Characterisation of polyphenols by HPLC-PAD-ESI/MS and antioxidant activity in Equisetum telmateia

The antioxidant activity of an aqueous extract (infusion) and respective ethyl acetate fraction of Equisetum telmateia Ehrh. (Equisetaceae), a plant used in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and diuretic properties, has been evaluated by DPPH, TEAC and TBARS assays. A high and significant antioxidant activity was detected in the ethyl acetate fraction. Analysis of the aqueous extract and the ethyl acetate fraction by HPLC-PAD-ESI/MS allowed the identification of the major phenolic compounds as flavan-3-ol, kaempferol and phenolic acid derivatives. Among the flavan-3-ols, A-type proanthocyanidins and afzelechin derivatives were detected as well as the more common B-type procyanidins, B2 and C1, whose identification was further confirmed by HPLC using detection involving chemical reaction with p-dimethylamino-cinnamaldehyde. The results suggest that the anti-inflammatory activity of E. telmateia could be due, at least in part, to the presence of compounds with antioxidant activity. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd

The potential of Ganoderma lucidum extracts as bioactive ingredients in topical formulations, beyond its nutritional benefits

Ganoderma lucidum was characterized in terms of nutritional value and chemical composition. Thereafter, ethanolic Soxhlet extracts were evaluated for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antityrosinase, antimicrobial and cytotoxic effects, and further characterized in terms of phenolic acids, polysaccharides and triterpenoids. Finally, the obtained extracts were tested as cosmeceutical ingredients. G. lucidum proved to be a source of macronutrients and important bioactive compounds such as terpenoids, specially triterpenoids, and polysaccharides. In the extracts, ganoderic acids C2, A and H were the most abundant triterpenic acids and protocatechuic, p-hydroxibenzoic and syringic acids the identified phenolics. The developed cosmeceutical formulation preserved the extract bioactivities, presented a light-yellow colour and a pH of 4.6, which is considered appropriate for cosmeceutical's design. Behind the important nutritional/bioactive composition of G. lucidum, a potential towards its valorisation in the field of cosmeceuticals is foreseeable, as deduced from the bioactivities of its ethanolic extract and preservation in the tested formulation.The authors are grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology and FEDER for CIMO (UID/AGR/00690/2013) and to POCI-01-0145-FEDER-006984 (LA LSRE-LCM) funded by ERDF through POCI-COMPETE2020 and FCT. To NORTE-01-0145-FEDER-000006, funded by NORTE 2020, under PT2020 through FERDF. Also for financial support to S.A.H. (SFRH/BPD/101413/2014) grant and L.B and R.M.C. contracts. A.M.G.-P. is also thankful to the Spanish MINECO/FEDER for financial support through the project AGL2015-64522-C2-2-R.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Development of mushroom-based cosmeceutical formulations with anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties

The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, and Lentinula edodes was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%-100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural cosmeceutical ingredients.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Mushroom-based cosmeceutical ingredients: Microencapsulation and in vitro release profile

Mushrooms can be used as a source of cosmeceutical ingredients. Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus ethanolic extracts present important bioactive properties, but withsome compounds showingeasy oxidation and degradation. In the present work, microencapsulation by atomization/coagulation technique was used toprotect the extracts. The obtained microspheres were characterised in terms of morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency. Microencapsulated extracts were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance compared with the use of the free forms in terms of bioactivity, and in vitro release using the cosmetic matrix and real time conditions (up to 6 months). The physico-chemical properties (colour and pH) of the developed formulations were also monitored over the same time period. The cosmeceutical formulations containing free extracts displayed bioactivity. For the formulations prepared with the encapsulated forms, the release of the extracts was achieved and anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities were observed, while for the antioxidant activity, the extract release over the time was not sufficient to exert an effect. Overall, the use of mushroom extracts in free or encapsulated forms can be an option in cosmeceutical formulations, and the encapsulated forms can allow a controlled release leading to bioactivity control.The authors are grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal) and FEDER under Programme PT2020 for financial support to CIMO (UID/AGR/00690/2013) and S.A. Heleno (SFRH/BPD/101413/2014). This work was also financially supported by Project POCI-01-0145-FEDER-006984 – Associate Laboratory LSRE-LCM funded by FEDER through COMPETE2020 - Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI) – and by national funds through FCT and project NORTE-01-0145-FEDER-000006, supported by Norte Portugal Regional Operational Programme (NORTE 2020), under the Portugal 2020 Partnership Agreement, through the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF). The authors are grateful to FEDER-Interreg España-Portugal programme for financial support through the project 0377_Iberphenol_6_E. This work was also funded by the European Structural and Investment Funds (FEEI) through the Regional Operational Program North 2020, within the scope of Mobilizing Project ValorNatural®. This work is funded by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), through the Rural Development Program (PDR2020), within the scope of Project MicoCoating (PDR2020-101-031472).info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Mushroom-based cosmeceutical ingredients: Microencapsulation and in vitro release profile

