Chanel or Channel: the motivations behind the purchase of counterfeit luxury fashion goods and the post-purchase satisfaction with the same

JEL Classification System: M10 – Business Administration: General M30 – Marketing and Advertising: GeneralFor every kind of high value product, there will always be counterfeits and if even Rembrandt paintings could not escape of such action 400 hundreds years ago, high end fashion certainly cannot nowadays. There have always been counterfeits in fashion, however, due to the technological evolution and the actual fast pace of fashion, counterfeits are more rife than ever before. Reproducing a genuine fashion product has a great impact for luxury fashion brands. Such impact is not only regarding sales but mainly because of brand equity dilution and reputation. Therefore, there is a serious concern about fighting counterfeiting -there are laws against it and brands have already developed mechanisms to find falsifications of their own goods. However, as long as there is demand, there will be counterfeits and, consequently, it is crucial to understand the motivations behind such purchases to decrease the mentioned demand. Hence, the aim of the present thesis is to understand the motivations behind the purchase of luxury fashion counterfeits and the post-consumption satisfaction with the same. To accomplish such goal, an exploratory qualitative research was applied where consumers, fashion designers and marketing professionals were interviewed to gain new insights regarding the mentioned topic as well as how it differs from the purchase the original good. The achieved results demonstrated that the purchase of counterfeits is both due to extrinsic and intrinsic motivations. Although, the extrinsic motivations are very similar to the ones behind the purchase of the original product, intrinsic motivations differ mainly due to hedonic reasons. The expectations regarding counterfeits are usually low which make them easier to exceed comparing to originals’ expectations.O principio é unanimo- para qualquer item de natureza valiosa, haverá sempre um contrafeito. E se nem os quadros de Rembrandt resistiram a tal ato há 400 anos atrás, a moda de luxo também não sai ilesa atualmente. Aliás, de forma mais assertiva, a realidade é que sempre houve falsificações na moda, contudo, devido ao avanço tecnológico e ao seu atual ritmo, o problema nunca foi tão grave. A reprodução de uma peça genuína apresenta um grande impacto para as marcas de moda de luxo. Tal impacto é não só relativo às vendas mais também, e principalmente, à detioração do capital e da reputação das mesmas. Consequentemente, existe uma grande preocupação no combate à contrafação – não só existem leis contra esta, como também as marcas já criaram mecanismos para localizarem contrafeitos dos seus próprios bens. Contudo, enquanto houver procura, haverá oferta, sendo assim é crucial compreender as motivações de compra de produtos contrafeitos de forma a diminuir a sua procura. Por conseguinte, o objetivo da presente tese é identificar as motivações que levam à compra de produtos contrafeitos tal como a satisfação pós compra. Para alcançar o objetivo mencionado uma pesquisa exploratória e qualitativa foi aplicada. Nesta, consumidores, designers de moda e fashion marketers foram entrevistados com o intuito de compreender o tópico já mencionada e tal como este difere da compra do produto de luxo original. Os resultados obtidos demostram que a compra de contrafeitos é devido a motivações intrínsecas e extrínsecas. Apesar das motivações extrínsecas encontradas serem bastante semelhantes às encontradas na compra do produto original, o mesmo já não se sucede com as motivações intrínsecas. Relativamente às expectativas na compra de um produto contrafeito, estas são usualmente bastante baixas. Consequentemente são mais fáceis de exceder comparando com as expectativas de um produto original

Seismic analysis of a Mexican viaduct with nonlinear modelling of soil-structure interaction

Every day the need to understand earthquakes and how that phenomenon affects construction grows, to make it possible to prevent and minimize inherent risks to their relation. That need increases when projects are located in regions with large seismicity. Therefore, the present paper, which was developed in partnership with GEG - Gabinete de Estruturas e Geotecnia, has, as a final goal, to study and compare the variety of calculation methods available on Eurocode 8 to design and evaluate earthquake resistant structures, using a real case study. The methods approached are linear dynamic analysis, also known as spectral analysis, nonlinear static analysis, also recognized as pushover analysis, and non-linear dynamic analysis, well-known as time-history analysis. Simultaneously to the seismic analyses, it is developed a detailed study of the parameters that affect the damping of soil-structure interaction. Copyright (c) 2019 COMPDYN Proceedings. All rights reserved

Gonad development and hormone titres in Loggerhead Sea Turtles (Caretta caretta) in the NE Atlantic

