El rol de la inteligencia emocional en el rendimiento en escalada

Purpose: To investigate the association between emotional intelligence (EI) and self-reported climbing ability. Methods: Redpoint climbing ability was used as an indicator of rock climbing performance and EI were assessed as ability and a trait using two different questionnaires MSCEIT and SSEIT in forty-three climbers (15 females and 28 males). ANOVA was used to analyse differences between male and female and advanced and elite climbers in EI parameters in both questionnaires. The analyses were also adjusted by age using ANCOVA. Results: Linear regression analysis revealed that there are no differences between trait EI and climbing performance, but we found the component `Facilitation Thought’ of EI measured as ability was inversely associated with the highest red-point ability. Conclusion: Our results suggest that elite climbers do not use their emotions to facilitate thinking as much as expert climbers, which is positively related to performance. Future researches should direct to investigate how elite climbers manage their emotions.Objetivo: Investigar la asociación entre la inteligencia emocional (IE) y el nivel de escalada autoinformada. Método: Se usó el nivel de escalada ensayado como un indicador del rendimiento de la escalada en roca y se evaluó en cuarenta y tres escaladores (15 mujeres y 28 hombres) la IE como habilidad tanto como rasgo, utilizando dos cuestionarios diferentes MSCEIT y SSEIT. Se utilizó un ANOVA para analizar las diferencias entre los escaladores masculinos y femeninos y avanzados y élite en los parámetros de IE en ambos cuestionarios. Los análisis también se ajustaron por edad utilizando un ANCOVA. Resultados: El análisis de regresión lineal reveló que no hay diferencias entre el rasgo IE y el rendimiento en escalada, pero encontramos que el componente´facilitación del pensamiento´ de IE como habilidad estaba inversamente asociado con un mayor nivel de escalada ensayada. Conclusión: Nuestros resultados sugieren que los escaladores de élite no usan sus emociones para facilitar el pensamiento, en relación con los escaladores expertos, lo que se relaciona positivamente con el rendimiento. Las investigaciones futuras deben dirigirse a investigar cómo los escaladores de élite manejan sus emocione

Body adiposity index and incident hypertension: The Aerobics Center Longitudinal Study

Background and aim The body adiposity index (BAI) has been recently proposed as a new method to estimate the percentage of body fat. The association between BAI and hypertension risk has not been investigated yet. The aim of our study was to evaluate the ability of BAI to predict hypertension in males and females compared with traditional body adiposity measures. Methods and results The present follow-up analysis comprised 10,309 individuals (2259 females) free of hypertension from the Aerobics Center Longitudinal Study, who completed a baseline examination between 1988 and 2003. Body adiposity measures included BAI, body mass index (BMI), waist circumference, hip circumference, percentage of body fat and waist to hip ratio (WHR). Incident hypertension was ascertained from responses to mail-back surveys between 1990 and 2004. During an average of 9.1 years of follow-up, 872 subjects (107 females) became hypertensive. Hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (95% CI) showed that males in the highest categories of all body adiposity measures showed a higher incident risk of hypertension (HRs ranged from 1.37 to 2.09). Females showed a higher incident risk of hypertension only in the highest categories of BAI, BMI and WHR (HRs ranged from 1.84 to 3.36). Conclusion Our results suggest that in order to predict incident hypertension BAI could be considered as an alternative to traditional body adiposity measures.The authors thank the Cooper Clinic physicians and technicians for collecting the data, and staff at the Cooper Institute for data entry and data management. This work was supported by “Conselleria de Educación de la Generalitat Valenciana” [BEST/2012/257]; Spanish Ministry of Education [EX-2010-1008]; National Institutes of Health [AG06945, HL62508, R21DK088195] and in part by an unrestricted research grant from The Coca-Cola Company. The content is solely the responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily represent the official views of the funding institutions

Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance

Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance.N/

Periodismo segoviano

Copia digital. Valladolid : Junta de Castilla y León. Consejería de Cultura y Turismo, 2009-201

From circular paths to elliptic orbits: A geometric approach to Kepler's motion

The hodograph, i.e. the path traced by a body in velocity space, was introduced by Hamilton in 1846 as an alternative for studying certain dynamical problems. The hodograph of the Kepler problem was then investigated and shown to be a circle, it was next used to investigate some other properties of the motion. We here propose a new method for tracing the hodograph and the corresponding configuration space orbit in Kepler's problem starting from the initial conditions given and trying to use no more than the methods of synthetic geometry in a sort of Newtonian approach. All of our geometric constructions require straight edge and compass only.Comment: 9 pages, 4 figure

Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers

Purpose. This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. Methods. Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results. A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0.112) for TSI x sex. However, there was a significant the main effect (p =0.027) handedness (dominant vs. non-dominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% quicker (t½ recovery mean difference = 1.12 sec, 95% CI 0.13 to 2.10 sec) compared to the non-dominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-month on-sight climbing ability or sex (p =0.839, p =0.683). Conclusions. Significant intra-individual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics within the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature such as an increase in capillary density and an enhanced improvement in capillary filtration

Treatment with implants in patients with diabetes. A 7-year comparative study

Introducción. La implantología oral puede constituir una modalidad terapéutica en el tratamiento prostodóncico de los pacientes con compromiso médico. El estudio muestra la evaluación del tratamiento con implantes en pacientes con diabetes comparados con pacientes sin diabetes. Métodos. 48 pacientes edéntulos totales (24 pacientes diabéticos y 24 no diabéticos) fueron tratados con 96 implan- tes con superficie arenada y grabada Galimplant ® en la mandíbula para su rehabilitación prostodóncica con sobre- dentaduras mandibulares. 2 implantes fueron insertados en cada paciente. Los implantes fueron cargados funcional- mente tras un periodo de tiempo de 6 semanas con retenedores de fricción. Los hallazgos clínicos (implantológicos y prostodóncicos) se han seguido durante 7 años. Resultados. Los resultados indican una supervivencia de los implantes del 95,8%. Durante el periodo de seguimeinto clínico se perdieron 4 implantes (dos implantes en cada grupo). La pérdida de hueso marginal media fué de 0,7 mm en ambos grupos. El 100% de los pacientes fueron tratados mediante una sobredentadura implantorretenida con anclajes de fricción. En 14 pacientes se realizaron cambios en los componentes plásticos de los ataches. El seguimiento clínico medio fue de 82,5 meses (60-102 meses). Conclusiones. Los resultados del presente estudio indican que el tratamiento con implantes dentales en pacientes diabéticos es una terapéutica exitosa sin diferencias entre los pacientes diabéticos y no diabéticos. PALABRAS CLAVE: Implantes dentales, pacientes geriátricos, diabetes mellitus, sobredentaduras, oseo- integración, implantología oral.Introduction. Implant dentistry can to constitute a therapeutic modality in the prosthodontic treatment of medically compromised patients. This study reports the evaluation of treatment with implants in patients with diabetes compared with patients without diabetes. Methods. 48 edentulous patients (24 diabetic patients and 24 non-diabetic patients) were treated with 96 Galimplant ® sand-blasted and acid-etched surface implants for prosthodontic rehabilitation with mandibular overdentures. Two implants were inserted in each patient. Implants were loaded after a healing free-loading period between 6 weeks with locator attaches. Clinical findings (implant and prosthodontics) were followed during at 7 years. Results. Clinical results indicate a survival rate of implants of 95.8% in both groups. Four implant was lost during the follow-up period (two implants in each group). Media marginal bone loss was 0.7 mm in both groups. 100% of patients were treated with overdentures retained with 2 implants with locator attaches. Changes in plastic components of attaches were reported in 14 patients. The media follow-up was of 82.5 months (60-102 months). Conclusions. Clinical results of this study indicate that treatment with dental implants in diabetic patients is a successful implant treatment without differences with nondiabetic patients