El rol de la inteligencia emocional en el rendimiento en escalada

Purpose: To investigate the association between emotional intelligence (EI) and self-reported climbing ability. Methods: Redpoint climbing ability was used as an indicator of rock climbing performance and EI were assessed as ability and a trait using two different questionnaires MSCEIT and SSEIT in forty-three climbers (15 females and 28 males). ANOVA was used to analyse differences between male and female and advanced and elite climbers in EI parameters in both questionnaires. The analyses were also adjusted by age using ANCOVA. Results: Linear regression analysis revealed that there are no differences between trait EI and climbing performance, but we found the component `Facilitation Thought’ of EI measured as ability was inversely associated with the highest red-point ability. Conclusion: Our results suggest that elite climbers do not use their emotions to facilitate thinking as much as expert climbers, which is positively related to performance. Future researches should direct to investigate how elite climbers manage their emotions.Objetivo: Investigar la asociación entre la inteligencia emocional (IE) y el nivel de escalada autoinformada. Método: Se usó el nivel de escalada ensayado como un indicador del rendimiento de la escalada en roca y se evaluó en cuarenta y tres escaladores (15 mujeres y 28 hombres) la IE como habilidad tanto como rasgo, utilizando dos cuestionarios diferentes MSCEIT y SSEIT. Se utilizó un ANOVA para analizar las diferencias entre los escaladores masculinos y femeninos y avanzados y élite en los parámetros de IE en ambos cuestionarios. Los análisis también se ajustaron por edad utilizando un ANCOVA. Resultados: El análisis de regresión lineal reveló que no hay diferencias entre el rasgo IE y el rendimiento en escalada, pero encontramos que el componente´facilitación del pensamiento´ de IE como habilidad estaba inversamente asociado con un mayor nivel de escalada ensayada. Conclusión: Nuestros resultados sugieren que los escaladores de élite no usan sus emociones para facilitar el pensamiento, en relación con los escaladores expertos, lo que se relaciona positivamente con el rendimiento. Las investigaciones futuras deben dirigirse a investigar cómo los escaladores de élite manejan sus emocione

Body adiposity index and incident hypertension: The Aerobics Center Longitudinal Study

Background and aim The body adiposity index (BAI) has been recently proposed as a new method to estimate the percentage of body fat. The association between BAI and hypertension risk has not been investigated yet. The aim of our study was to evaluate the ability of BAI to predict hypertension in males and females compared with traditional body adiposity measures. Methods and results The present follow-up analysis comprised 10,309 individuals (2259 females) free of hypertension from the Aerobics Center Longitudinal Study, who completed a baseline examination between 1988 and 2003. Body adiposity measures included BAI, body mass index (BMI), waist circumference, hip circumference, percentage of body fat and waist to hip ratio (WHR). Incident hypertension was ascertained from responses to mail-back surveys between 1990 and 2004. During an average of 9.1 years of follow-up, 872 subjects (107 females) became hypertensive. Hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (95% CI) showed that males in the highest categories of all body adiposity measures showed a higher incident risk of hypertension (HRs ranged from 1.37 to 2.09). Females showed a higher incident risk of hypertension only in the highest categories of BAI, BMI and WHR (HRs ranged from 1.84 to 3.36). Conclusion Our results suggest that in order to predict incident hypertension BAI could be considered as an alternative to traditional body adiposity measures.The authors thank the Cooper Clinic physicians and technicians for collecting the data, and staff at the Cooper Institute for data entry and data management. This work was supported by “Conselleria de Educación de la Generalitat Valenciana” [BEST/2012/257]; Spanish Ministry of Education [EX-2010-1008]; National Institutes of Health [AG06945, HL62508, R21DK088195] and in part by an unrestricted research grant from The Coca-Cola Company. The content is solely the responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily represent the official views of the funding institutions

Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance

Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance.N/

Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers

Purpose. This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. Methods. Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results. A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0.112) for TSI x sex. However, there was a significant the main effect (p =0.027) handedness (dominant vs. non-dominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% quicker (t½ recovery mean difference = 1.12 sec, 95% CI 0.13 to 2.10 sec) compared to the non-dominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-month on-sight climbing ability or sex (p =0.839, p =0.683). Conclusions. Significant intra-individual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics within the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature such as an increase in capillary density and an enhanced improvement in capillary filtration

