‘Fashion Matters’ by Anneke Smelik. A Lecture Series on Sustainability, Posthumanism and New Materialism, Università Iuav di Venezia, 2nd–30th March 2022

Fashion Matters’ is a fascinating concept to think about the relevance of fashion and, at the same time, the vibrant substance which fashion is made of. This concept was the title of the lecture series delivered by Anneke Smelik, professor of Visual Culture at the Radboud University Nijmegen (Netherlands) as visiting researcher and professor IR.IDE at Università Iuav di Venezia, Department of Architecture and Arts in Spring 2022. The series explored the new paradigms of fashion cultures by connecting the interrelated issues of climate change, technology, and identity. Articulated in five encounters, it covered the topics of Fashion and Sustainability: setting the stage(2nd March); Anthropocene: Posthumanism and New Materialism (9th March); Posthuman Bodies and Identities(16thMarch); Wearable Technology and Bio-couture (23rd March); and A Posthuman Ethics of Care for Fashion (30th March)

The Fashion Futuring: a Sustainable Paradigm for The Time to Come

This paper aims to investigate the stories that fashion tells about its imagined future. It intends to identify and analyse the \u201cfuturing\u201d discourses that are emerging as a possible way forward for fashion by taking into account the contact zones between critical thinking, environmental activism, and history. The purpose is to show the significant role that \u201cfuturing\u201d and speculative fiction could play in redirecting fashion, and, broadly speaking, in reimagining fashion itself. The research would like to overcome the dominant identification of fashion with its own industry and to open up a different interpretation of inventions, fantasies, and alternate history beyond the promotional and heritage-related purposes of fashion design and communication. By doing so, it aims to challenge the dominant dualistic understanding of fashion as an unrealistic fantasy for a real industry, and to point out some possible aims for designers and fashion thinkers. In order to achieve the above-mentioned purposes, the research relied on \u201cwhat if?\u201d as a key methodological tool. This allowed the achievement of two major outcomes. The first is that speaking about fictional histories proved to be an effective tool to identify and understand current and actual issues, such as the precarity of the fashion designer vis-\ue0-vis Artificial Intelligence, and the precarity of the real garments vis-\ue0-vis the digital. The second is the role that speculative fashion plays in rethinking the idea of history, for example finding a counterhistory of European fashion to overcome the narrative of the big brands and the clich\ue9 of glamour and beauty. The research originality lies in its effort to experiment futuring and speculative methods to fashion, whose theory is still lacking in this regard

The Simultaneous Dress of Sonia Delaunay, Fashion, and the Tangibility of the Tango

Sonia Delaunay’s simultaneous dress of 1913 incorporates a heterogenous variety of materials in its patchwork structure, which includes both fur and fabrics of different weights and colours. By focusing on the relationship between art, fashion, and the tango, this article studies the dynamic between the tangibility and intangibility of Delaunay’s dress and proposes an interpretation related to the collage. The dress materialises the collage within the lexicon of fashion, while its texture incorporates fragments of movements, tango poses, and everything one could find drooped over the patronesses and patrons of the ballrooms of the age. This article transposes the concept of the collage from the surface of the dress to the space of the ballroom, and reflects on the new idea of intimacy and physical proximity encouraged by the fashion of the tango

Il Tempo della Moda: a Dialogue on Fashion and Time

A three-thousand word dialogue that outlines some of the concepts that Evans and Vaccari developed in the course of expanding the English-language edition (2020) of their anthology first published in Italian as Il Tempo della Moda (Mimesis, 2019)

