53 research outputs found

    Collapse and recovery process of the sand spit at the Tenryu River mouth on the Pacific Coast of Japan

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    This paper investigates the collapse and recovery processes of the sand spit at the Tenryu River mouth on the Pacific Coast of Japan, when two characteristic typhoons, Man-Yi and Fitow, passed over the study site in the year 2007. Although these two typhoons caused equally high storm waves, these two events were different in principal wave directions and in the amount of river discharges. As a result, Man-Yi collapsed the sand spit, while Fitow rather enhanced the recovery of the sand spit. Successive still images recorded by six field cameras were analyzed to investigate the dynamic morphology change of the river mouth for 2 months during which these two events had occurred. Comparisons of obtained topography changes and various hydrodynamic characteristics yielded several findings: (i) the sand spit was breached approximately 6 h after the peak of flow velocity and 2 h after the peak of the water head difference across the sand spit; (ii) the breached part of the sand spit was refilled by wave-induced shoreward sediment transport; and (iii) a core sample showed three clear layers of graded sedimentary structures of gravel, which correspond to the number of observed high waves overtopping the sand spit

    Laboratory of Internal Medicine

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    Surf zone hydrodynamics

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    Thesis (S.M.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2001.Includes bibliographical references (leaves 132-137).by Yoshimitsu Tajima.S.M

    Waves, currents, and sediment transport in the surf zone along long, straight beaches

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    Thesis (Ph. D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2004.Includes bibliographical references (p. 293-313).This study presents a theoretical model for predictions of near-shore hydrodynamic characteristics and the local sediment transport rate along long, straight beaches. The wave may be periodic or random, the beach may be plane or barred, and the bed may be concrete or covered with movable natural sand grains. The present model must be efficient and flexible so that it can accommodate iterative computations for time-varying and hence arbitrary beach profiles. The near-shore hydrodynamics model consists of wave, surface roller, and near- shore current models. Both wave and surface roller models are based on simple energy balance equations and, based on these models, the near-shore current is determined from two-layer 2DH momentum equations. Coupled with a simple turbulent eddy viscosity model, vertical profiles of mean shear current are analytically obtained. The model accounts for advective interactions between waves, surface rollers, and currents and, coupled with the surface roller model, explain the shoreward shift of the peak longshore current velocity. The model applies a modified version of Madsen's (1994) wave-current bottom boundary layer model to specify the bottom boundary condition from knowledge of equivalent bottom roughness scaled by a sediment diameter.(cont.) Introducing the predicted near-shore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Mad- sen, 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shore line and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.by Yoshimitsu Tajima.Ph.D
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