Trash - Couture – Can textile recycling of pre - consumer waste be made circular?

Background: The textile and garment industry has exponentially grown, with the production of clothing alone having doubled between 2000 and 2015 (WRAP, 2020), yet, the actual use of these garments and more specifically the wear-time has dramatically declined by approximately 36% (EMF, 2017). The United Kingdom (UK) has seen the highest amount of clothing consumption, compared with its European counterparts, thereby consuming an average of 26.7kg per capita (EAC, 2019). This has various consequences, as not only approximately 57% of garments end up in landfill (Common Objective, 2018), but also “hundreds of thousands of tones of fabric are wasted at the design and production stage before clothing reaches the customer” (ibid). To reiterate this further, it is estimated that as much as 15% of fabric is wasted during the pattern cutting stage, with scraps falling onto the shop floor (ibid). These 15% are only part of one stage of the creation process and does not include fabric swatches used to showcase colour or prototypes, not only of garments that may go into production, but also those that never see the shopfloor (Pre-Loved Podcast, 2021). Although the UK imports a lot of its clothing, we have seen an increase of re-locating factories back to the UK – in 2015 this estimated an increase of 7.6% of companies producing textiles in the UK (Bearne, 2018). This increase is partially driven by superfast fashion companies, such as Boohoo or Misguided, who are headquartered in the UK and seek to produce fashion close by to be able to react quickly to market demands (Bearne, 2018; Hammer, 2020). Here is, where some of the challenges emerge – not only are there supply chain issues and a lack of transparency (Duncan, 2020), but also an increase in production implies an increase in waste, which has environmental consequences. The latter aspect is the focus of this paper. Research Gap: Increased pre-consumer textile waste, which is waste that occurs within the supply chain and thus, prior to consumers being involved, is an issue that is further enhanced with more garments being produced. Seeing as the UK has seen an increase in textile and garment manufacturing in the UK and is also one of the countries with highest per capita consumption, there is a need to explore whether there are opportunities to reduce pre-consumer waste and re-distribute in a more circular manner. A key aspect that emerges is that circular solutions cannot be addressed in isolation, but should perhaps be addressed as a stakeholder approach, as such, it is vital to understand how stakeholders, some of which may be competitors, can work together to develop a more circular economy (e.g. Henninger et al., 2016; Koszewska, 2018; Kazancoglu et al., 2020). This research seeks to address this gap, by exploring how pre-consumer waste could be reduced, thereby focusing on stakeholder engagement to develope a more circular approach to textile recycling. In the USA we have seen the emergence of FABSCRAP, a New York based company that is specialized in re-distributing pre-consumer textile waste, thereby diverting waste materials from landfilling. This research explores whether the idea of FABSCRAP would work in a more localized area and how key stakeholders can address the issue of textile recycling and more generally textile waste. In doing this, we address the following research questions: RQ1: What are the biggest sources of pre-consumer textile waste? RQ2: What are the biggest concerns when it comes to discarding pre-consumer waste? RQ3: What are potential opportunities and drawbacks to developing a more circular approach to ‘waste’ distribution? Methodology: This research uses a qualitative approach to explore the major sources of textile waste and what potential solutions could look like that address a more circular approach to textile recycling. A database of key stakeholder was created to identify key players in the textile (recycling) industry, these include fashion retailers and manufacturers, charities, recyclers, local authorities, co-operatives. This is an on-going research project, which seeks to conduct 25 semi-structured interviews with these key stakeholders, which will be analyzed using a grounded approach as suggested by Easterby-Smith et al. (2015). The approach allows for patterns and themes to emerge organically, whilst at the same time can also be guided by theory. Conclusion: As alluded to, this research project is currently on-going, yet there are various key contributions that are expected. In terms of theoretical contributions, this research seeks to foster the debate surrounding stakeholder engagement. Practically, we will explore the potential to facilitate a more circular approach to pre-consumer waste distribution

Modelling the antecedents of consumers' willingness to pay for eco‐labelled food products

The purpose of this paper is to model the antecedents of consumers' willingness to pay for eco‐labelled food products. This research utilizes the Theory of Planned Behaviour to model the impact of consumers' awareness of eco‐labels, environmental concerns, beliefs in the environmental ability of eco‐labels, and presence of children on their willingness to pay for eco‐labelled food products. This study uses structural equational modelling and PROCESS macros, to test the moderated mediation model on a sample of 333 online responses. Findings suggest the impact of consumers' environmental concerns and eco‐label awareness on their willingness to pay for eco‐labelled food products is partially mediated by consumers' belief in the environmental ability of these eco‐labels. The relationship is further moderated by the presence of children living in the household. This study establishes the value of consumers' beliefs in the environmental ability of eco‐labels and implies that communication strategies need to be carefully refined to provide consumers with more information about eco‐labels and to emphasize the environmental ability of eco‐labels utilized within the food industry as this can have an impact on their willingness to pay for these products, especially for consumers, who have children in the same household

Extending the consumer style inventory to define consumer typologies for secondhand clothing consumption in Poland

