Multivariate analysis of nonlinearity in sandbar behavior

International audienceAlongshore sandbars are often present in the nearshore zones of storm-dominated micro- to mesotidal coasts. Sandbar migration is the result of a large number of small-scale physical processes that are generated by the incoming waves and the interaction between the wave-generated processes and the morphology. The presence of nonlinearity in a sandbar system is an important factor determining its predictability. However, not all nonlinearities in the underlying system are equally expressed in the time-series of sandbar observations. Detecting the presence of nonlinearity in sandbar data is complicated by the dependence of sandbar migration on the external wave forcings. Here, a method for detecting nonlinearity in multivariate time-series data is introduced that can reveal the nonlinear nature of the dependencies between system state and forcing variables. First, this method is applied to four synthetic datasets to demonstrate its ability to qualify nonlinearity for all possible combinations of linear and nonlinear relations between two variables. Next, the method is applied to three sandbar datasets consisting of daily-observed cross-shore sandbar positions and hydrodynamic forcings, spanning between 5 and 9 years. Our analysis reveals the presence of nonlinearity in the time-series of sandbar and wave data, and the relative importance of nonlinearity for each variable. The relation between the results of each sandbar case and patterns in bar behavior are discussed, together with the effects of noise. The small effect of nonlinearity implies that long-term prediction of sandbar positions based on wave forcings might not require sophisticated nonlinear models

Проблеми структурної модернізації регіонального ринку трудових ресурсів АПК в експертній оцінці працівників органів регіонального управління

Barriers and sandbars are ubiquitous natural coastal features, whose variability often determines nearshore morphological evolution. Wave-dominated beach profile evolution results from the interaction between wave non-linearities, wave-breaking induced turbulence, undertow, infragravity motions and swash processes. To explore each of these contributions to the sediment transport, the full-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX II), performed in the Delta Flume in June 2012, provides a new dataset for the rigorous testing of the performance of beach profile evolution models in the case of steep beaches. This new experiment will improve our knowledge on (1) swash zone processes, including infiltration and exfiltration of water into the sand and subsequent groundwater table response, (2) bore-generated turbulence inducing suspend sediment transport, (3) surfzone sandbar dynamics and (4) overtopping/overwash impact on barrier dynamics. This study aims at testing the ability of the process-based beach profile model 1DBeach in the case of a steep beachface and a predominance of plunging breakers. In this context, we tested the model with a morphological sequence characterised by onshore and subsequent rapid offshore sandbar migration for time-invariant wave forcing and falling tide. A simulated annealing algorithm is used to calibrate the model. In this paper, we discuss the model configuration and associated results, as well as the need of intensive high-frequency full-scale data to further develop and improve process-based models

Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

We use a numerical model, already validated for this purpose, to simulate the effect of wave frequency spread on wave transformation and swash amplitudes. Simulations are performed for planar beach slope cases and for offshore wave spectra whose frequency spread changes over realistic values. Results indicate that frequency spread, under normally approaching waves, affects swash amplitudes. For moderately dissipative conditions, the significant infragravity swash increases for increasing values of the offshore frequency spread. The opposite occurs under extremely dissipative conditions. The numerical analysis suggests that this inverted pattern is driven by the effect that different distributions of incoming long?wave energy have on low?frequency wave propagation and dissipation. In fact, with large frequency spreads, wave groups force relatively short subharmonic waves that are strongly enhanced in the shoaling zone. This process leads to an infragravity swash increase for increasing frequency spread under moderately dissipative conditions in which low?frequency energy dissipation in shallow water is negligible or small. However, under extremely dissipative conditions, the significant low?frequency energy dissipation associated with large frequency spreads overturns the strong energy growth in the shoaling zone eventually yielding an infragravity swash decrease for increasing frequency spread.This work has been funded under (1) the RETOS INVESTIGACION 2014 (Grant BIA2014-59718-R) program of the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness and (2) the NEPTUNE 2 project, L. R. 7/2007 by Regione Autonoma della Sardegna

