A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation for water waves on finite depth with constant vorticity

A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation for the envelope of two dimensional surface water waves on finite depth with non zero constant vorticity is derived, and the influence of this constant vorticity on the well known stability properties of weakly nonlinear wave packets is studied. It is demonstrated that vorticity modifies significantly the modulational instability properties of weakly nonlinear plane waves, namely the growth rate and bandwidth. At third order we have shown the importance of the coupling between the mean flow induced by the modulation and the vorticity. Furthermore, it is shown that these plane wave solutions may be linearly stable to modulational instability for an opposite shear current independently of the dimensionless parameter kh, where k and h are the carrier wavenumber and depth respectively

Head-on collision of two solitary waves and residual falling jet formation

The head-on collision of two equal and two unequal steep solitary waves is investigated numerically. The former case is equivalent to the reflection of one solitary wave by a vertical wall when viscosity is neglected. We have performed a series of numerical simulations based on a Boundary Integral Equation Method (BIEM) on finite depth to investigate during the collision the maximum runup, phase shift, wall residence time and acceleration field for arbitrary values of the non-linearity parameter a/h, where a is the amplitude of initial solitary waves and h the constant water depth. The initial solitary waves are calculated numerically from the fully nonlinear equations. The present work extends previous results on the runup and wall residence time calculation to the collision of very steep counter propagating solitary waves. Furthermore, a new phenomenon corresponding to the occurrence of a residual jet is found for wave amplitudes larger than a threshold value

Experiments on wind-perturbed rogue wave hydrodynamics using the Peregrine breather model

International audienceBeing considered as a prototype for description of oceanic rogue waves (RWs), the Peregrine breather solution of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLS) has been recently observed and intensely investigated experimentally in particular within the context of water waves. Here, we report the experimental results showing the evolution of the Peregrine solution in the presence of wind forcing in the direction of wave propagation. The results show the persistence of the breather evolution dynamics even in the presence of strong wind and chaotic wave eld generated by it. Furthermore, we have shown that characteristic spectrum of the Peregrine breather persists even at the highest values of the generated wind velocities thus making it a viable characteristic for prediction of rogue waves

Shallow water waves generated by subaerial solid landslides

Subaerial landslides are common events, which may generate very large water waves. The numerical modelling and simulation of these events are thus of primary interest for forecasting and mitigation of tsunami disasters. In this paper, we aim at describing these extreme events using a simplified shallow water model to derive relevant scaling laws. To cope with the problem, two different numerical codes are employed: one, SPHysics, is based on a Lagrangian meshless approach to accurately describe the impact stage whereas the other, Gerris, based on a two-phase finite-volume method is used to study the propagation of the wave. To validate Gerris for this very particular problem, two numerical cases of the literature are reproduced: a vertical sinking box and a 2-D wedge sliding down a slope. Then, to get insights into the problem of subaerial landslide-generated tsunamis and to further validate the codes for this case of landslides, a series of experiments is conducted in a water wave tank and successfully compared with the results of both codes. Based on a simplified approach, we derive different scaling laws in excellent agreement with the experiments and numerical simulation

Soliton spectra of random water waves in shallow basins

Interpretation of random wave field on a shallow water in terms of Fourier spectra is not adequate, when wave amplitudes are not infinitesimally small. A nonlinearity of wave fields leads to the harmonic interactions and random variation of Fourier spectra. As has been shown by Osborne and his co-authors, a more adequate analysis can be performed in terms of nonlinear modes representing cnoidal waves; a spectrum of such modes remains unchanged even in the process of nonlinear mode interactions. Here we show that there is an alternative and more simple analysis of random wave fields on shallow water, which can be presented in terms of interacting Korteweg - de Vries solitons. The data processing of random wave field is developed on the basis of inverse scattering method. The soliton component obscured in a random wave field is determined and a corresponding distribution function of number of solitons on their amplitudes is constructed. The approach developed is illustrated by means of artificially generated quasi-random wave field and applied to the real data interpretation of wind waves generated in the laboratory wind tank.Comment: 23 pages, 15 figure

Transverse instability of gravity–capillary solitary waves on deep water in the presence of constant vorticity

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A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation for gravity-capillary water waves on arbitrary depth with constant vorticity: Part I

A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation for the envelope of two-dimensional gravity-capillary waves propagating at the free surface of a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity is derived. In this paper we extend to gravity-capillary wave trains the results of \citet{thomas2012pof} and complete the stability analysis and stability diagram of \citet{Djordjevic1977} in the presence of vorticity. Vorticity effect on the modulational instability of weakly nonlinear gravity-capillary wave packets is investigated. It is shown that the vorticity modifies significantly the modulational instability of gravity-capillary wave trains, namely the growth rate and instability bandwidth. It is found that the rate of growth of modulational instability of short gravity waves influenced by surface tension behaves like pure gravity waves: (i) in infinite depth, the growth rate is reduced in the presence of positive vorticity and amplified in the presence of negative vorticity, (ii) in finite depth, it is reduced when the vorticity is positive and amplified and finally reduced when the vorticity is negative. The combined effect of vorticity and surface tension is to increase the rate of growth of modulational instability of short gravity waves influenced by surface tension, namely when the vorticity is negative. The rate of growth of modulational instability of capillary waves is amplified by negative vorticity and attenuated by positive vorticity. Stability diagrams are plotted and it is shown that they are significantly modified by the introduction of the vorticity

Transverse instability of gravity–capillary solitary waves on deep water in the presence of constant vorticity

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