Dynamique et échanges sédimentaires en rade de Brest impactés par l'invasion de crépidules

This thesis is a contribution to the study of sediment dynamic in the ecosystem of the bay of Brest. It aims at describing, by numerical simulations and field observations, the movement of water and sediments in the bay under tidal forcing, and the impact of the present spatial distribution of slipper limpets on suspended sediment transport and bed evolution. A two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) model is implemented based on the TELEMAC numerical system. It integrates the spatial variability of bed sediments, accounts for the physical presence (macro-roughness, form drag - skin friction partitioning) and biological activity (filtration of water carrying suspended particles, production of biodeposit) of slipper limpets. Measurements of water level, mean flow velocity, and friction velocity satisfactorily validate the choice of parameters in the hydrodynamic model. Measurements of suspended matter concentration in the bay of Brest are sporadic, and their analysis complicated. The sediment model stands as a tool for better understanding sedimentary processes. It informs the temporal evolution of the contribution of different types of sediment, and their origin, to local suspended and deposited sediment concentrations. It allows to follow the paths of sediment transport predominantly in suspension, and to quantify the exchanges of sediments between the sub-basins of the bay and with the bed. The introduction of slipper limpet colonies on the bed, in the form of chains assimilated as cylinders, induces decreasing flow velocity above and in their wake, compensated by increasing flow velocity on the outskirts, which globally modify the patterns of sediment erosion and deposition in the bay. Locally, the macro-roughness elements have an antagonist effect depending on their distribution: medium densities increase skin friction and erosion flux, whereas high densities shelter bed sediments from which results accretion. By comparison to their hydrodynamic impact, the biological activity plays a secondary role on sediment dynamic.Cette thèse est une contribution à l’étude de la dynamique sédimentaire dans l’écosystème de la rade de Brest. Elle a pour objectif de décrire, par la simulation numérique et l’observation in situ, le mouvement des masses d’eau et de sédiments sous l’influence de la marée à l’échelle de la rade, et l’impact de la distribution spatiale actuelle des populations de crépidules sur le transport de sédiments en suspension et l’évolution des fonds. Un modèle bidimensionnel horizontal (2DH) est mis en œuvre à partir du code TELEMAC. Il intègre la variabilité spatiale du substrat, et rend compte de la présence physique (macro-rugosité, partition de la contrainte de cisaillement) et de l’activité biologique (filtration de l’eau chargée de particules en suspension, production de biodépôts) des crépidules. Les mesures de hauteur d’eau, de vitesse du courant, et de vitesse de frottement valident de façon satisfaisante les choix de paramétrisation du modèle hydrodynamique. Les mesures de concentration de matière en suspension en rade de Brest sont sporadiques, et leur analyse est compliquée. Le modèle sédimentaire constitue un outil de compréhension. Il informe de l’évolution temporelle de la contribution de différents types de sédiments et de leur origine aux concentrations locales de sédiments en suspension et déposés. Il permet de suivre le cheminement des sédiments principalement en suspension, de quantifier les échanges entre les sous-bassins de la rade et avec le fond. L’introduction sur le fond des colonies de crépidules, sous forme de chaînes assimilées à des cylindres, induit une diminution de la vitesse du courant à l’aplomb et dans leur sillage, compensée par une augmentation en périphérie, entraînant une modification globale des zones d’érosion et de dépôt de sédiments. Localement, les macro-rugosités ont un effet antagoniste selon leur répartition: des densités moyennes augmentent le frottement de peau et les remises en suspension, tandis que des densités élevées induisent un masquage des sédiments sur le fond duquel résulte une accrétion. Par comparaison à leur impact hydrodynamique, l’activité biologique des crépidules joue un rôle secondaire sur la dynamique sédimentaire

