From Garment to Fashion Production: An Analysis of the Evolution of the Apparel Industry in Brazil

This study aims at contributing to the analysis of the evolution of apparel industry in Brazil by answering the following questions: (a) Does global sourcing still explain the value upgrading process in the apparel production chains?; (b) Are there new sources of value upgrading to be considered?; (c) Is the dynamics of the apparel production pervaded by a phenomenon that is strongly related to a cultural and creative know-how? Two theoretical approaches are considered to unveil the value upgrading process in the apparel production: (a) theory about global value chains and (b) studies about cultural and creative industries. To investigate the research questions we analyzed the case of the Brazilian apparel industry evolution through the use of a methodological perspective nurtured by aspects of grounded theory. The findings of this study indicate that companies are able to upgrade not only through improvements in manufacturing steps but also by means of incorporating elements of cultural distinction in the apparel production. Analysis of the Brazilian case led us to propose an integrative theoretical approach where elements of the global apparel value chains are combined with studies of cultural and creative industries. We consider that an integrative approach can better explain value creation in the apparel industry in a context of new markets, where there is not only the development of apparel manufacturing clusters but also the emergence of a unique and local fashion apparel chain

Bayesian clustering of curves and the search of the partition space

This thesis is concerned with the study of a Bayesian clustering algorithm, proposed by Heard et al. (2006), used successfully for microarray experiments over time. It focuses not only on the development of new ways of setting hyperparameters so that inferences both reflect the scientific needs and contribute to the inferential stability of the search, but also on the design of new fast algorithms for the search over the partition space. First we use the explicit forms of the associated Bayes factors to demonstrate that such methods can be unstable under common settings of the associated hyperparameters. We then prove that the regions of instability can be removed by setting the hyperparameters in an unconventional way. Moreover, we demonstrate that MAP (maximum a posteriori) search is satisfied when a utility function is defined according to the scientific interest of the clusters. We then focus on the search over the partition space. In model-based clustering a comprehensive search for the highest scoring partition is usually impossible, due to the huge number of partitions of even a moderately sized dataset. We propose two methods for the partition search. One method encodes the clustering as a weighted MAX-SAT problem, while the other views clusterings as elements of the lattice of partitions. Finally, this thesis includes the full analysis of two microarray experiments for identifying circadian genes

Estudo do efeito do tempo de reação nas propriedades físico-químicas do produto líquido orgânico no processo de craqueamento térmico e termo-catalítico de gordura residual em reator de leito fixo a 450 °C / Study of the effect of reaction time on the physical-chemical properties of the organic liquid products by thermal and thermal catalytic cracking process of residual fat in a fixed bed reactor at 450 °C

Neste trabalho investigou-se o processo de craqueamento térmico e termo-catalitico da gordura residual em escala semi-piloto a 450 °C, 1,0 atmosfera, utilizando-se lama vermelha ativada (HCl 1.0 M) a 5% (peso) como catalisador. Os produtos líquidos de reação (PLO) foram caracterizados em termos de densidade, índice de acidez, viscosidade cinemática e índice de refração. O rendimento do produto líquido de reação (PLO) foi de 79,42 e 54,4% (m./m.) para o craqueamento térmico e termo-catalítico, respectivamente, enquanto os rendimentos das fases gás, sólida, e aquosa para o craqueamento térmico e termo-catalítico foram de 2,48 e 34,22% (m./m.); 6,6 e 8,6% (m./m.); 11,5 e 1,96% (m./m.), respectivamentes. Detrminou-se a cinética reacional através da coleta de amostras ao longo do processo em 40, 50, 60, e 70 minutos para o craqueamento termo-catalítico e 50, 60, 70 e 80 minutos para o craqueamento térmico, possibilitando-se analisar o comportamento da densidade, índice de acidez, viscosidade cinemática e índice de refração em função do tempo de reação. Os resultados monstram um decréscimo da densidade, acidez, e viscosidade do PLO ao longo do tempo de reação para o craqueamento térmico, e uma diminuição da densidade e acidez para o craqueamento termo-catalítico, demostrando a ocorrência de processos de fragmentação dos triglicerídeos em ácidos carboxílicos e transformação dos ácidos carboxílicos em hidrocarbonetos e compostos oxigenados, ao mesmo tempo em que, a baixa acidez observada na amostra coletada nos últimos pontos indicam uma mistura rica em hidrocarboneto

