Material for knitwear: a new contemporary design scenario

En el contexto globalizado actual en el que la fertilización cruzada entre disciplinas y diferentes campos de proyecto se mezcla generando formas, sistemas y procesos, el diseño de Tejidos de Punto puede marcar la diferencia en la producción y en el consumo de los productos. En realidad, son ideas reales sobre los diversos temas que caracterizan esta área. Actualmente el diseño en áreas muy específicas como diseño de tejido de punto italiano, realizado por artistas, diseñadores, hilanderos, empresas, continuamente entre la tradición y el producto manual industrial, hace de la investigación un desafío realmente complicado. En los escenarios contemporáneos el diseño de tejido de punto es un proceso complejo, que combina antiguas técnicas tradicionales de conocimiento con la experimentación y la innovación tecnológica. Es un desafío que alimenta la curiosidad y el deseo de buscar más.In the actual globalized context in which the cross-fertilization among disciplines and different fields of project mixes together forms, systems and processes, Knitwear Design can make the difference in the production and in the consumption of the products.  Actually they are real insights on the various issues that characterize this area; today designing in very specific areas such as Italian knitwear, made of artists, designers, spinners, companies, perpetually poised between tradition and manual industrial product, makes research a really complicated challenge.  In contemporary scenarios knitwear design is a complex process, combining ancient techniques of traditional knowledge with experimentation and technological innovation. It’s a challenge that feeds the curiosity and the desire to seek more.No contexto globalizado de hoje, em que a fertilização cruzada entre diferentes disciplinas e áreas de projeto é misturada gerando formas, sistemas e processos, Design de tecidos pode fazer a diferença na produção e consumo de produtos.  Na realidade, são ideias reais sobre várias questões que caracterizam esta área. Atualmente o projeto em áreas muito específicas, como ponto de design de tecido italiano por artistas, designers, spinners, empresas continuamente entre tradição e manual do produto industrial, torna a pesquisa um desafio realmente difícil.  Em cenários de design contemporâneo, tricô é um processo complexo que combina técnicas tradicionais antigos de conhecimento através da experimentação e inovação tecnoló- gica. É um desafio que alimenta a curiosidade e o desejo de procurar ainda mais

CROSS FERTILIZATION: UM DIRECIONAMENTO PARA A INOVAÇÃO

O artigo discute a dinâmica da cross fertilization, que remete ao contexto das relações de contiguidade entre diferentes áreas do conhecimento. Identificam-se princípios condutores comuns que direcionam o pensamento projetual, bem como elementos que agem como ativadores de transferências de conhecimento e facilitadores de processos de geração inovativos. O argumento abordado no decorrer do estudo comprova, mediante a análise das relações que se estabelecem entre os distintos setores, que é dentro das zonas de fronteira – aquele campo de intersecção que pode ser gerado entre uma área disciplinar e outra, que de fato são ativadas as dinâmicas que facilitam o surgimento de processos de inovação significativos.The article deals with the product development process guided by the dynamics of the cross-fertilization, which leads to the context of contiguity relations between different areas of knowledge. Principles common conductors are identified to drive architectural design thinking as well as elements that act as enablers of knowledge transfer and facilitators of innovative generation processes. The argument discussed in the course of this study proves, by analyzing the relationships established between the different sectors that is within the border areas - that intersection field that can be generated from a subject area to another, which in fact activates the dynamics that facilitate the emergence of significant innovation processes

Reacting to the Emergency by Opening Perspectives. Design-driven knit therapy as a adaptable tool to answer the change

When the COVID-19 emergency raised, the entire world -and small communities with it- had to stop, adapt, find ways to face the big ongoing challenge. The article reports the reaction and the changes undertaken with an ongoing project that was, in February 2020, experimenting, inside the hospital environment, the therapeutic effects of knitting on people with physical and psychological pathologies. The project, driven by scientific studies made in universities, hospitals and research centers worldwide, had the aim to bring the intervention of designers on the topic, to answer the emerged need to promote research in what is considered a low-investigated and high-promising field. Experimental pilot actions, designed and led by designers on-field, were going on when the emergency changed the scenario, limited the environment, shifted the eye on a new, wider target of healthy people, made knitting a tool to face new circumstances and improve everyday-life quality.Observing the newly emerged scenario and the spontaneous initiatives risen on the web (and on social media in particular) to help individuals in spending the forced time at home in meaningful ways, designers involved in the ongoing project identified in knitting an activity that could be beneficial on a psychological and physical level also for quarantined individuals. The project took a new perspective and evolved in the #IOLAVOROAMAGLIA (#IKNIT) social media campaign, linked to the globally spread #STAYHOME campaign, aimed at inviting people to remain home for preventing the diffusion of the infection, while proposing at the same time new solutions for positively living the emergency times. #IOLAVOROAMAGLIA was embraced by many users and it also became a weekly scheduled live virtual workshop, with a direct reference to the workshops in the hospital of XXXX, temporarily stopped during lockdown.The two projects, on-field and online, proved how knitting can be a meaningful solution not only for healthcare, but also for the daily life of people, both in normal times and in emergency situations.Moreover, the role of the designer and of a design driven approach proved to be fundamental, for the product and service creation, improvement and consolidation and for its communication for valorization and promotion

