FROM ECONOMY TO EXCLUSIVITY: A HISTORY OF THE DEVORE TEXTILE 1880 TO 1940.

This thesis creates a contextual historical analysis of the development of chemical and devore manufactured textiles, relating methods of construction and intended use to existing textile design and social histories. The initial investigation of devore practice, whether used in association with woven, knitted and stitched textiles, includes a comprehensive examination of the historical textile patent record from 1840 to 1940, which formed an extensive part of the historiography. The aim of the research was to establish a credible narrative of woven devore, through its design and its manufacture. The methodology is interdisciplinary. In the course of my research and material evaluation I have considered evidence that is normally considered to be chemical and fibre analysis, design and art history review, dress textile and interior textile analysis, social and economic history and object analysis. This study in particular focuses on the peculiar dichotomy of woven devore: that is its growth as a manufacturing method of affordable textiles for the mass market contrasted with its most common deployment, as an ornate decorative textile. This study also challenges the conventional view that the aforementioned decorative woven devore textiles were developed in response to periods of economic depression

Textile Application: From Need to Imagination

To understand textiles and their application today, as well as future applications, it is necessary to comprehend the development of textiles and their applications throughout history. The gradual development of textile production processes and the use of different materials, influenced the development and application of materials themselves. Numerous innovations made since Industrial revolution, events in technology development and international competition have shaped the industry and continue to affect the textile production even today. Nowadays, textiles can be divided into two main sectors according to their application: conventional textiles (textiles for fashion clothing) and technical textiles with numerous applications for nearly all society needs. Due to market needs and technology development, the interference of all areas of science occurs, resulting in amazing innovations that follow existing trends and set future trends in terms of interactivity, digital and electronic functionality, social and environmental awareness, esthetics, etc. These are the reasons for great freedom, development prospects, expression of creativity and thus of innovativeness. The need for them today is greater and more important than ever before in the history of textiles and their application

Design revolutions: IASDR 2019 Conference Proceedings. Volume 2: Living, Making, Value

In September 2019 Manchester School of Art at Manchester Metropolitan University was honoured to host the bi-annual conference of the International Association of Societies of Design Research (IASDR) under the unifying theme of DESIGN REVOLUTIONS. This was the first time the conference had been held in the UK. Through key research themes across nine conference tracks – Change, Learning, Living, Making, People, Technology, Thinking, Value and Voices – the conference opened up compelling, meaningful and radical dialogue of the role of design in addressing societal and organisational challenges. This Volume 2 includes papers from Living, Making and Value tracks of the conference

The development of a hybrid system for designing and pattern making in-set sleeves

This research investigates the relationship between the designer, the pattern maker and the elements that constitute a multiplicity of in-set sleeves. Present sleeve drafting methods represent unpredictable, single-style variations of past methods. They do not vary from the normal non-cohesive practises for any current inset sleeve styles. Current sleeve drafting methods contain only surface explanations for many of the features contained within the sleeve design. Drafting methods are restricted to surface, point-to-point drafting descriptive - they do not convey the actual detailed mechanisms required of the complete scye and sleeve assembly. My perspective suggests that designing and pattern making has scarcely advanced since the beginning of the nineteenth century, or earlier. Therefore, the principal research question is: How might the role of the designer, the tasks of the pattern maker, the many in-set sleeve styles and related fabrics, be combined to create a unique inclusive in-set sleeve design system that is advantageous to the apparel industry? In order to create a unique in-set sleeve design system, this study incorporates a hybrid process derived from a number of design methods. Case studies of a number of sleeve styles and fabrics, representative of a major percentage of the sleeve design range, are developed to confirm the proposition that although each sleeve is a unique entity, they are, contradictory, all one and the same. This is because they are composed of the same limited number of parts and elements. The study details the parts and elements that compose the scye (armhole) and sleeves. These are united with a compilation of engineering drawing methods which are explained and analysed prior to incorporation with additional drawing interpretations. The adoption of engineering drawing methods as a base, with further adaptations, to create a new logical sleeve design system, is seen as a complete break from current trial and error practises to a predictable outcomes-focussed process

Graceful Language Extensions and Interfaces

Grace is a programming language under development aimed at education. Grace is object-oriented, imperative, and block-structured, and intended for use in first- and second-year object-oriented programming courses. We present a number of language features we have designed for Grace and implemented in our self-hosted compiler. We describe the design of a pattern-matching system with object-oriented structure and minimal extension to the language. We give a design for an object-based module system, which we use to build dialects, a means of extending and restricting the language available to the programmer, and of implementing domain-specific languages. We show a visual programming interface that melds visual editing (à la Scratch) with textual editing, and that uses our dialect system, and we give the results of a user experiment we performed to evaluate the usability of our interface

Geotechnical characterization of the North Ramp of the Exploratory Studies Facility: Yucca Mountain Site Characterization Project. Volume 1, Data summary

This report presents the results of geological and geotechnical characterization of the Miocene volcanic tuff rocks of the Timber Mountain and Paintbrush groups that the tunnel boring machine will encounter during excavation of the Exploratory Studies Facility (ESF) North Ramp. The is being constructed by the DOE as part of the Yucca Mountain Project site characterization activities. The purpose of these activities is to evaluate the feasibility of locating a potential high-level nuclear waste repository on lands adjacent to the Nevada Test Site, Nye County, Nevada. This report was prepared as part of the Soil and Rock Properties Studies in accordance with the 8.3.1.14.2 Study Plan. This report is volume 1 of the data summary

Abstracts

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