Clothing longevity perspectives: exploring consumer expectations, consumption and use

The production, distribution, use and end-of-life phases of the clothing lifecycle all have significant environmental impacts, but complete lifecycle assessment has identified that extending the active life of garments through design, use and re-use is the single most effective intervention in reducing the overall impact of the clothing industry (WRAP, 2011). In response, Government funded clothing longevity research seeks to develop and test industry-led design strategies to influence and enable consumers to keep garments in active use for longer (Cooper et al., 2014). While recent UK research has indicated significant potential to influence more sustainable consumer behaviour (Langley et al., 2013; YouGov, 2012), up-to-date qualitative research is required to discover how consumer attitudes, expectations and behaviours in relation to clothing lifetimes affects garment care and clothing use. This will help to inform industry-led strategies by understanding where effective changes can be made that will potentially have most impact. This paper presents preliminary findings from a Defra funded action based research project, ‘Strategies to improve design and testing for clothing longevity’. Qualitative research methods are used to explore consumer attitudes, expectations and behaviours at purchase, use and disposal stages of garment lifetimes, and gather data on practices of garment wash, wear, care and maintenance in everyday life. The research findings are discussed in relation to industry-led strategies aimed at extending the life of clothes

Bethe Ansatz solution of a decagonal rectangle triangle random tiling

A random tiling of rectangles and triangles displaying a decagonal phase is solved by Bethe Ansatz. Analogously to the solutions of the dodecagonal square triangle and the octagonal rectangle triangle tiling an exact expression for the maximum of the entropy is found.Comment: 17 pages, 4 figures, some remarks added and typos correcte

Static Envelope Patterns in Composite Resonances Generated by Level Crossing in Optical Toroidal Microcavities

We study level crossing in the optical whispering-gallery (WG) modes by using toroidal microcavities. Experimentally, we image the stationary envelope patterns of the composite optical modes that arise when WG modes of different wavelengths coincide in frequency. Numerically, we calculate crossings of levels that correspond with the observed degenerate modes, where our method takes into account the not perfectly transverse nature of their field polarizations. In addition, we analyze anticrossing with a large avoidance gap between modes of the same azimuthal number

The effect of consumer attitudes on design for product longevity: the case of the fashion industry

Product longevity is a key aspect of sustainability and encouraging consumers to prolong the lifetime of products therefore has a part to play in minimising environmental sustainability impacts. The production, distribution and disposal phases of the clothing life cycle all create environmental impacts, but extending garments’ active life via design, maintenance and re-use of clothing is the most effective method of reducing the negative effects of the clothing industry on the environment. The study took an exploratory approach using mixed qualitative research methods to investigate consumer perspectives on clothing longevity and explore everyday processes and practices of clothing use, e.g. purchase, wear, care, maintenance, repair, re-use and disposal. The research findings showed that numerous factors affect consumers’ perspectives of clothing longevity during the purchase, usage and disposal stages of the clothing lifecycle. The conclusion addresses how these factors can influence product design practice in the fashion industry

Tight focusing of plane waves from micro-fabricated spherical mirrors

We derive a formula for the light field of a monochromatic plane wave that is truncated and reflected by a spherical mirror. Our formula is valid even for deep mirrors, where the aperture radius approaches the radius of curvature. We apply this result to micro-fabricated mirrors whose size scales are in the range of tens to hundreds of wavelengths, and show that sub-wavelength spot sizes can be achieved. This opens up the possibility of scalable arrays of tightly focused optical dipole traps without the need for high-performance optical systems.Comment: 8 pages, 5 color figures, 1 .sty file; changes made in response to referee comments; published in Optics Expres

Exact Solution of an Octagonal Random Tiling Model

We consider the two-dimensional random tiling model introduced by Cockayne, i.e. the ensemble of all possible coverings of the plane without gaps or overlaps with squares and various hexagons. At the appropriate relative densities the correlations have eight-fold rotational symmetry. We reformulate the model in terms of a random tiling ensemble with identical rectangles and isosceles triangles. The partition function of this model can be calculated by diagonalizing a transfer matrix using the Bethe Ansatz (BA). The BA equations can be solved providing {\em exact} values of the entropy and elastic constants.Comment: 4 pages,3 Postscript figures, uses revte

SERVice Oriented Intelligent Value Adding nEtwork for Clothing-SMEs embarking in Mass-Customisation [as a result of the Automatic knitting Sites pilot, Task D6.2a]. CORDIS.

