Process-based indicators to assess storm induced coastal hazards

Storms are responsible for several hazards (e.g. overwash, erosion, inundation) in coastal areas, leading to the destruction of property and loss of life in populated areas. Various indicators are used to express potential storm impact and describe the associated hazards. The most commonly used indicators include either forcing parameters (e.g. wave height, sea level) or coastal morphologies (e.g. dune height or berm width). Whereas they do not represent the processes associated with storm induced hazards in coastal areas. Alternatively, a hazard could be better characterised if process-based indicators are used instead. Process-based indicators express the result of the forcing mechanisms acting over the coastal morphology and reflect both hydrodynamic and morphological characteristics. This work discusses and synthesizes the most relevant process-based indicators for sandy shores subject to overwash, erosion and inundation promoted by storms. Those include: overwash depth, potential and extent; shoreline, berm or dune retreat; vertical erosion; and inundation depth and extent. The selection of a reduced set of process-based indicators to identify coastal hazards induced by storms in sandy coasts will facilitate comparison of different coastal behaviours for distinct storm return periods, and help to optimise coastal management plans, thereby contributing to the reduction of coastal risks.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Modeling of coastal erosion in exposed and groin-protected steep beaches

Process-based models are suitable tools for reproducing storm-driven erosion. However, their performance has been mainly examined on mild-slope sandy beaches and their use on steep beaches still represents a challenge. Here, open-source process-based model XBeach experiments were combined with topographical measurements collected for two storms (16- and 5-year return period) to obtain a reliable model. The model parameters “facua” (parameterized wave asymmetry and skewness sediment transport component), “bermslope” (upslope transport term for semireflective beaches), and “wetslope” (critical avalanching submerged slope) were utilized for calibration and validation. The 16-year storm simulations on an exposed beach revealed that whether bermslope increased and “facua” must be reduced, and vice versa, to properly simulate erosion. Adding bermslope provided excellent results for these storms when using facua and wetslope values close to the recommended values. In a groin-protected site, XBeach was successfully calibrated and validated for the tested storms using these parameters, although with different values. These experiments demonstrated that the appropriate use of these parameters can satisfactorily simulate morphological changes on steep beaches for different hydrodynamic conditions and coastal settings (exposed and groin protected).info:eu-repo/semantics/acceptedVersio

Erasmus experience between the University of Cadiz (Spain) and the University of Algarve (Portugal)

A mobility program was carried out during the last two years between the Universities of Cadiz (Spain) and Algarve (Portugal) under the EU funded Erasmus+ Mobility for Teaching. The objective of the mobility was twofold: on one hand, it included the strengthening of the existing scientific cooperation between the University of Cadiz (home institution) and the University of Algarve (host institution) in the field of the Gulf of Cadiz Physical Oceanography; on the other hand, it pretended to improve the teaching quality, focusing on both the lecturers and the students. Both institutions have long ties of cooperation that have recently been intensified under the umbrella of the International Campus of Marine Excellence (CeiMar). Specific objectives oriented towards the lecturers included the exchange of teaching experiences among them as well as the comparison of teaching strategies and methodologies between the host and home institutions at the Master level in order to evaluate and enhance the best teaching practices with the aim of improving the students learning process. Specific objectives oriented towards the students included: (1) to provide local students that cannot afford studying a Master degree abroad with a foreign teacher in the discipline that will offer them different added expectations; (2) to teach students different subjects from those taught at the host institution, thus benefitting from new scientific knowledge and experiences. It must be pointed out that the subject taught by the home institution lecturer represents a competence lacking at the host institution, hence complementing the program of the discipline and providing an added value to the Master degree. Informal questionnaires carried out among students by the host institution revealed that they evaluated having a foreign teacher as a very positive experience. In terms of research, collaboration among both institutions is of great importance because they are both located within the same geographic region and hence, they share common interests. The mobility promoted finishing on-going collaborative publications as well as sharing new research experiences, data and knowledge, hence leading to an improvement of the Physical Oceanography state-of-the-art in the Gulf of Cadiz. In fact, two scientific papers on the Gulf of Cadiz circulation system and two on the storm climate along the Gulf of Cadiz and its relation with coastal hazards have been recently published as a direct result of the mobility program.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Assessing the effects of Tidal Energy Converter array size on hydrodynamics of Ria Formosa (Portugal)

info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Contribution of storms to shoreline changes in mesotidal dissipative beaches: case study in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain)

