452 research outputs found

    Gifts to be Cultivated: Training in Dressmaking and Millinery 1860-1920

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    Dressmaking and millinery flourished around the turn of the 20th century. By 1900, there were over 420,000 women working in the trades. Trade work offered good wages, possibility for advancement, and autonomy, but required the worker to obtain substantial skills. The purpose of this historical research study was to identify training and educational opportunities in dressmaking and millinery during the years 1860-1920. Women studied for years in order to be accomplished seamstresses in the trades. Each trade had numerous stages of ability and increasing duties that denoted the skill level of the worker. A potpourri of experiences existed for aspiring tradeswomen to obtain the skills necessary to become successful dressmakers and milliners. Girls had access to sewing instruction through home sewing, books, correspondence schools, apprenticeships, public school, trade school, and high school. As women they learned from magazines, evening school, private school, college, clubs, conventions, and fairs. Although the focus of information and instruction was often on home sewing, dressmakers and milliners used these same skills to forward themselves in trade. Almost every woman took her own route, discovering what was necessary to add to her medley of knowledge in order to be successful in business. Dressmakers and milliners fought against their gender-determined roles. Instead of being homemakers they developed self-identity through their connections to their fellow workers, tradeswomen and customers. Work provided an avenue for tradeswomen to feel needed and to satisfy their natural desire to help one another. Through their work-identity, they located themselves

    Spectroscopic observations of comet Austin (1989c)

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    Longslit CCD spectra (lambda = 5100-6400 A, delta(lambda) approximately 3 A) were obtained with the Michigan-Dartmouth-MIT 1.3 meter telescope in May 1990 (r = 0.74 AU, delta = 0.50 AU). The spectra were reduced with the Interactive data Reduction and Analysis Facility (IRAF). Spectral extractions offset sunward and tailward from the nucleus were analyzed. Species identified in the spectra include the following: C2, NH2(10-0), NH2(9-0), H2O(+), and CO(+). Spatial extractions of rotational line intensities in the NH2(10-0) band extend approximately 10(exp 4.5) km from the nucleus. A fit of the vectorial model to the NH2(10-0) spatial profile is consistent with an NH3 parent molecule. The NH2 production rate and an ammonia to water abundance ratio, NH3/H2O approximately 3 percent, were derived. The ammonia abundance obtained for comet Austin is consistent with that found for several other comets and is indicative of comet formation under very homogeneous conditions

    Faculty Duet Recital

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    A NICE game of Minecraft: philosophical flaws underpinning UK depression guideline nosology

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    Categorising mental disorders for purposes of diagnosis, research and practice has historically been justified on philosophical terms as a pragmatic activity; categories which have been subject to wide-ranging philosophical critique have been defended on the grounds that they serve as heuristic devices providing loose representations of shared experiences, not labels for real structures. In acknowledgement of this, there has been increasing recognition that subclassifying multiple discrete forms of persistent depression moves too far away from the notion of a heuristic and that attempts to create more precise categories become less clinically useful. Hence the most recent Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (V.5) and International Classification of Diseases (V.11) both group persistent forms of depression together. However, the UK National Institute for Health and Care Excellence has delineated certain subclassifications of persistent depression in its new guideline, which grossly distorts the phenomenology of depression. This approach commits a fundamental philosophical error in conflating absence of knowledge with knowledge of absence. In this sense, the new guideline appears to be engaging in an activity akin to the digital game Minecraft, in which the craft of building structures from units of construction is largely divorced from the laws of physics. The risk of ignoring these philosophical errors and making false claims about scientific plausibility is that the guideline recommendations inevitably represent a highly distorted phenomenology of depression and will be of very little value to patients or practitioners looking for guidance on best possible treatment options
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