Fashion in Autarchy: politics of fashion in 1930s fascist Italy

The fascist regime enforced autarchy in the second half of the 1930s to promote domestic production and reduce raw materials imports. Autarchy was introduced as a strategic response to the economic sanctions that the League of Nations applied to Italy after the Italian invasion of Ethiopia in 1935. The article analyses the role that fashion played in the autarchic programme of the fascist regime. It investigates the relationships that both fascism and fashion have in common with modernism. Particularly, it examines the role that fashion’s cultural identity and international character have played in the construction and promotion of a new national image, as well as fashion-related explicit and implicit forms of disobedience to the autarchic policies of the fascist regime.Na segunda metade dos anos 1930, o regime fascista introduziu a autarquia como forma de autonomia econômica da Itália frente às importações de matérias-primas. A autarquia foi lançada como instrumento para responder à crise gerada pelas sanções impostas ao país em 1935 pela Sociedade das Nações após a invasão italiana à Etiópia. O artigo analisa o papel que a moda teve no programa autárquico lançado pelo regime. Pela sua coação identitária e internacional, a moda permite examinar e colocar em confronto tanto a construção e promoção de uma nova imagem da nação, como as formas de desobediência explícita ou implícita às políticas autárquicas do regime fascista

Il fashion designer e la storia della moda : i discorsi, gli approcci e i modelli interpretativi = O fashion designer e a hist\uf3ria da moda : os discursos, as abordagens e os modelos interpretativos

Le narrative dei fashion designer sono il focus di questo dossier che si propone di riflettere su una delle figure pi\uf9 affascinanti e controverse della storia della moda di et\ue0 contemporanea. Affascinanti perch\ue9, nella cultura occidentale e non solo, i fashion designer hanno incarnato l\u2019idea di moda, divenendone per i consumatori il volto stesso. Sono figure controverse, o quanto meno problematiche, nel momento in cui \u2013 come in questo dossier \u2013 si cerca di affrontarle con gli strumenti dello storico e dello studioso della cultura. Al centro del discorso \ue8 il modo in cui i fashion designer si rappresentano attraverso i loro stessi testi, sotto forma di memorie, autobiografie, monografie, interviste e, in anni pi\uf9 recenti, documentari e social media

Gli Abiti Trasformabili

Transformable dresses are capable of incorporating the becoming of forms into a single object, thus offering a new perspective to investigate the relationship between the morphology and performativity of fashion. The analysis stems from Roland Barthes’ interpretation of the “endless” or “total” garment to focus on the role of transformable dresses in the 1910s’ European and American modernism and their effects on today’s digital and post-digital fashion.Transformable dresses are capable of incorporating the becoming of forms into a single object, thus offering a new perspective to investigate the relationship between the morphology and performativity of fashion. The analysis stems from Roland Barthes’ interpretation of the “endless” or “total” garment to focus on the role of transformable dresses in the 1910s’ European and American modernism and their effects on today’s digital and post-digital fashion

Florence Nightingale : legado, presente y perspectivas en tiempos de pandemia de COVID-19

Objetivo: Refletir sobre a influência dos ensinamentos de Florence Nightingale para o enfrentamento da pandemia da COVID-19 e suas repercussões ao futuro da profissão. Métodos: Estudo descritivo do tipo reflexivo, realizado entre maio e julho de 2020, por meio de revisão narrativa sobre a temática e debates entre as autoras. Resultados: Os achados estão divididos em dois capítulos, a saber: a Teoria Ambientalista e os ensinamentos de Florence Nightingale diante da pandemia da COVID-19; e Florence Nightingale: legado, presente e perspectivas. Considerações finais: Os estudos de Florence Nightingale com a Teoria Ambientalista e seus ensinamentos como enfermeira ainda são válidos, mesmo depois de quase dois séculos desde seu prelúdio, e devem continuar servindo como alicerce para a consolidação da profissão de enfermagem.Objective: Reflect on the influence of Florence Nightingale’s teachings to face the COVID-19 pandemic and its repercussions for the future of the profession. Methods: Descriptive reflective study, carried out between May and July 2020, through narrative review on the theme and debates between the authors. Results: The findings are divided into two chapters, namely: Environmental Theory and the teachings of Florence Nightingale in the face of the COVID-19 pandemic; and Florence Nightingale: legacy, present and perspectives. Final considerations: Florence Nightingale’s studies with the Environmentalist Theory and her teachings as a nurse are still valid, even after almost two centuries since her prelude, and should continue to serve as a foundation for the consolidation of the nursing profession.Objetivo: Reflejar acerca de la influencia de las enseñanzas de Florence Nightingale para el enfrentamiento de la pandemia de COVID-19 y sus repercusiones al futuro de la profesión. Métodos: Estudio descriptivo del tipo reflexivo, realizado entre mayo y julio de 2020, por medio de revisión narrativa acerca de la temática y debates entre las autoras. Resultados: Los hallados están divididos en dos capítulos, a saber: la Teoría Ambientalista y las enseñanzas de Florence Nightingale frente a la pandemia de COVID-19; y Florence Nightingale: legado, presente y perspectivas. Consideraciones finales: Aún los estudios de Florence Nightingale con la Teoría Ambientalista y sus enseñanzas como enfermera son válidos, mismo después de casi dos siglos desde su preludio, y deben continuar sirviendo como base para la consolidación de la profesión de enfermería