The study proposed to describe sexual development in pelagic stage loggerhead sea turtles Caretta caretta and compare this to hatchlings and adults. It is meant as an ontogenic approach, in order to understand reproductive development and population composition and their dynamics in the pelagic environment. The study focused on the pelagic loggerheads that are found in the waters offshore Madeira Island (Portugal) in the North-eastern Atlantic and use it as a developmental habitat. The innovating character of this work relied on the lack of any description regarding the gonad ontogenesis and reproductive development for the pelagic stage in any of the 7 existing sea turtle species, all of them in danger of extinction. Three methods were used to diagnose the sex of each juvenile individual and asses the level of reproductive development: (1) laparoscopy, (2) gonad biopsy and (3) the assessment of two sex steroids circulating levels, namely testosterone and estradiol. In order to cover all life stages and compare data obtained for the juvenile stage, hatchlings and nesting female adults were sampled at the nearest nesting rookery at Boa Vista Island in the Cape Verde Archipelago. Gonads from dead hatchlings were collected for gonad histology and blood was collected from nesting females for sex steroids assessment. Laparoscopies revealed to be a valid sexing method for the juvenile stage, since gonads are morphologically differentiated at these size classes. Moreover, laparoscopy was validated using gonad histology. Gonad histology of juveniles showed that gonads are already completely differentiated into ovaries or testes at the size classes examined, but development seems to be quiescent. Males present already developed seminiferous tubules with spermatogonia lining the interior of the seminiferous tubule. Female gonads present oocytes at different development stages, but only oocytes up to stage III were observed. The maximum oocyte diameter in each individual correlated with body size, suggesting that reproductive development is an on-going process in juvenile females. The circulating levels of both testosterone and estradiol in juveniles of both sexes were very low and consistently lower than the ones observed in the nesting females from Boa Vista Island. No bimodal distribution was found for any of the sex steroids analysed and thus circulating hormone levels were not a reliable tool for sexing juvenile individuals with a non-invasive technique. The ratio testosterone:estradiol did not show a bimodal distribution either. The levels of testosterone correlated with sea surface temperature. The fact that temperatures observed during this study were below 24ºC might have hindered a differential testosterone pattern between juvenile males and females. Sex ratios for this population were generated according to laparoscopy results and compared among years and size classes. An overall sex ratio of 2 females for each male was found, but they varied among size classes but not among years. Possible causes for the sex ratios observed are discussed. This study is a contribution to our knowledge on the pelagic stage of loggerhead turtles, namely on the population structure regarding sex ratio, which is a vital tool for implementing conservation strategies.Orientadores: Thomas Dellinger and Adelino Canári

Benefits of multivariate statistical process control based on principal component analysis in solder paste printing process where 100% automatic inspection is already installed

The process of printing and inspecting solder paste deposits in Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) involves a very large number of variables (more than 30000 can be found in 3D inspection of high density PCBs). State of the art Surface Mount Technology (SMT) production lines rely on 100% inspection of all paste deposits for each PCB produced. Specification limits for Area, Height, Volume, Offset X and Offset Y have been defined based on detailed and consolidated studies. PCBs with paste deposits failing the defined criteria, are proposed to be rejected. The study of the variation of the rejected fraction over time, has shown that the process is not always stable and it would benefit from a statistical process control approach. Statistical process control for 30000 variables is not feasible with a univariate approach. On one side, it is not possible to pay attention to such a high number of Shewhart control charts. On the other side, the very rich information contained in the evolution of the correlation structure would be lost in the case of a univariate approach. The use of Multivariate Statistical Process Control based on Principal Component Analysis (PCA-MSPC) provides an efficient solution for this problem. The examples discussed in this paper show that PCA-MSPC in solder paste printing is able to detect and diagnose disturbances in the underlying factors which govern the variation of the process. The early identification of these disturbances can be used to trigger corrective actions before disturbances start to cause defects. The immediate confirmation of effectiveness of the corrective action is a characteristic offered by this method and can be observed in all the examples presented.INCT-EN - Instituto Nacional de Ciência e Tecnologia para Excitotoxicidade e Neuroproteção(UID/CEC/00319/2013). European Structural and Investment Funds in the FEDER component, through the Operational Competitiveness and Internationalization Programme (COMPETE 2020) Project nº 002814; Funding Reference: POCI-01-0247-FEDER-00281

Estudo comparativo do comportamento agronómico de cinco clones de perreira (Pyrus communis L.) cv. Rocha em três porta-enxertos

Mestrado em Engenharia Agronómica - Instituto Superior de AgronomiaWith the aim of evaluating the potential of five ‘Rocha’ pear clones (1, 2, 4c, T and Z), a field trial was conducted at APAS orchard, located in Cadaval (Sobrena). All the clones were grafted onto Provence BA-29, EMA and Sydo rootstocks and trees grown under identical soil and climate conditions. The agronomic characteristics and economic results were evaluated from 2006 until 2011 corresponding to the 5th and 10th year of the orchard. The field trial indicated that there isn’t an ideal combination of clone/rootstock leading to earlier pear production, trees with medium vigour, high fruit size, rounded shape fruits and good fruit quality. Combinations of Z/Sydo, 2/Sydo and T/Sydo reached the highest yields per unit/tree while the most productive was T/Sydo followed by Z/Sydo with a revenue of 42.968,3 €.ha-1 and 38.551,7 €.ha-1, respectively. Among the clones there were slight differences in fruit quality, the clones 4c, 1 and T produced pears with the highest fruit size and roundest shape fruits while the fruits of the clone T had the highest total solid soluble content. The rootstock Sydo achieved better results when comparing to BA-29 and EMA, resulting in earlier production of pears and increased yields, high fruit size and better shaped fruits

