Storm-induced sediment gravity flows at the head of the Eel submarine canyon, northern California margin

10 pages, 5 figuresAs part of the STRATAFORM program, a bottom-boundary layer (BBL) tripod was deployed at 120 m depth in the northern thalweg of the Eel Canyon during winter 2000. Increases of the near-bottom suspended-sediment concentrations (SSC) recorded at the canyon head were not directly related to the Eel River discharge, but were clearly linked to the occurrence of storms. BBL measurements revealed that during intensifications of the wave orbital velocity, sediment transport at the head of the canyon occurred as sediment gravity flows directed down-canyon. Observational evidence for near-bed sediment gravity-flow transport included an increase toward the bed of the down-canyon component of wave-averaged velocity and high estimated SSC. At higher sampling frequencies (1 Hz), the current components during these events fluctuated at the same periodicity as the pressure, reflecting a clear influence of the surface-wave activity on the generation and maintenance of the sediment gravity flows. The origin of such flows is not related to the formation of fluid muds on the shelf or to intense wave-current sediment resuspension around the canyon head region. Rather, liquefaction of sediment deposited at the head of the canyon (induced by wave-load excess pore water pressures during storms) combined with elevated slopes around the canyon head appear to be the mechanisms initiating sediment transport. The resulting fluidized-sediment layer can easily be eroded, entrained into the water column, and transported down-canyon as a sediment gravity flow. Results from this study reveal that storm-induced sediment gravity flows occur periodically in the Eel Canyon head, and suggest that this kind of sediment transport process can occur in other submarine canyons more frequently than previously expected. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical UnionThis work has been funded by the Office of Naval Research, Marine Geology and Geophysics Program, grants N00014-95-1-0418 and N00014-99-1-0028, as part of the STRATAFORM program. P. Puig received financial support from a Fulbright scholarship provided by the Spanish Ministry of Education and CulturePeer Reviewe

How tidal processes impact the transfer of sediment from source to sink : Mekong River collaborative studies

Author Posting. © Oceanography Society, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of Oceanography Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Oceanography 30, no. 3 (2017): 22–33, doi:10.5670/oceanog.2017.311.Significant sediment transformation and trapping occur along the tidal and estuarine reaches of large rivers, complicating sediment source signals transmitted to the coastal ocean. The collaborative Mekong Tropical Delta Study explored the tidally influenced portion of the Mekong River to investigate processes that impact mud- and sand-sized sediment transport and deposition associated with varying fluvial and marine influences. Researchers participating in this 2014–2015 project found that as sand and mud progress down the tidal portion of the river, sands in suspension can settle during reduced or slack flows as river discharge becomes progressively more affected by tides in the seaward direction. Consequently, deposits on the tidal river bed are connected to sand transport in the channel. In contrast, fine mud particles remain in suspension until they reach an interface zone where waters are still fresh, but the downstream saline estuary nonetheless impacts the flows. In this interface zone, as within the estuary, fine particles tend to settle, draping the sand beds with mud and limiting the connection between the bed and suspended sand. In the Mekong system, the interface and estuarine zones migrate along the distributary channels seasonally, resulting in variable trapping dynamics and channel bed texture. Therefore, the signature of fluvial-sediment discharge is altered on its path to the coastal ocean, and the disconnected mud and sand supply functions at the river mouth should result in distinct offshore depositional signatures.This research was funded by the US Office of Naval Research (grant numbers: N00014-15-1-2011, N00014- 13-1-0127, N00014-13-1-0781, N00014-14-1-0145)

Wave- and tidally-driven flow and sediment flux across a fringing coral reef : southern Molokai, Hawaii

