On the Shoaling of Solitary Waves in the Presence of Short Random Waves

Overhead video from a small number of laboratory tests conducted by Kaihatu et al. at the Tsunami Wave Basin at Oregon State University shows that the breaking point of a shoaling solitary wave shifts to deeper water if random waves are present. The analysis of the laboratory data collected confirms that solitary waves indeed tend to break earlier in the presence of random wave field, and suggests that the effect is the result of the radiation stresses gradient induced by the random wave fields. A theoretical approach based on the forced KdV equation is shown to successfully predict the shoaling process of the solitary wave. An ensemble of tests simulated using a state-of-the-art nonhydrostatic model is used to test the statistical significance of the process. The results of this study point to a potentially significant oceanographic process that has so far been ignored and suggest that systematic research into the interaction between tsunami waves and the swell background could increase the accuracy of tsunami forecasting. © 2015 American Meteorological Society

Wave Turbulence and Energy Cascade in the Hippocampus

Mesoscale cortical activity can be defined as the organization of activity of large neuron populations into collective action, forming time-dependent patterns such as traveling waves. Although collective action may play an important role in the cross-scale integration of brain activity and in the emergence of cognitive behavior, a comprehensive formulation of the laws governing its dynamics is still lacking. Because collective action processes are macroscopic with respect to neuronal activity, these processes cannot be described directly with methods and models developed for the microscale (individual neurons).To identify the characteristic features of mesoscopic dynamics, and to lay the foundations for a theoretical description of mesoscopic activity in the hippocampus, we conduct a comprehensive examination of observational data of hippocampal local field potential (LFP) recordings. We use the strong correlation between rat running-speed and the LFP power to parameterize the energy input into the hippocampus, and show that both the power and non-linearity of collective action (e.g., theta and gamma rhythms) increase with increased speed. Our results show that collective-action dynamics are stochastic (the precise state of a single neuron is irrelevant), weakly non-linear, and weakly dissipative. These are the principles of the theory of weak turbulence. Therefore, we propose weak turbulence a theoretical framework for the description of mesoscopic activity in the hippocampus. The weak turbulence framework provides a complete description of the cross-scale energy exchange (the energy cascade). It uncovers the mechanism governing major features of LFP spectra and bispectra, such as the physical meaning of the exponent α of power-law LFP spectra (e.g., f−α, where f is the frequency), the strengthening of theta-gamma coupling with energy input into the hippocampus, as well as specific phase lags associated with their interaction. Remarkably, the weak turbulence framework is consistent with the theory of self organized criticality, which provides a simple explanation for the existence of the power-law background spectrum. Together with self-organized criticality, weak turbulence could provide a unifying approach to modeling the dynamics of mesoscopic activity

Boat-wake statistics at Jensen Beach, Florida

Ship/boat wakes are identified in pressure and flow velocity records as chirp signals, which are also known as sweep signals in sonar and radar applications. A chirp is a signal in which the frequency increases or decreases with time. Wakes are analyzed using time-frequency techniques [windowed Fourier transform (WFT), wavelet transform (WT), and instantaneous frequency]. This approach allows for detecting boat wakes and studying their statistics, even in the presence of a relatively strong broad-banded wind-wave background. Time-frequency methods also open a new direction for the statistical description of wakes, which are applicable to the characterization of the wake climate (e.g., for sites with intense boat traffic). The usefulness of the time-frequency analysis on observations collected in 2010 at Jensen Beach, Florida will be demonstrated. (C) 2013 American Society of Civil Engineers

Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France

On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves are a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island

Wave-Current Interactions and Infragravity Wave Propagation at a Microtidal Inlet

Recent studies have shown that wave blocking occurs at river mouths with strong currents typically preventing relatively short period sea and swell waves from propagating up the river. However, observations demonstrate that lower frequency waves, so-called infragravity waves, do pass through and propagate up the river, particularly during storm events. We present observations from the Misa River estuary of infragravity wave propagation up the river during storm conditions. A model of the complex nonlinear interactions that drive infragravity waves is presented. The results are discussed in the context of an observed river mouth bar formed in the lower reach of the Misa River

Comparison between the wintertime and summertime dynamics of the Misa River estuary

The Misa River on the Italian Adriatic coast is typical of the rivers that drain the Apennine Mountain range. The focus of this study, conducted in the late summer of 2013 and mid-winter of 2014, was to contrast the general wintertime-summertime dynamics in the Misa River estuarine system rather than investigate specific dynamical features (e.g. offshore sediment transport, channel seiche, and flocculation mechanisms). Summertime conditions of the Misa River estuary are characterized by low freshwater discharge and net sediment deposition whereas, in the wintertime, the Misa River and estuary is characterized by high episodic freshwater discharge and net erosion and sediment export. Major observed differences between wintertime-summertime dynamics in the Misa River and estuary are a result of seasonal-scale differences in regional precipitation and forcing conditions driven largely by the duration and intensity of prevailing wind patterns that frequently change direction in summertime while keep almost constant directions for much longer periods in wintertime, thus generating major sea storms. Sediment deposition was observed in the final reach of the Misa River and estuary in the summertime. However, in the wintertime, large flood events led to sediment erosion and export in the final reach of the Misa River and estuary that, in conjunction with storm-wave-induced mud transport, led to sediment deposition at the river entrance and in the adjacent nearshore region. The seasonal cyclic pattern of erosion and deposition was confirmed with bathymetric surveys of the final reach of the estuarine region. A critical component for the balance between summertime deposition and wintertime erosion was the presence of an underlying mat of organic deposits that limited the availability of sediments for erosion in winter, when massive debris transport occurs. Further, suspended cohesive sediments flocs were subjected to smaller hydrodynamic stresses in the summertime favoring deposition within the estuary. Conversely, during wintertime storms, flocs were subjected to larger hydrodynamic stresses favoring breakup into smaller flocs and deposition outside the estuary