Fashion Digital Transformation: Innovating Business Models toward Circular Economy and Sustainability

The fashion industry is at a stage of profound transformation of its operating paradigm. Because of their stakeholders’ pressure, companies have begun to pursue strategic solutions that include sustainability as a guiding principle. Such strategies push for effective organizational solutions and production models that take into consideration the conservation of the planet’s resources, respect for people, and the sustainability of their profits. In this context, the fashion industry is now recognizing the circular economy (CE) as the primary BM to address sustainability-related industry issues. The authors have adopted a specific technological-driven perspective that attempts to analyze today’s context and map digitally driven practices in European fashion companies. These practices are emerging to support fashion organizations so that they can focus their sustainability agendas and better implement circular BMs. This perspective is consistent with the current fashion context, where digital transformation is recognized as an asset that could transform the industry into a more sustainable business. This proposed objective is realized through an iterative process of modeling data. The BMIs identified here are grouped according to Bocken’s eight archetypes: maximize material and energy efficiency; create value from ‘waste’; substitute with renewables and natural processes; deliver functionality rather than ownership; adopt a stewardship role; encourage sufficiency; re-purpose the business for society/the environment and develop scale-up solutions. They guide the authors in modeling mechanisms and solutions that help build business innovations that work to ensure circularity. Analyzing the current best practices, this article introduces a taxonomy that highlights current approaches that lead to incremental changes toward CE through digital solutions

Designing Culture-intensive Artefacts. How the Design Process Interprets Craft Reiteration to Build Future Diversities.

The paper approaches the subject of traditional craft and local know-how from the perspective of design practice. The specific focus is on those fields of design that produce the so-called culture-intensive goods (Hesmondhalgh, 2002; Bovone and Mora, 2003), such as fashion, home goods and food. They are the result of recombination by design of a specific cultural capital into new shapes and meanings. Thanks to "Made in Italy" best practices context selected in those fields, the paper will discuss how design shapes future artefacts rooted in the reinterpretation of the past. On one hand, accessing craft culture and its reiterative attitude of transmission of identity and tradition along times. On the other hand, recombining craft processes into reconfigured practice, encoding different meanings into new narratives

Reverse Metadesign: Pedagogy And Learning Tools For Teaching The Fashion Collection Design Process Online

[EN] The present article discusses the experience of redesigning the pedagogy and learning tools of a pillar course at the School of Design of Politecnico di Milano, the Metadesign studio course. Metadesign is a design methodology that leads to the concept definition of a new product or service, through a research process that synthesizes design goals, technological and productive constraints, market context and consumption trends for a consumers’ group of reference. It represents a unique methodological approach characterizing the design education as it provides a consolidated research practice able to support the design process. The course structure foresees the reconstruction in phases and successive elaborations of all the elements of context that come into relation with the object of the design process (product, space, service, communication artifact…) influencing its characteristics and creating the “abacus” of elements that make its development possible. In line with the ever-increasing need to reshape the whole education system through the paradigms of digital transformation, and due the acceleration the COVID-19 emergency pushed to the request for on-distance courses, the article presents a renewed reverse course structure, highlighting strengths and opportunities for further improvements that represent a solid base for innovating a fashion design education.Casciani, D.; Colombi, C.; Vacca, F. (2021). Reverse Metadesign: Pedagogy And Learning Tools For Teaching The Fashion Collection Design Process Online. En 7th International Conference on Higher Education Advances (HEAd'21). Editorial Universitat Politècnica de València. 75-83. https://doi.org/10.4995/HEAd21.2021.13181OCS758

A non local model for cell migration in response to mechanical stimuli

Cell migration is one of the most studied phenomena in biology since it plays a fundamental role in many physiological and pathological processes such as morphogenesis, wound healing and tumorigenesis. In recent years, researchers have performed experiments showing that cells can migrate in response to mechanical stimuli of the substrate they adhere to. Motion toward regions of the substrate with higher stiffness is called durotaxis, while motion guided by the stress or the deformation of the substrate itself is called tensotaxis. Unlike chemotaxis (i.e. the motion in response to a chemical stimulus), these migratory processes are not yet fully understood from a biological point of view. In this respect, we present a mathematical model of single-cell migration in response to mechanical stimuli, in order to simulate these two processes. Specifically, the cell moves by changing its direction of polarization and its motility according to material properties of the substrate (e.g., stiffness) or in response to proper scalar measures of the substrate strain or stress. The equations of motion of the cell are non-local integro-differential equations, with the addition of a stochastic term to account for random Brownian motion. The mechanical stimulus to be integrated in the equations of motion is defined according to experimental measurements found in literature, in the case of durotaxis. Conversely, in the case of tensotaxis, substrate strain and stress are given by the solution of the mechanical problem, assuming that the extracellular matrix behaves as a hyperelastic Yeoh's solid. In both cases, the proposed model is validated through numerical simulations that qualitatively reproduce different experimental scenarios