Non-linear complex principal component analysis of nearshore bathymetry

International audienceComplex principal component analysis (CPCA) is a useful linear method for dimensionality reduction of data sets characterized by propagating patterns, where the CPCA modes are linear functions of the complex principal component (CPC), consisting of an amplitude and a phase. The use of non-linear methods, such as the neural-network based circular non-linear principal component analysis (NLPCA.cir) and the recently developed non-linear complex principal component analysis (NLCPCA), may provide a more accurate description of data in case the lower-dimensional structure is non-linear. NLPCA.cir extracts non-linear phase information without amplitude variability, while NLCPCA is capable of extracting both. NLCPCA can thus be viewed as a non-linear generalization of CPCA. In this article, NLCPCA is applied to bathymetry data from the sandy barred beaches at Egmond aan Zee (Netherlands), the Hasaki coast (Japan) and Duck (North Carolina, USA) to examine how effective this new method is in comparison to CPCA and NLPCA.cir in representing propagating phenomena. At Duck, the underlying low-dimensional data structure is found to have linear phase and amplitude variability only and, accordingly, CPCA performs as well as NLCPCA. At Egmond, the reduced data structure contains non-linear spatial patterns (asymmetric bar/trough shapes) without much temporal amplitude variability and, consequently, is about equally well modelled by NLCPCA and NLPCA.cir. Finally, at Hasaki, the data structure displays not only non-linear spatial variability but also considerably temporal amplitude variability, and NLCPCA outperforms both CPCA and NLPCA.cir. Because it is difficult to know the structure of data in advance as to which one of the three models should be used, the generalized NLCPCA model can be used in each situation

Observations of velocities, sand concentrations, and fluxes under velocity-asymmetric oscillatory flows

Peer reviewedPublisher PD

Остаточный энергетический потенциал низкокалорийных отходов угольного производства: критерии оценки

Розглянуто загальні проблеми, пов’язані із залученням до господарського обороту низькокалорійних відходів видобування і збагачення вугілля. Наведено результати систематизації і узагальнення інформації про їх технічні характеристики, викладено методичні підходи до вибору критеріїв оцінки їх енергетичного потенціалу. Ключові слова: вугілля, енергозбереження, відходи виробництва, вторинні ресурси.Рассмотрены общие проблемы, связанные с вовлечением в хозяйственный оборот низкокалорийных отходов добычи и обогащения угля. Приведены результаты систематизации и обобщения информации об их технических характеристиках, изложены методические подходы к выбору критериев оценки их энергетического потенциала. Ключевые слова: уголь, энергосбережение, отходы производства, вторичные ресурсы.The general problems connected with involving of low-calorie wastes of mining process and coal enrichment into economic turnover are considered. The results of systematization and generalization of the information about their technical characteristics are shown; methodical approaches to choosing the criteria of estimation of their energy potential are presented. Keywords: coal, energy saving, production wastes, secondary resources

Multi‐decadal coastline dynamics in Suriname controlled by migrating subtidal mudbanks

This is the final version. Available from Wiley via the DOI in this record. DATA AVAILABILITY STATEMENT The pre-processing scripts that are used to define outliers for coastline position estimates and annual change metrics are available through Github: https://github.com/jobbo90/offshore_boundary/ releases/tag/v0.2 The reported coastline position estimates and indications of mudbank presence can be found in the online GEE repository (v02), which also includes the scripts used to derive these indicators: https://code.earthengine.google.com/?accept_repo=users/jobdevries90/ MangroMud The UAV drone datasets used and/or analysed during the current study are available from the corresponding author on reasonable request.For the development of climate-resilient coastal management strategies, which focus on challenges in the decades to come, it is critical to incorporate spatial and temporal variability of coastline changes. This is particularly true for the mud-dominated coastline of Suriname, part of the Guianas, where migrating subtidal mudbanks cause a cyclic instability of erosion and accretion of the coast that can be directly related to interbank and bank phases. The coastline hosts extensive mangrove forests, providing valuable ecosystem services to local communities. Recent studies on mudbank dynamics in Suriname predominantly focused on large-scale trends without accounting for local variability, or on local changes considering the dynamics of a single mudbank over relatively short time scales. Here we use a remote sensing approach, with sufficient spatial and temporal resolution and full spatial and temporal coverage, to quantify the influence of mudbank migration on spatiotemporal coastline dynamics along the entire coast of Suriname. We show that migration of six to eight subtidal mudbanks in front of the Suriname coast has a strong imprint on local coastline dynamics between 1986 and 2020, with an average 32 m/yr accretion during mudbank presence and 4 m/yr retreat of the coastline during mudbank absence. Yet, coastal erosion can still occur when mudbanks are present and coastal aggregation may happen in the absence of mudbanks, exemplifying local variability and thus suggesting the importance of other drivers of coastline changes. The novel remote sensing workflow allowed us to analyse local spatial and temporal variations in the magnitude and timing of expanding and retreating trajectories. Our results demonstrate that it is essential that all coastal behaviours, including changes that cannot be explained by the migration of mudbanks, are included in multi-decadal management frameworks that try to explain current variability, and predict future coastline changes in Suriname.NWO WOTRO Joint Sustainability Development Goal Research Progra