Purpose: This paper tests the generalizability and veracity of an extended version of the original consumer styles inventory (CSI) framework for an under examined context, secondhand clothing consumption in Poland. Design/Methodology/Approach: From the extant literature on retail fashion consumption in Poland, the CSI framework is newly extended to include four additional ‘styles’ for secondhand clothing, with four respective hypotheses formulated to test. A total of 509 questionnaires were commissioned by the Brand Experience Research Agency in Poland in July 2016. The target sample comprised a mixed sample almost evenly distributed between female (52.7% - 268 responses) and male (47.3% - 241 responses) participants. A representative sample of consumers geographically, with a majority living in cities across Poland between 50.000 and 500.000 inhabitants, was accessed. Findings: The results confirm that the original CSI framework is partially accepted within the Polish market, with overall results supporting a modified version of the inventory. The reported results highlight that there are some distinct cultural differences when applying the Consumer Styles Inventory in Poland, an overall finding that is synonymous with other international CSI studies. It can be concluded that consumers in emerging markets are to some extent different to those in developed markets, due to a variety of social as well as cultural and economic factors. Practical Implications: For Polish consumers, the purchase of secondhand garments appears to be a reflection, to follow shortcuts to pursue Western European patterns, where clothing is a form of resistance to purchasing newly produced mainstream fashion. Originality/Value: This research newly extends the CSI framework to incorporate additional shopper styles for Polish consumers. Furthermore, this study contributes to the body of research within the CSI remit by adding results for an additional country, which has been examined rarely before.peer-reviewe

Modelling the antecedents of consumers’ willingness to pay for eco-labelled food products

The purpose of this paper is to model the antecedents of consumers’ willingness-to-pay for eco-labelled food products. This research utilises the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB) to model the impact of consumers’ awareness of eco-labels, environmental concerns, beliefs in the environmental ability of eco-labels, and presence of children on their willingness to pay for eco-labelled food products. This study uses Structural Equational Modelling (SEM) and PROCESS macros, to test the moderated mediation model on a sample of 333 online responses. Findings suggest the impact of consumers’ environmental concerns and eco-label awareness on their willingness-to-pay for eco-labelled food products is partially mediated by consumers' belief in the environmental ability of these eco-labels. The relationship is further moderated by the presence of children living in the household. This study establishes the value of consumers’ beliefs in the environmental ability of eco-labels and implies that communication strategies need to be carefully refined to provide consumers with more information about eco-labels and to emphasise the environmental ability of eco-labels utilised within the food industry as this can have an impact on their willingness to pay for these products especially for consumers, who have children in the same household

The Adoption of Digital fashion as an End-product: A Systematic Literature Review of Research Foci and Future Research Agenda

With the advancement of 3D design software, “digital fashion” has evolved from a retail and design tool for physical fashion to a virtual-only end-product sold to consumers in wholly digital form. As many brands are now developing digital fashion end products as a new revenue stream, given its potential to reduce some levels of overconsumption of physical clothing, it warrants academic attention. However, the literature has predominantly defined digital fashion as a tool rather than an end-product, resulting in an incomplete definition of digital fashion. This hinders scholars’ ability to fully comprehend and explore this emerging product category. This article aims to synthesize the current marketing/management literature on digital fashion and investigate the theories, context, characteristics, and methodology of digital fashion as an end-product. This study contributes to the literature by providing a comprehensive industry-accepted definition of digital fashion within a conceptual framework, categorizing six different types of digital fashion end-products, and establishing a future research agenda that will lead to new research streams

Stakeholder engagement in the city branding process

This paper explores perceptions of stakeholder engagement in the city branding process from the perspective of two post-industrial cities: Sheffield, UK and Essen, Germany. This qualitative research utilises a multi case study approach, which allowed for semi-structure interviews and semiotics to be used. Preliminary findings highlight that there are four stakeholder ‘levels’. Each of these stakeholder groupings is involved in the city branding process to some extend. Findings suggest that the degree of involvement strongly depends on the primary stakeholders, who are seen as key decision-makers in the branding process. These primary stakeholders select other stakeholders that ‘can’ be involved in the branding process. Although this may be beneficial it is vital to provide more opportunities and incorporate stakeholders that are willing to participate in the branding process. Alienating stakeholders may also lead to losing parts of an identity that is based on heritage. The focus is on two cities with a highly industrialised background, thus findings may not be applicable to cities without this heritage. The paper looks at both stakeholder engagement and city branding, thereby proposing four layers of stakeholder involvement in the city branding process

Fashion consumption during COVID-19: Comparative analysis of changing acquisition practices across nine countries and implications for sustainability

The COVID-19 pandemic caused and still causes unprecedented disruptions in daily lives of billions of people globally. It affects practices and routines across all household consumption domains, including clothing consumption. Drawing on Social Practice Theory, this article explores and compares changes in clothing acquisition practices during COVID-19 across nine countries: the USA, the UK, Finland, Germany, Switzerland, Iran, Czech Republic, India, and Hong Kong SAR. Data was obtained through a standardized survey containing rated and open-ended questions, which were analyzed through descriptive quantitative analysis and inductive qualitative content analysis of open-ended questions. The results of this cross-country research indicate that all forms of fashion consumption, including more sustainable practices, have decreased during the pandemic. The most visible impacts have occurred in the material arrangements associated with fashion acquisition practices (e.g., closed physical shops, shipping disruptions, cancelled events, remote work, etc.). However, changes that result from these disruptions may be shorter-lived that changes that happened as a result of changing meanings associated with fashion consumption and its more sustainable forms and new competencies and skills acquired during the pandemic that could ensure more lasting practicing of more sustainable forms of fashion consumption

Traceability the new eco-label in the slow-fashion industry? - Consumer perceptions and micro-organisations responses

This article focuses on eco-labels from the point of view of consumers and experts/owner-managers of micro-organisations. The analysis maps the 15 most common standardisations within the UK’s fashion industry and elaborates on their commonalities and differences, before exploring the perceptions held by both consumers and micro-companies. This paper presents preliminary findings of a wider research project with emphasis on the potential for future research and marketing implications. The study is interpretative in nature and provides detailed results that contribute to an understudied area