Wave modelling - the state of the art

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered. The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments

Current effects on scattering of surface gravity waves by bottom topography

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal currents are often significant. A perturbation expansion of the wave action to second order in powers of the bottom amplitude yields an evolution equation for the wave action spectrum. A scattering source term gives the rate of exchange of the wave action spectrum between wave components, with conservation of the total action at each absolute frequency. With and without current, the scattering term yields reflection coefficients for the amplitudes of waves that converge, to the results of previous theories for monochromatic waves propagating in one dimension over sinusoidal bars. Over sandy continental shelves, tidal currents are known to generate sandwaves with scales comparable to those of surface waves. Application of the theory to such a real topography suggests that scattering mainly results in a broadening of the directional wave spectrum, due to forward scattering, while the back-scattering is generally weaker. The current may strongly influence surface gravity wave scattering by selecting different bottom scales with widely different spectral densities due the sharp bottom spectrum roll-off.Comment: submitted to Journal of Fluid Mechanics 7 Oct 200

An Entropy Stable Nodal Discontinuous Galerkin Method for the Two Dimensional Shallow Water Equations on Unstructured Curvilinear Meshes with Discontinuous Bathymetry

We design an arbitrary high-order accurate nodal discontinuous Galerkin spectral element approximation for the nonlinear two dimensional shallow water equations with non-constant, possibly discontinuous, bathymetry on unstructured, possibly curved, quadrilateral meshes. The scheme is derived from an equivalent flux differencing formulation of the split form of the equations. We prove that this discretisation exactly preserves the local mass and momentum. Furthermore, combined with a special numerical interface flux function, the method exactly preserves the mathematical entropy, which is the total energy for the shallow water equations. By adding a specific form of interface dissipation to the baseline entropy conserving scheme we create a provably entropy stable scheme. That is, the numerical scheme discretely satisfies the second law of thermodynamics. Finally, with a particular discretisation of the bathymetry source term we prove that the numerical approximation is well-balanced. We provide numerical examples that verify the theoretical findings and furthermore provide an application of the scheme for a partial break of a curved dam test problem

Experimental study of breathers and rogue waves generated by random waves over non-uniform bathymetry

Experimental results describing random, uni-directional, long crested, water waves over non-uniform bathymetry confirm the formation of stable coherent wave packages traveling with almost uniform group velocity. The waves are generated with JONSWAP spectrum for various steepness, height and constant period. A set of statistical procedures were applied to the experimental data, including the space and time variation of kurtosis, skewness, BFI, Fourier and moving Fourier spectra, and probability distribution of wave heights. Stable wave packages formed out of the random field and traveling over shoals, valleys and slopes were compared with exact solutions of the NLS equation resulting in good matches and demonstrating that these packages are very similar to deep water breathers solutions, surviving over the non-uniform bathymetry. We also present events of formation of rogue waves over those regions where the BFI, kurtosis and skewness coefficients have maximal values.Comment: 41 pages, 21 figure

A discontinuous Galerkin method for a new class of Green-Naghdi equations on simplicial unstructured meshes

In this paper, we introduce a discontinuous Finite Element formulation on simplicial unstructured meshes for the study of free surface flows based on the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi equations. Working with a new class of asymptotically equivalent equations, which have a simplified analytical structure, we consider a decoupling strategy: we approximate the solutions of the classical shallow water equations supplemented with a source term globally accounting for the non-hydrostatic effects and we show that this source term can be computed through the resolution of scalar elliptic second-order sub-problems. The assets of the proposed discrete formulation are: (i) the handling of arbitrary unstructured simplicial meshes, (ii) an arbitrary order of approximation in space, (iii) the exact preservation of the motionless steady states, (iv) the preservation of the water height positivity, (v) a simple way to enhance any numerical code based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The resulting numerical model is validated through several benchmarks involving nonlinear wave transformations and run-up over complex topographies