Fit for purpose? Pattern cutting and seams in wearables development

This paper describes how a group of practitioners and researchers are working across disciplines at Nottingham Trent University in the area of Technical Textiles. It introduces strands of ongoing enquiry centred around the development and application of stretch sensors on the body, focusing on how textile and fashion knowledge are being reflexively revealed in the collaborative development of seamful wearable concepts, and on the tensions between design philosophies as revealed by definitions of purpose. We discuss the current research direction of the Aeolia project, which seeks to exploit the literal gaps found in pattern cutting for fitted stretch garments towards experiential forms and potential interactions. Normative goals of fitness for purpose and seamlessness are interrogated and the potential for more integrated design processes, which may at first appear ‘upside down’, is discussed

The (New) roles of prototypes during the co-development of digital product service systems

This paper investigates different roles that prototypes play during the development of digital Product Service Systems (PSSs). A literature review reveals that prototyping supports designers during the design process, as well as during knowledge sharing processes with stakeholders. To create a better understanding of these two co-existing roles of prototyping, we executed a research-through-design project in the healthcare domain. This design project was centred around the development of four different prototypes that the designer sequentially developed. A major input into the design process was co-reflection sessions between the designer and different stakeholders. We analysed the prototyping process and the co-reflection sessions. Moreover, we executed a conversational analysis to understand the actual knowledge sharing processes between the designer and the different stakeholders. The results present a detailed overview of the different (co-existing) roles of the prototypes. We distinguished two new types of prototypes which were both related to the development of the intangible aspects of the digital PSS: (1) service interface prototrial aimed at exploring several options for detailing the different intangible aspects of the digital PSS, and (2) service provotype to stimulate collaborative creation of the intangible aspects of the digital PSS in an early stage

Collaborative registers of interactive art.

The ubiquity of interactive technologies has given rise to new forms and opportunities for interactive digital art. Collaboration has been identified as a way for artists to engage in complex technologically based projects. This paper considers different forms of collaboration in relation to two interactive art projects. Collaborative and participatory art practices operate on multiple registers. The findings of the research discussed in this paper corroborate previous work on co-creativity and interactive art and extend to considerations of institutional collaboration, materiality, prototyping and the advantages of creative collectives

Aeolia: textile enquiry and design

In this essay we introduce ongoing research in the field of technical textiles at Nottingham Trent University involving specialists from a range of disciplines. We will reflect on the roles and experiences of people as they worked within and across their usual boundaries of practice. In particular, the key aspects of risk, unfamiliarity, and criteria for success will be discussed. The project emerged from a strategic investment by the University in a number of interdisciplinary fellowships, in this case across Product Design and Textiles. A commercially available but under researched fibre had been identified as a starting point with the potential for contribution to the field. This carbonised rubber cord, 2mm in diameter, changes its electrical properties when stretched, meaning it may be used in conjunction with a circuit to drive outputs such as light, sound or movement

The 3rd International Conference on the Challenges, Opportunities, Innovations and Applications in Electronic Textiles

This reprint is a collection of papers from the E-Textiles 2021 Conference and represents the state-of-the-art from both academia and industry in the development of smart fabrics that incorporate electronic and sensing functionality. The reprint presents a wide range of applications of the technology including wearable textile devices for healthcare applications such as respiratory monitoring and functional electrical stimulation. Manufacturing approaches include printed smart materials, knitted e-textiles and flexible electronic circuit assembly within fabrics and garments. E-textile sustainability, a key future requirement for the technology, is also considered. Supplying power is a constant challenge for all wireless wearable technologies and the collection includes papers on triboelectric energy harvesting and textile-based water-activated batteries. Finally, the application of textiles antennas in both sensing and 5G wireless communications is demonstrated, where different antenna designs and their response to stimuli are presented

Re-addressing the role of knitted textile design knowledge: auxetic textiles from a practice-led, designer-maker perspective

This study reacts to the segregation of knowledge and practice surrounding weft-knitted textiles, their design and applications. This study challenges current disciplinary practices that divide knit into scientific, design and art areas by describing a designer-maker methodology, which is used to produce auxetic, weft-knitted textiles. By using a designer-maker’s practice-led perspective to create functional fabrics, it seeks to challenge the perception that technical and functional research in textiles is or should be the domain of scientific methodologies and engineering practice. This study does not apply external methodologies to the research design, but extracts its methods and values from an existing knit design practice, built from experiential knowledge, that becomes the basis for the methodology. Qualitative and quantitative measures of success are both vital to the methodology used in this study and both subjective and objective perspectives are embraced. The practical work uses designer-maker practice to lead the development of 30 auxetic fabric samples. These fabrics are appraised using a variety of methods including personal reflection, numerical measurement and feedback from focus groups of other practitioners

Singing Knit: Soft Knit Biosensing for Augmenting Vocal Performances

This paper discusses the design of the Singing Knit, a wearable knit collar for measuring a singer's vocal interactions through surface electromyography. We improve the ease and comfort of multi-electrode bio-sensing systems by adapting knit e-textile methods. The goal of the design was to preserve the capabilities of rigid electrode sensing while addressing its shortcomings, focusing on comfort and reliability during extended wear, practicality and convenience for performance settings, and aesthetic value. We use conductive, silver-plated nylon jersey fabric electrodes in a full rib knit accessory for sensing laryngeal muscular activation. We discuss the iterative design and the material decision-making process as a method for building integrated soft-sensing wearable systems for similar settings. Additionally, we discuss how the design choices through the construction process reflect its use in a musical performance context