Examining the Skill Gap in Fashion Education

This research explores the importance of sewing skills within HE fashion education. Recent literature has identified significant discussion concerning a graduate skills gap at the onset of employment. Some industry specialists fear that educators are not doing enough to promote the technical side of fashion. As a consequence, there are concerns of a widening gap in the uptake of technical job roles within the fashion sector. This research investigates potential reasons why students might not make these career choices, focusing mainly on the teaching of construction skills through the development of a resource tool to enhance the curriculum to bridge this recognised gap. To contextualise the development of this project, literature has examined key areas of interest. These include studies relating to skill gaps, manufacture and production techniques as well as the relationship between technical skill and career interests. This research has applied a variety of methodologies, which have explored the skills required for fundamental sewing processes, the value of sewing from educational and industry perspectives and issues relating to the recognised skills gap and career choices. Methods have included object-based study, interviews with manufacturers and a focus group with second year BA (Hons) fashion design students undertaking pattern cutting and manufacture sessions. To evaluate the effectiveness of the resource tool of stitch and garment finishing techniques, questionnaires, observations and examinations were conducted with undergraduate students undertaking sewing sessions. This research has revealed that the resource tool was successful in engaging students with garment construction techniques, and that this was most beneficial when used in conjunction with other methods. During testing it was apparent that students preferred to work more creatively, using inventiveness over memory of previously taught sewing skills when producing samples. Interestingly, the research has also highlighted two distinctions; that further technical knowledge in sewing appears to, in some instances, have limited the creativity of students’ fashion design outcomes when advancing from a foundation to intermediate level of study. However, there is also evidence to suggest that further engagement with sewing had a positive influence on their understanding of garment construction informing feasible design. There appears to be minimal evidence that links strong sewing skill with the ambition to choose careers in the manufacturing sector. The conclusions from this research, including the testing results from the resource tool, support the development of a technical curriculum within the BA curriculum, and the development of a qualification level prior to BA

Fin whale survival and abundance in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Canada

The fin whale Balaenoptera physalus, the second largest species in the animal kingdom to have lived on Earth, was heavily targeted during the industrial whaling era. North Atlantic whaling for this species ended in 1987 and it is unclear if the populations are recovering. The stock structure in the North Atlantic is still under debate, but several lines of evidence suggest that fin whales in the Gulf of St. Lawrence may form a discrete stock with limited exchange with the rest of the North Atlantic. We applied mark-recapture models to 21 yr of photo-identification data from the Jacques-Cartier Passage to estimate the abundance and, for the first time, a survival rate based on live re-sightings for this stock of fin whales. Using the Cormack-Jolly-Seber model, we estimated a unisex non-calf apparent survival rate of 0.955 (95% CI: 0.936 to 0.969) for the period 1990 to 2010, declining in the last 4 yr of the study. The reduced survivorship was likely caused by a lower site fidelity combined with a higher mortality. The POPAN model yielded a super-population estimate of 328 individuals (95% CI: 306 to 350) for the period 2004 to 2010, and confirmed the negative trend in apparent survival and annual abundance, indicating that the population has not increased since the last large-scale surveys from 1974 and 1997.Publisher PDFPeer reviewe

Prognostic Significance of New Immunohistochemical Markers in Refractory Classical Hodgkin Lymphoma: A Study of 59 Cases

Although most classical Hodgkin lymphoma patients are cured, a significant minority fail after primary therapy and may die as result of their disease. To date, there is no consensus on biological markers that add value to usual parameters (which comprise the International Prognostic Score) used at diagnosis to predict outcome. We evaluated 59 patients (18 with primary refractory or early relapse disease and 41 responders) for bcl2, Ki67, CD20, TiA1 and c-kit expression by semi-quantitative immunohistochemical study and correlated the results with the response to treatment

Phenotypic and genotypic characteristics of mastocytosis according to the age of onset.

International audienceAdult's mastocytosis is usually associated with persistent systemic involvement and c-kit 816 mutation, while pediatrics disease is mostly limited to the skin and often resolves spontaneously. We prospectively included 142 adult patients with histologically proven mastocytosis. We compared phenotypic and genotypic features of adults patients whose disease started during childhood (Group 1, n = 28) with those of patients whose disease started at adult's age (Group 2, n = 114). Genotypic analysis was performed on skin biopsy by sequencing of c-kit exons 17 and 8 to 13. According to WHO classification, the percentage of systemic disease was similar (75 vs. 73%) in 2 groups. C-kit 816 mutation was found in 42% and 77% of patients in groups 1 and 2, respectively (p<0.001). 816 c-kit mutation was associated with systemic mastocytosis in group 2 (87% of patients with systemic mastocytosis vs. 45% with cutaneous mastocytosis, p = 0.0001). Other c-kit activating mutations were found in 23% of patients with mastocytosis' onset before the age of 5, 0% between 6 and 15 years and 2% at adults' age (p<0.001). In conclusion, pathogenesis of mastocytosis significantly differs according to the age of disease's onset. Our data may have major therapeutic relevance when considering c-kit-targeted therapy

Transl Psychiatry

Understanding how malnutrition contributes to depression is building momentum. In the present study we unravel molecular and cellular mechanisms by which nutritional disturbances lead to impaired emotional behaviour in mice. Here we report that nutritional n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) deficiency induces a chronic stress state reflected by disrupted glucocorticoid receptor (GR)-mediated signalling pathway along with hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis hyperactivity. This hyperactivity in turn resulted in neuronal atrophy in the dorsolateral (dl)- and dorsomedial (dm)- prefrontal cortex (PFC) and subsequent mood-related behaviour alterations, similarly to chronic social defeat stress. Supplementation of n-3 PUFA prevented detrimental chronic social defeat stress-induced emotional and neuronal impairments by impeding HPA axis hyperactivity. These results indicate a role for dietary n-3 PUFA in the prevention of HPA axis dysfunction associated with the development of some neuropsychiatric disorders including depression.Dépression et Nutritio

STRATEGIE THERAPEUTIQUE DES DEFICITS ACQUIS EN FACTEUR VIII (ETUDE A PROPOS DE SIX CAS ET REVUE DE LA LITTERATURE (DES HEMATOLOGIE))

PARIS5-BU Méd.Cochin (751142101) / SudocPARIS-BIUM (751062103) / SudocSudocFranceF