Preparation of keratin hydrolysate from chicken feathers and its application in cosmetics

Keratin hydrolysates (KHs) are established standard components in hair cosmetics. Understanding the moisturizing effects of KH is advantageous for skin-care cosmetics. The goals of the protocol are: (1) to process chicken feathers into KH by alkaline-enzymatic hydrolysis and purify it by dialysis, and (2) to test if adding KH into an ointment base (OB) increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function by diminishing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). During alkaline-enzymatic hydrolysis feathers are first incubated at a higher temperature in an alkaline environment and then, under mild conditions, hydrolyzed with proteolytic enzyme. The solution of KH is dialyzed, vacuum dried, and milled to a fine powder. Cosmetic formulations comprising from oil in water emulsion (O/W) containing 2, 4, and 6 weight% of KH (based on the weight of the OB) are prepared. Testing the moisturizing properties of KH is carried out on 10 men and 10 women at time intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Tested formulations are spread at degreased volar forearm sites. The skin hydration of stratum corneum (SC) is assessed by measuring capacitance of the skin, which is one of the most world-wide used and simple methods. TEWL is based on measuring the quantity of water transported per a defined area and period of time from the skin. Both methods are fully non-invasive. KH makes for an excellent occlusive; depending on the addition of KH into OB, it brings about a 30% reduction in TEWL after application. KH also functions as a humectant, as it binds water from the lower layers of the epidermis to the SC; at the optimum KH addition in the OB, up to 19% rise in hydration in men and 22% rise in women occurs. © 2017 Journal of Visualized Experiments

Hydration and barrier potential of cosmetic matrices with bee products

Honey, honey extracts, and bee products belong to traditionally used bioactive molecules in many areas. The aim of the study was primarily to evaluate the effect of cosmetic matrices containing honey and bee products on the skin. The study is complemented by a questionnaire survey on the knowledge and awareness of the effects and potential uses of bee products. The effect of bee molecules at various concentrations was observed by applying 12 formulations to the skin of the volar side of the forearm by non-invasive bioengineering methods on a set of 24 volunteers for 48 h. Very good moisturizing properties have been found in matrices with the glycerin extract of honey. Matrices containing forest honey had better moisturizing effects than those containing flower honey. Barrier properties were enhanced by gradual absorption, especially in formulations with both glycerin and aqueous honey extract. The observed organoleptic properties of the matrices assessed by sensory analysis through 12 evaluators did not show statistically significant differences except for color and spreadability. There are differences in the ability to hydrate the skin, reduce the loss of epidermal water, and affect the pH of the skin surface, including the organoleptic properties between honey and bee product matrices according to their type and concentration.Internal strategic project of Tomas Bata University in Zli

Caseinate-stabilized emulsions of black cumin and tamanu oils: preparation, characterization and antibacterial activity

Caseinate-stabilized emulsions of black cumin (Nigella sativa) and tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) oils were studied in terms of preparation, characterization, and antibacterial properties. The oils were described while using their basic characteristics, including fatty acid composition and scavenging activity. The oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions containing the studied oils were formulated, and the influence of protein stabilizer (sodium caseinate (CAS), 1-12 wt %), oil contents (5-30 wt %), and emulsification methods (high-shear homogenization vs. sonication) on the emulsion properties were investigated. It was observed that, under both preparation methods, emulsions of small, initial droplet sizes were predominantly formed with CAS content that was higher than 7.5 wt %. Sonication was a more efficient emulsification procedure and was afforded emulsions with smaller droplet size throughout the entire used concentration ranges of oils and CAS when compared to high-shear homogenization. At native pH of similar to 6.5, all of the emulsions exhibited negative zeta potential that originated from the presence of caseinate. The antibacterial activities of both oils and their emulsions were investigated with respect to the growth suppression of common spoilage bacteria while using the disk diffusion method. The oils and selected emulsions were proven to act against gram positive strains, mainly against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Bacillus cereus (B. cereus); regrettably, the gram negative species were fully resistant against their action.Czech Science FoundationGrant Agency of the Czech Republic [19-16861S]; Ministry of Education, Youth and Sports of the Czech Republic - Program NPU I [LO1504]; TBU in Zlin [IGA/CPS/2019/004

Stability and in vivo efficiency of natural cosmetic emulsion systems with the addition of vegetable oils

