Run-up characterstics of symmetrical solitary tsunami waves of unknown shapes

The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical solitary tsunami waves. It will be demonstrated that the extreme (maximal) wave characteristics on a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities and breaking parameter) are weakly dependent on the shape of incident wave if the definition of the significant wave length determined on the 2/3 level of the maximum height is used. The universal analytical expressions for the extreme wave characteristics are derived for the run-up of the solitary pulses. They can be directly applicable for tsunami warning because in many case the shape of the incident tsunami wave is unknown.Comment: Submitted to PAGEOP

Kinetic theory of Rossby waves : abstract of the investigations presented to obtain the academic degree of Doctor of mathematics

http://www.ester.ee/record=b2470665*es

Improving benefits realisation management process in Statoil Fuel & Retail AS

2016-06-0

Modelling of wave climate and sediment transport patterns at a tideless embayed beach, Pirita Beach, Estonia

Nearshore sand transport patterns along the tideless, embayed Pirita beach, Tallinn, Estonia, have been investigated utilizing high-resolution modelling of wave processes combined with bathymetric surveys and sediment textural analyses of the nearshore sea floor. Textural analysis showed the mean grain size is about 0.12 mm. Fine sand (0.063–0.125 mm) accounts for about 77% of the sediments. Coarser-grained sand (0.28 mm) dominates along the waterline. Based upon the spatial distribution of the mean grain size and basic features of the local wave activity, properties of the Dean Equilibrium Beach Profile were determined. Alongshore sediment transport was calculated based upon a long-term time series of wave properties along the beach, and the CERC formula applied to about 500 m long beach sectors. The time series of wave fields and the properties of the local wave climate were modelled using a triple nested WAM wave model with an extended spectral range for short waves. The model is forced by open sea wind data from Kalbådagrund for the years 1981–2002. Results indicate that typical closure depth at Pirita is 2.5 m. The width and mean slope of the equilibrium profile are 250 m and 1:100, respectively. Southward transport dominates in the northern sections of the beach whereas no prevailing transport direction exists in the southern sections. This pattern has several nontrivial implications for the planning of beach protection activities

Kaitseväe Ühendatud Õppeasutuste põhikursuste kadettide kogemused, uskumused ja ettepanekud seoses nutivahendite kasutamisega õppetegevuseks

http://www.ester.ee/record=b4600617*es

Changes in wave dynamics at the south-eastern coast of the Baltic Proper during 1993–2008

Using data gathered by visual wave observations at three Lithuanian coastal observation sites during 1993-2008, we make an attempt to relate the recent changes in the intensity of coastal processes on the Lithuanian coast to changes in the local wave regime. There exist considerable interannual variations in the overall wave activity but no statistically significant trends in wave heights for the study period. The directional distribution of wave approach directions has become considerably narrower since about 2002. This feature is most prominent at Palanga where since 2002 almost all waves have approached from SW. This change apparently leads to a decrease in the sediment supply to the Curonian Spit and to a certain starvation of the Lithuanian coast

Spectral evolution of two-layer weak geostrophic turbulence. Part I: Typical scenarios

International audienceLong-time evolution of large-scale geophysical flows is considered in a ?-plane approximation. Motions in an infinite 2-layer model ocean are treated as a system of weakly nonlinear Rossby waves (weak geostrophic turbulence). The evolution of the energy spectrum of the barotropic and the baroclinic modes is investigated on the basis of numerical experiments with the kinetic equation for baroclinic Rossby waves. The basic features of free (nonforced inviscid) spectral evolution of baroclinic flows are similar to those of the barotropic motions. A portion of the energy is transferred to a sharp spectral peak while the rest of it is isotropically distributed. The peak corresponds to an intensive nearly zonal barotropic flow. Typically, this well-defined barotropic zonal anisotropy inhibits the reinforcement of its baroclinic analogy. For a certain set of initial conditions (in particular, if the barotropic zonal flow is not present initially), a zonal anisotropy of both modes is generated. The interplay between the multimodal nearly zonal flow components leads to the excitation of large-scale (several times exceeding the scale of the initial state), mostly meridional, baroclinic motions at the expense of the barotropic nearly zonal flow. The underlying mechanism is explained on the level of elementary mixed-triad interaction. The whole wave field retains its essentially baroclinic as well as spectrally broad nature. It evidently tends towards a thermodynamically equilibrated final state, consisting of the superposition of a (usually barotropic, but occasionally multimodal) zonal flow and a wave system with a Raleigh-Jeans spectrum. This evolution takes place as a multi-staged process, with fast convergence of the modal spectra to a local equilibrium followed by a more gradual adjustment of the energy balance between the modes

Spatial variations in the Caspian Sea wave climate in 2002-2013 from satellite altimetry

The core properties of the wave climate and its changes in the Caspian Sea are established in terms of the annual mean significant wave height and its regional changes in 2002-2013 based on the outcome of the satellite altimetry mission JASON-1. Remotely estimated wave heights are validated against properties of the empirical distribution of instrumentally measured wave heights in the southern Caspian Sea and monthly averages of visually observed wave heights at three locations. A correction for systematic differences leads to very good correspondence between monthly averaged in situ and satellite data with a typical root mean square difference of 0.06 m. The average significant wave height in the Caspian Sea is 0.5-0.7 m in the northern basin of the sea, around 1.2 m in large parts of the central and southern basins and reaches up to 1.8 m in the northern segment of the central basin. The basin-wide average wave intensity varied insignificantly in the range of 1.02-1.14 m in 2002-2013. These estimates overestimate the wave heights by about 30% because low wave conditions are ignored. Substantial and statistically significant changes in the wave height occurred in certain areas. The wave height decreased by 0.019 +- 0.007 m/yr in the eastern segment of the central basin and by 0.04 +- 0.04 m/yr in the western segment of the southern basin. These changes can be explained by an increase in the frequency of westerly winds at the expence of southerly winds. Both basin-wide and regional extreme wave heights exhibit large interannual variations but do not show any significant trend. The patterns of changes in mean and extreme wave height are different. The average wave height has increased while the extreme wave height has decreased in the eastern segment of the southern basin.Comment: 16 pages, 10 figure