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Continental Shelf Research 24 (2004): 1397-1419, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2004.02.010.The fringing coral reef off the south coast of Molokai, Hawaii is currently being studied as part of a US Geological Survey (USGS) multi-disciplinary project that focuses on geologic and oceanographic processes that affect coral reef systems. For this investigation, four instrument packages were deployed across the fringing coral reef during the summer of 2001 to understand the processes governing fine-grained terrestrial sediment suspension on the shallow reef flat (h=1 m) and its advection across the reef crest and onto the deeper fore reef. The time–series measurements suggest the following conceptual model of water and fine-grained sediment transport across the reef: Relatively cool, clear water flows up onto the reef flat during flooding tides. At high tide, more deep-water wave energy is able to propagate onto the reef flat and larger Trade wind-driven waves can develop on the reef flat, thereby increasing sediment suspension. Trade wind-driven surface currents and wave breaking at the reef crest cause setup of water on the reef flat, further increasing the water depth and enhancing the development of depth-limited waves and sediment suspension. As the tide ebbs, the water and associated suspended sediment on the reef flat drains off the reef flat and is advected offshore and to the west by Trade wind- and tidally- driven currents. Observations on the fore reef show relatively high turbidity throughout the water column during the ebb tide. It therefore appears that high suspended sediment concentrations on the deeper fore reef, where active coral growth is at a maximum, are dynamically linked to processes on the muddy, shallow reef flat

Shoreline armoring disrupts marine-terrestrial connectivity in the Salish Sea, with consequences for invertebrates, fish, and birds

Within the marine-terrestrial ecotone, upper intertidal “wrack zones” accumulate organic debris from algae, seagrass, and terrestrial plant sources and provide food and shelter for many organisms. We conducted detailed surveys of wrack and log accumulations and supralittoral invertebrates in spring and fall over 3 years at 29 armored-unarmored beach pairs in Puget Sound, WA, USA. Additionally, behavioral observations of juvenile salmon (Oncorhynchus spp.) and birds were conducted at 6 pairs. Armored beaches had substantially less wrack overall, a lower proportion of terrestrial plant material in the wrack, and far fewer logs. Armored beaches had significantly fewer invertebrates and differed from unarmored beaches in their taxonomic composition. Unarmored invertebrate assemblages were dominated by talitrid amphipods and insects, and were correlated with the amount of beach wrack and logs, the proportion of terrestrial material in wrack, and the maximum elevation of the beach. Shoreline armoring influenced juvenile salmon distribution, with fewer overall observations and fish in deeper water at armored beaches, but their feeding rates were relatively high at all sites. Terrestrial birds were commonly observed foraging among beach wrack and logs at unarmored beaches, but were largely absent from armored beaches. This study demonstrates that shoreline armoring disrupts marine-terrestrial connectivity, affecting the amount and type of organic material delivered to the nearshore ecotone in the form of wrack and logs, the abundance and taxonomic composition of supralittoral invertebrates, and the distribution and behavior of secondary consumers (juvenile salmon and birds)

Sediment dynamics in the lower Mekong River : transition from tidal river to estuary

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2015. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 120 (2015): 6363–6383, doi:10.1002/2015JC010754.A better understanding of flow and sediment dynamics in the lowermost portions of large-tropical rivers is essential to constraining estimates of worldwide sediment delivery to the ocean. Flow velocity, salinity, and suspended-sediment concentration were measured for 25 h at three cross sections in the tidal Song Hau distributary of the Mekong River, Vietnam. Two campaigns took place during comparatively high-seasonal and low-seasonal discharge, and estuarine conditions varied dramatically between them. The system transitioned from a tidal river with ephemeral presence of a salt wedge during high flow to a partially mixed estuary during low flow. The changing freshwater input, sediment sources, and estuarine characteristics resulted in seaward sediment export during high flow and landward import during low flow. The Dinh An channel of the Song Hau distributary exported sediment to the coast at a rate of about 1 t s−1 during high flow and imported sediment in a spatially varying manner at approximately 0.3 t s−1 during low flow. Scaling these values results in a yearly Mekong sediment discharge estimate about 65% smaller than a generally accepted estimate of 110 Mt yr−1, although the limited temporal and spatial nature of this study implies a relatively high degree of uncertainty for the new estimate. Fluvial advection of sediment was primarily responsible for the high-flow sediment export. Exchange-flow and tidal processes, including local resuspension, were principally responsible for the low-flow import. The resulting bed-sediment grain size was coarser and more variable during high flow and finer during low, and the residual flow patterns support the maintenance of mid-channel islands.Office of Naval Research Grant Numbers: N00014-12-1-0181 , N00014-13-1-0127 , N00014-13-1-0781, and National Defense Science and Engineering2016-03-2

