritidis

“I Knew the Mechanics of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies in the Works of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does Mitchell’s music convey about fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance? (2) What fashion philosophies and themes are found in her vocal and visual arts? To answer these questions, we completed a content analysis of Mitchell’s lyrics, alongside a visual analysis of her album art. By studying the period of 1968 to 1979, our research captures the epoch of her greatest radio influence and record sales, and identifies the messages and fashion philosophies threaded throughout her songs and artwork

The effects of rhythm and melody on auditory stream segregation

Whilst many studies have assessed the efficacy of similarity-based cues for auditory stream segregation, much less is known about whether and how the larger-scale structure of sound sequences support stream formation and the choice of sound organization. Two experiments investigated the effects of musical melody and rhythm on the segregation of two interleaved tone sequences. The two sets of tones fully overlapped in pitch range, but differed from each other in interaural time and intensity. Unbeknownst to the listener, separately, each of the interleaved sequences was created from the notes of a different song. In different experimental conditions, the notes and/or their timing could either follow those of the songs, or they could be scrambled or, in case of timing, set to be isochronous. Listeners were asked to continuously report whether they heard a single coherent sequence (integrated) or two concurrent streams (segregated). Although temporal overlap between tones from the two streams proved to be the strongest cue for stream segregation, significant effects of tonality and familiarity with the songs were also observed. These results suggest that the regular temporal patterns are utilized as cues in auditory stream segregation and that long-term memory is involved in this process

Modulation of the secretion of potassium by accompanying anions in humans

Modulation of the secretion of potassium by accompanying anions in humans. In animals, secretion of potassium (K) in the cortical collecting duct (CCD) is modulated by the properties of the accompanying anion. In humans, results are inconclusive as previous studies have not differentiated between a kaliuresis due to a rise in the concentration of K from one due to an increase in the volume of urine. Our purpose was to study the effects of chloride (Cl) and bicarbonate on the secretion of K in the CCD in humans using the transtubular K concentration gradient (TTKG), a semi-quantitative index of secretion of K in the terminal CCD. After control blood and urine samples were obtained, all subjects ingested 0.2mg fludrocortisone to ensure that mineralocorticoids were not limiting the secretion of K. The anionic composition of the urine was varied using three protocols: Normal subjects (N = 11) ingested cystine and methionine to induce sulfaturia; nine subjects with a contracted ECF volume (to lower the concentration of Cl in the urine) were also studied during sulfaturia following the ingestion of cystine and methionine; 13 normovolemic subjects were studied during bicarbonaturia following the ingestion of acetazolamide. When the concentration of Cl in the urine was > 15 mmol/liter, sulfate had no effect on the TTKG. With lower concentrations of Cl in the urine, the TTKG rose 1.5-fold. The TTKG rose 1.8-fold in the presence of bicarbonaturia despite concentrations of Cl in the urine that were >15 mmol/liter, suggesting that bicarbonate has additional effects on this K secretory process. At comparable concentrations of sulfate and bicarbonate in the urine, the TTKG was increased only with bicarbonaturia. We conclude that it is important to control for the effects of the accompanying anions when evaluating the role of the kidney in disorders of K homeostasis

Chemistry of layered d-metal pnictide oxides and their potential as candidates for new superconductors

Layered d-metal pnictide oxides are a unique class of compounds which consists of characteristic d-metal pnictide layers and metal oxide layers. More than 100 of these layered compounds, including the recently discovered Fe-based superconducting pnictide oxides, can be classified into 9 structure types. These structure types and the chemical and physical properties of the characteristic d-metal pnictide layers and metal oxide layers of the layered d-metal pnictide oxides are reviewed and discussed. Furthermore, possible approaches to design new superconductors based on these layered d-metal pnictide oxides are proposed.Comment: 29 pages including 6 tables and 2 figure

