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The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate
Authors
Lubomír Beníček
Pavlína Egner
+3 more
Matouš Huťťa
Pavel Mokrejš
Jana Pavlačková
Publication date
6 February 2017
Publisher
'Wiley'
Doi
Abstract
Background: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. Objectives: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. Methods: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. Results: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. Conclusions: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.IGA of Tomas Bata University in Zlin [IGA/FT/2017/007
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oai:publikace.k.utb.cz:10563/1...
Last time updated on 10/04/2018
Crossref
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info:doi/10.1111%2Fjocd.12319
Last time updated on 21/04/2021