Executive Summary: This report describes the outcomes of research and development work done by IFTH (France) and Nottingham Trent University (UK) to develop and evaluate the procedures for a business model to produce commercially customised fully-fashioned knitwear. It builds on the initial work done by Unicatum, RWTH and Hohenstein Institute (Germany). The purpose was to demonstrate the commercial potential for on-demand, localised manufacturing of up-market fashion products using new technology. The target market was upper-middle market knitwear for ladies, typical products being a jumper, cardigan or dress. As with the rest of the SERVIVE project, customisation has been assumed to be linked to style advice. Thus part of the overall product and consumer experience is the initial process of co-design. This is partly illustrated in the video of the demonstration [see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIodKyciJAM]. However as this could vary according to each retailer (e.g. web-based or personal style advisor, product category, etc.), this aspect is better covered in other SERVIVE project deliverables. The key technology assumed in the micro-factory is one or more whole-garment 3D knitting machines. It is recognised that this can be an option with circular knitting (e.g. Santoni), but in this instance the focus is on the multiple flat-bed technology such as is available from Stoll and Shima Seiki

Managing sustainability in the fashion business: challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK

The production, distribution and disposal phases of the clothing life cycle all create environmental impacts, but life cycle assessment has found that extending garments' active life via design, maintenance and re-use of clothing is an effective method of reducing the environmental sustainability impacts of the clothing industry. The research in this article adopts a qualitative methodology focused on interviews with stakeholders from companies in the clothing sector. With regard to actions to support sustainability through clothing longevity, a range of responses were analysed thematically, alongside other key issues in clothing longevity, one of the most consistent themes being improvement in knowledge and skills. This study found that challenges to enhancing clothing longevity could be addressed via improved knowledge, skills, process and infrastructure, if managerial decisions were taken to reduce barriers to longevity and to enhance the agency of NPD teams in this respect

Maser Oscillation in a Whispering-Gallery-Mode Microwave Resonator

We report the first observation of above-threshold maser oscillation in a whispering-gallery(WG)-mode resonator, whose quasi-transverse-magnetic, 17th azimuthal-order WG mode, at a frequency of approx. 12.038 GHz, with a loaded Q of several hundred million, is supported on a cylinder of mono-crystalline sapphire. An electron spin resonance (ESR) associated with Fe3+ ions, that are substitutively included within the sapphire at a concentration of a few parts per billion, coincides in frequency with that of the (considerably narrower) WG mode. By applying a c.w. `pump' to the resonator at a frequency of approx. 31.34 GHz, with no applied d.c. magnetic field, the WG (`signal') mode is energized through a three-level maser scheme. Preliminary measurements demonstrate a frequency stability (Allan deviation) of a few times 1e-14 for sampling intervals up to 100 s.Comment: REVTeX v.4, 3 pages, with a separate .bbl file and 3 .eps figure

Pilling in knitwear – a clothing longevity problem beyond design

The environmental impact of clothing could be reduced by extending garment lifetimes, and many clothing retailers are now exploring design for longevity as a sustainable approach. In order for products to meet durable design standards consistently, global supply chain processes must be managed and controlled to avoid quality problems and early product failure. This paper uses a single case study to explore the challenges of meeting specified durable product standards in production by tracing and observing the identification and resolution of a quality issue affecting the durability of luxury knitwear. The research demonstrates that new tests and processes could enable durable products to be produced more consistently, but also identifies the obstacles and limitations to implementing these enhanced procedures. The paper proposes that effective production management of durable clothing may be more difficult within global supply chains where differences in business culture, operational practice and knowledge exist between companies. Supply chain models that emphasise shared values, knowledge and information exchange, trust and collaboration are considered as the most effective in delivering sustainable products. It concludes by identifying a range of conflicting priorities between commercial and sustainable practice that must be addressed to achieve consistency in durable clothing production, and makes recommendations for industry and future research