The cellular and synaptic architecture of the mechanosensory dorsal horn

The deep dorsal horn is a poorly characterized spinal cord region implicated in processing low-threshold mechanoreceptor (LTMR) information. We report an array of mouse genetic tools for defining neuronal components and functions of the dorsal horn LTMR-recipient zone (LTMR-RZ), a role for LTMR-RZ processing in tactile perception, and the basic logic of LTMR-RZ organization. We found an unexpectedly high degree of neuronal diversity in the LTMR-RZ: seven excitatory and four inhibitory subtypes of interneurons exhibiting unique morphological, physiological, and synaptic properties. Remarkably, LTMRs form synapses on between four and 11 LTMR-RZ interneuron subtypes, while each LTMR-RZ interneuron subtype samples inputs from at least one to three LTMR classes, as well as spinal cord interneurons and corticospinal neurons. Thus, the LTMR-RZ is a somatosensory processing region endowed with a neuronal complexity that rivals the retina and functions to pattern the activity of ascending touch pathways that underlie tactile perception

Climate warming, marine protected areas and the ocean-scale integrity of coral reef ecosystems

Coral reefs have emerged as one of the ecosystems most vulnerable to climate variation and change. While the contribution of a warming climate to the loss of live coral cover has been well documented across large spatial and temporal scales, the associated effects on fish have not. Here, we respond to recent and repeated calls to assess the importance of local management in conserving coral reefs in the context of global climate change. Such information is important, as coral reef fish assemblages are the most species dense vertebrate communities on earth, contributing critical ecosystem functions and providing crucial ecosystem services to human societies in tropical countries. Our assessment of the impacts of the 1998 mass bleaching event on coral cover, reef structural complexity, and reef associated fishes spans 7 countries, 66 sites and 26 degrees of latitude in the Indian Ocean. Using Bayesian meta-analysis we show that changes in the size structure, diversity and trophic composition of the reef fish community have followed coral declines. Although the ocean scale integrity of these coral reef ecosystems has been lost, it is positive to see the effects are spatially variable at multiple scales, with impacts and vulnerability affected by geography but not management regime. Existing no-take marine protected areas still support high biomass of fish, however they had no positive affect on the ecosystem response to large-scale disturbance. This suggests a need for future conservation and management efforts to identify and protect regional refugia, which should be integrated into existing management frameworks and combined with policies to improve system-wide resilience to climate variation and change

Genetic control of chicken heterophil function in advanced intercross lines: associations with novel and with known Salmonella resistance loci and a likely mechanism for cell death in extracellular trap production

Heterophils, the avian polymorphonuclear leukocyte and the counterpart of mammalian neutrophils, generate the primary innate response to pathogens in chickens. Heterophil performance against pathogens is associated with host disease resistance, and heterophil gene expression and function are under genetic control. To characterize the genomic basis of heterophil function, heterophils from F13 advanced intercross chicken lines (broiler × Leghorn and broiler × Fayoumi) were assayed for phagocytosis and killing of Salmonella enteritidis, oxidative burst, and extracellular trap production. A whole-genome association analysis of single nucleotide polymorphisms at 57,636 loci identified genomic locations controlling these functional phenotypes. Genomic analysis revealed a significant association of extracellular trap production with the SAL1 locus and the SLC11A1 gene, which have both been previously associated with resistance to S. enteritidis. Fine mapping supports SIVA1 as a candidate gene controlling SAL1-mediated resistance and indicates that the proposed cell-death mechanism associated with extracellular trap production, ETosis, likely functions through the CD27/Siva-1-mediated apoptotic pathway. The SLC11A1 gene was also associated with phagocytosis of S. enteritidis, suggesting that the Slc11a1 protein may play an additional role in immune response beyond depleting metal ions to inhibit intracellular bacterial growth. A region of chromosome 6 with no characterized genes was also associated with extracellular trap production. Further characterization of these novel genes in chickens and other species is needed to understand their role in polymorphonuclear leukocyte function and host resistance to disease