Ethnic differences in body composition and somatotype in Mapuche and non-Mapuche school children from Temuco-Chile

Los cambios culturales y demográficos en la etnia Mapuche chilena, han generado modificaciones en estilos de vida y la estructura morfofuncional de su población, incentivando de esta forma el estudio del estado de salud en jóvenes chilenos. El objetivo de este estudio fue analizar las diferencias en composición corporal y somatotipo entre niños Mapuche y no-Mapuche de la Comuna de Temuco en Chile. Participaron 122 niños Mapuche y 146 niños no-Mapuche entre 10 y 13 años. Se recogieron medidas de peso, talla; pliegues cutáneos y diámetros óseos; siguiendo el protocolo de la Sociedad Internacional para el desarrollo de la cineantropometría (ISAK). Se determinó el índice de masa corporal (IMC), estado nutricional, grasa corporal total y somatotipo (endomorfía, mesomorfía y ectomorfía). Los resultados indican que los niños Mapuche de 10 años presentaron valores menores de IMC (p0,01), grasa corporal total (p 0,001), así como de endomorfia y mesomorfia (p0,01) respecto a los no-Mapuche. Los niños Mapuche de 11-12 años presentaron valores menores de grasa corporal total (p0,01) y de endomorfia y ectomorfia (p0,05), comparados con los no-Mapuche. Los niños Mapuches de 13 años presentaron valores menores de grasa corporal total (p0,001) y de endomorfia y ectomorfía (p0,01) que el no-Mapuche. Los escolares Mapuches tienen menor grasa corporal que los niños no-Mapuche, el somatotipo predominante en la etnia Mapuche es el mesomórfico, observándose un componente endomórfico menor cuanto mayor es la edad. Son necesarias políticas de salud pública en los jóvenes, fundamentalmente educativa, para garantizar niveles adecuados de calidad de vida en ambas poblaciones Mapuches y no-Mapuche.The cultural and demographic development of modern society has also affected the Mapuche ethnia and has influenced changes in lifestyles and in the morphofunctional structure of the population, particularly in young people. The purpose of this study was to determine differences in body composition and somatotype between Mapuche and non-Mapuche children from Temuco, Chile. A total of 122 Mapuche and 146 non-Mapuche children between 10 and 13 years old participated in the study. The measurements included were weight, height, skinfold thickness of triceps, subscapularis, supraspinatus and calf; perimeters of contracted and relaxed arm, waist and calf circumference; and humeral and femoral diameters, all following the procedures reference manual (ISAK). Several indexes were calculated: Body Mass Index (BMI), weight status (underweight, normoweight, overweight, obesity), total body fat (fat mass, percentage of fat mass and percentage of fat mass >20% of obesity) and finally, somatotype (endomorph, ectomorph, mesomorph). Ten year-old Mapuche children had lower values for BMI (p 0,01), total body fat (p0.001), and endomorphic and mesomorphic values (p0.01), compared to non Mapuche children. Mapuche children of 11-12 years of age had lower values for total body fat (p0.01), and endomorphic and ectomorphic values (p0.05), compared to non-Mapuche children. Thirteen year-old Mapuche children had lower values for total body fat (p0.001), and endomorphic and ectomorphic values (p0.01), compared to non-Mapuche children. Mapuche children had lower fat mass than non-Mapuche children, and the main somatotype among Mapuche children is mesomorphic with a reduction of the endomorphic component with increasing age. Public policy for youth is required, mainly educational, to guarantee appropriate levels of quality of life for both Mapuche and non-Mapuche populations

Use of whole-body vibration as a mode of warming up before counter movement jump

This study was conducted without any conflict of interest, without financial assistance, and supported by grants from the Consejo Superior de Deportes (109/UPB31/03, 13/UPB20/04), the Spanish Ministry of Education and Science (AP2003-2128, AP-2004-2745; AP2005-3827; AP2005-4358) and the HELENA study (European Community Sixth RTD Framework Programme, FOOD-CT-005-007034)