In this study an analysis of storminess and rates of shoreline change is performed and discussed jointly in four geomorphological units of the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain) for the period of 1956-2010. For this purpose, storm events are identified based on the following characteristics: wave height above 2.5 m, a minimum duration of 12 h and events with calm periods of less than 24 h were considered as a single event. Subsequently, energy parameters are determined in order to characterize storm-induced impacts. Conversely, geographic information system (GIS) tools are used to measure shoreline changes in aerial photographs and orthophotographs of each site, selecting the high water line as shoreline proxy. Each geomorphological unit is divided into different behavioural patterns according to recorded coastal changes, so that each one shows a particular behaviour.In general the variability of shoreline changes that is explained by storms and the relation between storm parameters and coastal changes present better results in exposed areas (Cadiz and Vistahermosa) than in sheltered areas (Valdelagrana spit barrier) because the former are more sensitive to storm impacts. On the contrary, in areas where there is no relation between coastal changes and storm parameters (Valdelagrana and Sancti Petri sand spit), it is suggested that anthropogenic factors are the main forcing agents determining shoreline behaviour. However, in these areas the storminess also modulates coastline recession by increasing erosion when the number of storms is high

Establishing storm thresholds for the spanish gulf of Cádiz coast

In this study critical thresholds are defined for storm impacts along the Spanish coast of the Gulf of Cádiz. The thresholds correspond to the minimum wave and tide conditions necessary to produce significant morphological changes on beaches and dunes and/or damage on coastal infrastructure or human occupation. Threshold definition was performed by computing theoretical sea-level variations during storms and comparing them with the topography of the study area and the location of infrastructure at a local level. Specifically, the elevations of the berm, the dune foot and the entrance of existing washovers were selected as threshold parameters. The total sea-level variation generated by a storm event was estimated as the sum of the tidal level, the wind-induced setup, the barometric setup and the wave-associated sea-level variation (wave setup and runup), assuming a minimum interaction between the different processes. These components were calculated on the basis of parameterisations for significant wave height (Hs) obtained for the oceanographic and environmental conditions of the Gulf of Cadiz. For this purpose real data and reanalysis time-series (HIPOCAS project) were used. Validation of the obtained results was performed for a range of coastal settings over the study area. The obtained thresholds for beach morphological changes in spring tide conditions range between a significant wave height of 1.5 m and 3.7 m depending on beach characteristics, while for dune foot erosion are around 3.3 to 3.7 m and for damage to infrastructure around 7.2 m. In case of neap tide conditions these values are increased on average by 50% over the areas with large tidal range. Furthermore, records of real damage in coastal infrastructure caused by storms were collected at a regional level from newspapers and other bibliographic sources and compared with the hydrodynamic conditions that caused the damage. These were extracted from the hindcast database of the HIPOCAS project, including parameters such as storm duration, mean and maximum wave height and wave direction. Results show that the duration of the storm is not critical in determining the occurrence of coastal damage in the regional study area. This way, the threshold would be defined as a duration ≥30 hours, with moderate average wave height (≥3.3 m) and high maximum wave height (≥4.1 m) approaching from the 3rd and 4th quadrants, during mean or spring tide situation. The calculated thresholds constitute snapshots of risk conditions within a certain time framework. Beach and nearshore zones are extremely dynamic, and also the characteristics of occupation on the coast change over time, so critical storm thresholds will change accordingly and therefore will need to be updated

Variability in storm climate along the Gulf of Cadiz: the role of large scale atmospheric forcing and implications to coastal hazards

In the context of increased coastal hazards due to variability in storminess patterns, the danger of coastal damages and/or morphological changes is related to the sum of sea level conditions, storm surge, maximum wave height and run up values. In order to better understand the physical processes that cause the variability of the above parameters a 44 years reanalysis record (HIPOCAS) was used. The HIPOCAS time-series was validated with real wave and sea-level data using linear and vector correlation methods. In the present work changes in the magnitude, duration, frequency and approach direction of the Atlantic storms over the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Iberian Peninsula) were identified by computing various storm characteristics such as maximum wave height, total energy per storm wave direction and storm duration. The obtained time-series were compared with large-scale atmospheric indices such as the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and the East Atlantic pattern. The results show a good correlation between negative NAO values and increased storminess over the entire Gulf of Cadiz. Furthermore, negative NAO values were correlated with high residual sea level values. Finally, a joint probability analysis of storm and sea level analysis resulted in increased probabilities of the two events happening at the same time indicating higher vulnerability of the coast and increased coastal risks. The above results were compared with coastal inundation events that took place over the last winter seasons in the province of Cadiz.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Hydrodynamic and sediment dynamic modifications of tidal flow in the near-field area of offshore breakwaters

