Multi-Color Diffusion Simulation of Dye Over Folded Fabrics

Creating a unique dyed shirt requires accurately simulating a fabric model, implementing the ability to fold the fabric, encoding the process of dye diffusion through the fabric, and allowing for different color channels of dye to mix. These goals require an adherence to the physical properties and laws that govern the process of diffusion and a suitable representational model that this diffusion is conducted on and through. This paper presents a model for the representation of fabric that is comprised of two layers woven together in a weave pattern. Using Fick’s Second Law of Diffusion and properties of the fabric and threads, we calculate the rate of diffusion for each cell of the fabric. This calculation is done over each color channel to allow for the full spectrum of dye colors to be realized. Using a relationship matrix, the fabric can be folded over itself, and the dye will diffuse over this fold into the layer on the other side. Most of the parameters involved in defining the type of fabric can be modified to allow for a large range of visual expression in the fabric. The results support the effectiveness and veracity of the model

Sustainability in design: now! Challenges and opportunities for design research, education and practice in the XXI century

Copyright @ 2010 Greenleaf PublicationsLeNS project funded by the Asia Link Programme, EuropeAid, European Commission

From Silk to Digital Technologies: A Gateway to New Opportunities for Creative Industries, Traditional Crafts and Designers. The SILKNOW Case

Nowadays, cultural heritage is more than ever linked to the present. It links us to our cultural past through the conscious act of preserving and bequeathing to future generations, turning society into its custodian. The appreciation of cultural heritage happens not only because of its communicative power, but also because of its economic power, through sustainable development and the promotion of creative industries. This paper presents SILKNOW, an EU-H2002 funded project and its application to cultural heritage, as well as to creative industries and design innovation. To this end, it presents the use of image recognition tools applied to cultural heritage, through the interoperability of data in the open-access registers of silk museums and its presentation, analysis and creative process carried out by the design students of EASD Valencia as a case study, in the branches of jewellery and fashion project, inspired by the heritage of silk

Electrical ageing studies of polymeric insulation for power cables (estudo do envelhecimento eléctrico do isolante polimérico de cabos eléctricos

Dissertação apresentada para obtenção do Grau de Doutor em Engenharia Física - Física Aplicada pela Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências e TecnologiaPolymers have been widely used as electrical insulators in power cables. Polyethylene, initially low density and more recently crosslinked, are one of the more commonly used insulators in medium and high voltage power cables. They suffer electrical ageing in different forms, such as water treeing, electrical treeing and finally dielectric breakdown. The last one leading to costly cable failure. Many research works have been developed on this subject despite of the progress made up to now, results are still sometimes contradictory and difficult to reproduce. Any new insight into this problem is a step further in preventing failure of the cables and increasing their useful lifetime. The aim of this thesis was to relate ageing in two different aspects of electrical ageing: localised damage and changes in bulk properties of the polyethylene. For this different experimental techniques were used. Localised damage was water treeing and breakdown channels since no electrical trees were observed. The methods used for this study were FTIR,estimation of fractal dimension of water trees and statistics of dielectric breakdown. The changes of electric and dielectric bulk properties were accessed using mostly DRS, FTSDC and PEA. From the FTIR results it was possible to find oxidation products (mainly ketones and carboxylate ions) and chain scission. The values estimated for fractal dimension point to the same underlying microscopic mechanism for water treeing (at least for samples aged at different frequency and temperature). Breakdown statistics point to the important role of manufacture and processing of the insulator, since early breakdown is mostly dependent on defects resulting from these processes. A correlation between DRS, FTSDC and PEA shows the role played by space charge and trapping on ageing for longer times. The two different aspects (localised and bulk) are difficult to correlate because the first one has a stochastic behaviour. However the presence of space charge found in bulk studies can be regard as one of the initiator factors for localised damage.Fundação Calouste Gulbenkia