Informe de Expediente Civil No. 05555-2015-0-0401-JR-FC-01 sobre violencia familiar. Informe de Expediente Laboral No 00373-2012-0-0601-JR-LA-01 sobre: reposición

Materia: Violencia familiar Nº de Expediente: 05555-2015-0-0401-JR-FC-01. El presente expediente versa sobre una demanda de cese de violencia familiar interpuesta por la 1ra Fiscalía Provincial de Familia de Arequipa a favor de la agraviada, debido a la imputación de actos de violencia familiar – maltrato psicológico, que tendría su supuesta autoría por parte del demandado. En ese sentido, la Fiscalía solicita como pretensión principal se declare la existencia de violencia familiar en la modalidad de maltrato psicológico y como pretensiones accesorias se dicten medidas de protección, el tratamiento que deberá recibir la víctima, su familia y agresor; y, la reparación del daño a la víctima. El demandado contesta la demanda negándola en todos sus extremos y aduciendo que no ha perpetrado los actos que se le imputan; por ende, no cuenta con responsabilidad alguna. En primera instancia se declara infundada la demanda ante lo cual el demandante apela. En segunda instancia el colegiado resuelve revocar la sentencia de primera instancia, reformándola y declarándola fundada. Materia: Reposición Nº de Expediente: 00373-2012-0-0601-JR-LA-01. El presente expediente versa sobre una demanda de reposición por despido fraudulento, debido a que el demandante considera que ha sido objeto de despido sin causa legal más aún considera que el demandado le ha imputado faltas que no se encuentran tipificadas en el ordenamiento laboral. El demandado le imputó las faltas graves previstas en los literales a) y d) del artículo 25º de la Ley de Productividad y Competitividad Laboral, aprobado por el Decreto Supremo Nº003-97-TR, consistentes en: (i) inobservancia al reglamento interno de trabajo; (ii) inobservancia al reglamento de salud y seguridad ocupacional minera; (iii) incumplimiento de obligaciones de trabajo que supone el quebrantamiento de la buena fe laboral; y, (iv) la entrega de información falsa al empleador con la intención de causarle un perjuicio u obtener una ventaja. Ellas en relación con los hechos suscitados durante el periodo de descanso médico gozado por el trabajador en el periodo del 20 al 23 de noviembre del 2011. El demandado contesta la demanda solicitando se declare la nulidad del auto admisorio, se declare la improcedencia de la demanda por contener un petitorio jurídicamente imposible; deduce excepción de incompetencia por razón de la materia, deduce excepción por caducidad y, finalmente, contesta la demanda en caso sea desvirtuado lo anteriormente señalado. En primera instancia se declara fundada la excepción de incompetencia por razón de la materia, ante lo cual el demandante apela. En segunda instancia el colegiado resuelve declarar nula la sentencia y orden emitir nueva, ante lo cual el juez de primera instancia declara infundada la demanda por no haberse configurado un despido fraudulento y en realidad haber sido justificado. El demandante vuelve a apelar y en sentencia de vista la corte superior resuelve declarar fundada la demanda, ordenando la reposición del demandante. El demandado interpone recurso de casación. La Corte Suprema resuelve declara nula la sentencia de segunda instancia y ordena emitan un nuevo pronunciamiento. Finalmente, la sala de segunda instancia resuelve confirmando la sentencia de primera instancia que declara infundada la demanda