The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: Limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis sativa, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (corneometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 °C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 °C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin

Stability and in vivo efficiency of natural cosmetic emulsion systems with the addition of vegetable oils

The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis saliva, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (comeometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 degrees C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 degrees C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin

Effect of Oregano and Marjoram Essential Oils on the Physical and Antimicrobial Properties of Chitosan Based Systems

The effect of two essential oils (EOs), from Origanum vulgare and Origanum majorana, their structural properties, and concentration on physical and antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan based solutions as well as films was investigated. Results showed that significantly different behaviour was induced by variation in the compositions of given essential oils. Film-forming solutions (FFS) containing oregano oil comprised considerably greater particles in comparison with the marjoram samples. Similarly, structural changes were confirmed by SEM analysis of chitosan films modified with the EOs; the smaller particles of the marjoram oil demonstrated better compatibility with chitosan matrix. However, chitosan films enriched with the oregano oil showed significantly superior antimicrobial activity compared to the marjoram. The dissimilar effects of the two EOs were also observed by water vapour pressure (WVP) measurement; increasing the amount of oregano oil triggered a drop in the WVP of the prepared films, whereas the marjoram oil had a negligible impact in this respect. These results suggest that the structural features of active substances in the EOs play a crucial role in determining the final properties of FFS and biofilm systems. © 2017 Jana Sedlaříková et al

Chitosan/thyme oil systems as affected by stabilizing agent: Physical and antimicrobial properties

Antimicrobial biopolymer films and coatings are of great interest for many applications. Different chitosan systems were prepared and characterized to evaluate the effect of their composition on the physical and antimicrobial properties. Three types of emulsifiers (Tween 20, 80, and 85) were used as stabilizing agents, combined with thyme essential oil (from two producers) applied as an active substance. A predominant role of the applied stabilizer and its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value was proven. The incorporation of thyme essential oil and surfactant into the chitosan matrix led to a significant decrease of particle size in film-forming solutions, as well as a thickness increase and the enhancement of the barrier properties in chitosan films. Antimicrobial effects were provided even at the lowest tested concentration of thyme essential oil. Hence, the prepared chitosan films represent promising candidates in antimicrobial packaging applications. © 2019 by the authors

Non-alcohol hand sanitiser gels with mandelic acid and essential oils

Antimicrobial hand gels have become extremely popular in recent years due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Frequent use of hand sanitising gel can lead to dryness and irritation of the skin. This work focuses on the preparation of antimicrobial acrylic acid (Carbomer)-based gels enhanced by non-traditional compounds-mandelic acid and essential oils-as a substitute for irritating ethanol. Physicochemical properties (pH and viscosity), stability and sensory attributes of the prepared gels were investigated. Antimicrobial activity against representative Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and yeasts was determined. The prepared gels with mandelic acid and essential oil (cinnamon, clove, lemon, and thyme) proved to have antimicrobial activity and even better organoleptic properties than commercial ethanol-based antimicrobial gel. Further, results confirmed that the addition of mandelic acid had a desirable effect on gel properties (antimicrobial, consistency, stability). It has been shown that the essential oil/mandelic acid combination can be a dermatologically beneficial hand sanitiser compared to commercial products. Thus, the produced gels can be used as a natural alternative to alcohol-based daily hand hygiene sanitisers

Verification of toe allowance of children's footwear and its categorisation

This study verifies the declared sizes of children's footwear, categorising it according to gender and age, the cut of the upper, the assembling method, the material of the upper, the lining material, the fastening, the heights of the upper and the heights of the heel. The study looked into the allocation given to toe allowance, which represents growing room for a child's foot, while ensuring the shoes remain comfortable. Research was conducted on 115 pairs of children's footwear, at the French sizes of 22, 25 and 30. It was found that in all examples at size 22, the recommended design specifications for toe allowance were most consistently observed, while for size 25 this applied in 91% of cases, but an alarming percentage – 54% of pairs – was discerned for size 30. This provision for growth exists to prevent possible damage to the soft tissues of children's feet and also to prevent forefoot deformities from occurring. Maintaining the specifications for toe allowance also contributes to easier customer guidance when selecting the optimum shoe size. © 2015 Taylor & Francis

The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate

Background: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. Objectives: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. Methods: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. Results: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. Conclusions: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.IGA of Tomas Bata University in Zlin [IGA/FT/2017/007