[EN]Mushrooms can be used as a source of cosmeceutical ingredients. Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus ethanolic extracts present important bioactive properties, but with some compounds showing easy oxidation and degradation. In the present work, microencapsulation by atomization/coagulation technique was used to protect the extracts. The obtained microspheres were characterised in terms of morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency. Microencapsulated extracts were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance compared with the use of the free forms in terms of bioactivity, and in vitro release using the cosmetic matrix and real time conditions (up to 6 months). The physico-chemical properties (colour and pH) of the developed formulations were also monitored over the same time period. The cosmeceutical formulations containing free extracts displayed bioactivity. For the formulations prepared with the encapsulated forms, the release of the extracts was achieved and anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities were observed, while for the antioxidant activity, the extract release over the time was not sufficient to exert an effect. Overall, the use of mushroom extracts in free or encapsulated forms can be an option in cosmeceutical formulations, and the encapsulated forms can allow a controlled release leading to bioactivity control

Phenolic acids, cinnamic acid, and ergosterol as cosmeceutical ingredients: Stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity

The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in cosmeceutical formulations.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Trabalho Livre nº 28 - Atividade Antibacteriana de Formulações Cosmeceuticos com Extratos de Cogumelos

A Organização Mundial de Saúde (OMS) publicou em 2014, e atualizou em 2015, o Relatório Global sobre a Vigilância da Resistência aos Antimicrobianos, no qual salienta que se trata de uma crescente ameaça à saúde pública, geradora de preocupação em múltiplos setores, à qual os governos de todo o mundo vêm prestando cada vez mais atenção. Assim, é urgente a descoberta de novas soluções antimicrobianas no combate das infeções. Os cogumelos têm sido reconhecidos como alimentos funcionais e como uma fonte para o desenvolvimento de medicamentos e nutracêuticos podendo ser uma fonte de antibióticos naturais.N/

Tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant properties of Asphodelus microcarpus extracts

Asphodelus microcarpus belongs to the family Liliaceae that include several medicinal plants. In the traditional medicine plants of the genus Asphodelus are used to treat skin disorders such as ectodermal parasites, psoriasis, microbial infection and for lightening freckles. In order to find novel skin depigmenting agents, the present work was carry out to evaluate antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory potential of leaves, flowers and tubers extracts of A. microcarpus. The phytochemical composition of the active extract was also evaluated

Sardinian honeys as sources of xanthine oxidase and tyrosinase inhibitors

Sardinian honeys obtained from different floral sources (Arbutus, Asphodelus, Eucalyptus, Thistle, and Sulla) were evaluated for their ability to inhibit tyrosinase and xanthine oxidase enzymes and for their antioxidant activity. Physicochemical parameters, total phenolic, and flavonoids content were also determined. Honey from Arbutus flowers had the highest antioxidant activity followed by Eucalyptus and Thistle ones. These three honeys showed good tyrosinase and xanthine oxidase inhibition properties. Thus, these Sardinian honeys could have a great potential as antioxidant sources for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications