Coastal Ocean Forecasting: science foundation and user benefits

The advancement of Coastal Ocean Forecasting Systems (COFS) requires the support of continuous scientific progress addressing: (a) the primary mechanisms driving coastal circulation; (b) methods to achieve fully integrated coastal systems (observations and models), that are dynamically embedded in larger scale systems; and (c) methods to adequately represent air-sea and biophysical interactions. Issues of downscaling, data assimilation, atmosphere-wave-ocean couplings and ecosystem dynamics in the coastal ocean are discussed. These science topics are fundamental for successful COFS, which are connected to evolving downstream applications, dictated by the socioeconomic needs of rapidly increasing coastal populations

Coastal Ocean Forecasting: science foundation and user benefits

The advancement of Coastal Ocean Forecasting Systems (COFS) requires the support of continuous scientific progress addressing: (a) the primary mechanisms driving coastal circulation; (b) methods to achieve fully integrated coastal systems (observations and models), that are dynamically embedded in larger scale systems; and (c) methods to adequately represent air-sea and biophysical interactions. Issues of downscaling, data assimilation, atmosphere-wave-ocean couplings and ecosystem dynamics in the coastal ocean are discussed. These science topics are fundamental for successful COFS, which are connected to evolving downstream applications, dictated by the socioeconomic needs of rapidly increasing coastal populations

The application of the numerical wind wave model SWAN to a selected field case on the South African coast

Thesis (MScEng (Civil Engineering))--University of Stellenbosch, 2002.198 leaves double sided printed, preliminary pages i-xx and numberd pages 1-1-12-6.Includes bibliography. List of tables, figures and appendices and acronyms. Scanned with a HP Scanjet 8250 Scanner to pdf format (OCR).ENGLISH ABSTRACT: In this study the numerical short wave model SWAN is evaluated for application to a selected coastal region in South Africa. The aim of this study was to evaluate the degree of accuracy with which SWAN can simulate prototype nearshore wave spectra and wave parameters (e.g. wave height, mean wave direction and mean wave period) for an Algoa Bay field case. Algoa Bay represents a typical deep, sheltered embayment on the South African south coast, which is exposed to high-energy swell. Sensitivity analyses on various wave-related processes were also done, with the aim of establishing the dominant physical processes and appropriate model setup for the Algoa Bay field case. With the dominant wave-related processes and appropriate model setup for the Algoa Bay field case established, selected final runs were performed to determine the degree of accuracy with which SWAN can simulate prototype conditions, by comparing its results with available field recordings. This study comprises a review of the SWAN evaluation work conducted to date by others, an overview of South African coastal conditions, and numerical model simulations. The model simulations, which represent the main focus of this study, were conducted for a selection of available offshore wave conditions (at 85 m water depth) observed during the Algoa Bay field case and were compared to available nearshore observations (at 17 m water depth). Environmental conditions of waves, wind and currents were included in these simulations. The study focuses on model application and sensitivity analysis, rather than model development, and includes evaluation of all relevant processes, without focussing on any specific model aspect. The results of this study show that SWAN simulations correlated well with observations at the nearshore station in Algoa Bay, both in wave spectral shape and its associated parameters. Dominant processes identified for the field case were depth-induced refraction, bottom friction and directional spreading. This finding agrees with those of previous evaluations of SWAN and previous modelling experience by others. It is shown that high-energy swell is relatively more sensitive to the choices of model setup than wind sea. Based on the simulation results of high-energy swell, it is concluded that the calculation of depth-induced refraction in SWAN seem to contain a degree of inaccuracy. It is also concluded that the findings of this study could be used as a guideline to SWAN modelling studies along the South African south coast.AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: In hierdie studie word die toepassingsmoontlikhede van die numeriese kortgolf model SWAN vir 'n geselekteerde gedeelde van die Suid-Afrikaanse kuslyn beoordeel. Die doel van hierdie studie is om die vlak van akkuraatheid waarmee SWAN prototipe golfspektra en golfparameters (bv. golfhoogte, gemiddelde golfrigting en gemiddelde golfperiode) in die vlakwater kan simuleer te beoordeel, vir 'n Algoabaai gevallestudie. Algoabaai verteenwoordig 'n tipiese diep, beskermde baai aan die Suid-Afrikaanse kuslyn, wat blootgestel is aan hoe-energie deining. Sensitiwiteitstoetse is ook uitgevoer vir verskillende golfprosesse, met die doel om die dominante fisiese prosesse en gepaste modelopstelling vir die Algoabaai gevallestudie te vind. Nadat die dominante golfprosesse geidentifiseer is, en die toepaslike modelopstelling gevind is, is finale simulasies uitgevoer vir geselekteerde gevalle om die mate van akkuraatheid te bepaal waarmee SWAN prototipe kondisies kan simuleer, deur simulasie resultate met beskikbare veldmetings te vergelyk. Hierdie studie bestaan uit 'n samevatting van die evaluasiewerk verrig op SWAN deur andere, 'n samevatting van golf-, wind- en stroomtoestande aan die Suid-Afrikaanse kus en numeriese modelsimulasies. Die modelsimulasies, wat die hooffokus van hierdie studie is, is uitgevoer vir 'n seleksie van beskikbare diepsee golftoestande (in 85 m waterdiepte) uit die Algoabaai gevallestudie en is vergelyk met beskikbare vlakwater metings (in 17 m waterdiepte). Omgewingstoestande van golwe, wind en seestrome is ingesluit in hierdie simulasies. Die studie fokus op modeltoepassing en sensitiwiteits-analise, eerder as modelontwikkeling, en behels die beoordeeling van alle toepaslike modelprosesse, sonder om te fokus op enige spesifieke model aspek. Die resultate van hierdie studie toon aan dat die SWAN simulasies goed korrileer met vlakwater meetings in Algoabaai, vir beide golfspektraalvorm en verwante golfparameters. Bodemrefraksie, bodemwrywing en rigtingsspreiding is geidentifiseer as dominante modelprosesse. Hierdie resultaat kom ooreen met bevindings van vroeere beoordeling van SWAN en modelleer-ervaring deur andere. Dit word aangetoon dat hoe-energie deining relatief meer sensitief is vir modelopstelling as wind-see. Gebasseer op resultate van simulasie met hoe-energie deining, word die gevolgtrekking gemaak dat die berekening van bodemrefraksie in SWAN 'n mate van onakkuraatheid toon. Die gevolgtrekking word ook gemaak dat die resultate van hierdie studie as riglyn gebruik kan word vir modelleerwerk met SWAN aan die Suid-Afrikaanse suidkus

