Emotional fit: developing a new fashion design methodology for mature women

This paper reports on a user-centered methodological approach towards fashion design for mature women (55+). Referred to as the 'baby boomers' the women in this study are the product of the cultural revolution of the 1960s, who consequently have a strong sense of their own 'agency', as conveyed through their clothing and style, but now find themselves stepping into the unknown territory of a limited market. The majority of fashion brands and stores are aimed at younger consumers, and with some exceptions, it is only high and niche designer labels who are offering stylish garments that complement the changing bodies of an older generation women with strong aesthetic values. In response to this situation three researchers have developed an original research methodology which synthesizes fashion and textile design practices with Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA), resulting in an holistic, co-design and user-centred approach that responds to the emotional and physical needs of an ageing female demographic

Tangibility in e-textile participatory service design with mental health participants

This paper introduces a project in which members of the Nottinghamshire Mind Network are engaged in the participatory design of e-textile service networks informed by the Person-Centred Approach mode of psychotherapy. Early reflections on separate e-textile and service design workshops reveal two distinct functions of tangibility in this process. First, we discuss how we have attempted to make novel technical futures tangible for participants through the experience of making textile circuits and soft handheld objects. Second, we discuss our finding that the experiences of participants in the mental health sector can lack presence for relevant audiences; our response to this, in the form of collaborative film work is introduced. The paper contributes to the technical and participatory design communities in its presentation of the Person-Centred attitude to the configuration of potentially vulnerable user groups, and the development of a methodology for the inclusive design of embedded technologies

Emotional fit: developing a new fashion methodology with older women

This article reports on a user-centred methodological approach towards fashion design for older women (55+). Referred to as the ‘baby boomers’, the women in this study are the product of the cultural revolution of the 1960s, who consequently have a strong sense of their own agency, as conveyed through their clothing and style, but now find themselves stepping into the unknown territory of a limited clothing market. The majority of fashion brands and stores aim at younger consumers, and with some notable exceptions, it is mainly high and niche designer labels who are offering stylish garments that complement the changing bodies of an older generation women with strong aesthetic values. In response to this negative scenario, three researchers have developed an original practice-based research methodology that synthesizes fashion and textile design practices with interpretative phenomenological analysis. The emerging holistic, co-design and user-centred approach uniquely responds to both the physical and emotional needs of an ageing female demographic highlighting the need for more holistic clothing design models

Textiles as Material Gestalt: Cloth as a Catalyst in the Co-designing Process

Textiles is the common language within Emotional Fit, a collaborative research project investigating a person-centred, sustainable approach to fashion for an ageing female demographic (55+). Through the co-designing of a collection of research tools, textiles have acted as a material gestalt for exploring our research participants' identities by tracing their embodied knowledge of fashionable dress. The methodology merges Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis, co-design and a simultaneous approach to textile and garment design. Based on an enhanced understanding of our participants textile preferences, particular fabric qualities have catalysed silhouettes, through live draping and geometric pattern cutting to accommodate multiple body shapes and customisation. Printedtextiles have also been digitally crafted in response to the contours of the garment and body and personal narratives of wear. Sensorial and tactile interactions have informed the engineering and scaling of patterns within zero-waste volumes. The article considers the functional and aesthetic role of textiles

(Dis-)engaged older men? Hegemonic masculinity, fashion and ageing

Recently, we have witnessed an intensified interest from various fashion scholars on the subject of men and masculine identities. However, while most of the existing research initiatives explore various aspects of masculinity and fashion, they also seem to be limited in their choices of subjects to homosexual and/or young male adults. In this vein, Julia Twigg argues that older men remain ‘largely disengaged from fashion as a cultural field’ (2013a: 19). This article explores the nature of this theoretical disengagement when it comes to older heterosexual men’s lived experience of fashion by drawing on in-depth, semi-structured interviews and personal inventories with a small sample of British men (n=5) based in, or strongly linked to, Nottingham, United Kingdom. In-depth qualitative analysis of the research material revealed various contradictions displayed by the participants in relation to their ageing masculine identities and their often lifelong interest in fashionable clothing. We inspect these discrepancies from two perspectives in which such a disengagement might emerge: between men and fashion and between fashion and ageing. By analysing the findings through Connell’s (2005) influential concept of hegemonic masculinity, we argue that some men both resist and reproduce such a stereotypical disengagement