Sediment transport in non-linear skewed oscillatory flows : the TRANSKEW experiments

Peer reviewedPreprin

Unmixing water and mud: Characterizing diffuse boundaries of subtidal mud banks from individual satellite observations

This is the final version. Available from Elsevier via the DOI in this record. Mapping of subtidal banks in mud-dominated coastal systems is crucial as they influence not only shoreline and ecosystem dynamics but also economic activities and livelihoods of local communities. Due to associated spatiotemporal variations in suspended particulate matter concentrations, subtidal mudbanks are often confined by diffuse and rapidly changing boundaries. To avoid inaccurate representations of these mudbanks in remote sensing images, it is necessary to unmix distinctive reflectance signals into representative landcover fractions. Yet, extracting mud fractions, in order to characterize such diffuse boundaries, is challenging because of the spectral similarity between subtidal- and intertidal features. Here we show that an unsupervised decision tree, used to derive spatially explicit and spectrally coherent image endmembers, facilitates robust linear spectral unmixing on an image-to-image basis, enabling the separation of these coastal features. We found that resulting abundance maps represent cross-shore gradients of vegetation, water and mud fractions present at the coast of Suriname. Furthermore, we confirmed that it is possible to separate land, water and an initial estimate of intertidal zones on individual images. Thus, spectral signatures of end-member candidates, determined from relevant index histograms within these initial estimates, are consistent. These results demonstrate that spectral information from well-defined spatial neighbourhoods facilitates the detection of diffuse boundaries of mudbanks with a spectral unmixing approach.NWO WOTR

Spectral quantification of nonlinear behaviour of the nearshore seabed and correlations with potential forcings at Duck, N.C., U.S.A

Local bathymetric quasi-periodic patterns of oscillation are identified from monthly profile surveys taken at two shore-perpendicular transects at the USACE field research facility in Duck, North Carolina, USA, spanning 24.5 years and covering the swash and surf zones. The chosen transects are the two furthest (north and south) from the pier located at the study site. Research at Duck has traditionally focused on one or more of these transects as the effects of the pier are least at these locations. The patterns are identified using singular spectrum analysis (SSA). Possible correlations with potential forcing mechanisms are discussed by 1) doing an SSA with same parameter settings to independently identify the quasi-periodic cycles embedded within three potentially linked sequences: monthly wave heights (MWH), monthly mean water levels (MWL) and the large scale atmospheric index known as the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and 2) comparing the patterns within MWH, MWL and NAO to the local bathymetric patterns. The results agree well with previous patterns identified using wavelets and confirm the highly nonstationary behaviour of beach levels at Duck; the discussion of potential correlations with hydrodynamic and atmospheric phenomena is a new contribution. The study is then extended to all measured bathymetric profiles, covering an area of 1100m (alongshore) by 440m (cross-shore), to 1) analyse linear correlations between the bathymetry and the potential forcings using multivariate empirical orthogonal functions (MEOF) and linear correlation analysis and 2) identify which collective quasi-periodic bathymetric patterns are correlated with those within MWH, MWL or NAO, based on a (nonlinear) multichannel singular spectrum analysis (MSSA). (...continued in submitted paper)Comment: 50 pages, 3 tables, 8 figure