Physiology of sport climbing

El presente trabajo revisa la literatura científica existente sobre la escalada deportiva con el objetivo de analizar en profundidad las características antropométricas y fisiológicas del escalador deportivo, así como las exigencias fisiológicas en el desarrollo de la actividad. La literatura revisada sugiere que los escaladores se caracterizan por tener un bajo peso corporal y un bajo porcentaje de masa grasa. También una alta fuerza de prensión manual y una alta fuerza resistencia. Algunos autores han considerado el consumo máximo de oxígeno como un determinante del rendimiento en escalada, sin embargo los resultados son contradictorios. Otros parámetros fisiológicos son analizados durante y después de la escalada. Se han detectado importantes diferencias metodológicas entre los estudios analizados, sugiriendo la necesidad de estandarizar los protocolos de evaluación en este deporte. La presente revisión contribuye de manera significativa a un mayor conocimiento de las características de este deporte y de quienes las practican, identificando diversas áreas de interés que requieren futuro estudio.The purpose of the present paper is to review the existing research on anthropometric and physiological characteristics of sport climbers as well as the physiological responses during the sport climbing. The literature suggests that the sport climbers are characterised by both a low percentage body fat and body mass. A high handgrip strength and high endurance strength also are specific characteristics of sport climbers. In contrast, it is not clear whether maximal oxygen consumption is a determinant of sport climbing performance. Several physiological parameters have been analysed during and after sport climbing such as heart rate, blood lactate and maximal strength. We have observed many differences in the assessment methodology between the studies, suggesting that a standardization of the evaluation protocols is needed in this sport discipline. This review provides a wide knowledge of the characteristics of this sport, as well as identifies particular areas that require further attention

El estatus socioeconómico influencia la condición física en adolescentes europeos : el estudio HELENA

Introduction: The influence of socioeconomic status on health-related fitness is not clear. Aim: To examine the influence of socioeconomic status on health-related fitness in adolescents. Methods: A total of 3,259 adolescents (15.0 ± 1.3 y) from the Healthy Lifestyle in Europe by Nutrition in Ado- lescence Cross-Sectional Study (HELENA-CSS) partici- pated in the study. Socioeconomic status was assessed by the family affluence scale (FAS). Speed-agility, muscular strength and cardiorespiratory fitness were assessed. Covariates included total body fat, physical activity and pubertal status. Results: Adolescents with high FAS had significantly higher fitness levels than their peers of lower FAS cate- gories except for speed-agility and handgrip in boys. Overall, the associations observed presented a medium to large effect size. Conclusion: These results suggest that socioeconomic status is positively associated with physical fitness in European adolescents independently of total body fat and habitual physical activityIntroducción: La influencia del estatus socioeconómico sobre la condición física en relación con la salud no está clara. Objetivo: Examinar la influencia del estatus socioeconómico sobre la condición física en relación con la salud en adolescentes. Metodología: Un total de 3259 adolescentes (15,0 ± 1,3 años) del “Healthy Lifestyle in Europe by Nutrition in Adolescence Cross-Sectional Study” (HELENA-CSS) participaron en el estudio. El estatus socioeconómico fue medido con una escala de riqueza familiar “family affluence scale (FAS)”. Se midieron velocidad-agilidad, fuerza muscular y capacidad aeróbica. Las covariables incluidas fueron grasa corporal total, actividad física y estadio madurativo. Resultados: Los adolescentes con alto FAS tuvieron significativamente mayores niveles de condición física que aquellos con bajo FAS exceptuando los tests de velocidad-agilidad y fuerza de prensión manual en chicos. En general, las asociaciones observadas presentaron un efecto del tamaño de la muestra (effect size) entre medio y largo. Conclusión: Estos resultados sugieren que el estatus socioeconómico esta positivamente asociado con la condición física en adolescentes Europeos independientemente de la grasa corporal total y el nivel de actividad física