Blood biochemistry reference values for wild juvenile loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) from Madeira archipelago

Standard biochemical parameters were determined in wild juvenile loggerhead sea turtles Caretta caretta living offshore Madeira Island, northeast Atlantic. We analyzed the influence of age, sex, sea surface temperature, and body condition index on biochemical parameters including uric acid, total bilirubin, total cholesterol, creatinine kinase (CK), glucose, total protein, urea nitrogen, lactate dehydrogenase, aspartate aminotranspherase (AST), gamma-glutamyl transferase (GGT), albumin, alkaline phosphatase (ALP), sodium (NA), potassium (K), chloride, calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium. Significant positive correlations were found between turtle body size and total cholesterol, total protein, and albumin. Total protein and the enzymes AST and CK were lower than reported levels in adults. Calcium levels were lower than those reported in adult or captive turtles, but similar to wild juveniles from Australian waters, and were interpreted as normal for this age category. These data may be useful to evaluate the health status of stranded or injured animals and to improve veterinary care at rehabilitation centers.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Influência dos produtos tecnológicos no mobiliário doméstico

Tese de mestrado, Design de equipamento, Especialidade de design urbano e de interiores, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Belas Artes, 2012Technological advances on the production processes of artifacts and materials and developments in electronics occur simultaneously with human evolution, social and cultural development, stimulating new needs, behaviors and lifestyles. The form, organization and use of domestic space are influenced by several social, cultural and technological factors, particularly the inclusion in housing of information, communication and support of household chores technologies, in the form of technological products. The use of these products, which save space, time, economic resources, enable great home mobility and flexibility and which motivate new media, communication and knowledge, interfering positively on comfort and human welfare, is persistent and incessant, particularly in urban areas. The present study explores the stages of emergence, development and introduction of technological products in the domestic space, in order to examine its influence on the organization and maintenance of home and household furniture and the consequences from its interaction with inhabitants, in their daily lives. Data from a questionnaire administered to a sample of 104 residents living in urban and suburban areas has been analyzed. This way, it was established that technology and technological products contribute to a flexibility of domestic space and "virtual" or "digital" mobility of individuals. Therefore, the furniture can be reconfigured, its use become unnecessary or be developed and produced new types of furnitur

Helminth component community of the loggerhead sea Turtle,Caretta caretta from Madeira Archipelago, Portugal

The helminth fauna of pelagic-stage loggerhead sea turtles, Caretta caretta, is still poorly known. Here, we describe the helminth-component community of healthy, free-ranging juvenile loggerhead sea turtles captured in the waters around Madeira Island, Portugal. Fifty-seven were used in this study. The esophagus, stomach, intestine, liver, gallbladder, spleen, kidneys, trachea, bronchi, urinary bladder, heart, left and right aortas, and coelomic cavity were macroscopically inspected; organs and tissues were removed and washed through a sieve. A search for parasites was made using a stereoscopic microscope; recovered parasites were fixed and stored in 70% alcohol until staining and identification. Prevalence, mean intensity, and mean abundance values were recorded. In total, 156 parasite specimens belonging to 9 species were found: nematodes included Anisakis simplex s.l. (larvae) and an unidentified species; digenetic trematodes present were Enodiotrema megachondrus, Rhytidodes gelatinosus, Pyelosomum renicapite, and Calycodes anthos; acanthocephalans included Bolbosoma vasculosum and Rhadinorhynchus pristis; a single cestode, Nybelinia sp., was present. Parasite infections were found to have both low prevalences and intensities. Possible reasons for this include the oligotrophic conditions of the pelagic habitat around Madeira; a 'dilution effect' because of the vastness of the area; and the small size, and thus ingestion rate, of the turtles. Results are discussed in terms of the various turtle populations that may use the waters surrounding Madeira. This work provides valuable information on the parasite fauna of a poorly known stage in the life of loggerhead sea turtles, thereby filling a fundamental gap with regard to features of the parasite fauna in this species.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Perceptions of Speech and Language Therapy students about motivations, current practices, challenges and the future of the profession.

Trabalho apresentado em 11th European Speech and Language Therapy Congress - 2022 ESLA Congress, 26-28 Maio 2022, Salzburg, Austria.N/