Expanding the clinical and mutational spectrum of B4GALT7-spondylodysplastic Ehlers-Danlos syndrome

Spondylodysplastic EDS (spEDS) is a rare connective tissue disorder that groups the phenotypes caused by biallelic B4GALT7, B3GALT6, and SLC39A13 mutations. In the 2017 EDS nosology, minimal criteria (general and gene-specific) for a clinical suspicion of spEDS have been proposed, but molecular analysis is required to reach a definite diagnosis. The majority of spEDS patients presented with short stature, skin hyperextensibility, facial dysmorphisms, peculiar radiological findings, muscle hypotonia and joint laxity and/or its complications. To date only 7 patients with β4GALT7-deficiency (spEDS-B4GALT7) have been described and their clinical data suggested that, in addition to short stature and muscle hypotonia, radioulnar synostosis, hypermetropia, and delayed cognitive development might be a hallmark of this specific type of spEDS. Additional 22 patients affected with an overlapping phenotype, i.e., Larsen of Reunion Island syndrome, all carrying a homozygous B4GALT7 mutation, are also recognized. Herein, we report on a 30-year-old Moroccan woman who fitted the minimal criteria to suspect spEDS, but lacked radioulnar synostosis and intellectual disability and presented with neurosensorial hearing loss and limb edema of lymphatic origin. Sanger sequencing of B4GALT7 was performed since the evaluation of the spEDS gene-specific minor criteria suggested this specific subtype. Mutational screening revealed the homozygous c.829G>T, p.Glu277* pathogenetic variant leading to aberrant splicing. Our findings expand both the clinical and mutational spectrum of this ultrarare connective tissue disorder. The comparison of the patient's features with those of the other spEDS and Larsen of Reunion Island syndrome patients reported up to now offers future perspectives for spEDS nosology and clinical research in this field

Recalibrating fashion education in light of emerging fashion-tech

“The industry is quite old fashioned so to say, and with every step in the value chain there is an opportunity to leverage technology and digital to improve processes. So that’s something we understand as fashion tech, that we can use technology and digital in every step of our value chain from design to selling, B2B and end consumer, and make that more efficient and better and sustainable.” (PVH, 29 June 2020) “Covid-19 will completely re-shape and re-focus the Fashion and as consequence the Fashion-Tech market, curricula and employability profiles” – Eng.D. Enrico Cozzoni (PhD), (Grado Zero June 2020). In light of COVID-19, devastating impacts to the fashion industry have forced businesses to accelerate, change and evaluate options to transform and respond to many challenges and difficulties. It is acknowledged that fashion-tech is operating in the context of a rapidly changing landscape for both the world, and fashion business and jobs. The integration between fashion and tech sectors has enabled a systemic shift in the fashion industry towards new business models, revenue streams, and improved sustainability and circularity. Fashion-tech when integrated across the full breadth of the supply chain leverages data is creating smarter and more sustainable products and services. In larger companies, fashion-tech incubators and start-ups are leading digital processes and upskilling, influencing and infiltrating within the business. The fashion designer having 3D design skills has become essential for current and future fashion-tech jobs. Finally, the focus on technical innovations for textiles and product development is directly linked to sustainable production and consumption. This paper is presenting the first outcomes of FT Alliance, an Erasmus + 3-year academia-industries partnership (2020-2023) aimed to facilitate the exchange, flow of knowledge and co-creation within the Fashion-Tech sector and universities to boost students’ employability and innovation potential. The project consortium comprised twelve partners from six countries: 5 fashion, design and engineering Higher Education institutions, 2 large fashion and apparel enterprise, 5 SMEs representing the Fashion-Tech ecosystem and the different supply chain segment and 1 Research Technology Organisation. Grappling with the concerns and global impact on the health, safety and vulnerability of employees and job stability, HEI partners worked in collaboration with industry partners to codesign different focus groups to discuss the future of Fashion-Tech. This paper shares research findings of these focus groups, outlining an integrated and embedded approach for interactions of HEIs with industry, guidelines on new pedagogical approaches and outlining future job roles