Physical Fitness Enhancement Through Education, EDUFIT Study: Background, Design, Methodology and Dropout Analysis

El nivel de forma física es un potente indicador del estado de salud cardiovascular ya desde edades tempranas. Mejorar el nivel de condición física es una necesidad educativa ya que contribuye a aumentar la salud pública y el bienestar presente y futuro. El objeto del presente artículo es describir la metodología y diseño de un pro­ yecto educativo diseñado con esta finalidad, denominado EDUFIT (EDUcación para el FITness). EDUFIT se llevó a cabo en 2007 y participaron 67 escolares de 13±1 años, pertenecientes a tres clases de Enseñanza Secundaria. Las clases fueron aleatoriamente asigna­ das a grupo control (GC), grupo experimental 1 (GE1) o grupo expe­ rimental 2 (GE2). El GC recibió 2 sesiones de educación física por semana, el GE1 recibió 4 sesiones (incremento del volumen) y el GE2 recibió 4 sesiones de alta intensidad (incremento del volu­ men+intensidad). Al inicio y tras 16 semanas de intervención se valoró: condición física, composición corporal, perfil lipídico­ metabólico, parámetros ventilatorios, tensión arterial, y rendimiento cognitivo y escolar. La intervención fue viable y tuvo buena acepta­ ción entre el alumnado, padres y centro educativo. Se observaron altas tasas de participación (96%, n=67) y de adhesión al programa (84%, n=56). El análisis de adhesión/abandono mostró que, aunque no llega a ser una diferencia significativa (0,1>P>0,05), los adoles­ centes que completaron el programa mostraron mejores valores en capacidad cognitiva y rendimiento académico, y peores en adiposi­ dad, tensión diastólica, fuerza de prensión manual y presión espira­ toria máxima. La hipótesis del estudio EDUFIT es que duplicar el número de clases de educación física por semana mejorará la condi­ ción física de los adolescentes. Si dicha hipótesis se constata, las implicaciones desde el punto de vista de salud pública podrían ser importantes.Physical fitness is a powerful marker of cardiovascular health already at early stages in life. To promote physical fitness enhancement from the school is therefore needed. The present study describes a school intervention program specifically designed for these purposes, called EDUFIT (EDUcation for FITness). The study was carried out in 2007 and comprised 67 adolescents aged 13+/-1 years from a secondary school who belonged to three different classes. The classes were randomly allocated to control group (CG), experimental group 1 (EG1) and experimental group 2 (EG2). The CG was involved in 2 physical education sessions/week, the EG1 was involved in 4 physical education sessions/week (volume increased) and the EG2 was involved in 4 physical education sessions/week of high intensity (volume+intensity increased). Several health parameters were assessed before and after a 16-weeks intervention: physical fitness, body composition, lipid-metabolic profile, ventilatory parameters, blood pressure, and cognitive and academic performance. The intervention was feasible and well-tolerated. There were high participation and adherence rates, i.e. 96% (n=67) and 84% (n=56) respectively. Yet not always significant (0,1>P>0,05), we observed that the adolescents who satisfactory complete the program showed better cognitive and academic performance, and worse levels of adiposity, diastolic tension, handgrip strength and maximal expiratory pressure. The hypothesis of the EDUFIT study is that to double the number of physical education classes will improve physical fitness in adolescents. The confirmation of the hypothesis could have important public health implications.El presente estudio tiene lugar gracias a recursos materiales y humanos procedentes de dos proyectos europeos financiados por la Comisión Europea: el estudio HELENA (Contract FOOD-CT-2005-007034) y el estudio ALPHA (Ref: 2006120). También gracias a fondos FEDER del Ministerio de Educación y Ciencia (Acciones Complementarias DEP2007-29933-E) y del Grupo de Trabajo 0123/07 del Centro de Profesores y Recursos Murcia II de la Consejería de Educación, Formación y Empleo de la Región de Murcia. Algunos de los investigadores involucrados en este estudio están financiados por becas pre-doctorales y post-doctorales del Ministerio de Educación y Ciencia (AP-2005-3827, AP2005-4358, EX-2007-1124, EX-2008-0641)