Head-on collision of two solitary waves and residual falling jet formation

The head-on collision of two equal and two unequal steep solitary waves is investigated numerically. The former case is equivalent to the reflection of one solitary wave by a vertical wall when viscosity is neglected. We have performed a series of numerical simulations based on a Boundary Integral Equation Method (BIEM) on finite depth to investigate during the collision the maximum runup, phase shift, wall residence time and acceleration field for arbitrary values of the non-linearity parameter a/h, where a is the amplitude of initial solitary waves and h the constant water depth. The initial solitary waves are calculated numerically from the fully nonlinear equations. The present work extends previous results on the runup and wall residence time calculation to the collision of very steep counter propagating solitary waves. Furthermore, a new phenomenon corresponding to the occurrence of a residual jet is found for wave amplitudes larger than a threshold value

Experiments on wind-perturbed rogue wave hydrodynamics using the Peregrine breather model

International audienceBeing considered as a prototype for description of oceanic rogue waves (RWs), the Peregrine breather solution of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLS) has been recently observed and intensely investigated experimentally in particular within the context of water waves. Here, we report the experimental results showing the evolution of the Peregrine solution in the presence of wind forcing in the direction of wave propagation. The results show the persistence of the breather evolution dynamics even in the presence of strong wind and chaotic wave eld generated by it. Furthermore, we have shown that characteristic spectrum of the Peregrine breather persists even at the highest values of the generated wind velocities thus making it a viable characteristic for prediction of rogue waves

Nonlinear mechanism of tsunami wave generation by atmospheric disturbances

International audienceThe problem of tsunami wave generation by variable meteo-conditions is discussed. The simplified linear and nonlinear shallow water models are derived, and their analytical solutions for a basin of constant depth are discussed. The shallow-water model describes well the properties of the generated tsunami waves for all regimes, except the resonance case. The nonlinear-dispersive model based on the forced Korteweg-de Vries equation is developed to describe the resonant mechanism of the tsunami wave generation by the atmospheric disturbances moving with near-critical speed (long wave speed). Some analytical solutions of the nonlinear dispersive model are obtained. They illustrate the different regimes of soliton generation and the focusing of frequency modulated wave packets

Shallow water waves generated by subaerial solid landslides

Subaerial landslides are common events, which may generate very large water waves. The numerical modelling and simulation of these events are thus of primary interest for forecasting and mitigation of tsunami disasters. In this paper, we aim at describing these extreme events using a simplified shallow water model to derive relevant scaling laws. To cope with the problem, two different numerical codes are employed: one, SPHysics, is based on a Lagrangian meshless approach to accurately describe the impact stage whereas the other, Gerris, based on a two-phase finite-volume method is used to study the propagation of the wave. To validate Gerris for this very particular problem, two numerical cases of the literature are reproduced: a vertical sinking box and a 2-D wedge sliding down a slope. Then, to get insights into the problem of subaerial landslide-generated tsunamis and to further validate the codes for this case of landslides, a series of experiments is conducted in a water wave tank and successfully compared with the results of both codes. Based on a simplified approach, we derive different scaling laws in excellent agreement with the experiments and numerical simulation

Freak waves in 2005

International audienceInformation about freak wave events in the ocean reported by mass media and derived from personal observations in 2005 is collected and analysed. Nine cases are selected as true freak wave events from a total number of 27 mentioned. Besides rogue waves in the open sea, the problem of freak wave events on the shore is emphasized. These accidents are related to unexpected wave impact upon the coast and shore constructions or to sudden intensive flooding of the coast. Of the nine events considered reliable here, three events correspond to open-sea cases, while the six others occurred nearshore

Spectral up- and downshifting of Akhmediev breathers under wind forcing

We experimentally and numerically investigate the effect of wind forcing on the spectral dynamics of Akhmediev breathers, a wave-type known to model the modulation instability. We develop the wind model to the same order in steepness as the higher order modifcation of the nonlinear Schroedinger equation, also referred to as the Dysthe equation. This results in an asymmetric wind term in the higher order, in addition to the leading order wind forcing term. The derived model is in good agreement with laboratory experiments within the range of the facility's length. We show that the leading order forcing term amplifies all frequencies equally and therefore induces only a broadening of the spectrum while the asymmetric higher order term in the model enhances higher frequencies more than lower ones. Thus, the latter term induces a permanent upshift of the spectral mean. On the other hand, in contrast to the direct effect of wind forcing, wind can indirectly lead to frequency downshifts, due to dissipative effects such as wave breaking, or through amplification of the intrinsic spectral asymmetry of the Dysthe equation. Furthermore, the definitions of the up- and downshift in terms of peak- and mean frequencies, that are critical to relate our work to previous results, are highlighted and discussed.Comment: 30 pages, 11 figure

Financial rogue waves

The financial rogue waves are reported analytically in the nonlinear option pricing model due to Ivancevic, which is nonlinear wave alternative of the Black-Scholes model. These solutions may be used to describe the possible physical mechanisms for rogue wave phenomenon in financial markets and related fields.Comment: 4 papges, 2 figures, Final version accepted in Commun. Theor. Phys., 201

KP solitons in shallow water

The main purpose of the paper is to provide a survey of our recent studies on soliton solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation. The classification is based on the far-field patterns of the solutions which consist of a finite number of line-solitons. Each soliton solution is then defined by a point of the totally non-negative Grassmann variety which can be parametrized by a unique derangement of the symmetric group of permutations. Our study also includes certain numerical stability problems of those soliton solutions. Numerical simulations of the initial value problems indicate that certain class of initial waves asymptotically approach to these exact solutions of the KP equation. We then discuss an application of our theory to the Mach reflection problem in shallow water. This problem describes the resonant interaction of solitary waves appearing in the reflection of an obliquely incident wave onto a vertical wall, and it predicts an extra-ordinary four-fold amplification of the wave at the wall. There are several numerical studies confirming the prediction, but all indicate disagreements with the KP theory. Contrary to those previous numerical studies, we find that the KP theory actually provides an excellent model to describe the Mach reflection phenomena when the higher order corrections are included to the quasi-two dimensional approximation. We also present laboratory experiments of the Mach reflection recently carried out by Yeh and his colleagues, and show how precisely the KP theory predicts this wave behavior.Comment: 50 pages, 25 figure