Development of a coupled wave-flow-vegetation interaction model

© The Author(s), 2016. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Computers & Geosciences 100 (2017): 76–86, doi:10.1016/j.cageo.2016.12.010.Emergent and submerged vegetation can significantly affect coastal hydrodynamics. However, most deterministic numerical models do not take into account their influence on currents, waves, and turbulence. In this paper, we describe the implementation of a wave-flow-vegetation module into a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system that includes a flow model (ROMS) and a wave model (SWAN), and illustrate various interacting processes using an idealized shallow basin application. The flow model has been modified to include plant posture-dependent three-dimensional drag, in-canopy wave-induced streaming, and production of turbulent kinetic energy and enstrophy to parameterize vertical mixing. The coupling framework has been updated to exchange vegetation-related variables between the flow model and the wave model to account for wave energy dissipation due to vegetation. This study i) demonstrates the validity of the plant posture-dependent drag parameterization against field measurements, ii) shows that the model is capable of reproducing the mean and turbulent flow field in the presence of vegetation as compared to various laboratory experiments, iii) provides insight into the flow-vegetation interaction through an analysis of the terms in the momentum balance, iv) describes the influence of a submerged vegetation patch on tidal currents and waves separately and combined, and v) proposes future directions for research and development.This study was part of the Estuarine Physical Response to Storms project (GS2-2D), supported by the Department of Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery program

Spectral wave dissipation by submerged aquatic vegetation in a back-barrier estuary

© The Author(s), 2017. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Limnology and Oceanography 62 (2017): 736–753, doi:10.1002/lno.10456.Submerged aquatic vegetation is generally thought to attenuate waves, but this interaction remains poorly characterized in shallow-water field settings with locally generated wind waves. Better quantification of wave–vegetation interaction can provide insight to morphodynamic changes in a variety of environments and also is relevant to the planning of nature-based coastal protection measures. Toward that end, an instrumented transect was deployed across a Zostera marina (common eelgrass) meadow in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, U.S.A., to characterize wind-wave transformation within the vegetated region. Field observations revealed wave-height reduction, wave-period transformation, and wave-energy dissipation with distance into the meadow, and the data informed and calibrated a spectral wave model of the study area. The field observations and model results agreed well when local wind forcing and vegetation-induced drag were included in the model, either explicitly as rigid vegetation elements or implicitly as large bed-roughness values. Mean modeled parameters were similar for both the explicit and implicit approaches, but the spectral performance of the explicit approach was poor compared to the implicit approach. The explicit approach over-predicted low-frequency energy within the meadow because the vegetation scheme determines dissipation using mean wavenumber and frequency, in contrast to the bed-friction formulations, which dissipate energy in a variable fashion across frequency bands. Regardless of the vegetation scheme used, vegetation was the most important component of wave dissipation within much of the study area. These results help to quantify the influence of submerged aquatic vegetation on wave dynamics in future model parameterizations, field efforts, and coastal-protection measures.Department of the Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery. U.S. Governmen

Physical response of a back-barrier estuary to a post-tropical cyclone

© The Author(s), 2017. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 5888–5904, doi:10.1002/2016JC012344.This paper presents a modeling investigation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of Chincoteague Bay (VA/MD, USA) to Hurricane Sandy using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment-Transport (COAWST) modeling system. Several simulation scenarios with different combinations of remote and local forces were conducted to identify the dominant physical processes. While 80% of the water level increase in the bay was due to coastal sea level at the peak of the storm, a rich spatial and temporal variability in water surface slope was induced by local winds and waves. Local wind increased vertical mixing, horizontal exchanges, and flushing through the inlets. Remote waves (swell) enhanced southward flow through wave setup gradients between the inlets, and increased locally generated wave heights. Locally generated waves had a negligible effect on water level but reduced the residual flow up to 70% due to enhanced apparent roughness and breaking-induced forces. Locally generated waves dominated bed shear stress and sediment resuspension in the bay. Sediment transport patterns mirrored the interior coastline shape and generated deposition on inundated areas. The bay served as a source of fine sediment to the inner shelf, and the ocean-facing barrier island accumulated sand from landward-directed overwash. Despite the intensity of the storm forcing, the bathymetric changes in the bay were on the order of centimeters. This work demonstrates the spectrum of responses to storm forcing, and highlights the importance of local and remote processes on back-barrier estuarine function.Department of Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery progra

Sensitivity analysis of a coupled hydrodynamic-vegetation model using the effectively subsampled quadratures method (ESQM v5.2)