Designing Sustainable Clothing Systems

The Fashion System is at the center of the international debate as one of the most polluting and most impactful industries on the environment. In the last decade the fashion industry has changed, and is still modifying, its approach, aware of the fact that the attention to the environment can no longer be considered a trend: the entire system needs to find and adopt a methodological approach to the project and to the production of goods and services. Today all the stakeholders on the supply chain follow a path from upstream to downstream: from the treatment of pollution, to the intervention on the production processes that generate a product, to the redesign of products and/or services to reach the discussion and reorientation of social behavior. This path shows the need to intervene in design terms and that the growth in responsibility and role of design, requiring reference scenarios, knowledge and new tools. The book defines the features and scenarios of sustainable development, as well as the evolution of sustainability in research and practice of fashion design, addressing the strategies for the design and development of environmentally sustainable products. The authors describe the Life Cycle Design approach and the strategies and guidelines for integrating environmental requirements into product design for sustainable fashion. They present the so-called Systems of Sustainable Products-Services, namely the most promising scenarios and models to make design for sustainable fashion economically convenient. Finally, they provide a method and related tools to support design for sustainable fashion in the evaluation of the environmental impact of products, with particular emphasis on the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment). The text is enriched by a full-bodied review of interviews and case studies, with the dual purpose of making the design options clear and of highlighting their specificity for the different design contexts

As relações entre a disciplina Laboratorio di Sintesi Finale do Politecnico di Milano e o ensino de projeto em moda no Brasil

A partir da experiência no Politecnico di Milano, acompanhando a disciplina Laboratorio di Sintesi Finale, de responsabilidade do professor Giovanni Conti, foi possível registrar as etapas que configuram um processo de projetação em moda e certa ordem para que elas ocorram. Durante esse período, foi possível observar com que frequência é utilizado o vocabulário e práticas do design industrial que, por vezes, é flexibilizado em função das necessidades específicas do design de moda. Além de frequentar as aulas de Conti, foi realizada uma entrevista de caráter exploratório com o docente, visando a coleta de dados primários mais precisos que, posteriormente foram tratados respeitando os métodos da História Oral para a construção de relatos, como aqueles de Alberti (2013), Poupart (2008) e Velho (1980). Dessa forma, a problematização do tema produzida como resultado dessa prática de pesquisa permitiu chegar a reflexões que expõem a importância da prática do design de moda e sua institucionalização para o avanço do campo

Distribution-free estimation of the Gini inequality index: the kernel method approach

Gini index, kernel method, non-parametric methods

Morphometric analysis of some metric characters of two Macrobiotus species (Eutardigrada, Macrobiotidae)

A study on individual variability was carried out on some metric characters of two species of Eutardigrada Macrobiotidae: Macrobiotus diffusus and Macrobiotus areolatus. Other than range of variability for various characters considered, correlation analysis and regression analysis for some of them were carried out by means of binary comparisons. By means of prediction ellipses, which were always determined with a probability of P = 99.9%, it was possible to hypothesize - with an error risk of 0.1% - if an individual whose data were outside the confidence interval belonged to a species. The value of the pt index relative to the point of insertion of the stylet supports is particularly significant, showing variations with extremely limited and independent dispersion both for body length and for buccal tube length

Reduced mitogenic stimulation of human lymphocytes by extremely low frequency electromagnetic fields

AbstractBlastogenesis of human peripheral blood lymphocytes stimulated in vitro by non-specific mitogens (PHA, ConA, PWM) upon exposure to extremely low frequency EMF has been studied. Different frequencies of square waveforms have been used. PHA-stimulation resulted in strong inhibitions as measured by [3H]thymidine incorporation. A frequency window (3–50 Hz) within which ConA-induced blastogenesis was significantly inhibited has been individuated. The mitogenic effect of PWM was significantly affected only at 3 Hz

Molecular and Clinical Links between Drug-Induced Cholestasis and Familial Intrahepatic Cholestasis

Idiosyncratic Drug-Induced Liver Injury (iDILI) represents an actual health challenge, accounting for more than 40% of hepatitis cases in adults over 50 years and more than 50% of acute fulminant hepatic failure cases. In addition, approximately 30% of iDILI are cholestatic (drug-induced cholestasis (DIC)). The liver's metabolism and clearance of lipophilic drugs depend on their emission into the bile. Therefore, many medications cause cholestasis through their interaction with hepatic transporters. The main canalicular efflux transport proteins include: 1. the bile salt export pump (BSEP) protein (ABCB11); 2. the multidrug resistance protein-2 (MRP2, ABCC2) regulating the bile salts' independent flow by excretion of glutathione; 3. the multidrug resistance-1 protein (MDR1, ABCB1) that transports organic cations; 4. the multidrug resistance-3 protein (MDR3, ABCB4). Two of the most known proteins involved in bile acids' (BAs) metabolism and transport are BSEP and MDR3. BSEP inhibition by drugs leads to reduced BAs' secretion and their retention within hepatocytes, exiting in cholestasis, while mutations in the ABCB4 gene expose the biliary epithelium to the injurious detergent actions of BAs, thus increasing susceptibility to DIC. Herein, we review the leading molecular pathways behind the DIC, the links with the other clinical forms of familial intrahepatic cholestasis, and, finally, the main cholestasis-inducing drugs