A large multi-country outbreak of monkeypox across 41 countries in the WHO European Region, 7 March to 23 August 2022

Following the report of a non-travel-associated cluster of monkeypox cases by the United Kingdom in May 2022, 41 countries across the WHO European Region have reported 21,098 cases and two deaths by 23 August 2022. Nowcasting suggests a plateauing in case notifications. Most cases (97%) are MSM, with atypical rash-illness presentation. Spread is mainly through close contact during sexual activities. Few cases are reported among women and children. Targeted interventions of at-risk groups are needed to stop further transmission. © 2022 European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control (ECDC). All rights reserved.The authors affiliated with the World Health Organization (WHO) are alone responsible for the views expressed in this publication and they do not necessarily represent the decisions or policies of the WHO. The co-author is a fellow of the ECDC Fellowship Programme, supported financially by the European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control (ECDC). The views and opinions expressed herein do not state or reflect those of ECDC. ECDC is not responsible for the data and information collation and analysis and cannot be held liable for conclusions or opinions drawn

Large and prolonged food-borne multistate hepatitis A outbreak in Europe associated with consumption of frozen berries, 2013 to 2014

In May 2013, Italy declared a national outbreak of hepatitis A, which also affected several foreign tourists who had recently visited the country. Molecular investigations identified some cases as infected with an identical strain of hepatitis A virus subgenotype IA. After additional European Union/European Economic Area (EU/EEA) countries reported locally acquired and travel-related cases associated with the same outbreak, an international outbreak investigation team was convened, a European outbreak case definition was issued and harmonisation of the national epidemiological and microbiological investigations was encouraged. From January 2013 to August 2014, 1,589 hepatitis A cases were reported associated with the multistate outbreak; 1,102 (70%) of the cases were hospitalised for a median time of six days; two related deaths were reported. Epidemiological and microbiological investigations implicated mixed frozen berries as the vehicle of infection of the outbreak. In order to control the spread of the outbreak, suspected or contaminated food batches were recalled, the public was recommended to heat-treat berries, and post-exposure prophylaxis of contacts was performed. The outbreak highlighted how large food-borne hepatitis A outbreaks may affect the increasingly susceptible EU/EEA general population and how, with the growing international food trade, frozen berries are a potential high-risk food

Re-making fashion experience: a model for ‘participatory research through clothing design’

The paper presents a participatory research model based on two case studies, involving the making of the research and the making of the clothing. In recent years, there has been growing interest in participatory design research, especially in relation to textiles and clothing. Various practice-based initiatives focused around the role, value and use of clothing have demonstrated success in developing and applying research methodologies aimed at activating or recording creative outcomes while staying attuned to participants’ experiential knowledge and feedback. Researchers working across social and design innovation contexts point to the urgent need for new cultures of sustainable practice that challenge the growth model through the sharing of expert and amateur knowledge and skills. Consequently, an important opportunity now exists to more formally explicate a transferable model of principles for participatory engagement through making together. Based on critical analysis of two consecutive collaborative research inquiries, this article posits a working model of ‘participatory research through clothing design’. The authors suggest that the model, consisting of five stages of participation: (I) communicating and listening, (II) involving, (III) activating and responding, (IV) consulting, and (V) sharing, offers a useful pathway when considering craft-based research aspirations and goals. The authors seek to highlight some of the practical opportunities and ethical responsibilities faced by researchers when making with others, while delineating some of the challenges and potential pitfalls raised by both case studies