Abstract. Coastal hydrodynamics can be greatly affected by the presence of submerged aquatic vegetation. The effect of vegetation has been incorporated into the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. The vegetation implementation includes the plant-induced three-dimensional drag, in-canopy wave-induced streaming, and the production of turbulent kinetic energy by the presence of vegetation. In this study, we evaluate the sensitivity of the flow and wave dynamics to vegetation parameters using Sobol' indices and a least squares polynomial approach referred to as the Effective Quadratures method. This method reduces the number of simulations needed for evaluating Sobol' indices and provides a robust, practical, and efficient approach for the parameter sensitivity analysis. The evaluation of Sobol' indices shows that kinetic energy, turbulent kinetic energy, and water level changes are affected by plant stem density, height, and, to a lesser degree, diameter. Wave dissipation is mostly dependent on the variation in plant stem density. Performing sensitivity analyses for the vegetation module in COAWST provides guidance to optimize efforts and reduce exploration of parameter space for future observational and modeling work. </jats:p

Quantification of storm-induced bathymetric change in a back-barrier estuary

© The Author(s), 2016. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Estuaries and Coasts 40 (2017): 22-36, doi:10.1007/s12237-016-0138-5.Geomorphology is a fundamental control on ecological and economic function of estuaries. However, relative to open coasts, there has been little quantification of storm-induced bathymetric change in back-barrier estuaries. Vessel-based and airborne bathymetric mapping can cover large areas quickly, but change detection is difficult because measurement errors can be larger than the actual changes over the storm timescale. We quantified storm-induced bathymetric changes at several locations in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, over the August 2014 to July 2015 period using fixed, downward-looking altimeters and numerical modeling. At sand-dominated shoal sites, measurements showed storm-induced changes on the order of 5 cm, with variability related to stress magnitude and wind direction. Numerical modeling indicates that the predominantly northeasterly wind direction in the fall and winter promotes southwest-directed sediment transport, causing erosion of the northern face of sandy shoals; southwesterly winds in the spring and summer lead to the opposite trend. Our results suggest that storm-induced estuarine bathymetric change magnitudes are often smaller than those detectable with methods such as LiDAR. More precise fixed-sensor methods have the ability to elucidate the geomorphic processes responsible for modulating estuarine bathymetry on the event and seasonal timescale, but are limited spatially. Numerical modeling enables interpretation of broad-scale geomorphic processes and can be used to infer the long-term trajectory of estuarine bathymetric change due to episodic events, when informed by fixed-sensor methods

Seagrass Impact on Sediment Exchange Between Tidal Flats and Salt Marsh, and The Sediment Budget of Shallow Bays

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Geophysical Research Letters 45 (2018): 4933-4943, doi:10.1029/2018GL078056.Seagrasses are marine flowering plants that strongly impact their physical and biological surroundings and are therefore frequently referred to as ecological engineers. The effect of seagrasses on coastal bay resilience and sediment transport dynamics is understudied. Here we use six historical maps of seagrass distribution in Barnegat Bay, USA, to investigate the role of these vegetated surfaces on the sediment storage capacity of shallow bays. Analyses are carried out by means of the Coupled‐Ocean‐Atmosphere‐Wave‐Sediment Transport (COAWST) numerical modeling framework. Results show that a decline in the extent of seagrass meadows reduces the sediment mass potentially stored within bay systems. The presence of seagrass reduces shear stress values across the entire bay, including unvegetated areas, and promotes sediment deposition on tidal flats. On the other hand, the presence of seagrasses decreases suspended sediment concentrations, which in turn reduces the delivery of sediment to marsh platforms. Results highlight the relevance of seagrasses for the long‐term survival of coastal ecosystems, and the complex dynamics regulating the interaction between subtidal and intertidal landscapes.2018-10-3

Salt Marsh Loss Affects Tides and the Sediment Budget in Shallow Bays

The current paradigm is that salt marshes and their important ecosystem services are threatened by global climate change; indeed, large marsh losses have been documented worldwide. Morphological changes associated with salt marsh erosion are expected to influence the hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of coastal systems. Here the influence of salt marsh erosion on the tidal hydrodynamics and sediment storage capability of shallow bays is investigated. Hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and vegetation dynamics are simulated using the numerical framework Coupled Ocean‐Atmosphere‐Wave‐Sediment Transport in the Barnegat Bay‐Little Egg Harbor system, USA. We show that salt marsh erosion influences the propagation of tides into back‐barrier basins, reducing the periodic inundation and sediment delivery to marsh platforms. As salt marshes erode, the sediment trapping potential of marsh platforms decreases exponentially. In this test case, up to 50% of the sediment mass trapped by vegetation is lost once a quarter of the marsh area is eroded. Similarly, without salt marshes the sediment budget of the entire bay significantly declines. Therefore, a positive feedback might be triggered such that as the salt marsh retreats the sediment storage capacity of the system declines, which could in turn further exacerbate marsh degradation