Recalibrating Fashion Education in Light of Emerging Fashion Tech

“The industry is quite old fashioned so to say, and with every step in the value chain there is an opportunity to leverage technology and digital to improve processes. So that's something we understand as fashion tech, that we can use technology and digital in every step of our value chain from design to selling, B2B and end consumer, and make that more efficient and better and sustainable.” (PVH, 29 June 2020) “Covid-19 will completely re-shape and re-focus the Fashion and as consequence the Fashion-Tech market, curricula and employability profiles” – Eng.D. Enrico Cozzoni (PhD), (Grado Zero June 2020). In light of COVID-19, devastating impacts to the fashion industry have forced businesses to accelerate, change and evaluate options to transform and respond to many challenges and difficulties. It is acknowledged that fashion-tech is operating in the context of a rapidly changing landscape for both the world, and fashion business and jobs. The integration between fashion and tech sectors has enabled a systemic shift in the fashion industry towards new business models, revenue streams, and improved sustainability and circularity. Fashion-tech when integrated across the full breadth of the supply chain leverages data is creating smarter and more sustainable products and services. In larger companies, fashion-tech incubators and start-ups are leading digital processes and upskilling, influencing and infiltrating within the business. The fashion designer having 3D design skills has become essential for current and future fashion-tech jobs. Finally, the focus on technical innovations for textiles and product development is directly linked to sustainable production and consumption. This paper is presenting the first outcomes of FT Alliance, an Erasmus + 3-year academia-industries partnership (2020-2023) aimed to facilitate the exchange, flow of knowledge and co-creation within the Fashion-Tech sector and universities to boost students’ employability and innovation potential. The project consortium comprised twelve partners from six countries: 5 fashion, design and engineering Higher Education institutions, 2 large fashion and apparel enterprise, 5 SMEs representing the Fashion-Tech ecosystem and the different supply chain segment and 1 Research Technology Organisation. Grappling with the concerns and global impact on the health, safety and vulnerability of employees and job stability, HEI partners worked in collaboration with industry partners to co-design different focus groups to discuss the future of Fashion-Tech. This paper shares research findings of these focus groups, outlining an integrated and embedded approach for interactions of HEIs with industry, guidelines on new pedagogical approaches and outlining future job roles

Transcriptome-wide expression profiling in skin fibroblasts of patients with joint hypermobility syndrome/ehlers-danlos syndrome hypermobility type

Joint hypermobility syndrome/Ehlers-Danlos syndrome hypermobility type (JHS/EDS-HT), is likely the most common systemic heritable connective tissue disorder, and is mostly recognized by generalized joint hypermobility, joint instability complications, minor skin changes and a wide range of satellite features. JHS/EDS-HT is considered an autosomal dominant trait but is still without a defined molecular basis. The absence of (a) causative gene(s) for JHS/EDS-HT is likely attributable to marked genetic heterogeneity and/or interaction of multiple loci. In order to help in deciphering such a complex molecular background, we carried out a comprehensive immunofluorescence analysis and gene expression profiling in cultured skin fibroblasts from five women affected with JHS/EDS-HT. Protein study revealed disarray of several matrix structural components such as fibrillins, tenascins, elastin, collagens, fibronectin, and their integrin receptors. Transcriptome analysis indicated perturbation of different signaling cascades that are required for homeostatic regulation either during development or in adult tissues as well as altered expression of several genes involved in maintenance of extracellular matrix architecture and homeostasis (e.g., SPON2, TGM2, MMP16, GPC4, SULF1), cell-cell adhesion (e.g., CDH2, CHD10, PCDH9, CLDN11, FLG, DSP), immune/inflammatory/pain responses (e.g., CFD, AQP9, COLEC12, KCNQ5, PRLR), and essential for redox balance (e.g., ADH1C, AKR1C2, AKR1C3, MAOB, GSTM5). Our findings provide a picture of the gene expression profile and dysregulated pathways in JHS/EDS-HT skin fibroblasts that correlate well with the systemic phenotype of the patients

Small fiber neuropathy is a common feature of Ehlers-Danlos syndromes

To investigate the involvement of small nerve fibers in Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (EDS). Patients diagnosed with EDS underwent clinical, neurophysiologic, and skin biopsy assessment. We recorded sensory symptoms and signs and evaluated presence and severity of neuropathic pain according to the Douleur Neuropathique 4 (DN4) and ID Pain questionnaires and the Numeric Rating Scale (NRS). Sensory action potential amplitude and conduction velocity of sural nerve was recorded. Skin biopsy was performed at distal leg and intraepidermal nerve fiber density (IENFD) obtained and referred to published sex- and age-adjusted normative reference values. Our cohort included 20 adults with joint hypermobility syndrome/hypermobility EDS, 3 patients with vascular EDS, and 1 patient with classic EDS. All except one patient had neuropathic pain according to DN4 and ID Pain questionnaires and reported 7 or more symptoms at the Small Fiber Neuropathy Symptoms Inventory Questionnaire. Pain intensity was moderate (NRS ≥4 and <7) in 8 patients and severe (NRS ≥7) in 11 patients. Sural nerve conduction study was normal in all patients. All patients showed a decrease of IENFD consistent with the diagnosis of small fiber neuropathy (SFN), regardless of the EDS type. SFN is a common feature in adults with EDS. Skin biopsy could be considered an additional diagnostic tool to investigate pain manifestations in EDS