Textile Society of America- Seventh Biennial Symposium 2000 WHOLE ISSUE

Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints Proceedings of the Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America Santa Fe, New Mexico 2000 The papers are unedited and reproduced as submitted. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the author. Students and researchers wishing to cite specific authors are encouraged to contact those individuals, as many of these papers represent work in progress, or work which has been committed for publication elsewhere. Contents Prefac

Source of inspiration for the product – demonstration of the potential of the local creative industry to develop new products to promote the region of Lodz

This paper presents and discusses the methodology of designing knitted fabrics and garments, taking into account the context of the Lodz avant-garde as a source of inspiration. The rich history and culture of the city of Lodz can be a promotional element of the city and a driving force for further development. The process of building and implementing the city's development strategy considers the promotion of creative industries, including the creation of new products related to local crafts and arts. The presented results of the work broaden the formal thinking in the design process and an alternative concept form of work suitable for theoreticians and practitioners working in this field – including knowledge of technology and programming in CNC industrial knitting machine. The work shows the results as presented by manufactured samples of knitted fabrics and forms of clothing, which may constitute a design proposal to promote the Lodz region

Textile Society of America 19:1 — Winter 2007

Lillian Elliott Award Presented at TSA Symposium Symposium 2006 Wrap-Up— textile narratives + conversations President\u27s LetterTSA NewsSymposium 2006 ReportsTSA Member NewsExhibition ReviewsCollections NewsCalendar: Exhibitions, Lectures, WorkshopsCalls for PapersConferences and SymposiaTSA Symposium 2008 Attraction

Textile Society of America Newsletter 18:2 — Spring 2006

TSA Symposium Highlights, October 11–14, 2006 Symposium Exhibition President’s Letter TSA News From the Nominating Committee: TSA Board Nominees TSA Member News Featured Collection [Collections of the Kennedy Museum of Art, Ohio University, Athens, Ohio] Exhibition Reviews [The Katha Collection: Fabricated Tales from Kala Raksha, Artist’s Center, Mumbai, India, March 6–12, 2006] Book Reviews Collections News Calendar-Exhibitions Calendar-Lectures, Workshops Grants Opportunities Calls for Papers Conferences & Symposi

Weavesound: interactive woven textiles that emit the sounds of being touched

This research employs a practice-based approach to examining the multi-sensory relationship between textiles and the body. Eczema, the highly sensitive skin condition, is used as a conceptual prism to scrutinise this relationship. Its rough three-dimensional surface is the basis for a range of electronic woven textiles that have been made into garments. The textiles are constructed from materials also used in the treatment of eczema, although the fabrics are not intended to be therapeutic. When the textiles are touched, their amplified sounds of being touched in real time is emitted through speakers. The sounds evidence the materiality of cloth and refer to the materiality of the body, whilst also highlighting the sounds of textiles themselves. The project also highlights the importance of touch in relation to textiles and the embodied nature of clothing. The research contests the historical western hierarchy of the senses, in which sight is privileged above all others, and challenges the dominance of sight in the appreciation of artworks. It is informed by recent developments in neuroscience, experimental psychology and sensory anthropology, as well as the sensory and material turns in the arts and humanities. The approach to the research has been cross-disciplinary and straddles craft, textile technology, electronics and computing, sound recording, and medical science. The enquiry has employed a process-led methodology of learning through making, combining traditional hand craft skills with digital technology. The research uncovered findings in three areas. The first concerns the delicate reciprocal relationship between textiles and eczematous skin, the second concerns the sounds of textiles being touched, and the third concerns public engagement with eczema research. These areas are generally investigated through scientific outputs, but in this research they are scrutinised through an interactive artistic output that reveals the multi-sensory experience of wearing textiles and the materiality of the body and cloth

