Shallow water waves generated by subaerial solid landslides

Subaerial landslides are common events, which may generate very large water waves. The numerical modelling and simulation of these events are thus of primary interest for forecasting and mitigation of tsunami disasters. In this paper, we aim at describing these extreme events using a simplified shallow water model to derive relevant scaling laws. To cope with the problem, two different numerical codes are employed: one, SPHysics, is based on a Lagrangian meshless approach to accurately describe the impact stage whereas the other, Gerris, based on a two-phase finite-volume method is used to study the propagation of the wave. To validate Gerris for this very particular problem, two numerical cases of the literature are reproduced: a vertical sinking box and a 2-D wedge sliding down a slope. Then, to get insights into the problem of subaerial landslide-generated tsunamis and to further validate the codes for this case of landslides, a series of experiments is conducted in a water wave tank and successfully compared with the results of both codes. Based on a simplified approach, we derive different scaling laws in excellent agreement with the experiments and numerical simulation

Spectral up- and downshifting of Akhmediev breathers under wind forcing

We experimentally and numerically investigate the effect of wind forcing on the spectral dynamics of Akhmediev breathers, a wave-type known to model the modulation instability. We develop the wind model to the same order in steepness as the higher order modifcation of the nonlinear Schroedinger equation, also referred to as the Dysthe equation. This results in an asymmetric wind term in the higher order, in addition to the leading order wind forcing term. The derived model is in good agreement with laboratory experiments within the range of the facility's length. We show that the leading order forcing term amplifies all frequencies equally and therefore induces only a broadening of the spectrum while the asymmetric higher order term in the model enhances higher frequencies more than lower ones. Thus, the latter term induces a permanent upshift of the spectral mean. On the other hand, in contrast to the direct effect of wind forcing, wind can indirectly lead to frequency downshifts, due to dissipative effects such as wave breaking, or through amplification of the intrinsic spectral asymmetry of the Dysthe equation. Furthermore, the definitions of the up- and downshift in terms of peak- and mean frequencies, that are critical to relate our work to previous results, are highlighted and discussed.Comment: 30 pages, 11 figure

Numerical instability of the Akhmediev breather and a finite-gap model of it

In this paper we study the numerical instabilities of the NLS Akhmediev breather, the simplest space periodic, one-mode perturbation of the unstable background, limiting our considerations to the simplest case of one unstable mode. In agreement with recent theoretical findings of the authors, in the situation in which the round-off errors are negligible with respect to the perturbations due to the discrete scheme used in the numerical experiments, the split-step Fourier method (SSFM), the numerical output is well-described by a suitable genus 2 finite-gap solution of NLS. This solution can be written in terms of different elementary functions in different time regions and, ultimately, it shows an exact recurrence of rogue waves described, at each appearance, by the Akhmediev breather. We discover a remarkable empirical formula connecting the recurrence time with the number of time steps used in the SSFM and, via our recent theoretical findings, we establish that the SSFM opens up a vertical unstable gap whose length can be computed with high accuracy, and is proportional to the inverse of the square of the number of time steps used in the SSFM. This neat picture essentially changes when the round-off error is sufficiently large. Indeed experiments in standard double precision show serious instabilities in both the periods and phases of the recurrence. In contrast with it, as predicted by the theory, replacing the exact Akhmediev Cauchy datum by its first harmonic approximation, we only slightly modify the numerical output. Let us also remark, that the first rogue wave appearance is completely stable in all experiments and is in perfect agreement with the Akhmediev formula and with the theoretical prediction in terms of the Cauchy data.Comment: 27 pages, 8 figures, Formula (30) at page 11 was corrected, arXiv admin note: text overlap with arXiv:1707.0565

Solitary waves in the Nonlinear Dirac Equation

In the present work, we consider the existence, stability, and dynamics of solitary waves in the nonlinear Dirac equation. We start by introducing the Soler model of self-interacting spinors, and discuss its localized waveforms in one, two, and three spatial dimensions and the equations they satisfy. We present the associated explicit solutions in one dimension and numerically obtain their analogues in higher dimensions. The stability is subsequently discussed from a theoretical perspective and then complemented with numerical computations. Finally, the dynamics of the solutions is explored and compared to its non-relativistic analogue, which is the nonlinear Schr{\"o}dinger equation. A few special topics are also explored, including the discrete variant of the nonlinear Dirac equation and its solitary wave properties, as well as the PT-symmetric variant of the model

Numerical modelling of nonlinear extreme waves in the presence of wind

A numerical wave flume with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions is adopted to investigate the temporal characteristics of extreme waves in the presence of wind at various speeds. Incident wave trains are numerically generated by a piston-type wave maker, and the wind-excited pressure is introduced into dynamic boundary conditions using a pressure distribution over steep crests, as defined by Jeffreys’ sheltering mechanism. A boundary value problem is solved by a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) and a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian time marching scheme. The proposed model is validated through comparison with published experimental data from a focused wave group. The influence of wind on extreme wave properties, including maximum extreme wave crest, focal position shift, and spectrum evolution, is also studied. To consider the effects of the wind-driven currents on a wave evolution, the simulations assume a uniform current over varying water depth. The results show that wind causes weak increases in the extreme wave crest, and makes the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide a comparison to demonstrate the shifts at focal points, considering the combined effects of the winds and the wind-driven currents

Granular collapse into water: toward tsunami landslides

International audienc

Dynamics of crescent water wave patterns

The nonlinear dynamics of three-dimensional instabilities of uniform gravity-wave trains evolving to crescent wave patterns is investigated numerically. A new mechanism of generation of oscillating horseshoe patterns is proposed and a detailed discussion on their occurrence in a water wave tank is given. It is suggested that these patterns are more likely to be observed naturally in water of finite depth. A critical wave steepness for the onset of three-dimensional wave breaking due to the nonlinear evolution of quintet resonant interactions corresponding to the phase-locked crescent-shaped structures (class II instability) is provided when the quartet resonant interaction (class I instability) is absent. The nonlinear coupling between quartet resonant interactions (class I instability) and quintet resonant interactions (class II instability) leading to three-dimensional breaking waves, as shown experimentally by Su & Green (1984, 1985), is numerically investigated