Dynamic and exchanges of sediments in the bay of Brest impacted by the invasion of slipper limpets

Cette thèse est une contribution à l’étude de la dynamique sédimentaire dans l’écosystème de la rade de Brest. Elle a pour objectif de décrire, par la simulation numérique et l’observation in situ, le mouvement des masses d’eau et de sédiments sous l’influence de la marée à l’échelle de la rade, et l’impact de la distribution spatiale actuelle des populations de crépidules sur le transport de sédiments en suspension et l’évolution des fonds. Un modèle bidimensionnel horizontal (2DH) est mis en œuvre à partir du code TELEMAC. Il intègre la variabilité spatiale du substrat, et rend compte de la présence physique (macro-rugosité, partition de la contrainte de cisaillement) et de l’activité biologique (filtration de l’eau chargée de particules en suspension, production de biodépôts) des crépidules. Les mesures de hauteur d’eau, de vitesse du courant, et de vitesse de frottement valident de façon satisfaisante les choix de paramétrisation du modèle hydrodynamique. Les mesures de concentration de matière en suspension en rade de Brest sont sporadiques, et leur analyse est compliquée. Le modèle sédimentaire constitue un outil de compréhension. Il informe de l’évolution temporelle de la contribution de différents types de sédiments et de leur origine aux concentrations locales de sédiments en suspension et déposés. Il permet de suivre le cheminement des sédiments principalement en suspension, de quantifier les échanges entre les sous-bassins de la rade et avec le fond. L’introduction sur le fond des colonies de crépidules, sous forme de chaînes assimilées à des cylindres, induit une diminution de la vitesse du courant à l’aplomb et dans leur sillage, compensée par une augmentation en périphérie, entraînant une modification globale des zones d’érosion et de dépôt de sédiments. Localement, les macro-rugosités ont un effet antagoniste selon leur répartition: des densités moyennes augmentent le frottement de peau et les remises en suspension, tandis que des densités élevées induisent un masquage des sédiments sur le fond duquel résulte une accrétion. Par comparaison à leur impact hydrodynamique, l’activité biologique des crépidules joue un rôle secondaire sur la dynamique sédimentaire.This thesis is a contribution to the study of sediment dynamic in the ecosystem of the bay of Brest. It aims at describing, by numerical simulations and field observations, the movement of water and sediments in the bay under tidal forcing, and the impact of the present spatial distribution of slipper limpets on suspended sediment transport and bed evolution. A two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) model is implemented based on the TELEMAC numerical system. It integrates the spatial variability of bed sediments, accounts for the physical presence (macro-roughness, form drag - skin friction partitioning) and biological activity (filtration of water carrying suspended particles, production of biodeposit) of slipper limpets. Measurements of water level, mean flow velocity, and friction velocity satisfactorily validate the choice of parameters in the hydrodynamic model. Measurements of suspended matter concentration in the bay of Brest are sporadic, and their analysis complicated. The sediment model stands as a tool for better understanding sedimentary processes. It informs the temporal evolution of the contribution of different types of sediment, and their origin, to local suspended and deposited sediment concentrations. It allows to follow the paths of sediment transport predominantly in suspension, and to quantify the exchanges of sediments between the sub-basins of the bay and with the bed. The introduction of slipper limpet colonies on the bed, in the form of chains assimilated as cylinders, induces decreasing flow velocity above and in their wake, compensated by increasing flow velocity on the outskirts, which globally modify the patterns of sediment erosion and deposition in the bay. Locally, the macro-roughness elements have an antagonist effect depending on their distribution: medium densities increase skin friction and erosion flux, whereas high densities shelter bed sediments from which results accretion. By comparison to their hydrodynamic impact, the biological activity plays a secondary role on sediment dynamic