The rays are colouring: the encounter of a phenomenon

This doctoral research, fusing the fields of Art, Science and Technology, explores the physical colour phenomenon of metamerism, by offering a theoretical account and aesthetic experience of the impact of light on dyed and knitted textiles through a series of artistic scenarios. In the field of colour and colour management the focus of research has generally been on how to avoid 'problematic' metameric colours due to their shifting visual coherence in varying light sources. However, this 'practice as research' project investigates metameric colours through textile installations and performances, where the observer can experience the spectacle triggered by different spectra of white light, thereby revealing new opportunities for creative expression. Quantitative science methods have been applied to produce the metameric materials (yarn and knitted fabric) utilized within the study, while the creation and staging of installations and performances involved the development of an artistic, explorative and iterative approach. Observations and analyses of the developing artistic and scientific processes and outcomes have been informed by constant 'reflection in action'. Yarn has been dyed using carefully calculated and rigorously tested, contrasting recipes so that the resulting knitted textile samples appear evenly matched in natural daylight, in the knowledge that they will appear different under incandescent or fluorescent light. These strategically dyed yarns, featuring alternating colours, were used for the creation of a series of knitted artworks, including a metameric dress used in green-green-green performances. The various performances and installations at once revealed and, through divers applied texts, embedded the phenomenon in the wider context of light, colour and perception. This investigation uncovered the beauty of the unexpected and demonstrated how light acts as a catalyst to provoke colour changes, thus breathing life into installations and performances. The offered encounters with the phenomenon of metamerism inspired thinking and astonishment and encouraged debates. Thereby a relocation of the 'problematic' physical colour phenomenon has been achieved, as the installations and performances affected a state of wonder within the observers and provided an appropriation and appreciation of its poetic

From the loom to wear : shapeable woven textiles from seamless fashion

There are various approaches in fashion and textile research which focus on how design processes could minimise environmental impact in order to make a more sustainable fashion and textile industry. One such approach is seamless or whole garment knitting technology, which results in much less fabric wastage than the ‘cut and sew’ method of garment manufacturing. However, seamless approaches in woven textile design have not been fully realised due to the characteristics of the woven fabrics. Moreover, research in seamless weaving has often focused on textile engineering and medical uses, and there has been little research into their use in fashion. In this research, a design practice of shapeable seamless woven garments is proposed as an alternative way of combining shapeable woven textiles and tubular weaving construction that leads to creative seamless garments that are versatile. Based on the action research process, this practice-based research examines five stages (planning, exploring, prototyping, observing and reflecting) that are used to transform woven textiles from the loom into fashion garments. The research explores three-dimensional and textural surface effects and different degrees of shrinkage of shapeable woven textiles that show inherent stretchability. In the prototyping stage, a series of shapeable seamless woven garments were created through both hand-weaving and the Jacquard weaving process. At this stage, the research demonstrated how 2D woven textile designs can be transformed into 3D fashion forms, and how prototype garments can be fitted on the body and worn in many different ways. In the observing and reflecting stages of the research, a questionnaire and focus group were conducted in order to assess external perspectives on, and evaluation of, practical outcomes of the research, i.e. specifically shapeable woven textiles and the effectiveness of the prototype designs. The research is capable of providing a creative way of designing seamless garments based on shapeable woven textiles by integrating key design considerations such as stretchability for adaptable fit, three-dimensional textural effects, versatility of prototype garments and material selection. By examining the above features, the research evaluates how the design process and practical outcomes enhance the product lifecycle and contribute to circular design and sustainability in fashion and textiles

Art in Craft Media: The Haystack Tradition, A Regional Exhibition from New England and New York

Participating institutions: William Benton Museum of Art and others.https://digitalcommons.bowdoin.edu/art-museum-exhibition-catalogs/1021/thumbnail.jp

Digital laser-dyeing: coloration and patterning techniques for polyester textiles

This research explored a Digital Laser Dye (DLD) patterning process as an alternative coloration method within a textile design practice context. An interdisciplinary framework employed to carry out the study involved Optical Engineering, Dyeing Chemistry, Textile Design and Industry Interaction through collaboration with the Society of Dyers and Colourists. In doing so, combined creative, scientific and technical methods facilitated design innovation. Standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology in order to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology and dye practices to enable textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of colour depth in relation to the textile. In doing so, a system for calibrating levels of colour against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilise the beam as an image making instrument for modifying textile fibres with controlled laser energy. Qualitative approaches employed enabled data gathering to incorporate verbal and written dialogue based on first-hand interactions. Documented notes encompassed individual thought and expression which facilitated the ability to reflect when engaged in practical activity. As such, tacit knowledge and designerly intuition, which is implicit by nature, informed extended design experiments and the thematic documentation of samples towards a textile design collection. Quantitative measurement and analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration aided both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to commercially apply the technique. Sportswear and intimate apparel prototypes produced in the study suggest suitable markets for processing polyester garments in this way

Aural Textiles. Hybrid practices for data-driven design

This paper explores the developing co-creative relationships that arise through integrating digital making and data-driven processes as inspiration within collaborative distributed networks of design and making. It draws upon a year-long case study of landscape sound digital pattern design with a group of textile practitioners from across Scotland. The aim is to understand how these collective ‘hybrid ways of making’ between digital data-driven design and analogue maker impacts the overall democratisation of textile design and manufacturing and influences the makers’ practice