Surfactant migration on polymeric substrates

Many industrial nonwoven polymeric fabrics are coated with surfactants to provide improved wettability which is an essential attribute for disposable hygiene products, like facemasks, wipes, absorbent materials and baby nappies. These surfactant coatings on polyolefinic nonwovens appear to be typically not permanent and this fugitive nature of the surfactants is a concern for the industry. However, the interaction between organic species and complex semi-amorphous polymers as used in nonwoven products is an industrially important but poorly understood research area. Experimental studies reported here have established the mechanisms by which surfactants interact with polyolefinic surfaces, provide visualisation of 3D surfactant distributions on these nonwovens as well as their wettability, and report on the processes responsible for surfactant migration/loss from polyolefins. A novel confocal microscopy method is reported here for the non-invasive imaging of the 3D distributions of surfactants on polymeric nonwovens. Optical contrast was achieved by introducing a fluorescent dye via vaporisation at elevated temperatures, which preferentially dissolves into the hydrophilic surfactant regions of the nonwoven sample. The method is quantitative and allows the patch wise heterogenic distribution of surfactant coatings on complex 3D nonwoven materials to be visualised. To understand the interaction between surfactants and nonwoven polyolefins, several chemical properties and physicochemical descriptors of nonwoven materials were determined including wettability, specific surface area, surface energy, solvent sorption kinetics, and their surface elemental composition. Specific surface area BET measurements demonstrated that industrial nonwovens are characterised by generally low specific surface area values, in the range 0.1 - 4 m2/g and that inverse gas chromatography (IGC) offered best sensitivity and precision. The wettability of polyolefin surfaces is well described by the dispersive contribution of surface free energy γsD. Alkane probes are normally used for measuring γsD but dissolve in polyolefins invalidating the method. A new method using a series of normal alcohols was developed as part of this work, yielding γsD values in the range 20 - 40 mJ/m2. XPS analysis confirmed the hydrocarbon nature of polyolefinic nonwoven materials and the polar elements present responsible for the hydrophilic nature when the nonwovens were coated with surfactants, confirming surfactant treatment was not permanent. The solubility interactions between organic solutes and a range of amorphous and semicrystalline PP and PE were investigated by DSC, pycnometry, dynamic vapour sorption (DVS) and ellipsometry. The work confirmed that the presence of crystalline regions decreased the sorption of organic solutes in polyolefins. DVS studies of the sorption and desorption kinetics for small organic molecules in polyolefin films demonstrated that temperature increased diffusion rates and the amounts of solutes sorbed. However, increasing molecular size, or polarity, of the solute decreased the solubility. DVS combined with ellipsometry was used to determine the processes responsible for surfactant loss in thin polyolefin films. The amount of water sorbed by a polyolefin material was used here for the first time as a proxy for the amount of surfactant present on the polyolefin surface. DVS studies confirmed very slow mass losses due to surfactant evaporation from the surfactant coated polymers. However, the total rate of surfactant mass loss from the polymer surface was 10 times higher than the evaporative losses. The significant solubility of the non-polar surfactants and organic solutes in different polymer analogues was experimentally estimated. Based on these studies the hypothesis was that there are two processes causing surfactant loss from the polyolefin surface: • slow surface evaporation of the surfactants into the surrounding environment • a faster concurrent dissolution of the surfactant into the bulk polyolefin In summary, this thesis, provides new experimental insights into the interaction between liquid solutes, including surfactants, with semi-amorphous polyolefin materials including nonwoven fabrics.Open Acces

SYNTHESIS AND EVALUATION OF ANTIMICROBIAL ACTIVITY OF PHENYL AND FURAN-2-YL[1,2,4] TRIAZOLO[4,3-a]QUINOXALIN-4(5H)-ONE AND THEIR HYDRAZONE PRECURSORS

A variety of 1-(s-phenyl)-[1,2,4]triazolo[4,3-a]quinoxalin-4(5H)-one (3a-3h) and 1-(s-furan-2-yl)-[1,2,4]triazolo[4,3- a]quinoxalin-4(5H)-one (5a-d) were synthesized from thermal annelation of corresponding hydrazones (2a-h) and (4a-d) respectively in the presence of ethylene glycol which is a high boiling solvent. The structures of the compounds prepared were confirmed by analytical and spectral data. Also, the newly synthesized compounds were evaluated for possible antimicrobial activity. 3-(2-(4-hydroxylbenzylidene)hydrazinyl)quinoxalin-2(1H)-one (2e) was the most active antibacterial agent while 1-(5-Chlorofuran-2-yl)-[1,2,4]triazolo[4,3-a]quinoxalin-4(5H)-one (5c) stood out as the most potent antifungal agent

Real-time simulation and visualisation of cloth using edge-based adaptive meshes

Real-time rendering and the animation of realistic virtual environments and characters has progressed at a great pace, following advances in computer graphics hardware in the last decade. The role of cloth simulation is becoming ever more important in the quest to improve the realism of virtual environments. The real-time simulation of cloth and clothing is important for many applications such as virtual reality, crowd simulation, games and software for online clothes shopping. A large number of polygons are necessary to depict the highly exible nature of cloth with wrinkling and frequent changes in its curvature. In combination with the physical calculations which model the deformations, the effort required to simulate cloth in detail is very computationally expensive resulting in much diffculty for its realistic simulation at interactive frame rates. Real-time cloth simulations can lack quality and realism compared to their offline counterparts, since coarse meshes must often be employed for performance reasons. The focus of this thesis is to develop techniques to allow the real-time simulation of realistic cloth and clothing. Adaptive meshes have previously been developed to act as a bridge between low and high polygon meshes, aiming to adaptively exploit variations in the shape of the cloth. The mesh complexity is dynamically increased or refined to balance quality against computational cost during a simulation. A limitation of many approaches is they do not often consider the decimation or coarsening of previously refined areas, or otherwise are not fast enough for real-time applications. A novel edge-based adaptive mesh is developed for the fast incremental refinement and coarsening of a triangular mesh. A mass-spring network is integrated into the mesh permitting the real-time adaptive simulation of cloth, and techniques are developed for the simulation of clothing on an animated character