Numerical modeling was used in order to study the effect of tidal currents within a breakwater scheme that has reached morphodynamic equilibrium. Tidal flow is simulated, using a downscaling procedure from a regional numerical model, in order to investigate the small-scale hydrodynamic modifications caused by the structures in the absence of waves. Sediment transport processes at different stages of the neap and spring tidal cycle are also considered over the entire scheme. Significant modifications to the tidal currents were identified, caused by the presence of the following structures: (1) obstruction of the main tidal flow and (2) flow channelization between the structures and the coastline, leading to flow acceleration over the salients. Furthermore, the effect of the modified tidal regime on bedload sediment transport processes was investigated. The design characteristics of the scheme (i.e., gap width, offshore distance, and relative angle with respect to the tidal currents) are found to influence locally the tidal flow and the bedload transport, over the top of the salients, modulating their growth. Despite being located in a mixed-energy, wave-dominated environment, the shear stress ratio between currents and waves show a dominance of tidal processes at the sheltered areas of the scheme (i.e., behind the breakwaters) that diminishes as the incident wave period increases. Hence, in order to correctly predict the morphological evolution of such coast under the influence of coastal protection schemes, the tidal processes have to be studied in addition to the wave processes

Regional assessment of storm related overwash and breaching hazards on coastal barriers

Coastal communities are threatened by the impact of severe storms that may cause significant loss of life and damage to properties. Among the main processes behind such impacts on coastal barriers are the occurrence of overwash and breaching during storm events. In order to estimate potential losses associated with a particular event, the above processes must be properly parameterized. Here, we propose a novel methodology to estimate overwash and breaching hazards suitable for a regional scale analysis (Ø 100 km). For the overwash hazard assessment, the method is based on the application of the approach developed by Donnelly (2008) that allows the parametrisation of the overwash hazard considering both flow velocity and flow depth. Moreover, the inland extension of the associated hazard, which is critical to assess subsequent vulnerability, can also be estimated following this methodology. The proposed method requires the selection of a runup formula validated for the study area, a storm beach profile, a runup lens angle, and a percolation constant for infiltration. To assess the breaching, hazard, a new multivariable evaluation is proposed that allows ranking the potential of breaching. The multivariable evaluation combines overwash and erosion hazards as well as their extensions with the main morphological characteristics of the barrier, resulting in the breaching hazard index, that ranks from 0 to 5 (no breaching to inlet formation). Inland breaching extension is also relevant for the vulnerability assessment. The breaching extension can be estimated using historical or contemporary analogues of the nearest flood deltas. The developed approaches were applied to Ancão Peninsula (Algarve, Portugal) as a demonstration example. The advantages of the present approach are: adaptability to various environments where overwash and/or breaching processes are important, time efficiency on evaluating overwash and breaching hazards, and the assessment of hotspot areas at a regional scale.info:eu-repo/semantics/acceptedVersio

Overwash hazards assessment using a simplified process based approach

Coastal communities are threatened by the impact of severe storms that may cause significant loss or damage of property and life. One of the main processes behind such impacts is the overwash of coastal barriers. In order to estimate the losses associated with a particular event, overwash must be properly parameterized. Here, we propose a novel approach to estimate potential overwash hazards, which includes the associated major processes and crucial parameters. For that purpose it was used the parametrisation of the physical processes developed by Donnelly (2008), and the overwash hazard was related to both flow velocity and flow depth, which are in turn a function of lateral spreading of the flow and percolation. The proposed method requires the selection of a validated run-up formula for the study area; a percolation constant for infiltration; a typical value for the run-up lens; and a storm beach profile. Combining these parameters, the overwash depth and velocity for different return periods can be estimated together with the associated hazards. The advantages of the present approach are: adaptability to any environment where overwash processes are important, time efficiency on evaluating overwash hazards, and the assessment of hotspot areas at a regional scale (tens to hundred kilometres).info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio