Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions: From microstructure to skin application

Abstract Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed.Résumé Des parfums sont ajoutés dans la plupart des émulsions dermocosmétiques. L'odeur d'un produit est en effet un facteur déterminant lors du choix par les consommateurs, et elle peut même contribuer à la perception de ses performances. Le parfum est un mélange complexe de substances chimiques odorantes à différentes concentrations. Lorsqu'elles sont incorporées dans une formule, les molécules odorantes se répartissent entre les phases de l'émulsion en fonction de leurs propriétés physicochimiques, ce qui peut avoir un impact sur la structure, la stabilité, la texture et l'odeur du produit fini. D'autre part, il est bien connu dans l'industrie alimentaire que la composition et la structure des matrices alimentaires influencent la libération des molécules aromatiques. Les émulsions dermocosmétiques parfumées ont été moins étudiées dans la littérature, mais les résultats obtenus dans le domaine alimentaire peuvent être utiles pour comprendre les phénomènes mis en jeu dans ces systèmes. En effet, la structure et la composition des deux types d'émulsions, et la nature des composés aromatiques et odorants présentent de nombreuses caractéristiques communes. Cette revue vise à donner une analyse de la littérature traitant des interactions entre les parfums et les émulsions dermocosmétiques. Dans un premier temps, les effets des parfums sur la microstructure, la stabilité et la texture des émulsions sont présentés et discutés. Puis, les effets de la composition et de la structure de l'émulsion sur la libération des molécules parfumantes sont abordés. Enfin, les interactions entre la peau et les émulsions parfumées sont renseignées

Pathways between Risk/Protective Factors and Maternal Postnatal Depressive Symptoms: The ELFE Cohort

International audienceObjective: The risk factors for postnatal depressive symptoms (PNDS) are numerous, but little is known about the protective factors or the interactions between different exposures. The present study explored the pathways between maternal, infant and parenthood vulnerabilities or risk/protective factors and PNDS at 2 months postpartum (PP) in a large sample of women from the general population. Methods: We used data from the French ELFE cohort, a nationally representative cohort of children followed-up from birth. The available information about vulnerabilities or risk/protective factors for PNDS was collected during the maternity ward stay (mother or medical records) and at 2 months PP (mother by phone). PNDS were evaluated with the Edinburgh Postnatal Depression Scale (EPDS) at 2 months. A measurement model was built based on the psychosocial model for PNDS of Milgrom and colleagues using exploratory factor analysis. The Structural Equation Model was used to investigate the pathways between vulnerability, risk/protective factors and PNDS at 2 months PP. Results: In the study sample (n = 11,583), a lack of a partner’s perceived antenatal emotional support, consultation with a mental health specialist before pregnancy, family financial difficulties, prenatal psychological distress and a difficult pregnancy experience were directly associated with the severity of maternal PNDS at 2 months PP, as well as lack of perceived postnatal support. Family financial difficulties and consultation with a mental health specialist before pregnancy were also indirectly associated with the intensity of PNDS through a lack of perceived antenatal emotional support, a difficult pregnancy experience, prenatal psychological distress and a lack of perceived postnatal support. Regarding infant and parenthood characteristics, infant self-regulation difficulties, maternal difficulty in understanding infant crying and infant hospitalisation were directly associated with PNDS severity at 2 months PP, while maternal difficulty in understanding an infant’s cries was also indirectly associated with infant self-regulation difficulties. Conclusions: Perinatal professional support should begin antenatally and target the couple’s prenatal functioning, with particular attention to women presenting a history of psychiatric disorders, especially those of low socioeconomic status. After delivery, addressing infant and parenthood characteristics is also recommended

Women and health professionals’ perspectives on a conditional cash transfer programme to improve pregnancy follow-up: a qualitative analysis of the NAITRE randomised controlled study

Objectives Women of low socioeconomic status have been described as having suboptimal prenatal care, which in turn has been associated with poor pregnancy outcomes. Many types of conditional cash transfer (CCT) programmes have been developed, including programmes to improve prenatal care or smoking cessation during pregnancy, and their effects demonstrated. However, ethical critiques have included paternalism and lack of informed choice. Our objective was to determine if women and healthcare professionals (HPs) shared these concerns.Design Prospective qualitative research.Setting We included economically disadvantaged women, as defined by health insurance data, who participated in the French NAITRE randomised trial assessing a CCT programme during prenatal follow-up to improve pregnancy outcomes. The HP worked in some maternities participating in this trial.Participants 26 women, 14 who received CCT and 12 who did not, mostly unemployed (20/26), and - 7 HPs.Interventions We conducted a multicentre cross-sectional qualitative study among women and HPs who participated in the NAITRE Study to assess their views on CCT. The women were interviewed after childbirth.Results Women did not perceive CCT negatively. They did not mention feeling stigmatised. They described CCT as a significant source of aid for women with limited financial resources. HP described the CCT in less positive terms, for example, expressing concern about discussing cash transfer at their first medical consultation with women. Though they emphasised ethical concerns about the basis of the trial, they recognised the importance of evaluating CCT.Conclusions In France, a high-income country where prenatal follow-up is free, HPs were concerned that the CCT programme would change their relationship with patients and wondered if it was the best use of funding. However, women who received a cash incentive said they did not feel stigmatised and indicated that these payments helped them prepare for their baby’s birth.Trial registration number NCT0240285