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America (1994) [Entire]

Preface 7 Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9 Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19 Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31 What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39 Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45 The Transformation of Men into Masquerades and Indian Madras into Masquerade Cloth in Buguma, Nigeria Elisha P. Renne and Joanne B. Eicher 53 Discussant: Discussion of “Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa” Christopher B. Steiner 63 Foreign Contact in the Pacific Rim The Conversion of Chinese Court Robes into Japanese Festival Hangings Gloria Granz Gonick 67 Micronesian Textiles in Transition: The Woven Tol of Kosrae Ann Deegan and Ross Cordy 81 Bolong-Bolong and Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group of Balinese Textiles Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff and Monika Palm-Nadolny 93 Green Labels with Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons for Malaysia and Indonesia Frieda Sorber 105 Looking to the Past, Looking to the Future: Two Contemporary Approaches Continuity of Culture: A Reenactor’s Goal Elizabeth McClure 117 The Influence of Computer Technologies on Contemporary Woven Fiber Art Cynthia Schira 127 Featured Paper: Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence and Development of the Two Basic Lace Techniques Santina Levey and Milton Sonday 139 Panel: New Meanings, Borrowed Forms: Flux and Influx in the Textile Traditions of Flores, Indonesia Supplementary Weft on an “Ikat” Isle: The Weaving Communities of Northwestern Flores Roy W. Hamilton 147 The “Severed Shroud”: Local and Imported Textiles in the Mortuary Rites of an Indonesian People Penelope Graham 159 From the Ancestors or the Portuguese: Exotic Textiles in Flores and the Solor Archipelago (abstract only) Robyn Maxwell 167 Cloth as Marriage Gifts. Change in Exchange among the Lio of Flores Willemijn de Jong 169 Crossover: Motifs Transformed Byzantine Influences along the Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed Anna Maria Muthesius 181 The Pomegranate Pattern in Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins and Influence Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 193 Ottoman Silks and Their Legacy (abstract only) Diane Mott 205 The Assimilation of European Designs into Twentieth Century Indian Saris Linda Lynton 207 Continuity: Influence of the Marketplace Raphael’s Acts of the Apostles Tapestries: The Birth of the Tapestry Reproduction System Marjorie Durko Puryear 217 Market Effects on the Design and Construction of Carpets in the Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993 Charlotte A. Jirousek 229 Traditional Techniques in New Settings Featured Paper: Charmingly Quaint and Still Modern: The Paradox of Colonial Revival Needlework in America, 1875–1940 Beverly Gordon 241 From Bohemian to Bourgeois: American Batik in the Early Twentieth Century Nicola J. Shilliam 253 New Twist on Shibori: How an Old Tradition Survives in the New World When Japanese Wooden Poles are Replaced by American PVC Pipes Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada 265 Video: Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques of the Hmong (video script) Joyce Smith 271 Panel: Fashioning Identity: Appropriation and Creativity in Pre-Columbian and Contemporary Andean Cloth Anni Albers: Pre-Columbian Resonances, The Significance of Pre-Columbian Art in Her Textiles and Writings Virginia Gardner Troy 281 Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium and Measure of Cultural Identity Niki R. Clark and Amy Oakland Rodman 293 Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje: Looking at Appropriation and Identity with Only Material Remains Ann Peters 305 Dressing the Part: Indigenous Costume as Political and Cultural Discourse in Peru Katharine E. Seibold 319 Ethnic Artists and the Appropriation of Fashion: Embroidery and Identity in the Colca Valley, Peru Blenda Femenias 331 (Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations in Dress and Society in Bolivia Elayne Zorn 343 Appendix: Roster of Participants at the 1994 Symposium 35

Sustainable Textile Marketing

We know that sustainability has become an important topic in every aspect of life. The textile, fashion, and material industries must also be sustainable, which could be imparted in their development, production, or even marketing. The textile industry has a huge market, as clothing is arguably the most important human need after food. Recently, this industry has been labeled as a polluting industry, a label that could be overcome by the proper development of textile goods and careful marketing strategies. There are specific roles that government, entrepreneurs, and even universities can play in properly educating people to make the textile industry cleaner and greener. Several journals focus only on one of the aspects of this key problem, i.e., the production of sustainable materials, textile education, or textile marketing. However, herein, we strive to bring different areas together on one platform to cover different aspects, i.e., production, policy, education, and marketing related to textile fashion and textile materials