Pharmacological activity of the hydroalcoholic extract from Hovenia dulcis thunberg fruit and the flavonoid dihydromyricetin during hypercholesterolemia induced in rats

Cerebrovascular accidents and coronary artery disease are the leading causes of cardiovascular mortalities in Brazil and high levels of LDL cholesterol are one of the main risk factors. In this context, several plant extracts and natural substances have shown promise as cholesterol-lowering. The objective of this study was to evaluate the potential of the hydroalcoholic extract of the fruit of H. dulcisand of dihydromyricetin in cholesterol reduction in hypercholesterolemic rats. Forty-two Wistar male rats were distributed into seven groups of six animals that received diets supplemented with 1% cholesterol and 0.3% cholic acid, with the exception of the control group, which received conventional diets. Animals were treated with oral suspensions containing: atorvastatin 1.0 mg/kg; H. dulcisextract at 50.0 and 100.0 mg/kg and dihydromyricetin at 25.0 and 50.0 mg/kg vehicle (control group). The following biochemical markers were evaluated; total cholesterol, HDL-C, LDL-C, triglycerides, AST, ALT, and alkaline phosphatase. The hypercholesterolemic diet was effective in inducing hypercholesterolemia, increasing total cholesterol by 112.7% relative to the control group. The treatments with two doses of the extract proved to be promising hypocholesterolemic agents, as they were able to substantially reduce total cholesterol and LDL-C, without significantly altering triglycerides, hepatic transaminases, and alkaline phosphatase, thereby encouraging the studies with the plant H. dulcis. The groups treated with the flavonoid dihydromyricetin, although they showed a significant reduction in total cholesterol and LDL-C, and found increases in triglycerides and hepatic transaminases, which is unwanted in the context of hypercholesterolaemia

ABORDAGEM MULTIDISCIPLINAR NO TRATAMENTO DE DEFORMIDADES FACIAIS: REVISÃO DE LITERATURA

The face is the region of expression of the soul, where all feelings are represented. It plays an important role in establishing social relationships, as well as communication and quality of life. This functional, aesthetic and social relevance of the face makes facial deformities the cause of anguish and isolation for individuals. Facial deformities can be congenital or acquired through trauma or mutilation, and the severity of the injury is very particular, which makes the use of metrics difficult. The objective of this literature review is to demonstrate the multidisciplinary approach in the treatment of facial deformities. Among the main facial deformities of congenital origin, cleft lip and palate are the most frequent and can develop various changes that compromise everything from the position of the teeth, such as speech, eating, breathing and aesthetics. Treatment for facial injuries must involve a multidisciplinary team, including a plastic and maxillofacial surgeon, otorhinolaryngologist, orthodontist, prosthetist, speech therapist, geneticist, psychologist and nutritionist. Therefore, facial deformities have a strong influence on the aesthetics, quality of life and social integration of individuals affected by these injuries. It is also important to highlight the need to have a multidisciplinary team in the care of patients with facial deformities, considering that these changes can compromise the individual's various physical and psychological functions. It is extremely important to monitor different professionals in a multidisciplinary approach in the treatment of facial deformities from the beginning of the diagnosis and throughout the patient's life, always seeking the well-being and quality of life for those with these injuries.A face é a região de expressão da alma, onde todos os sentimentos são representados. Desempenha um importante papel no estabelecimento das relações sociais, bem como na comunicação e na qualidade de vida. Essa relevância funcional, estética e social da face torna as deformidades faciais a causa de angústia e isolamento dos indivíduos. As deformidades faciais podem ser do tipo congênitas ou adquiridas por traumas ou mutilações, e a gravidade da lesão é muito particular, o que torna difícil a utilização de métricas. O  objetivo  desta  revisão de literatura  é  demonstrar a abordagem multidisciplinar no tratamento das deformidades faciais. Dentre  as  principais  deformidade faciais de origem congênita, as fissuras lábio palatinas são as mais frequentes e podem desenvolver diversas alterações que comprometem desde a posição dos dentes, como a fala, a alimentação, a respiração e a estética. O tratamento para lesões na face deve envolver uma equipe multidisciplinar, incluindo cirurgião plástico e bucomaxilofacial, otorrinolaringologista,   ortodontista, protesista, fonoaudiólogo, geneticista, psicólogo e nutricionista. Portanto, as deformidade faciais exercem forte influência na estética, na qualidade de vida e na integração social de indivíduos acometidos por essas lesões. Também é importante ressaltar a necessidade de conter uma equipe multidisciplinar no atendimento de pacientes com deformidades faciais, tendo em vista que essas alterações podem comprometer diversas funções físicas e psicológicas do indivíduo. É de suma importância o acompanhamento de diversos profissionais em uma abordagem multidisciplinar no tratamento de deformidade faciais desde o início do diagnóstico e durante toda a vida do paciente buscando sempre o bem-estar e qualidade de vida para portadores dessas lesões