Light availability controls in the benthic nearshore ecosystem of the Elwha River

The Elwha River Restoration Project was the largest US dam removal project to date, both in dam height and sediment released. During dam removal in 2011–2014, ~18 Mt of sediment washed downriver, and macroalgae virtually disappeared from the adjacent nearshore ecosystem. The link between current benthic light availability and sediment delivery and transport has been investigated in order to understand conditions during dam removal. Seven instrument platforms were deployed on the 10-m isobath along a 16 km transect centered on the river mouth for seven fortnightly periods in 2016 and 2017 to monitor near-bed photosynthetically available radiation (PAR), suspended sediment, wave climate, current velocity, temperature, and salinity. Water-column profiles, bed sediment, and water samples were collected during deployments. Seasonally variable chlorophyll-a and colored dissolved organic matter did not contribute substantially to light attenuation compared to suspended sediment. Along the 10-m isobath within 1.5 km of the river mouth, the greatest light attenuation occurred when wave events coincided with or followed periods of high river discharge. However, discharge events lasting attenuation; energetic tidal currents promote rapid sediment export out of the nearshore environment. In the buoyant plume, maximum light attenuation occurred within 1 m of the surface, reducing light through the rest of the water column. Benthic PAR varied more during spring tides when plume location was more variable. Alongshore 1.5 to 8 km from the river mouth, light availability was not directly coupled to river discharge. Light attenuation occurred throughout the water column, influenced by resuspension due to strong currents and wave events. This subsurface attenuation would not be captured by remote sensing. Predicting benthic light availability over event, tidal, and seasonal timescales will improve management strategies designed to limit ecosystem damage during other dam removals or sediment delivery events

Building the Holocene clinothem in the Gulf of Papua: An ocean circulation study

This paper investigates the role that tidal and wind-driven flows and buoyant river plumes play in the development of the Holocene clinothem in the Gulf of Papua. Time series data from bottom tripods and a mooring were obtained at four locations near the mouth of the Fly River during portions of 2003 and 2004. Flows in the Gulf of Papua during calendar year 2003 were hindcast every 3 h using the Navy Coastal Ocean Model (NCOM) with boundary conditions from the Navy Atmospheric Prediction System, the east Asian seas implementation of NCOM, and the OTIS Tidal Inversion System. Results show that tidal flows on the modern clinoform are strong and are landward and seaward directed. Peak spring tidal velocities can provide the shear stresses necessary to keep sediment up to sand size in motion as the wind-driven and baroclinic currents distribute it from the river mouths across and along the shelf in two circulation states. During the monsoon season, the clinoform topset is swept by a seaward surface flow and landward bottom flow, reflecting river plumes and coastal upwelling. Seaward, this structure evolves into a SW directed surface current over the clinothem foreset with accompanying landward directed near-bed currents that trend obliquely up the foreset to the WSW over much of the clinothem. During the trade wind season, the inner and outer topset are swept by NE directed, contour-parallel surface currents, underneath which lie obliquely landward near-bed currents. These modeled flows and complex gyres in shallow water coupled with wave- and current-supported gravity flows or river floods can explain the form, internal clinoform shapes, and mineralogy of the modern Gulf of Papua clinothem

Experiential education and outreach based on nearshore monitoring of the Elwha River restoration project

Nearshore monitoring of benthic habitats and the coastal environment following the Elwha River Restoration project has engaged students and citizens with coastal science and management issues. In the post-dam-removal period, the lessons learned will continue to be disseminated via a UW undergraduate course and an interactive digital map, both designed to engage students and communities in restoration science. The research-focused course developed at the UW Friday Harbor Labs has allowed us to engage diverse undergraduate students (and graduate teaching assistants) in the research process. The course integrates interdisciplinary lectures and workshops on data analysis and laboratory methods, with the research process; from proposal to oceanographic data collection to analysis to publication. The course provides opportunities for student creativity and leadership. Outcome tracking indicates that these undergraduate (and post-bac) students are generally attending graduate school at a high rate, and launching careers in education, coastal management, and other STEM fields. To engage a broader segment of the community and to support decision-making about large-scale coastal restoration projects, we have developed an interactive digital map that will be available on-line, and will also be piloted as a physical interpretive display at the Feiro Marine Life Center in Port Angeles, WA. The interactive digital map is designed to effectively tell the story of the Elwha restoration in the coastal environment through the compilation and display of multiple data sets, some of which have never before been publicly available. Ultimately, the result of long-term monitoring of the Elwha nearshore system will provide a better understanding of the effects of restoration activities, such as dam removal on benthic habitats, and this knowledge will be passed to future managers and citizens through educational and outreach activities that captivate and inspire a broad audience

