Topographical scattering of waves: a spectral approach

The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra, and evaluates a Bragg scattering source term that is theoretically valid for small bottom and surface slopes and slowly varying spectral properties. The robustness of the model is tested for a variety of topographies uniform along one horizontal dimension including nearly sinusoidal, linear ramp and step profiles. Results are compared with reflections computed using an accurate method that applies integral matching along vertical boundaries of a series of steps. For small bottom amplitudes, the source term representation yields accurate reflection estimates even for a localized scatterer. This result is proved for small bottom amplitudes $h$ relative to the mean water depth $H$. Wave reflection by small amplitude bottom topography thus depends primarily on the bottom elevation variance at the Bragg resonance scales, and is insensitive to the detailed shape of the bottom profile. Relative errors in the energy reflection coefficient are found to be typically $2h/H$.Comment: Second revision for Journal of Waterways Ports and Coastal Engineerin

Detection of microseismic compressional (P) body waves aided by numerical modeling of oceanic noise sources

Among the different types of waves embedded in seismic noise, body waves present appealing properties but are still challenging to extract. Here we first validate recent improvements in numerical modeling of microseismic compressional (P) body waves and then show how this tool allows fast detection and location of their sources. We compute sources at ~0.2 Hz within typical P teleseismic distances (30-90°) from the Southern California Seismic Network and analyze the most significant discrete sources. The locations and relative strengths of the computed sources are validated by the good agreement with beam-forming analysis. These 54 noise sources exhibit a highly heterogeneous distribution, and cluster along the usual storm tracks in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. They are mostly induced in the open ocean, at or near water depths of 2800 and 5600 km, most likely within storms or where ocean waves propagating as swell meet another swell or wind sea. We then emphasize two particularly strong storms to describe how they generate noise sources in their wake. We also use these two specific noise bursts to illustrate the differences between microseismic body and surface waves in terms of source distribution and resulting recordable ground motion. The different patterns between body and surface waves result from distinctive amplification of ocean wave-induced pressure perturbation and different seismic attenuation. Our study demonstrates the potential of numerical modeling to provide fast and accurate constraints on where and when to expect microseismic body waves, with implications for seismic imaging and climate studies. © 2013. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.This work was supported by the European Research Council (IOWAGA project), the Program >Investment for the future” Labex Mer (grant ANR-10-LABX-19-01), and the Consolider-Ingeno (Topo-Iberia). M.O. performed the data analysis while visiting the Domaines Océanique laboratorPeer Reviewe

A data set of sea surface stereo images to resolve space-time wave fields

Stereo imaging of the sea surface elevation provides unique field data to investigate the geometry and dynamics of oceanic waves. Typically, this technique allows retrieving the 4-D ocean topography (3-D space + time) at high frequency (up to 15–20 Hz) over a sea surface region of area ~104 m2. Stereo data fill the existing wide gap between sea surface elevation time-measurements, like the local observation provided by wave-buoys, and large-scale ocean observations by satellites. The analysis of stereo images provides a direct measurement of the wavefield without the need of any linear-wave theory assumption, so it is particularly interesting to investigate the nonlinearities of the surface, wave-current interaction, rogue waves, wave breaking, air-sea interaction, and potentially other processes not explored yet. In this context, this open dataset aims to provide, for the first time, valuable stereo measurements collected in different seas and wave conditions to invite the ocean-wave scientific community to continue exploring these data and to contribute to a better understanding of the nature of the sea surface dynamics

FluxEngine: A Flexible Processing System for Calculating Atmosphere–Ocean Carbon Dioxide Gas Fluxes and Climatologies

The air–sea flux of greenhouse gases [e.g., carbon dioxide (CO2)] is a critical part of the climate system and a major factor in the biogeochemical development of the oceans. More accurate and higher-resolution calcu- lations of these gas fluxes are required if researchers are to fully understand and predict future climate. Satellite Earth observation is able to provide large spatial-scale datasets that can be used to study gas fluxes. However, the large storage requirements needed to host such data can restrict its use by the scientific com- munity. Fortunately, the development of cloud computing can provide a solution. This paper describes an open-source air–sea CO2 flux processing toolbox called the ‘‘FluxEngine,’’ designed for use on a cloud- computing infrastructure. The toolbox allows users to easily generate global and regional air–sea CO2 flux data from model, in situ, and Earth observation data, and its air–sea gas flux calculation is user configurable. Its current installation on the Nephalae Cloud allows users to easily exploit more than 8 TB of climate-quality Earth observation data for the derivation of gas fluxes. The resultant netCDF data output files contain .20 data layers containing the various stages of the flux calculation along with process indicator layers to aid interpretation of the data. This paper describes the toolbox design, which verifies the air–sea CO2 flux calculations; demon- strates the use of the tools for studying global and shelf sea air–sea fluxes; and describes future developments