Geographic patterns of tree dispersal modes in Amazonia and their ecological correlates

Aim: To investigate the geographic patterns and ecological correlates in the geographic distribution of the most common tree dispersal modes in Amazonia (endozoochory, synzoochory, anemochory and hydrochory). We examined if the proportional abundance of these dispersal modes could be explained by the availability of dispersal agents (disperser-availability hypothesis) and/or the availability of resources for constructing zoochorous fruits (resource-availability hypothesis). Time period: Tree-inventory plots established between 1934 and 2019. Major taxa studied: Trees with a diameter at breast height (DBH) ≥ 9.55 cm. Location: Amazonia, here defined as the lowland rain forests of the Amazon River basin and the Guiana Shield. Methods: We assigned dispersal modes to a total of 5433 species and morphospecies within 1877 tree-inventory plots across terra-firme, seasonally flooded, and permanently flooded forests. We investigated geographic patterns in the proportional abundance of dispersal modes. We performed an abundance-weighted mean pairwise distance (MPD) test and fit generalized linear models (GLMs) to explain the geographic distribution of dispersal modes. Results: Anemochory was significantly, positively associated with mean annual wind speed, and hydrochory was significantly higher in flooded forests. Dispersal modes did not consistently show significant associations with the availability of resources for constructing zoochorous fruits. A lower dissimilarity in dispersal modes, resulting from a higher dominance of endozoochory, occurred in terra-firme forests (excluding podzols) compared to flooded forests. Main conclusions: The disperser-availability hypothesis was well supported for abiotic dispersal modes (anemochory and hydrochory). The availability of resources for constructing zoochorous fruits seems an unlikely explanation for the distribution of dispersal modes in Amazonia. The association between frugivores and the proportional abundance of zoochory requires further research, as tree recruitment not only depends on dispersal vectors but also on conditions that favour or limit seedling recruitment across forest types

Geography and ecology shape the phylogenetic composition of Amazonian tree communities