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters.

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching

Improvements in spectral wave modelling in tidal inlet seas - Overview of results of the SBW-Waddenzee project 2006-2010

Over the last five years a research program has been carried out to assess the performance of the spectral wave model SWAN in the Wadden Sea so that it may be used for the transformation of offshore wave conditions to wave boundary conditions near the sea defenses (dikes and dunes). The assessment was done on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Ameland inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes and estuaries. We found that the 2006 default version of SWAN (version 40.51) performed reasonably well for storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the conventional Battjes and Janssen (1978) depth-limited wave breaking formulation with default breaking parameter. Using the default settings, the wave height for a given water depth would be underpredicted near the sea defenses adjacent to nearly-horizontal flats. The problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second area of model improvement concerns two processes related to wave-current interaction, namely the so-called wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and enhanced dissipation due to wave steepening in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower-frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating into the inlet was underpredicted. Best results were obtained when the bottom friction coefficient was set at a lower value than the current default for wind seas. All these improvements have lead to a wave transformation model with which reliable wave conditions in the Wadden Sea and related complex areas can be determined.SB

Whitecapping and wave field evolution in a coastal bay

Evolution of the wave field in a coastal bay is investigated, by comparison between field observations and numerical simulations using a spectral wave model (Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN)). The simulations were conducted for the passage of an extratropical storm, during which surface elevation spectra were bimodal owing to local wind-sea generation and swell propagation into the bay. SWAN was run in stationary and nonstationary mode for two whitecapping source term formulations. The first was developed by Komen et al. (1984) and is dependent on spectrally averaged wave steepness, and thus includes swell in the calculation of whitecapping dissipation and typically overestimates wind sea in the presence of swell. The second, proposed by van der Westhuysen et al. (2007), estimates whitecapping of wind sea locally in the wave spectrum and is not coupled to swell energy. This formulation reproduced the magnitude and shape of the observed wind-sea spectral peak much better than the previous formulation. Whitecapping dissipation rates have been estimated from observations, using the equilibrium range theory developed by Phillips (1985), and are well correlated with both wind speed and acoustic backscatter observations. These rates agree with SWAN estimates using the spectrally local expression, and provide additional physical validation for the whitecapping source term.Hydraulic EngineeringCivil Engineering and Geoscience

Coastal ocean forecasting: Science foundation and user benefits

The advancement of Coastal Ocean Forecasting Systems (COFS) requires the support of continuous scientific progress addressing: (a) the primary mechanisms driving coastal circulation; (b) methods to achieve fully integrated coastal systems (observations and models), that are dynamically embedded in larger scale systems; and (c) methods to adequately represent air-sea and biophysical interactions. Issues of downscaling, data assimilation, atmosphere-wave-ocean couplings and ecosystem dynamics in the coastal ocean are discussed. These science topics are fundamental for successful COFS, which are connected to evolving downstream applications, dictated by the socioeconomic needs of rapidly increasing coastal populations