Subsurface processes generated by bore-driven swash on coarse-grained beaches

Peer reviewedPublisher PD

Sediment transport dynamics in the swash zone under large-scale laboratory conditions

A laboratory experiment was carried out to study sediment transport dynamics occurring in the swash zone of a coarse-sandy beach built in a large-scale wave flume. Hydro- and morpho-dynamic as well as sediment transport data were collected using sensors mounted on a scaffold rig deployed in the lower swash zone close to the moving bed. The high resolution of near-bed data permitted quantitative evaluation of suspended and sheet flow contributions to the total sediment transport. Although sheet flow sediment fluxes were higher than suspended fluxes, the vertically integrated suspended sediment load overcame the sheet flow load during uprush and it was on the same order of magnitude during backwash. The observed cumulative sediment transport was generally larger than the morphological changes occurring shoreward of the rig location implying either an underestimation of the offshore sediment transport or an overestimation of the onshore fluxes obtained from concentration and velocity profile data. Low correlations were found between net swash profile changes and runup parameters suggesting that local hydrodynamic parameters provide little or no predictability of accretion and erosion of an upper beach which is near equilibrium. The balance between erosion and deposition induced by individual swash events brought a dynamic equilibrium with small differences between the profiles measured at the start and at the end of the run

Self-esteem in Early Adolescence as Predictor of Depressive Symptoms in Late Adolescence and Early Adulthood:The Mediating Role of Motivational and Social Factors

Ample research has shown that low self-esteem increases the risk to develop depressive symptoms during adolescence. However, the mechanism underlying this association remains largely unknown, as well as how long adolescents with low self-esteem remain vulnerable to developing depressive symptoms. Insight into this mechanism may not only result in a better theoretical understanding but also provide directions for possible interventions. To address these gaps in knowledge, we investigated whether self-esteem in early adolescence predicted depressive symptoms in late adolescence and early adulthood. Moreover, we investigated a cascading mediational model, in which we focused on factors that are inherently related to self-esteem and the adolescent developmental period: approach and avoidance motivation and the social factors social contact, social problems, and social support. We used data from four waves of the TRAILS study (N = 2228, 51% girls): early adolescence (mean age 11 years), middle adolescence (mean age 14 years), late adolescence (mean age 16 years), and early adulthood (mean age 22 years). Path-analyses showed that low self-esteem is an enduring vulnerability for developing depressive symptoms. Self-esteem in early adolescence predicted depressive symptoms in late adolescence as well as early adulthood. This association was independently mediated by avoidance motivation and social problems, but not by approach motivation. The effect sizes were relatively small, indicating that having low self-esteem is a vulnerability factor, but does not necessarily predispose adolescents to developing depressive symptoms on their way to adulthood. Our study contributes to the understanding of the mechanisms underlying the association between self-esteem and depressive symptoms, and has identified avoidance motivation and social problems as possible targets for intervention

Role of atmospheric indices in describing shoreline variability along the Atlantic coast of Europe

The data set consists of time series atmospheric indicates, wave conditions and beach morphology for three sites on the Atlantic coast of EuropeThe project investigate the connections between atmospheric indicates, wave conditions and beach change over a 15-20 year period for three beach on the Atlantic coast of Europ

Formas cuspidales de playas y procesos de la zona de rompientes interna: ¿crecimiento o destrucción? Aplicación a la playa de Trafalgar (Cádiz, España)

Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) than traditional cusps. This extent has been explained by a shift of the swash zone during falling tide. The cusps immerse at rising tide and previous studies indicate that surf zone processes are exclusively destructive. Here, the behaviour of large beach cusps in the inner surf zone is investigated by using a 2DH morphological numerical model applied to Trafalgar Beach (Cádiz, Spain). The model results indicate that the inner surf zone processes do not always destroy the cusps but can in fact reinforce them by considering neither the swash processes nor the tidal changes. More generally, in conditions favouring the presence of the LBC the surf zone of a beach can be unstable, leading to the formation of transverse/oblique sand bars that can have characteristics similar to the LBC. Thus, in principle, the LBC could emerge not only due to swash zone morphodynamics but also due to surf zone morphodynamics or a combination of both.Las formas cuspidales de grandes dimensiones (LBC, longitudes de onda ~30 m) constituyen un sistema morfológico rítmico a lo largo de la playa que tiene una parte que se encuentra alternativamente en la zona de swash (flujo/reflujo) y en la zona de rompientes interna debido a los cambios del nivel del mar. Tienen una distancia de penetración de hasta 50 m, superior por tanto a la de las cúspides ordinarias. Esta elongación parece debido a la traslación de la zona de swash durante la marea descendente. En marea ascendente estas estructuras están sumergidas y los estudios previos consideran que los procesos de la zona de rompientes las destruyen. En este trabajo se analiza el comportamiento de estas formas en la zona de rompientes de la playa de Trafalgar (Cádiz) usando un modelo numérico morfológico 2DH. Los resultados muestran que, sin considerar ni los procesos de swash ni el cambio de marea, los procesos de la zona de rompientes no necesariamente destruyen LBC, sino que pueden reforzarlas. De forma más general, en condiciones favorables a la presencia de LBC, se pueden formar barras de arena con características similares a LBC debido a procesos de auto-organización en la zona de rompientes.The work of R. Garnier was supported by the University of Nottingham and is part of the Spanish Government project under contract CTM2006-08875. The Spanish Ministry of Science and Education (Project BORRASCAS CTM2005-06583) and the Junta de Andalucía (Projects P05-RNM-968 and P06-RNM-1573) funded part of this research

The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: Beach recovery along the southwest coast of England

publisher: Elsevier articletitle: The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: Beach recovery along the southwest coast of England journaltitle: Marine Geology articlelink: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.10.011 content_type: article copyright: © 2016 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V

Role of Atmospheric Indices in Describing Shoreline Variability Along the Atlantic Coast of Europe

Beaches are highly variable environments and respond to changes in wave forcing, themselves modulated by climate variability. Here, we analyze three high‐quality beach profile data sets to robustly investigate, for the first time, the link between shoreline change, wave forcing and climate variability along the Atlantic coast of Europe. Winter wave conditions are strongly associated with North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), with WEPA explaining 50%–80% of the winter wave power variability. Shoreline variability during winter is also strongly linked to NAO and WEPA, with WEPA explaining 25% of the winter shoreline variability. Winter wave conditions and associated shoreline variability are both unrelated to El Nino Southern Oscillation. In addition to the atmospherically‐forced beach morphological response, shoreline change also depends strongly on the antecedent morphology as evidenced by significant correlations between summer/winter shoreline response and the shoreline position at the start of each season