AimAmazonia hosts more tree species from numerous evolutionary lineages, both young and ancient, than any other biogeographic region. Previous studies have shown that tree lineages colonized multiple edaphic environments and dispersed widely across Amazonia, leading to a hypothesis, which we test, that lineages should not be strongly associated with either geographic regions or edaphic forest types.LocationAmazonia.TaxonAngiosperms (Magnoliids; Monocots; Eudicots).MethodsData for the abundance of 5082 tree species in 1989 plots were combined with a mega-phylogeny. We applied evolutionary ordination to assess how phylogenetic composition varies across Amazonia. We used variation partitioning and Moran's eigenvector maps (MEM) to test and quantify the separate and joint contributions of spatial and environmental variables to explain the phylogenetic composition of plots. We tested the indicator value of lineages for geographic regions and edaphic forest types and mapped associations onto the phylogeny.ResultsIn the terra firme and várzea forest types, the phylogenetic composition varies by geographic region, but the igapó and white-sand forest types retain a unique evolutionary signature regardless of region. Overall, we find that soil chemistry, climate and topography explain 24% of the variation in phylogenetic composition, with 79% of that variation being spatially structured (R2 = 19% overall for combined spatial/environmental effects). The phylogenetic composition also shows substantial spatial patterns not related to the environmental variables we quantified (R2 = 28%). A greater number of lineages were significant indicators of geographic regions than forest types.Main ConclusionNumerous tree lineages, including some ancient ones (>66 Ma), show strong associations with geographic regions and edaphic forest types of Amazonia. This shows that specialization in specific edaphic environments has played a long-standing role in the evolutionary assembly of Amazonian forests. Furthermore, many lineages, even those that have dispersed across Amazonia, dominate within a specific region, likely because of phylogenetically conserved niches for environmental conditions that are prevalent within regions

Geography and ecology shape the phylogenetic composition of Amazonian tree communities

Aim: Amazonia hosts more tree species from numerous evolutionary lineages, both young and ancient, than any other biogeographic region. Previous studies have shown that tree lineages colonized multiple edaphic environments and dispersed widely across Amazonia, leading to a hypothesis, which we test, that lineages should not be strongly associated with either geographic regions or edaphic forest types. Location: Amazonia. Taxon: Angiosperms (Magnoliids; Monocots; Eudicots). Methods: Data for the abundance of 5082 tree species in 1989 plots were combined with a mega-phylogeny. We applied evolutionary ordination to assess how phylogenetic composition varies across Amazonia. We used variation partitioning and Moran\u27s eigenvector maps (MEM) to test and quantify the separate and joint contributions of spatial and environmental variables to explain the phylogenetic composition of plots. We tested the indicator value of lineages for geographic regions and edaphic forest types and mapped associations onto the phylogeny. Results: In the terra firme and várzea forest types, the phylogenetic composition varies by geographic region, but the igapó and white-sand forest types retain a unique evolutionary signature regardless of region. Overall, we find that soil chemistry, climate and topography explain 24% of the variation in phylogenetic composition, with 79% of that variation being spatially structured (R$^{2}$ = 19% overall for combined spatial/environmental effects). The phylogenetic composition also shows substantial spatial patterns not related to the environmental variables we quantified (R$^{2}$ = 28%). A greater number of lineages were significant indicators of geographic regions than forest types. Main Conclusion: Numerous tree lineages, including some ancient ones (>66 Ma), show strong associations with geographic regions and edaphic forest types of Amazonia. This shows that specialization in specific edaphic environments has played a long-standing role in the evolutionary assembly of Amazonian forests. Furthermore, many lineages, even those that have dispersed across Amazonia, dominate within a specific region, likely because of phylogenetically conserved niches for environmental conditions that are prevalent within regions

Mapping density, diversity and species-richness of the Amazon tree flora

Using 2.046 botanically-inventoried tree plots across the largest tropical forest on Earth, we mapped tree species-diversity and tree species-richness at 0.1-degree resolution, and investigated drivers for diversity and richness. Using only location, stratified by forest type, as predictor, our spatial model, to the best of our knowledge, provides the most accurate map of tree diversity in Amazonia to date, explaining approximately 70% of the tree diversity and species-richness. Large soil-forest combinations determine a significant percentage of the variation in tree species-richness and tree alpha-diversity in Amazonian forest-plots. We suggest that the size and fragmentation of these systems drive their large-scale diversity patterns and hence local diversity. A model not using location but cumulative water deficit, tree density, and temperature seasonality explains 47% of the tree species-richness in the terra-firme forest in Amazonia. Over large areas across Amazonia, residuals of this relationship are small and poorly spatially structured, suggesting that much of the residual variation may be local. The Guyana Shield area has consistently negative residuals, showing that this area has lower tree species-richness than expected by our models. We provide extensive plot meta-data, including tree density, tree alpha-diversity and tree species-richness results and gridded maps at 0.1-degree resolution