Sedimentation and survival of the Mekong Delta: A case study of decreased sediment supply and accelerating rates of relative sea level rise

The Mekong Delta, early in the twenty-first century, is at a tipping point for sustainability. The delta is threatened by the implications of (1) damming and land-use changes in the drainage basin, (2) a burgeoning delta population in a nation (Vietnam) undergoing rapid development, (3) accelerating rates of rising sea level, and (4) an uncertain future climate that may impact tropical-cyclone frequency and monsoonal precipitation patterns in the basin. These threats are present in other great rivers that emerge from the Himalayas. Two primary threats are examined in light of recent joint Vietnam-US studies in the largest distributary (Song Hau) of the Mekong River, in the shore-fringing mangroves, and on the adjacent subaqueous delta. We consider the implications of declining sediment loads from the catchment (as well as modification of the annual hydrograph) and flooding and salinity intrusion associated with relative sea level rise (eustatic + subsidence). This 2014–2015 study shows the interconnectivity in fluvial sediment supply to these parts of the delta: declining sediment loads and rising sea levels will likely impact distributary channel morphology and will alter estuarine circulation and sediment-trapping efficiency, all of which have feedbacks on sediment provision to the mangrove forests and the shelf

The landward and seaward mechanisms of fine-sediment transport across intertidal flats in the shallow-water region—A numerical investigation

Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2011. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B.V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Continental Shelf Research 60 Suppl. (2013): S85-S98, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2012.02.003.This study investigates transport of fine sediment across idealized intertidal flats with emphasis on resolving processes at the tidal edge, which is defined as the very shallow region of the land-water interface. We first utilize a two-dimensional, vertical numerical model solving the non-hydrostatic Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations with a k-ε turbulence closure. The numerical model adopts the Volume of Fluid method to simulate the wetting and drying region of the intertidal flat. The model is demonstrated to be able to reproduce the classic theory of tidal-flat hydrodynamics of Friedrichs and Aubrey (1996) and to predict the turbidity at the tidal edge that is similar, qualitatively, to prior field observations. The Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is also utilized to simulate the same idealized tidal flat to evaluate its applicability in this environment. We demonstrate that when a small critical depth (hcrit =2 cm) in the wetting and drying scheme is adopted, ROMS is able to predict the main features of hydrodynamics and sediment-transport processes similar to that predicted by the RANS-VOF model. When driving the models with a symmetric tidal forcing, both models predict landward transport on the lower and upper flat and seaward transport in the subtidal region. When the very shallow region of the tidal edge is well resolved, both models predict an asymmetry of tidal velocity magnitude between the flood and the ebb that may encourage landward sediment transport on the flat. Further model simulation suggests that the predicted landward transport of sediment on the flat is mainly due to the settling-lag effect while the asymmetry of tidal velocity magnitude may add a lesser but non-negligible amount. When the bed erosion is limited by the availability of soft mud, the predicted transport direction becomes landward in both the subtidal region and on the flat. These results suggest that the tidal flow generally encourages landward transport while significant seaward transport may be caused by other mechanisms. Comparisons with field observations show similarities in the net landward transport on the flat and enhanced stresses and suspended-sediment concentrations near the very shallow region of the tidal edge. The field results also indicate significant transport of sediment occurs through the channels, as a function of three-dimensional processes, which are not incorporated in the present idealized modeling.This study is supported by U.S. Office of Naval Research (Littoral Science and Optics program manager Dr. Thomas Drake) as part of the Tidal Flat DRI (N00014-09-1-0134; N00014-11-1-0270). SNC received partial support from Taiwan's National Science Council under grant NSC 100-2119-M-002 -028