Salinity from Space Unlocks Satellite-Based Assessment of Ocean Acidification

Approximately a quarter of the carbon dioxide (CO2) that we emit into the atmosphere is absorbed by the ocean. This oceanic uptake of CO2 leads to a change in marine carbonate chemistry resulting in a decrease of seawater pH and carbonate ion concentration, a process commonly called “Ocean Acidification”. Salinity data are key for assessing the marine carbonate system, and new space-based salinity measurements will enable the development of novel space-based ocean acidification assess- ment. Recent studies have highlighted the need to develop new in situ technology for monitoring ocean acidification, but the potential capabilities of space-based measurements remain largely untapped. Routine measurements from space can provide quasi-synoptic, reproducible data for investigating processes on global scales; they may also be the most efficient way to monitor the ocean surface. As the carbon cycle is dominantly controlled by the balance between the biological and solubility carbon pumps, innovative methods to exploit existing satellite sea surface temperature and ocean color, and new satellite sea surface salinity measurements, are needed and will enable frequent assessment of ocean acidification parameters over large spatial scales

Stokes drift

During its periodic motion, a particle floating at the free surface of a water wave experiences a net drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation, known as the Stokes drift (Stokes 1847 Trans. Camb. Philos. Soc.8, 441-455). More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid. This paper reviews progress in fundamental and applied research on the induced mean flow associated with surface gravity waves since the first description of the Stokes drift, now 170 years ago. After briefly reviewing the fundamental physical processes, most of which have been established for decades, the review addresses progress in laboratory and field observations of the Stokes drift. Despite more than a century of experimental studies, laboratory studies of the mean circulation set up by waves in a laboratory flume remain somewhat contentious. In the field, rapid advances are expected due to increasingly small and cheap sensors and transmitters, making widespread use of small surface-following drifters possible. We also discuss remote sensing of the Stokes drift from high-frequency radar. Finally, the paper discusses the three main areas of application of the Stokes drift: in the coastal zone, in Eulerian models of the upper ocean layer and in the modelling of tracer transport, such as oil and plastic pollution. Future climate models will probably involve full coupling of ocean and atmosphere systems, in which the wave model provides consistent forcing on the ocean surface boundary layer. Together with the advent of new space-borne instruments that can measure surface Stokes drift, such models hold the promise of quantifying the impact of wave effects on the global atmosphere-ocean system and hopefully contribute to improved climate projections.This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'

Wave modelling - the state of the art

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered. The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments

Impact assessment for the improved four boundary conditions (at bed, free-surface, land-boundary and offshore-boundary) on coastal hydrodynamics and particulate transport

The FIELD_AC project aims at providing an improved operational service for coastal areas and at generating added value for shelf and regional scale predictions. Coastal-zone oceanographic predictions seldom appraise the land discharge as a boundary condition. River fluxes are sometimes considered, but neglecting their 3D character, while the "distributed" continental run-off is not taken into consideration. Moreover, many coastal scale processes, particularly those relevant in geographically restricted domains (coast with harbors or river mouth areas), are not well parametrized in present simulations.Work package 3 dedicated to Boundary Fluxes aims to establish and use the best possible boundary conditions for coastal water quality modelling. On this scale, all boundaries become important. For the land boundary side the needed products are distributed and point wise run-off both quantitatively and qualitatively. For the offshore boundary condition, 3D current, water quality field, and wave spectra will be used. For the atmospheric boundary, products from local scale meteorological models (wind, atmospheric pressure and rainfall) are needed. For the seabed, boundary information on sediment composition, bedforms and bathymetry and bio-geo-chemical parameters is essential.This report addresses the impact assessment for improvements in the four boundary conditions (boundary fluxes from land, free-surface boundary condition, seabed boundary condition and open boundary fluxes) on coastal hydrodynamics and particulate transport. The description of the improved four boundary conditions is followed by examples of concrete impact assessment of the theory into the Catalan coast, Liverpool Bay, German Bight and Gulf of Venice